How to prepare cultivation soil for Family Flower Culture

Indoor and greenhouse flowers are mostly planted in pots. Due to the limited volume of flowerpots and the long growing period of plants, on the one hand, the cultivated soil is required to have sufficient nutrients, on the other hand, it requires the cultivated soil to have a good structure, proper coordination of large and small pores, and certain functions of water and fertilizer conservation. And good ventilation. Therefore, it is necessary to artificially prepare mixed soil, which is called cultured soil. There are many kinds of flowers and their living habits are different. The cultivation soil should be arranged according to the habits of flowers and the nature of materials. The general formula of culture soil is as follows:

① general grass flower culture soil formula: rotten leaf soil 30% + garden soil 50% + river sand 20% or pond mud 3% + compost 1 part + rice chaff ash 1 part.

② woody flower culture soil formula: rotten leaf soil 40% + garden soil 50% + river sand 10%.

③ sowing culture soil formula: rotten leaf soil 50% + garden soil 30% + river sand 20% or garden soil 2% + rice chaff ash 1 part + river sand 1 part.

④ greenhouse flower culture soil formula: rotten leaf soil 40% + garden soil 40% + river sand 20%.

The formula of ⑤ wet flower culture soil was as follows: 2 parts of rotten leaf soil + 1 part of river sand + 1 part of sawdust or peat.

⑥ acidic flower culture soil formula: 2 parts of mountain mud or waste soil + 1 part of sawdust or peat.

⑦ cutting soil culture soil formula: garden soil 50% + bran ash 50%.

Flower and fruit plants, but also add a small amount of bone powder or calcium superphosphate in the soil to supplement the phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in the soil.

How to prepare culture soil in family culture? artificially prepared culture soil is the most ideal soil for greenhouse cultivation of flowers. The following are several commonly used preparation methods of greenhouse potted flower culture soil. Acidic or slightly acidic cultivated soil: most of the soils in the northern region show alkaline or slightly alkaline reaction, so they should not be directly used to cultivate greenhouse potted flowers that like acidic or slightly acidic soil. In order to raise this kind of potted flowers well, we must use rotten leaf soil made artificially. The method of stacking is to collect some fallen leaves and grass at ordinary times, and stack them with non-alkali mature soil in the vegetable garden. the size of the mound can be determined according to the amount of rotten leaf soil needed. The outside of the pile should be sealed with grass paste, and a concave hole is left at the top, and some human feces and liquid fat and water are often poured into the hole. After a summer of high-temperature fermentation, it has been fully mature. After mashing and sifting next spring, mix 20% of the fine yellow sand, mix well and then use it. The coniferous humus of Pinaceae is a strongly acidic soil, especially the needles of Taxodiaceae. Coniferous soil can also be made manually in the same way as rotten leaf soil. In addition, you can also dig ready-made coniferous soil from the nearby mountain coniferous forest, sift it, and then mix it with 10% garden soil, 20% fine yellow sand and a small amount of sifted rotten dung. Neutral or slightly alkaline culture soil: 30% vegetable garden mature soil or loess, 40% fine yellow sand, 20% rotten leaf soil and 10% fully mature dung, sifted and fully mixed, can be used. It can also be mashed and screened with the old pot soil and mixed with a small amount of rotten dung and water, but it is not as ideal as the newly prepared culture soil, and it is only suitable to cultivate succulent plants such as cactus. The culture soil for transplanting newly propagated seedlings: use 10% garden soil, 20% rotten leaf soil and 50% fine yellow sand, which can be used after sifting and mixing well. Knowledge reproduction of family flower culture

1. Sow seeds

It is suitable to collect the ripe fruit from October to December, remove the seeds, sow them or row them on the loose and fertile sandy soil seedling bed, cover the soil with a thickness of 2 to 3 cm, and cover with straw or plastic film to keep warm against cold, or hide the seeds in the crack of the seeds to show white before sowing. The seeds sown in late autumn and early winter can not emerge until the next spring, remove the covered grass in time after emergence, strengthen the management of water and fertilizer, and set up a shed to cover the shade after summer, which is expected to cultivate tall plants with better stem shape.

2. Cutting

Cuttage can be carried out from the end of April to October, but it is best to be cut in the Meiyu period from June to July, and the rooting effect is ideal. Cut 1-2-year-old strong branches as cuttings, ear length 12-15 cm, with 2-3 half leaves, the lower incision is best located at 0.2-0.3 cm below the node, cut it in peat soil, sandy soil, vermiculite or yellow soil, but the rooting effect of peat soil is the best, mask plastic film moisturizing, pay attention to shed shade in sunny weather, it can take root after 1 to 2 months, and the survival rate can reach more than 80%.

3. Ramet

Between March and April, when the plant begins to germinate, remove the clump-shaped plant from the flowerpot, or dig up the tufted plant from the soil, shake off part of the persistent soil, and cut it with a sharp knife where the root system is weak. so that each clump with at least 2 to 3 stems, and with part of the intact root system, separately planted or potted. In addition, it grows a lot of sprouting tillers on the roots near the ground, which can be truncated from the roots and then planted separately, which is also very simple and convenient.

4. Pressing strip

① low pressure, in the south, in April, the middle and lower parts of the 2-to 3-year-old strong branches sprouting at their bases were annularly peeled or scratched, and then forcibly buried in the excavated grooves on the ground and covered with thick soil, which could take root after about 40 to 50 days. From July to August, it will be cut off from the mother plant and planted separately or potted. This method is widely used in production.

