How to plant honeysuckle

Honeysuckle has lax requirements on soil and strong stress resistance. In order to facilitate the management, the land is leveled and the land which is beneficial to irrigation and drainage is better. It can also be planted by sunny barren slopes, sandy lands, terraces and rivers. Ploughing and soil preparation after applying fully mature organic fertilizer 3000kg to 5000kg per mu.

(1) Propagation and breeding:

The commonly used method in production is cuttage breeding, and strip propagation and root division propagation can also be selected.

1. Cutting seedling raising method. Plots with good irrigation conditions can be carried out all the year round, but they are generally cut in winter, spring and rainy season. The seedlings raised by cutting in winter and spring can be transplanted in about half a year in the rainy season, and the seedlings raised by cutting in the rainy season can be planted in winter and spring. Select 1-2-year-old strong, full branches, cut into about 30 cm cuttings, can also be combined with summer and winter shears, cut into 25 cm 30 cm ear segments after harvest. On the flat seedbed, trench according to the line spacing of 30 cm, plant spacing of 5 cm to 10 cm, directly buried in the ditch. Or just loosen the soil without digging the trench, insert the cutter 1G / 2pm / 1A3 into the hole and press it tightly. It is appropriate to cover the soil after watering, and the cuttings should be exposed 5-8 cm after burying the soil. Timely watering after insertion, loosening the soil and weeding. Summer cuttage, after 7-8 days, buds began to sprout, more than ten days began to take root. Cuttings in winter and spring usually sprout after the root. Timely prevention and control of diseases and insect pests occur in seedlings. Transplanting takes place before germination in early spring or dormant period in autumn and winter.

2. Striping propagation. It is divided into two seasons: spring and autumn, spring should be after the germination of new buds, and autumn should be from the end of August to mid-October. Generally choose 2-year-old sturdy branches as strips, which are 50cm long and 80cm long. They are pressed tightly after covering the soil, and the strips are exposed to the soil surface of 2CP5. In case of severe drought, they should be watered in time. It began to take root in half a month, and transplanting was carried out in spring or autumn of the following year. 450 500 plants per mu were planted, one plant per hole was used, and the seedlings were fixed for transplanting.

3. Root-splitting propagation. In cloudy and rainy autumn, the mother plant of honeysuckle is dug up and planted separately. This method affects the yield of flowers in the coming year, and the provenance is limited, so it is generally suitable for the breeding of large ornamental honeysuckle.

II. Field management:

1. Ploughing and weeding. Ploughing and weeding 3 or 4 times a year: the first time when new leaves are produced, the second and third times in July and August. Do it one last time before the frost in late autumn and early winter. Combine with ploughing to cultivate the soil so as not to expose the flower roots to the ground. Weeding should start from the periphery of the flowers, far and then near, and be careful not to damage the root system.

2. watering at the right time. Generally speaking, the warm root water should be watered once before freezing, and after thawing in the next spring, the root moistening water should be irrigated twice to awaken the root, and before the flower bud harvest, the water for promoting bud and protecting flower should be irrigated once combined with fertilization, and each topdressing should be combined with irrigation. When the soil is dry, it should be watered in time to promote multiple flowering.

3. Topdressing. During the first 1-2 years after planting, honeysuckle plants were developed and stereotyped, with more fertilizers such as human and animal manure, plant ash, urea, potassium sulfate and so on. After planting for 2 or 3 years, before winter or early spring every year, more fertilizers such as animal manure, barnyard manure, cake fertilizer and calcium superphosphate should be applied. After "the Beginning of Summer" flower harvest, appropriate amount of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer should be applied to provide sufficient nutrients for the following flowers.

4. Plastic surgery and pruning. The main task in the first two years after planting is to enable the plant of honeysuckle to grow into an umbrella-shaped plant. From then on, the old branches, weak branches and long branches will be trimmed every year in autumn and winter. Make the inside and outside of the honeysuckle plant clear, ventilated and transparent, in order to increase the yield. The old withered branches and invalid branches of the inner hall should be removed from the larger plants, the vigorous plants should be cut lightly, and the aged plants with weak growth should be cut heavily to promote the formation of more flowers.

III. Pest control

1. Brown spot. Most of the disease occurred in the later stage of small growth, the peak period was from August to September, and the disease was serious under rainy and humid conditions. Brown dots were formed on the leaves at the beginning of the disease, and then enlarged into brown round or irregular spots. Prevention and treatment methods: cut off the diseased leaves, and then spray them with Bordeaux solution of 1.5 and 200 Bordeaux, once every 7 days, 2 times continuously for 3 times; or use 65% Dysen zinc 500 times diluent or topiramate 1000 times diluted solution, spray once every 7 days, continuous 2 times 3 times, you can get a better control effect.

2. Powdery mildew. Under warm, dry or shady conditions, the disease is serious, the nitrogen application is too much, the plant is dense, and the disease is also serious. At the initial stage of the disease, white dots appeared on the leaves, and then gradually expanded into white powder spots, which continued to spread all over the leaves, and finally caused falling flowers, fallen leaves and branches to dry up. Control methods: clear the garden to deal with diseased and residual plants; spray with 1000 times of 50% topiramate or BO-10 biological spray during the occurrence period.

3. Anthrax. The disease spot of the leaf is nearly round, brown can rupture by itself, and it is covered with orange-red spot-like sticky material when it is wet. Prevention and treatment methods: ① removed the residual and diseased leaves and concentrated burned them; before transplanting, ② was soaked in Bordeaux solution for 5 minutes and 10 minutes; during the onset of ③, 65% zinc 500-fold solution or 50% acetaminophen 800-fold solution was sprayed.

4. Rust. After the injury, tea-brown or dark brown spots appeared on the back of the leaves; some near-round disease spots appeared on the surface of the leaves, and there was a small blister in the center, which could lead to leaf death in severe cases. Control methods: after ① harvesting, the withered plants and diseased leaves were centrally burned; at the initial stage of the onset of ②, 50% dinitrate powder was sprayed with 200 times liquid or 25% trimethoprim solution was sprayed 1000 times, once every 7 to 10 days, 2 times continuously.