Cutting Propagation method of Taxus mairei

The process of breeding seedlings of Taxus chinensis can be realized not only by sowing, but also by cutting technology. Compared with sowing and propagation, cutting often takes less time to breed seedlings, so this method is also very suitable for family pot users. The cutting propagation method not only has the advantage of fast emergence, but also blossoms and bear fruit earlier and has more diversity of plant shape, which is more selective for bonsai modeling. Today, the editor will share with you the cutting propagation methods of Taxus.

The cutting propagation of Taxus can be carried out in seedbeds, seedling boxes, or even flowerpots. As far as pot users are concerned, cuttings can be carried out directly in flowerpots. However, the size of the selected flowerpot should be appropriate, the general diameter is about 16 centimeters, and the preparation of culture soil should not be careless. It can be mixed with river sand and humus soil. After the preparatory work continues, we can carry on the cutting seedling of Taxus chinensis.

1. Cutting time

The cutting propagation of Taxus is mostly carried out in spring, but it is often the best in late May, especially in the north, because the temperature warms up slowly, and the cutting propagation of Taxus needs to be carried out in a warm environment. Therefore, generally carried out in late spring and early summer, the survival effect is often better. However, for the vast areas of southern China, we can also advance according to the local air temperature. After all, the temperature in late May in the south is often very high, and cuttings are easy to rot at the base in a hot, humid and airtight environment.

First, select branches

Taxus cuttings generally choose 1-3-year-old branches that have formed Lignification as cuttings, but usually 1-2-year-old cuttings are easier to root. You can cut not only the main branch, but also the side branch, or even the middle branch topped off. But it should be noted that if the branches are perennial and the wood turns to reddish brown, it is not suitable for cutting, because even if the cuttings can survive, the rooting effect is also very poor, and the phenomenon of stunting will occur in the later stage.

Second, making cuttings

After selecting the suitable branches for cutting, we can cut them down and cut them off to make cuttings. The original cuttings are preferably annual branches with a length of about 8-10 cm; if biennial branches are used as cuttings, the general length should be kept at 10-15 cm, because if the cuttings are too short, the emergence time will often be affected. Next, cut off the leaves on the cuttings that are about 3 centimeters away from one end of the cuttings, and soak the base in the solution of slow agricultural spring dew.

Third, cutting methods

In spring and summer, it is appropriate to insert the prepared cuttings directly into the substrate, and it is more appropriate to control the insertion depth at 1 prime 3 of the cuttings. If you use a nursery box or a small flowerpot, you can usually insert a branch into a box or flowerpot. Be careful when operating, if the culture medium is relatively dry, do not force the cuttings into the substrate, otherwise the cuttings may be injured, thus affecting the survival. However, moist soil cuttings are generally used, but we still need to pay attention to the details. If you are worried, you can also use a tool to poke a hole in the substrate, and then insert the cuttings into it and compact the soil around the cuttings.

Fourth, watering the root water

After all the cuttings have been inserted into the culture medium, it is usually necessary to water the cuttings once in time as root water, and then put them in a cool place for maintenance. But after watering, we should pay attention to observe whether the bottom of the seedling box or flowerpot is too wet or there is stagnant water. Because cuttings can not be soaked in high humidity or water, otherwise it is easy to cause rot at the base and eventually lead to cuttage failure. After cutting and watering with fixed root water, generally do not rush to water again, if you find that the leaves on the cuttings become dry and wilting, you can spray water to moisturize and pay attention to shade.

V. maintenance and management

Generally after 3-5 days, we need proper water supply to maintain the humidity in the substrate, so as to promote the germination of cuttings, but also to ensure shade and ventilation. When supplying water, we should not take the way of flushing or watering, otherwise it is easy to wash the cuttings out of the substrate, at least it will affect the contact tightness between the base and the soil. Generally, spray water twice a day after cutting until once after 2 weeks, and it is recommended to soak in small water every 3-4 days.

Of course, if plastic film is suitable for moisturizing during cutting, when the temperature rises for several days in a row, the film should be opened regularly to keep moisture and cool down, and air exchange can also be achieved at the same time. When most of the cuttings take root, ventilation should be strengthened in time to refine the seedlings, which can be carried out for about 2 hours a day. Until late August, we can remove the film and continue to grow.

Time: 2019-06-06 Click: