Flower cutting Daquan, flower cutting pot is very simple

Cutting is a very important means of propagation in the process of planting flowers. I would like to share it with you today.

Advantages: maintain the characteristics of each plant; flowering earlier than seed reproduction; breeding method is simple, convenient to obtain materials, high survival rate; conditions can be carried out in the four seasons; species that can not bear fruit can be propagated by this method.

Disadvantages: the root system of the cutting plant is shallow and the growth life is short. Stem cuttings include hardwood cuttings and soft cuttings.

Hardwood cuttage

Pomegranate, hibiscus, hibiscus, crape myrtle, spring, poinsettia and other deciduous flowers and trees often use this method. Before the sap flows in early spring. Select 1-2-year-old sturdy branches, select the middle section, cut into 10mur15cm-long branches as cuttings, need to bring 2Mel 3 buds, cuttings top buds should be full and intact. The upper end is 0.5 cm above the bud, cut into a flat mouth, and the lower end is 0.5-1 cm under the bud, cut into an oblique mouth, and the bud is on one side of the oblique mouth, and is inserted into the cutting medium with a depth of 1 inch 2 for cuttings. Hardwood cuttings most tree species are buried in the ground before winter and replanted in spring. Some tropical and subtropical flowers and trees can also be cut in advance in the greenhouse.

Soft wood cuttage

Greenhouse flowers such as inverted golden bell, geranium, begonia, etc.; open-field grass flowers such as red, Dahlia, beautiful cherry, etc.; evergreen broad-leaved flowers and trees such as jasmine, rhododendron, Michelia, camellia, sweet-scented osmanthus, etc. From late May to September. Select the semi-lignified branches with leaves in the same year as cuttings, such as the semi-lignified branches at the lower end of the proximal tip after anthesis. The cuttings are about 6 Mel 10 cm long and should have 2 mi 3 buds. The cutting method is like a hard branch, and the lower leaves are cut off, while the upper leaves can be cut off as appropriate to reduce evaporation. The survival rate of cutting and inserting. When cutting poinsettia, geranium, oleander and other cuttings, a large amount of juice is often discharged from the incision, which must be inserted after the incision is dry, otherwise the incision is easy to rot and difficult to survive.

Leaf cuttings

Four seasons begonia, chrysanthemum, stone lotus, tiger tail orchid and so on can grow adventitious roots and buds at the veins or petioles, and can be propagated into new plants by leaf cutting. When cutting a leaf with a petiole, keep the petiole about 3 cm, cut off part of the thin and tender leaf margin, and insert the petiole into the matrix; if there is no petiole, you can cut it with a knife at the intersection of the leaf vein and lay the leaf flat on the matrix to make it in close contact with the matrix, or fix the leaf vein in the matrix with a bamboo stick, which can root at the vein and grow into a new plant. Tiger tail orchid for fleshy sword-shaped leaves, can be transversely cut into about 5 cm leaf segments for cuttings, inserted directly in the sand, do not be upside down, new roots can occur at the base to form new plants.

Leaf bud insertion

Rubber tree, eight immortal flowers, jasmine, Fusang and so on in the leaf insertion, although its petiole and leaf axil can take root, but can not sprout, therefore, can not grow into a new plant. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the leaf cuttage with an axillary bud at the base in order to develop into a new plant.

Root insertion

Stick stem begonia, peony, Lingxiao, kiwifruit, hypericum, wax plum, Rehmannia glutinosa, lotus peony and so on, flowers that can grow adventitious buds on their roots can be propagated with roots as cuttings. When the flowers and trees change pots, cut 5mur10cm root segments, insert them directly or obliquely into the soil, not upside down, and the upper end is flat with the soil surface, and then cultivate the soil properly after the new buds grow.

Water insertion method

Select twigs or semi-lignified branches, cut off the required length from about 1 cm below the stem node, remove the leaves inserted into the water, the depth is generally 1 beat 4 of the cuttings, put them in the place of scattered light according to flower habits, and generally change water every 3-5 days. When the root grows to about 1-2 cm long, it can be put on the pot.

No matter what kind of cutting method is adopted, we must pour enough water after cutting, and then cover the cutting pot with glass or plastic film, in order to maintain a certain temperature and humidity, put it in the semi-shade, strengthen management, and then transplant and culture after rooting. In order to make the cuttage survival rate high, in addition to selecting good cuttings, the substrate is also very important, the substrate should not only have good drainage, but also have a certain degree of water retention. Vermiculite, perlite, slag and rice bran ash are better cutting substrates. The substrate should be kept above 20 ℃, that is, the atmospheric temperature should be above 25 ℃, so that the cuttings can be easily healed and rooted.

Maintenance and management after cutting

Temperature management

Temperature plays an important role in rooting of cuttings. The suitable rooting temperature for soft wood cuttings of most flowers is 20 ℃-25 ℃, and that for semi-hardwood and hardwood cuttings is 22 ℃-28 ℃. The optimum temperature for leaf and bud cuttings varies with different species, and the optimum temperature is in the range of 20-28. If the temperature of the cutting bed is lower than 20 ℃, it is not easy for the cuttings to take root, but if it is higher than 28, it is easy to wilt the cuttings leaves and affect the rooting. In spring, the external temperature is too low, if the cutter has a device to increase the bottom temperature, it is conducive to the survival of hardwood cuttings in early spring. Summer cuttings should pay attention to prevent the harm of high temperature, open the mulch and spray on the leaves to cool down.

Water management

After cutting, the substrate is required to provide enough water to maintain the normal freshness of branches and leaves. Generally speaking, the soil water content of 50-60 is suitable, and too much water often leads to cuttings rot. At the same time, it is required to maintain a high air humidity, usually with a relative humidity of 80% and 90%. For this reason, the foliar spray and the method of adjusting the cover should be used in time to control. In order to avoid sunlight exposure, cause a large amount of water transpiration and lead to leaf shrinkage, we should pay attention to shading.

Light management

The terminal buds and leaves of cuttings can carry out photosynthesis only in sunlight and produce auxins to promote rooting. However, because it has been isolated from the mother plant, it should be shaded properly, and the general degree of shading should be 70%. The cuttings can be moved out of the planting pot about half a month after rooting, first put in a hidden place to slow down the seedlings, wait for the root system to develop well and the plants are strong, and then gradually move to the place where there is plenty of sunshine and manage it according to the routine.

So much for sharing the details with you. I hope this article will be helpful to you. Good luck.