How to deal with flower cuttings that are not easy to root?

The survival rate of flower cuttings that are not easy to take root is not high, so I will share it with you.

In order to promote the rooting of cuttings and improve the survival rate, some flowers and trees that are not easy to take root should be treated properly:

(1) 1-2 weeks before cuttings were taken, nutrients were concentrated to the wound with circular peeling or lead wire binding.

(2) some succulent flowers, such as cactus and crassulaceae, should be properly dried for 3-5 days before cutting, and some may even last as long as a week, and then be planted in moderately dry and wet sand.

(3) the cuttings were treated with plant growth regulators to promote rooting. Most of the regulators used are naphthylacetic acid, indoleacetic acid, indole butyric acid and so on, which are actually plant growth. When in use, the concentration should be determined according to the type of flowers and trees, and the commonly used dose is 0.5 ‰-2 ‰ naphthylacetic acid, or dipped in the base of the cuttings with indole butyric acid solution before cutting. After flower cutting, the cutting bed should always keep a high temperature (usually take root quickly at about 25 ℃) and uniform soil moisture. To shade the sun at the initial stage of cutting, grass curtains or shading nets can be used to shade the sun, and more light should be seen in the later stage. When the cuttings take root as long as 3-4 cm, they can be transplanted.

What does the cutter use as the medium.

The cutting bed can generally be made in wooden cases or large flowerpots. The lower part of the bed (box or basin) is covered with coarse sand or carbon shavings with a drainage layer of about 12 cm thick, followed by a layer of fine river sand 8-10 cm thick as a medium (cutting layer). Vermiculite can also be used as a medium for cutting.