The method of Rose insertion and Propagation

In the method of grafting and propagation of rose, rose is propagated by sowing method, it is not easy to obtain seeds, and the offspring can not maintain the excellent character of the mother plant; it is not easy to take root if it is propagated by cutting method; if it is propagated by general grafting method, rootstock is usually cultivated by cutting in the first year or wild rose is harvested as rootstock, and it takes 2 years to form and bloom again in the next year. Whether grafting and cutting can be carried out simultaneously and promote its rapid forming and flowering within a year is of great practical significance in the production of Chinese rose. A new technique of plastic film mulching in autumn and winter is introduced in this paper.

(1) preparation of rootstocks: the so-called rootstocks refer to the ear segments that are used as rootstocks but have not yet been cut alive. Usually from November to December, the resistant and robust "Elizabeth" variety or the sturdy annual branches of wild rose and pink rose were selected as rootstocks. The branch is 0.5-0.8 cm in diameter and 10-20 cm in length. After being cut with sharp shears, the lower part of the branch is cut into a horse ear shape or flat mouth and tied into small handfuls and placed in a wet cloth for cutting.

(2) scion preparation: select the strong branch of rose of the same year as the scion, the thickness is similar to that of the rootstock or slightly thinner, about 6-8 cm long, generally with 2-3 full buds, the tender tip or the branch with larger pith is not advisable, and the branch segment which is not full at the base of the branch is not available, and the branch segment selected as the scion is wrapped in a wet cloth.

(3) grafting operation: split grafting or abdominal grafting can be used. Split grafting: first use a sharp knife to cut longitudinally in the middle of the upper section of the scion selected as the rootstock, with a depth of about 1.5 × 2.0 cm; then cut the branch used as a scion into a wedge at the lower end of about 1.5 to 2.0 cm, and then insert the wedge-shaped end into the split joint of the rootstock, so that the forming layer on at least one side of the anvil is aligned, and the joint of the anvil is bound with plastic tape. Ventral grafting: first cut obliquely at an angle of 300 in the middle of the branch used as the rootstock, with a cut depth of about 1.5-2.0 cm; then cut the lower part of the branch used as scion into a partial wedge, and then accurately insert the wedge-shaped end into the ventral interface to align the forming layer between the anvil, and tie up the joint of the anvil with a film belt for cuttage.

(4) cutting film mulching: the sandy soil with good drainage and leeward was selected as the bed, and the soil was fully turned and raked to form a flat cutting bed with a width of 1.0 meters and a height of 0.3 meters. The soil was sprayed wet before cutting, then the grafted cuttings were cut into the manbed according to the row spacing of 10 cm × 15 cm, and the soil depth was appropriate to cover the joint of the ear stock, so as to facilitate the healing of the interface with the help of the temperature and humidity of the soil. Then insert bamboo bow or bendable Amorpha branches on both sides of the cutting bed as a bow frame, the bow height is about 30 cm, covered with plastic film moisturizing and warming, the film is buried tightly around the soil.

(5) Post-cutting management: in the process of rooting and rootstock joint healing, the inserting bed should be kept moist, but there should be no stagnant water. It is found that when the bed is dry, water can be replenished by lateral irrigation. Insert a bed to protect against cold, with the degree that the soil does not freeze in winter. Generally, after half a month, the incision under the rootstock begins to heal, the healing tissue can differentiate into roots after a month, and the joint of ear rootstock has also healed and communicated. The next spring, March, pick the topsoil around the plant, cut and bind it with a blade, and then re-clog the soil. Remove the film at the beginning of April, and then apply thin fertilizer every half a month, and you can put it on the pot or transplant in the rainy season. If the sprouts on the rootstock are wiped off in time during the growing season and the heart is picked at the beginning, the flowers will take shape and bloom in that year. The above is the introduction to the method of rose insertion and propagation.

Propagation method of Chinese rose cutting propagation method of Chinese rose in Daquan

Flower bonsai network guide: the common propagation methods of Chinese rose are cutting propagation, split propagation and strip propagation. Today, the Flower Bonsai Network will share an article on the breeding methods of rose flowers, and how to reproduce rose flowers. Let's take a look.

Rose is more adaptable. However, only by creating an environment suitable for its biological characteristics can its variety characteristics and the best ornamental effect be brought into full play.

Rose likes mild, hates hot, and avoids cold. The best temperature for rose to grow overnight is 20-25 degrees Celsius during the day and 12-15 degrees Celsius at night. When the temperature exceeds 30 degrees Celsius, the growth begins to be inhibited, the flower buds no longer differentiate, the differentiated flower buds and the formed flowers progress slowly, and the flowers are small. The color is not right and the flowers don't last long. During the period of flower bud differentiation, if you encounter a short-term low (about 5 degrees Celsius), it will produce twigs (that is, branches without flowers). There are great differences in the adaptability of rose to low temperature and cold among different variety groups. Some ancient rose could endure a low temperature of-20 degrees Celsius. Fenghua rose group and hybrid rattan group are generally able to withstand a low temperature of-15 degrees Celsius. Hybrid roses are not cold, but they can survive the winter safely without protection in a low-temperature rose at 10 degrees Celsius. Among the varieties in each variety group, there are also less cold-tolerant varieties.

