Yongxing black bean shade oil wins glory for Taiwan! Brewed with native black beans, winning the highest evaluation of "Global Pure Flavor Evaluation"

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"as long as the essence is good enough, no more embellishments are needed." Yongxing White exposure Shade Oil, which has been making soy sauce with this belief for more than a century, has produced excellent works with organically cultivated Taiwan native black beans. In the 2019 global pure flavor evaluation, cymbidium white exposure shade oil and cymbidium rich color white exposure shade oil have won the highest rating of three stars, and every drop of soy sauce brewed here contains care for everyone and the environment.

When you open the soy sauce jar, you can see that the black beans are coming out of the sauce, and the color of the sauce is like amber (photography _ Lin Yijun). She inherited the soy sauce factory for a century, and went home to make soy sauce for her mother's resignation.

When I came to the back wall of Tainan, across a large green rice field, I turned left and right to the Yong Hsing White exposure Oil Factory. Six soy sauce jars were placed at the simple and clean door, each with the words "Yong Hsing White exposed Shade Oil." the correct and forceful pen was written by Lai Zhenwen, the fifth generation heir, but he did not want to be interviewed by his wife Lin Xuejiao and his children.

Lai Zhenwen, in Lin Xuejiao's words, grew up with his mother to help, but he didn't want to take the baton until one day he watched his mother's hard work, and the departure of his master in the factory made him quit his former job as a civil servant and went home to pick up the baton in 1977. "I was still teaching at school at that time, and I told my husband that I would not be able to go home."

The factory that makes soy sauce in Yung Hsing is small in scale. The current factory in Shanghai eggplant is the second factory that moved here in 1981. Lin Hsueh-Chiao described the days of operation as "never-ending days" (Taiwanese day and night). "sometimes I meet guests coming to buy soy sauce at 5: 00 in the morning, and I also answer the phone at 11:00 in the evening." She said that Yongxing's operation depends entirely on the support of villagers and old customers, so every guest is treated as a relative.

Inheriting five generations of Yongxing White exposure Shade Oil, hostess Lin Xuejiao (middle) and her children (Photography _ Lin Yijun) have organic black beans on the ground, no artificial additives, and have inherited dry and wet fermentation shade oil for a hundred years.

Black bean soy sauce is commonly known as "shade oil". Yongxing has passed on for a hundred years, the whole factory uses black beans and follows the ancient method to make black bean shade oil, wash it and cook it under high pressure, wash it and keep it warm, and then add salt or salt to ferment in the tank. After the tank, the water tank will be placed outside for 4 to 6 months of fermentation, because the static outdoor will be "daytime exposure", so the brand will be named "white shade oil".

Lin Xuejiao says that the method of adding salt water is wet fermentation, while the method of sealing the tank with salt is dry fermentation. wet fermentation produces shade oil with reddish color and mild aroma, while dry fermentation produces shade oil with dark color and thick aroma. "the products are usually wet fermentation sauces or dry-wet fermentation sauces, which are mixed in different proportions according to demand."

Black bean curd just buried with salt (photo _ Lin Yijun) (1)

If you take a closer look at the ingredients on each bottle of soy sauce, there are only four ingredients: black beans, sea salt, water, and sugar. "when guests ask if it is non-genetically modified soy sauce, we will immediately say yes, because there are only genetically modified soybeans, not genetically modified black beans." Lin Xuejiao smiled. She explained that if you want to use soybeans, the flavor and process will be different, and the family has always focused on making black soy sauce.

It does not contain any chemical spices, caramel pigments, preservatives and seasonings, but it also makes the soy sauce lighter in color and shorter in storage time. Once opened, store the soy sauce in the refrigerator, pick up the glass bottle and face the light. The sauce in the bottle is clear and amber in color, and the taste is clean, sweet and light bean fragrance. Lin Xuejiao said that the guests' simple taste is suitable for stewing all kinds of dishes and can reflect the unique flavor of the ingredients.

The soy sauce jar (photo _ Lin Yijun) located on the first floor supported farmers at all costs and chose the native species of black beans made in China.

Among the soy sauce items in Yongxing, cymbidium, orchid heart, imperial brew and original sugar-free shade oil are brewed from Taiwan black beans. Taiwan native black beans (Pingtung Manchuria species) are selected and planted organically without pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Lin Hsueh-Chiao says that this is a native species of black beans. Before foreign black beans entered Taiwan, Yongxing used Taiwan's native black beans, commonly known as "Pingtung Pearl," while the black beans used by Imperial Brewing were Tainan No. 5 from other places in the country.

Weng Yuqun, chairman of the Chiayi County Yizhu Grain production Cooperative, which cooperates with Yongxing and provides raw materials for black beans, explains that Taiwan's native black beans (Pingtung Pearl Tsai) used to be planted when the farmland was fallow, but since joining the WTO, cheap imported soybeans have come to Taiwan, domestic soybeans are difficult to compete at low prices, and raw materials for processed beans such as soy sauce, soybean milk, and tofu are gradually replaced by imported soybeans.

"after the resumption of ploughing, many farmers could not sell the beans they planted." Lin Hsueh-Chiao says that black beans were imported before Taiwan joined the WTO. After foreign black beans entered Taiwan, almost all domestic soy sauce factories switched to imported beans. Later, Taiwan began to restore black beans. Yongxing only came into contact with native black beans after being introduced by soybean farmers in 1998. He gradually began to use Taiwan's native black beans to brew shade oil, and later became stable to order native black beans.

Locked-up black beans and well-documented process control

"to make good soy sauce, you must have good raw materials." Lin Xuejiao said that farmers often seek assistance from processors when selling agricultural products, and for processors, one of the keys to making high-quality processed products lies in the quality of raw materials, in addition to selecting high-quality black beans. Yongxing is also very cautious about the preservation of raw materials.

Walking into the Yongxing factory, the whole factory environment is very clean. The high-pressure cooking pots are as clean as newly bought ones, while there are tight iron cages on one side, which firmly cover all the raw materials. "Black beans must be 'closed' like this. So there won't be rats or cockroaches." Lin Xuejiao pointed to a packet of raw materials, with a cushion at the bottom to avoid contact with the ground.