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Shaping and pruning technique of bonsai of Robinia pseudoacacia

Published: 2024-11-05 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/05, The branching rate of Robinia pseudoacacia is low, there are no lateral branches in the middle and lower part of the trunk, and the trunk thickens slowly, and most of these trees are hard but slow in the process of Lignification, which makes the trunk of the seedlings thin and soft. Because the upper part of the seedling has high water content and dense leaves, it is easy to sprout and branch in the second growth, resulting in top-heavy and light, and the seedlings naturally bend after wind, rain and sun.

The branching rate of Robinia pseudoacacia is low, there are no lateral branches in the middle and lower part of the trunk, and the trunk thickens slowly, and most of these trees have hard wood but slow Lignification process, which makes the trunk of the seedlings thin and soft. Because of the high water content in the upper part of the seedlings and dense leaves, it is easy to sprout branches in the second growth, resulting in top-heavy and light, after wind, rain and sun, the seedlings naturally bend. In addition, a large number of sprouting branches are caused by insect pests to bite young tips, resulting in the formation of headless seedlings. The following is to introduce the shaping and pruning techniques of Robinia pseudoacacia:

Tree shape: happy shape.

Annual pruning times: one in dormant period and two in growing season.

The main points of shaping and pruning in the first year: during the dormant period, 3 or 5 main branches with uniform distribution at the top of the trunk and strong growth were selected, 30 ~ 50cm were left for short cutting, the cutting buds were left on the side and at the same horizontal height, and all the other branches were cut off. Keep the tree shape of the main branch after sprouting in spring, remove the sprouting and erase all the lateral buds on the trunk and the main branch less than 3 in time.

The main points of shaping and pruning in the second year: in the dormant period of the next year, among the shoots sprouting near the top on both sides of the main branch, 2 or 3 branches were selected as elongated branches, and cut short at 40~60cm, the cutting buds were still left on the side of the branches, and the rest of the branches were all removed.

The main points of shaping and pruning in the third year: after germination in the third year, each branch continued to retain 2 or 3 uniformly distributed lateral branches and smeared buds. It can be formed in 5 years.

[pruning technology]

1. Cut dry at the right time

Every year, after the growth stops in spring, before the second growing season comes (usually in early July), the curved part of the top is cut off, and after sending out new branches, a vertical branch is selected as the new trunk.

2. Reasonable pruning

The so-called reasonable pruning is to retain as many lateral branches as possible without affecting the growth of the trunk, which is beneficial to the thickening growth of the trunk, speed up the Lignification process and avoid trunk bending. The specific operations are as follows:

(1) horizontal branches and branches close to horizontal branches are generally not cut, allowing them to prune naturally.

(2) the competitive branches affecting the growth of the main head should be cut off in time.

(3) the growth of other lateral branches which do not form competitive growth should be controlled and should be cut off in time when its thickness reaches 1 / 2 of the thickness of the trunk. Prevent the trunk sharpening from being too large and improve the trunk height at the same time. If the wound is cut too late, it is not good for healing.

3. Cut dry again

For 2-year-old and 3-year-old seedlings, when they begin to grow in spring, if the seedlings have no obvious main head or have a main head but are too oblique, they should be cut off again, and the cut should be selected at the beginning of the deflection.

Time: 2019-06-11 Click:

 
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