Cultivation techniques of bonsai in Zhu Dinghong

Zhu Dinghong, also known as Guting flower, its color can cover almost all the other colors in the chromatography except pure blue, pure black and pure green. The flower diameter can reach more than 20 cm, and the flower pattern has the changes of double, single, butterfly and so on. Some varieties have a velvety texture on their petals. In the eyes of Zhu breeders, Zhu Dinghong has as many varieties as tulips, the variety of flowers is more complete than that of hyacinths, the peculiarity of flower patterns is beyond the reach of even lilies, and the comprehensive character is the first among bulbous flowers.

Zhu Dinghong is suitable for potted and ground cultivation, but it is not suitable for long-term hydroponic culture. After the end of flowering, there will be a long growth period for corm recovery, so its ability of reflowering is strong and its ability of degeneration is weak. If properly maintained, the bulbs will grow bigger and bigger, and the number and times of flowering will increase year by year. So, how to plant potted Zhu Dinghong?

1. Clean up the seed ball. Cut off the rotten and dry roots of the bulbs and retain the remaining healthy roots. If there are multiple layers of brown dry outer skin on the outside of the seed ball, part of it can be peeled off to minimize the hidden danger of festering.

2. Seed balls to replenish water. If the bulb loses more water due to a long storage period, it is best to replenish the bulb, that is, soak the middle and lower part of the bulb with water slightly higher than the ambient temperature for 1 or 2 hours.

3. Disinfection. It is the key link of planting, generally using common disinfectants such as carbendazim, chlorothalonil, methyl Topu and so on according to the instructions. After the end, disinfectant water is used for irrigation after planting to achieve the purpose of disinfecting soil.

4. Media selection. Under the limited planting space, the choice of media is very important. Zhu Dinghong is suitable for planting in a crispy, permeable and acidic medium. The recommended medium is peat: vermiculite: perlite 2:1:1 or peat: perlite 1:1. When it is inconvenient, ordinary sapropelic soil can be used instead of peat and river sand instead of perlite. It is best to mix 10% bone meal, calcium superphosphate and other base fertilizers in the medium.

5. Planting depth. When the bulbs are first planted, at least half of the bulbs are exposed, and the status of the bulbs is often checked, because the bulbs are very prone to fester during this period. After this period, the roots and leaves of the bulbs grow out, and then cover the soil to the 1max 2 or 2max 3 of the bulbs.

6. Watering. Water thoroughly at one time after planting, wait for the basin soil to be basically dry, and then water it. Do not fertilize the bulb except the base fertilizer before the bulb leaves.

7. Place the environment. After planting, it was first placed in a cool place of 10-15 ℃ for rooting, and then moved to a higher temperature of 20-25 ℃ after two weeks.

In short, some of the work done at this stage is mainly for two purposes: to prevent decay and to take root smoothly. If everything is all right, we will move on to the next step.

Time: 2019-05-25 Click: