Old gardener summed up the flower leaves yellow four reasons and solutions, too useful!

The editor has been growing flowers for several years and has encountered all kinds of problems, but the most annoying one is that the leaves of flowers have turned yellow. For example, my favorite rich bamboo, asparagus, gardenia, rich trees, and even my green apple will often have yellow leaves, which not only affect the health of flowers, but also greatly reduce their appearance. Later, I finally found an old gardener summed up the four major causes and solutions of yellow leaves of flowers, I just want to say that too TM works! Tomorrow is the weekend, editor, I am happy, so take out the good things you have hidden and share them with your flower friends, and you are welcome to take them away.

1, the leaves are gradually thin and yellow is mostly caused by indoor placement time is too long, see less sunshine, poor air circulation. At this time, the potted flowers should be moved to a sunny place outside. 2. The gradual thinning of leaves and the yellowing of leaves are mostly caused by the solidification of basin soil or the lack of fertilizer. In this situation, we should pay attention to loosening the soil, fertilization, flowering to increase nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium), generally about 10 days to apply. 3. The leaves suddenly turn yellow and even the fallen leaves are mostly caused by overwatering and rotting roots. Usually pay attention to whether it is dry or not. 4. Macula appears on the leaves, which is called chlorosis (iron deficiency), which is more common in southern flowers such as jasmine and Milan. Because these flowers like acidic soil, while the northern soil is alkaline, it is found that this problem can be applied ferrous sulfate (along with fertilizer), not too much, pay attention to watering after application, adhere to regular application, the leaves can change from yellow to green.

The potted flowers are frozen, can they still live? The old gardener taught me two tricks and saved my life!

The Spring Festival is coming soon, and the weather is getting colder and colder, especially in the morning and night. Flower friends must remember to collect flowers, don't like me, take a pot to the balcony to bask in the sun during the day, but forget all about it at night. When I found it the next morning, except for the rubber trees and camellias, they were basically frozen, and the flesh hurt. The potted flowers are frozen, can they still live? The old gardener taught me two tricks and saved my life!

I don't know if these frozen potted flowers can still live, but I have feelings for such a long time, so I went to consult an old gardener without throwing it away. Unexpectedly, the method he said really saved you. If you encounter a similar situation, you might as well give it a try. The potted flowers are frozen, can they still live? The old gardener taught me two tricks and saved my life!

1. If the flowers are frozen, the necrotic stems, leaves or roots should be cut off first, then placed in a relatively high temperature environment to slowly refreeze, and then gradually increase the temperature of the environment. The night temperature should be kept at 10 to 15 ℃. Be careful not to move the flowers to a high temperature at the beginning, and stop watering until the basin soil is too dry. The potted flowers are frozen, can they still live? The old gardener taught me two tricks and saved my life!

2. If the freezing degree of the flowers is not very serious, you can wrap the potted flowers in three layers with waste newspapers and flowerpots, then secure them with rope and place them in a warm place in the house that will not be directly exposed to the sun. After such a quiet day, the overflow of potted flowers will gradually pick up, and then slowly recover.

Matters needing attention in flower planting in February the Beginning of Spring of the gardener

Matters needing attention in flower planting in February the Beginning of Spring of the gardener

With the baptism of rain, snow and frost, we entered February. Are the boys all right? Honey, are the babies all right? If you suffer a loss, please cheer up. February is coming, can spring be far behind? There are many things to do this month.

This month is the perfect time to do a thorough cleaning. At this time, there are fewer plants in the home than at other times of the year, so it is easy to move. At the same time, doing a good job in cleaning plants before they enter the growing period also helps to reduce diseases and insect pests. So choose a warm, dry, sunny afternoon, move plants, tools and sundries aside, sweep away the soil, plant residue and debris from the ground, and use detergent to mop the floor and scrub flower racks and windowsills if necessary.

Note that if there are grooves or positions that are difficult to clean, you can use a borrowed brush to remove dust debris and possible eggs. After cleaning, open the window to ventilate and accelerate the evaporation of water. Beware of stagnant water. When everything is done, reset the plants, tools and sundries.

If there are plants that have withered in autumn and winter and frozen to death in the cold wave that have not yet been cleaned, don't be lazy at this time, pull out the dead plants, and pour the waste soil together to dispose of (the waste soil without diseases and insect pests can be reused, see the old soil reuse secret book → fun Horticulture 15040), the basin is cleaned, blow-dried and stored together. Save it for the beginning of spring.

Flower friends who have free land to plant in the new year can now turn the land over. In this way, pests and eggs overwintering underground, such as snails, can be turned to the surface, providing a big meal for the birds. At the same time, the added fertilizer is given sufficient time to infiltrate into the soil.

First, gently rake the soil surface with a rake, then sprinkle it with general fertilizer, such as chicken dung, fish intestines, bones, etc., and then plough it flat and step on it.

Finally, rake the surface of the soil a little looser and wait for sowing. If the crop is planted late, it can be covered with organic matter after ploughing to prevent water loss and slowly release nutrients.

Woody plants planted with large floral apparatus need to renovate the nutritious soil every 1-2 years to increase nutrients and improve soil structure. First use a fork to loosen the soil around the shallow roots to the edge of the flowerpot, and then remove as much old soil as possible.

Then the new soil (it is recommended to mix potted soil and organic multi-effect soil at 1:1) is backfilled and compacted to ensure that the roots are in full contact with the soil without cracks. Finally, water thoroughly and cover with gravel or pebbles. The weight of the stone compacts the new soil, prevents the growth of weeds and reduces the evaporation of water.

Maybe some florists can't help but start buying. However, many newly purchased perennials are either bare roots or only wrapped in a little moisturizing soil or stuffed in bubble membranes. No matter what kind of packaging it is, it needs to be removed immediately after receipt to prevent root rot. If the shrinkage of the root or leaf is observed, the root can be soaked in water for 2-3 hours before planting.

If there is a little rot, trim off the rotten leaves and roots and place them in a well-ventilated and sunny place. If you get the plant and the planting place is still frozen or not ready, you can temporarily plant it in loose culture soil and put it in a cool place.

There is a greenhouse or room temperature up to 20 ℃, and summer flower bed plants can be planted in February. In this way, the ideal flowering effect can be obtained in summer. Buying your own seeds and sowing seeds is much more affordable than buying finished seedlings in late spring. The flowers that can be sown are: sage, petunia, black recommendation, carnation and so on.

Flower lovers who like to grow vegetables can try to sow varieties such as cold-resistant salad vegetables, tomatoes, leeks, broad beans and so on.

Put the potatoes in a dark place to grow long, transparent, fragile buds. On the other hand, in a frost-free and bright place, green or purple buds will grow slowly, and such buds will grow rapidly when buried in the soil. This process is called budding.

Early or mid-early varieties of potatoes can be harvested one to two weeks earlier after budding. Early harvest can reduce the chance of potatoes being infected with Fusarium wilt. So if you are going to plant early or mid-early varieties of potatoes, you can sprout now.

Put the potatoes in a seed plate or egg box, with the bud eyes facing the light source, and place them in a sunny, frost-free place, such as on the windowsill, where the green buds can grow 4-8 weeks later.

Finally, plants in the flowering period should remember to regularly remove the residual flowers and fallen leaves to prolong the flowering period and keep the potted plants beautiful. Budding iron chopsticks can now cut off the unbeautiful old leaves that grew last year to increase beauty and reduce the chance of old leaves being infected with leaf diseases.

Source: "Gardeners' World"