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Pruning technique of potted crabapple with sticking stem

Published: 2024-11-09 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/09, The tree with stem begonia has strong potential, strong sprouting power, easy to be disorderly in shape and resistant to pruning. The flower bud belongs to the summer and autumn differentiation type, and the flower bud centralized differentiation period is from July to August. A fully growing biennial branch whose axillary buds in the middle and lower part of the spring shoot often differentiate into flower buds, blossom in the following spring and form flowering short branches

The tree with stem begonia has strong potential, strong sprouting power, easy to be disorderly in shape and resistant to pruning. The flower bud belongs to the summer and autumn differentiation type, and the flower bud centralized differentiation period is from July to August. The axillary buds of the middle and lower part of the spring shoot often differentiate into flower buds, blossom in the next spring and form short flowering branches. In the well-developed oblique biennial lateral branches, almost all axillary buds except the apex can differentiate into flower buds. The tips of short branches and full-growing axillary buds on perennial branches can also differentiate into flower buds. Therefore, pruning must promote the occurrence of most flowering short branches and retain a certain number of mother branches.

Pruning is the best when the tree has not germinated in early spring, and the pruning methods are mainly short cutting and branch thinning. The root of Tripterygium has strong ability to sprout, and a lot of tillers germinate from the base of the plant every year. 2-3 sturdy sprouting and tillering branches can be selected and truncated to be used as regeneration branches, while 2-3 old branches can be removed every year. In this way, there are new branches and senescent branches left every year, which can keep a certain number of branches in the clump. Such repeated pruning can keep the shrub exuberant vitality for a long time, blossom continuously, and greatly improve the ornamental value.

The pruning of Tripterygium is generally pruned in the dormant season, the heart is picked and the branches are cut short in the growing season. When pruning in the dormant season, cut off the overlong branches and cut off the withered branches, disease and insect branches, over-dense branches, concurrent branches and weak branches one by one, in order to improve the ventilation and light in the shrub and avoid the density of branches affecting the growth. After flowering, the overgrown branches are cut short to promote new branches to prevent the lower part of the branches from being bald. In the growing season, cut off the shoots of the new shoots, or when the new shoots grow to 60 cm to 80 cm, especially for erect branches, in order to restrain the growth of the apex, control the excessive growth of annual branches, promote the formation of flower buds in the middle and lower parts, and prevent the phenomenon of bare legs.

[pruning after flowering]

In order to maintain the tree shape and make the overall effect beautiful, it needs to be pruned properly after flowering. Remove the crowded branches on the plant and the protruding branches on the crown outline two weeks after flowering. Properly truncate the long branches, leave 3 to 4 buds from the base, and cut off the rest, which is beneficial to increase the number of short branches that form flower buds. The fruit after anthesis should be removed as soon as possible to avoid nutrient loss and affect the formation of flower buds in the following year.

[notes]

The main results are as follows: 1. In order to control the plant height, the truncation of flower branches should be light and should be carried out year by year to avoid the influence of heavy truncation on the number of flowers in spring.

2. The amount of branches left behind should be determined according to the size of the space. When planting a single plant, you can leave more branches; if you plant in rows or in pieces, if the space is small, you can leave fewer branches.

3. when pruning after anthesis, the branches with leaves are subtracted, the photosynthetic area is reduced, and the growth of the plant is inhibited, so the pruning should be light.

It should also be noted when pruning:

1. Remove overdense branches, disease and insect branches and cross branches when pruning.

2. Attention should be paid to the renewal of flowering branches. In practical work, there are some wrong tendencies. One is to think that Begonia is an old branch and all new branches should be removed. The branches from 3 to 5 years old blossomed the most. Therefore, we cannot blindly retain the old branches and remove the new ones.

The correct way is:

The flowering branches are renewed year by year to keep the plants in full bloom all the time. Generally, 2 to 3 flowering branches are renewed in a year, and the extra new branches can be removed.

Another way is to ignore the new branches and allow them to grow naturally, which can easily disturb the tree shape, make the branches thin and dense, not only can not be ventilated and transparent, but also often cause a proliferation of diseases and insect pests and have a great impact on the quality of flowering. For annual branches, every year from defoliation to sprouting, except for thinning the thin and weak branches, all the new branches should be cut off from 2 big 3 to 1 big 2.

Time: 2019-06-11 Click:

 
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