② high pressure, potted plants in the north after coming out of the house at the end of April, at 0.5cm below the node of 2-year-old strong branches, the peeling width is about 3 times the thickness of the branches, and then the plastic film is used to wrap wet moss or peat in the annular peeling place, and there is a water outlet at the upper end of the soil mass to keep the soil mass moist, which can take root after 2 to 3 months. Enthusiasts can use this method to breed a small number of gifts to flower friends.

Key points of management

1. Temperature

African jasmine grows well in warm climate, and the suitable growth temperature is from 18 ℃ to 32 ℃. When the summer temperature is higher than 38 ℃, it will inhibit plant growth. Some areas of South China can survive the winter in the open field, while pot cultivation in the north of the Yangtze River requires that the greenhouse temperature is not lower than 3 ℃ to 5 ℃ in winter.

2. Lighting

African jasmine likes the sun, and the primary environment is mostly in a semi-shaded state. South China is planted as a garden greening tree, and it is best to choose a place with side shade; potted plants in the north of the Yangtze River can receive full light in spring and autumn, and shade is required in summer. Or put it in the shade of big trees, at least avoid direct sunlight for several hours before and after noon. It is particularly noteworthy that the temperature rose sharply and the light was very strong on a sunny day after a long rain from June to July. Shading must be done to prevent young shoots and leaves from being burned. Potted plants in public places are required to have sufficient scattered light, or placed near the window, should not be too dark, otherwise lead to leaf loss of green yellowing or shedding.

3. Moisture

No matter on the ground or in the pot, sufficient water is required, but the roots must not accumulate water, otherwise they are easy to rot. Watering in spring and autumn to keep the basin soil moist; beware of stagnant water in plum rain season; in hot summer, spray water once in the morning and afternoon to humidify and cool down; for indoor potted plants in winter, it is appropriate to keep the pot soil slightly tide. and spray water to the leaves when the temperature is relatively high around noon. In spring, summer and autumn, under the condition of normal fertilization, if the lower leaves of potted plants turn yellow and fall off, it is likely to be due to stagnant water and rotten roots, so it is necessary to turn the basin and change the soil in time; in summer, if you are negligent in watering, when the newly drawn tender shoots wilt and droop, you can not immediately water the basin soil, but spray some water to the leaves first, and then pour appropriate amount of water to the basin soil after the leaves have recovered a little.

4. Soil

Planting in the southern region requires that the planting site is loose, fertile and well-drained sandy loam. Potted plants in the north can be prepared with 7 parts of rotten leaf soil, 1 part of river sand, 1 part of retted organic fertilizer and 1 part of fermented sawdust. During the growing season, the potted plants were loosened once a month to keep their roots in a good state of penetration. In addition, the soil of potted plants can be changed every 1 to 2 years.

5. Fertilizer

Potted plants applied thin mature cake fertilizer and water once a month in the growing season, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer before flowering in May to promote plant flowering. After autumn, they applied phosphate and potassium fertilizer 1 or 2 times to pass the winter safely. Potted plants in northern China, in order to prevent leaf yellowing, 0.2% ferrous sulfate was added during the growing season. Adequate basal fertilizer should be applied when planting in the ground, and cake fertilizer should be applied 0.5 to 1 kg per plant in the end of autumn.

A little knowledge:

There are many reasons why the leaves of wealth tree and evergreen turn yellow. See which one you have, so that you can prescribe the right medicine.

1) to lose weight for a long time. There is no application of nitrogen fertilizer or no change of water for a long time, and the lack of nitrogen and other nutrient elements in the water leads to thin branches and leaves and thin and yellow leaves. It is necessary to change into new culture water in time and gradually apply rarefied mature liquid fertilizer or compound flower fertilizer.

(2) excessive fertilization. If you fertilize too much, the new leaves will be thick, and the old leaves will be rugged, and the dry tips of the old leaves will fall off. You should immediately stop fertilization, increase the amount of water exchange, make the fertilizer lose, or immediately pour the pot, rinse the bulb root with water and then plant it again into the basin.

African jasmine is easy to adapt to unfamiliar environment and can be planted in courtyards and balconies.

African jasmine branches as emerald, leaves shiny, flowers slightly fragrant, elegant flowers, each five-petal, umbrella-shaped, clustered at the top of the flower branch. The flowering period is very long, blooming in winter and summer, and blooming most brightly in spring and summer. Early in the morning or dusk, if there is no faint fragrance, refreshing.

African jasmine is an evergreen (climbing) shrub or small tree of Brucaceae originating in southern China and Southeast Asia. Formerly known as Huazuili Mu (see "Atlas of higher plants of China", "Yunnan Flora" and other books), alias Huilimu, Qinghuangguo and so on. It is similar to the jasmine of Melilidae only in that the leaves are opposite and the flowers are fragrant. Because the homonym of ash wood is similar to jasmine, and in order to make the name good and easy to sell, the florist gave it a new name "African jasmine".

African jasmine is an evergreen shrub or small tree, which can grow to 5 to 12 m in gardens, often epiphytic; leaves opposite, grassy, oblong, elliptic to Obovate, 7 to 13 cm long, 3 to 4.5 cm wide, tip acuminate; dark green above, yellowish green on back. Inflorescences erect terminal, with 1 to 3 flowers, with very short total pedicels, Corolla white, funnel-shaped, fragrant, upper 5-lobed, the whole Corolla trumpet-shaped.

It likes warmth and good sunshine, but it is required to avoid the strong direct sunlight in summer; it likes the environment with high air humidity and good ventilation, and is not resistant to cold, dry freezing and sharp drop in temperature; it grows best on loose, fertile loam with good drainage; it has strong sprouting and tillering ability, especially resistant to repeated pruning. Flowering in May and fruiting from October to December.