The rose is resistant to drought and waterlogging. During the growing period, it is the peak growing season in spring, and the lack of water in the soil will affect the growth of new branches, flower size, flower color and flower life. The air humidity is too high, under the condition of poor ventilation, it is easy to be infected with diseases.

Rose likes plenty of light and can't stand shade. In the shaded environment, the plant has slender branches, thin leaves, light leaves and small flowers, but when flowering in strong sunlight, the petals change color and the life span is shortened.

Two methods of cutting and grafting are commonly used to propagate rose. Under certain conditions, other breeding methods are also used. For example, for varieties that are more difficult to root in cuttings, self-rooted seedlings are propagated by pressing, and some clump varieties are often propagated in separate plants; in order to cultivate a large number of rootstocks or cultivate new varieties, sowing is used to propagate.

Cuttage can be carried out all the year round, but it is suitable for stem cutting in winter or autumn, and attention should be paid to water management and temperature control in summer. Otherwise, it is not easy to take root, winter cutting is generally carried out in the greenhouse or greenhouse, such as open-field cutting should pay attention to increase moisturizing measures. It is used for sexual cross breeding in order to sow and breed. For a small number of famous species that are difficult to take root, they should be propagated by grafting, and the rootstock should be wild rose. Such as yellow series varieties.

Sowing and reproduction: the seeds of rose mature about 140 days after flowering and fertilization. After the dormant period (post-ripening), the seeds can germinate under suitable environmental conditions. Therefore, when the fleshy rose fruit changes from green to yellow to red (usually after the first ten days of October), take out the seeds (achenes). Do not dry, and then stratify with sea sand. The seeds will be sown in the early spring of the following year (March-April). The germination of thousands of dry seeds is seriously affected. In order to sow seeds early, but. In order to adopt artificial low temperature treatment to promote ripening and beating dormancy. The temperature of low temperature treatment is below 3 degrees Celsius, about 0 degrees Celsius, and the treatment temperature is 55-65 days. The treated seeds, sown at 20-25 degrees Celsius, began to germinate in 7 days and germinated one after another for about 1 month. Artificial hybrid seeds. When 7-13 true leaves appear, the top may form buds and blossom, which provides an early basis for the preliminary identification of the plant's Pushape, flower color, type, healthy flower and only one-to-two-season flowers in one year. Some seedlings do not form flowers, so they should be divided and transplanted as soon as possible.

Cutting propagation can be divided into two kinds: tender wood cutting and old wood cutting.

Shoots are inserted with semi-lignified branches, usually pruned branches after anthesis. After the flower fades, cut off the remaining flower with the following 1 leaf, and then cut off the following 3 leaves as cuttings. The cut at the base of the cutter is 0.3 cm below the leaf, which requires that the cut is smooth and the skin is not crushed. Cut off the bottom 1 leaf, leave 2 leaflets in the middle and 2 compound leaves at the top, cut off the rest, and then cut it.

Softwood cuttings are best rooted in late spring and early autumn. Although cuttings take root quickly in summer, cuttings are easy to be infected with bacteria and cause rot due to the prevalence of high-growth microorganisms, so summer cuttings should pay special attention to disinfection.

Cutting roots can be cultivated with vermiculite, pure sand or plain sandy soil. Vermiculite has good aeration and water holding capacity, and it is made by calcination. Therefore, it is relatively clean, and the rooting effect of cuttings is better. . Pure sand should sift out Taizu's sand grains, stones and impurities, rinse the powder and too fine sand with rinse water, and then rinse and disinfect them with boiling water. Plain sandy soil should be roasted by fire, or disinfected with chemicals before use.

The depth of cuttings inserted into roots should be slightly deeper in spring and autumn, about 1/2 of the total length of cuttings, and shallow in season, about 1/3. After fully boiling water after insertion,? Cover with glass or plastic film to moisturize and shade.

The main thing after cutting. The management job is watering. In the first 10 days after cutting, watering can be more frequent and keep a wet environment. After 10 days, watering can be controlled and dry again gradually. Water it, huh? Keep it slightly dry and moist. Cuttings take root at 20-25 degrees Celsius in 20-35 days. After giving birth, the cuttings should be transplanted, especially the cuttings in vermiculite and pure sand.

