MySheen

How to grow Phalaenopsis in the north?

Published: 2024-11-05 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/05, Phalaenopsis is a single-stemmed aerial orchid, which is native to the subtropics. It is very popular because of its beautiful flowers and bright colors. However, because Phalaenopsis has very strict requirements on temperature and humidity, it limits its natural cultivation area, which makes the majority of orchid lovers

Phalaenopsis is a single-stemmed aerial orchid, which is native to the subtropics. It is very popular because of its beautiful flowers and bright colors. However, because Phalaenopsis has very strict requirements on temperature and humidity, it limits its natural cultivation area, which affects the enthusiasm of orchid lovers, especially tropical orchid lovers in the north. But as long as the method is right, Phalaenopsis can also be planted in the north. Planting Phalaenopsis in the northern region should pay attention to the following problems:

(1) temperature and humidity control. In the growth process of Phalaenopsis, the most stringent conditions are high humidity, suitable temperature and not too strong light. The humidity requirements of Phalaenopsis are shown in the relative humidity requirements. Because it belongs to aerial orchids, the cultivation substrate is required to be loose and aerated, and it cannot contain a lot of water, while part of the roots are exposed. This requires regular spraying of water on the leaves and exposed roots, and spraying a certain amount of water to the surrounding environment to maintain the relative humidity above 85% and 90%.

The suitable temperature for the growth of Phalaenopsis is 1828 ℃. Short time (several hours) or intermittent low temperature (> 8 ℃ but less than 18 ℃) or high temperature (> 28 ℃ but less than 32 ℃) does not cause fatal damage to the growth of Phalaenopsis.

(2) summer management measures. In general, the highest temperature for the normal growth of Phalaenopsis is no more than 28 ℃, so the temperature management is very important in the summer management of Phalaenopsis. Because Phalaenopsis is more shady, it can be placed in a shady place and conditionally placed in an air-conditioned room, but pay attention to air humidity. Because on the one hand, water can meet the needs of plant growth and development, on the other hand, it can reduce the air temperature and adjust the leaf temperature. In summer, the number of water sprays per day should not be less than 4 or 5 times.

(3) winter management measures. Phalaenopsis will stop growing when the temperature is below 18 ℃, when it is below 8. At C, he will die. In the north, Phalaenopsis must be placed in heated or air-conditioned rooms in winter. The specific method is to put the flowerpot on the radiator or windowsill, cover the flowerpot with a data bag, take off the bag every morning, evening or morning, in the middle or evening, and spray water on the leaves and exposed roots, and gently pat the water on the bag in time. This not only maintains a higher temperature, but also maintains a higher humidity, thus ensuring the normal growth of Phalaenopsis.

How to cultivate Phalaenopsis in greenhouse in North China? Phalaenopsis (Phalaenopsis aphrodite Rchb. F.) belongs to the genus Phalaenopsis of Orchidaceae, which is native to subtropical rain forest and is an epiphytic orchid. The thick white air roots of Phalaenopsis are exposed around the leaves, which not only absorb nutrients in the air, but also grow and photosynthesis. During the Spring Festival, Phalaenopsis plants draw long pedicels from their leaf axils and blossom like butterflies, which are favored by flower fans and are known as the "queen of foreign orchids". Distributed in Thailand, the Philippines, Malaysia, Indonesia, and Taiwan.

