Maintenance and management of juniper bonsai

Juniper, evergreen tree, up to 20 meters high, breast diameter 3.5 meters, crown steeple or conical, old tree widely ovate. Leaf type 2, the sprouting branches of young trees or overgrown at the base are mostly triangular-shaped, 3-leaf whorls, with joints at the base and extending downward; the old trees are mostly scalelike leaves, opposite and closely attached to the branchlets; there are also plants with subulate leaves all the time since childhood. Flowers dioecious, male cones formed in autumn, open the following year, flowers yellow; female flowers small, cones mature the next year, berrylike indehiscent, outer coat albino.

Juniper cypress is widely distributed, ranging from Inner Mongolia and Liaoning in the north, to the north of Guangxi in the south, to Sichuan and Xizang in the west, and to East China in the east. Juniper likes light, slightly tolerant to shade, resistant to drought and barren, and can grow in acidic, neutral and calcareous soil. it is a common greening tree species in limestone mountains.

Watering: juniper is resistant to drought, watering should not be wet, do not dry, do not water, so that you can see dry and wet. Plum rain season should pay attention to the basin can not accumulate water, summer high temperature, to water sooner or later, to keep the basin soil moist, often spray foliar water, can make the leaf color green.

Fertilization: juniper pile scene should not be fertilized, so as not to affect the beauty of the tree. The thin and rotten cake fertilizer or organic fertilizer was applied for 2 times from March to May in spring and twice in autumn to keep the branches and leaves fresh and green and grow healthily.

Pruning: shaped juniper bonsai, mainly to pick the heart, can shoot the long branches, cut off the top, promote the growth of side branches. In the period of vigorous growth, special attention should be paid to picking the heart and shooting in time to keep the crown dense and beautiful.

Turning the basin: the growth of juniper pile scene is slow, and the pot can be turned every 3-4 years, especially from March to April in spring. When turning the basin, you can properly cut off part of the old root, replace it with 1 gray and 2-night soil, and cultivate fertile and loose culture soil to promote the growth and development of the new root. The high and deep pot should pay attention to the coarse sand and broken tiles of the basin bottom cushion to facilitate drainage.

Prevention and control of juniper rust:

1. Symptoms: juniper rust harms juniper needles and twigs, initially yellow spots, and then bulges to break the epidermis to reveal reddish-brown cones or chicken crowns, single or several connected, that is, winter spore horn. A gelatinized orange-yellow flower-like gel after spring rain, and teliospores are on the surface of the gel.

two。 Occurrence characteristics: the hyphae overwintered on juniper, and the following spring produced teliospores, which germinated in the rain and produced basidiospores, which were transmitted by the wind. In warm and rainy years in spring, the disease is serious.

3. Prevention and control method: cut off the seriously diseased branches from the juniper in winter. Spraying 0.3% pentachlorophenol sodium and 1 Baomedo stone sulfur mixture on juniper from October to November can prevent the infection of rust spores. Spray 1-2 Baume-sulfur mixture or 160-200 Baume Bordeaux solution 2-3 times and once every 7-10 days before winter spore germination in mid-late March.