Old branch cuttings are carried out in the spring, generally using winter pruned branches, select strong, full axillary buds of annual branches, cut into 10-15 cm long branches as cuttings. The cut at the lower end of the cutter is 0.5 cm away from the petiole. The cut cuttings are bundled up and buried in the soil for the winter, with a depth of about 30 cm. The cuttings were taken out in the early spring of the following year (early March). Insert the bed and choose the sandy land. The cuttings leave only one bud at the end of the cutter to reveal the soil. Water after insertion. After sprouting, it is necessary to strengthen management, because although the terminal bud has not necessarily taken root, so the upper part of the soil is moist, and the leaves are often sprayed with water. When the leaves of the new plant do not wilt at noon, it shows that the base has taken root, from then on, we can spray less water and shorten the shading time, and combine watering with light fertilizer.

Transplant cuttings to survive seedlings, often die? In order to ensure transplanting survival, we should pay attention to the following points: first, the basin should not be large, the potted soil should not be too fat, second, transplanting into windless weather, carried out in the evening, third, with planting, do not expose the root system to the air for too long, fourth, seedlings should pay attention to take care of the root system, do not break, fifth, watering after planting should be watered thoroughly and placed in the shade to restore growth and remove shading.

Grafting propagation is faster than cutting propagation, and branch grafting is faster than bud grafting. In addition, Grafting can also be done by root grafting. The choice of breeding methods is mainly. Depends on the source of the rootstock and local customs.

Rootstocks are usually collected with multi-flowered rose and pink rose. these rootstocks have the advantages of easy reproduction, strong adaptability, developed roots, good affinity branch grafting and root grafting in early spring from February to March. When grafting, the rootstocks are dug out and carried out indoors, or they can be grafted directly in the field. Cut the rootstock 3 cm to 6 cm above ground, select the smooth side with xylem fir cut, about 2 cm long. Cut the robust branches with two buds as grafts, on one side of the scion, slightly longer than the cut (2.1 cm) of the wood incision, and at the base of the other side, obliquely cut about 0.5 cm into a bevel. Then insert the cut joint into the cut of the rootstock so that the cambium of the two sections are closely attached, and then tie it with binding material (hemp leather, plastic tape). If it is caught on the ground, then cultivate a mound with sand. When indoor grafting, the grafted seedlings can be buried in a warm place with semi-wet soil to promote healing, and then planted in the ground after 2 weeks or more.

Bud grafting in June to October: OK. Buds are often used to graft post-flowering branches, choose axillary buds with 5 small buds below the flowers. If the axillary buds are required to be full and have not yet germinated, cut off the branches, leave 2% to grow the petiole, cut off the leaves, wrap them with wet cloth or paper, and prevent them from drying. What if Yafu? Fully irrigate the rootstock 2-3 days before grafting. When grafting, first carve a "T" shape on the rootstock with a sharp knife, deep to the xylem, the upper horizontal line is 1.2 cm long, and the lower vertical line is 1.8 cm long. Pick out the "T" shape and prepare to insert the bud. When cutting the bud, first cut the knife at 0.5 cm above the bud, cut down slightly with xylem, cut to 1.8-2.0 cm, and pull off the skin. Then rip off all the wood from the bottom up and cut off the skin that is too long in the lower part. Pick out the "Ding"-shaped skin of the rootstock, insert the cut buds so that the ends of the buds are connected with the rootstock thread, and then tie the material. (hemp or plastic tape) tied from top to bottom. Then break the main tip of the rootstock to control its growth. In the following week, the leaf stalk fell off naturally and the bud was bright green, which proved that it had begun to heal in affinity. If the buds are enlarged after 2 weeks, all the bud holes on the rootstock will be removed to promote the grafting and germination. The buds grafted in October no longer promote the budding of the grafted buds to burn in the same year, so as to prevent the new branches from maturing before overwintering and suffer frost injury. Before sprouting in the following spring, cut off the rootstocks 0.8-1.0 centimeters above the grafted buds.

Grafting breeding technique of rose rose

Rose, rose and other grafting generally choose roses with developed roots, exuberant growth and strong disease resistance as rootstocks, and most of the selected varieties are pink roses and wild roses. rootstocks can be propagated by cuttings and sowed with useful seeds and grafted with seedlings. Grafting methods are usually bud grafting, branch grafting and root grafting, and most of them are bud grafting. The commonly used budding methods are T-shaped grafting and sticking budding.

one。 T-shaped grafting method

It is easy to peel off the phloem when the plant has more water content in the seedling growing season. When grafting, the scion selects full buds on the full new shoots of the same year, cuts off the leaves, retains the petiole, then takes a little xylem, and cuts a knife edge of 1.5 cm in length and 0.5 cm in width to form a T-shape. Then the bone part of the tail of the budding knife is used to pick out the incision so that the phloem is separated from the xylem. After gently ripping off the xylem of the grafting bud, it was inserted into the opening of the rootstock, so that the upper flat edge of the grafted bud was aligned with the cross-cutting edge of the rootstock, and the grafted bud was closely consistent with the cambium of the rootstock. Bind the wound with a plastic tape with a width of 0.6 cm to 0.8 cm and a length of about 20 cm to 25 cm to close the wound, exposing buds and petioles. After 5-7 days, the petiole was poked with your fingers, and the petiole was easy to fall off, that is, the grafting was successful, and it was unbound in time about 15 days after survival.

two。 Bud grafting method

It is a kind of single bud grafting when the cortex of rootstock is not easy to peel off in autumn and winter. The buds can be slightly xylem and cut into olive shape. The part of the rootstock is also cut into a similar section like budding. In the lower part of the incision, 2-3mm cross-cutting is left, and the residual pile is left a little to facilitate bud implantation. Align the bud with the cambium of the rootstock (the cortex is aligned with the naked eye) and bind it. This method is usually used to cut roses in Shanghai from September to October. Rooting cuttings are produced in November. After indoor grafting, they are planted in the seedbed at a distance of 10 to 15 centimeters. Plant 45 plants per square meter. The seedling bed should be covered with film or placed in the greenhouse, when the new seedling height is 30cm to 40cm, it can be planted.

Administration and Management

Rose transplantation is carried out between November and March of the following year, and pruning can be carried out at the same time, first cutting off dense branches and withered branches, and then cutting off old and weak branches, leaving 2 or 3 buds growing outward in order to spread out in all directions. Properly cut the especially strong branches to strengthen the growth of the weak branches. when the new branches grow too dense in summer, they should be thinned. After each batch of flowers, the upper part of the branches connected to the residual flowers should be cut off in time, so as not to make the seeds consume nutrients, and to retain the full branches in the middle and lower parts. promote early new branches to bloom again. Rose needs to re-apply basal flowers before flowering and then apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer to strengthen seedlings to promote flowering. Rose has strict requirements on water, not too wet and too dry, too dry and withered, and too wet will hurt roots and leaves.

The main pests of rose are aphids, leaf roll moth, diamondback moth and so on. 1000-1200 times dimethoate or isocarbophos are mainly used for control.

Factors affecting the survival of grafting

1. Selection of rootstocks:

2. Grafting affinity between rootstock and scion:

3. Cambium of rootstock and scion:

4. Temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions during grafting:

5. Quality of rootstock and scion:

Introduction to the method of grafting propagation of rose bud grafting and branch grafting are often used in rose grafting. 1. Budding. Rootstocks can be used with ten sisters, roses, wild roses and so on. The budding time can be carried out from June to September. The two-knife grafting method in the rose garden in Xi'an is not limited by time. The seedlings grafted from June to July can blossom in the same year. Using wild rose as rootstock, the branches are stout and the survival rate is high. Before that, cut off the twigs and superfluous branches and needles in the lower part of the anvil for operation. Scions to choose strong growth, buds to enrich the two disease-free branches of the year, cut off the leaves on the scion, leaving only the petiole. The cut scion is wrapped in a wet cloth to prevent the moisture from evaporating, and it is best to pick it up with the cut. Long-distance carriers should be packed with wet cloth or moss and should not be immersed in water. Because the bud is soaked in water, it is easy to mildew, oxidize and deteriorate, and it is not easy to survive. There are two methods of bud grafting: (1) T-shaped bud grafting: budding in summer, to avoid strong sunlight, the interface is chosen in the north direction of the rootstock. When grafting, first cut a knife horizontally at the upper part of the bud, reaching to the xylem, then cut obliquely upward at the lower part of the bud about 2 cm, to the cross cut, cut into a shield bud piece, and remove the wood part attached to the back of the bud piece. The longer the bud is, the more contact surface is, and the higher the survival rate is. You can also leave 0.5cm on the buds and 1.5cm below, cut it into a shield, then cut it into a "T" shape at the fitting part of the processed rootstock, and then use the peeling knife at the end of the bud grafting knife to insert the junction of the cross-cutting part, slightly peeling the cortex, pinching the bud petiole with your fingers, and then inserting it slowly from top to bottom at the opening. Make the buds fit closely with the rootstock. If the grafting bud is higher than the transverse tangent, it should be gently removed with a bud grafting knife, and the rootstock cortex should be tightly covered with the bud. After the buds are inserted, cover the strict transverse tangent with a 3 mm wide hemp, Malan or plastic film, spiral downward (remember to expose the buds), and wrap the wound strictly all the time. Finally, tighten the end of the rope. The survival was checked after 7 days and 10 days. Those who leave the petiole to fall at the touch of the petiole have survived, otherwise they must be grafted separately. After the bud survived, cut off the rootstock on the bud once or twice.