How to cultivate Phalaenopsis in greenhouse in North China? Phalaenopsis is a typical tropical epiphyte under the selected environmental conditions and substrate, which requires good root ventilation during cultivation. It is best to use tile pots or plastic porous pots with a diameter of more than 15 cm. Pot substrate can use water moss, fern root, zeolite, bark fragments, etc., in order to drain water. Test-tube plantlets that have just been removed from glass bottles are best planted in pots filled with water and moss. When changing pots, it is best to use the same matrix to make it easy to take root and avoid delaying flowering in order to adapt to the new environment. Temperature Phalaenopsis requires higher temperature. 25 ℃-28 ℃ in daytime and 18 ℃-20 ℃ at night is the most suitable temperature for Phalaenopsis to grow. The temperature stops growing at 15 ℃. If the temperature is lower than 15 ℃, the root stops breathing, resulting in physiological lack of water, old leaves turn yellow and fall off, adult leaves appear necrotic black spots, and then fall off. When the temperature was above 35 ℃, the plant was in a state of semi-dormancy, which affected the growth and flower bud differentiation. Phalaenopsis bogey strong light direct light, should pay attention to shade. In hot summer, 60% shading net should be buckled on the greenhouse, and 40% shading net should be buckled in autumn. The light is weaker in the infancy and slightly stronger in the flowering stage. Ventilated Phalaenopsis likes the ventilated environment, if the ventilation is poor, it can lead to leaf sagging and serious plant withering. In the greenhouse for the production of Phalaenopsis, the daily ventilation time should be more than 7 hours in summer and not less than 4 hours in winter. The ventilation rate can be larger when the temperature is high and smaller when the temperature is low. The root of watered Phalaenopsis is fleshy, avoiding stagnant water, breathable and dry. If the basin is still very wet 5-6 hours after watering, it is easy to cause rotten roots. In winter, wait for the water temperature to be poured at the same time as the room temperature. The watering time should be in the morning. Watering times depend on plant growth and season. When the surface of the substrate is dry, do not immediately water it, wait until the interior of the substrate is dry. Each watering should be thoroughly watered. In addition, when drying in the greenhouse, foliar water spraying should be carried out in order to increase humidity. When the temperature drops below 15 ℃, watering should be strictly controlled. Fertilizing Phalaenopsis likes to be fat, but avoid thick fertilizer. The seedlings are mainly nitrogen fertilizer, and the concentration should be diluted lower. The balanced fertilizer with the same ratio of N, P and K should be used for strong seedlings. P and K fertilizers are the main fertilizers in the reproductive growth period (flowering stage). The best fertilizer is orchid special fertilizer. In the vigorous growth period, 1500 times the amount of rarefied liquid fertilizer can be used instead of watering. Stop fertilizing when the temperature is low (below 15 ℃) and at flowering stage. Pest control Botrytis cinerea: fungal disease. Symptoms: at the initial stage of infection, there are very few water-like spots on the leaves, and then gradually expand, and form black-brown round disease spots, petals also form disease spots, serious petals fall off. Disease conditions: weak light, low temperature, high humidity, prone to gray mold. Prevention and control methods: do not put too dense in the basin, pay attention to ventilation, when the weather is bad, when the temperature in the greenhouse is low, water as little as possible to avoid excessive humidity. Drug control, in the initial stage of the disease, you can use 25% carbendazim 300-fold solution, or 50% carbendazim 800m liquid spray. It can also be sprayed with 1500 times of thiophanate methyl or 75% chlorothalonil. Bacterial soft rot: is a bacterial disease. Symptoms: in the early stage of infection, irregular water-immersed spots are produced on the leaves, which cause the leaves to fall off when they are serious. In the later stage of infection, the whole plant rotted in the form of water immersion. The condition of the disease: the germs invade from the wound by watering. It is easy to occur when the plant has a wound, or too much humidity or low temperature. Prevention and treatment: when changing the basin, try to avoid artificial injury to the root, less watering when the temperature is low, to avoid excessive humidity. Pharmaceutical control, timely spraying 72% of agricultural streptomycin sulfate soluble powder 4000 times or neophytomycin 4000 times. Anthrax: fungal disease. Symptoms: in the early stage of the disease, light brown sunken spots appeared on the leaves, and gradually expanded, turning into brown, and in severe cases, several disease spots were connected. Necrosis occurs in the center of the lesion and falls off later, resulting in perforation. Disease condition: it belongs to high temperature and high humidity disease. The onset temperature is 24 ℃-35 ℃ and the humidity is 80% Mel 95%. In this range, the higher the temperature and humidity, the more serious the disease. The disease can be induced by poor drainage, partial application of nitrogen fertilizer, insufficient light, and untimely ventilation and moisture drainage. Control methods: ① selection of disease-resistant varieties; timely ventilation and moisture drainage after ② watering; rational fertilization of ③; ④ chemical control: at the initial stage of the disease, spraying 50% carbendazim wettable powder 500x liquid, or 50% methyl thiophanate 600x solution plus 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 1000 times liquid, or 80% gangrenous magnesium wettable powder 800x liquid. Root rot: fungal disease. Symptoms: the root of the diseased plant was rotten, and the lower leaves were yellow. with the progress of the disease, the upper leaves were also affected, and the leaves began to fall from bottom to top. Small black spots appeared at the root and the base of the stem. Disease conditions: poor ventilation, poor drainage, resulting in excessive humidity. Especially after watering for 5-6 hours, the basin is still very wet, which is easy to cause this disease. Control methods: selection of disease-resistant varieties for ①, selection of pots and substrates for ②, and timely ventilation and dehumidification after ③ watering. Efficient cultivation techniques and Daily maintenance Management of Phalaenopsis in North China

Phalaenopsis is a kind of flower that many friends like. Today, the editor of Huinong Network has sorted out an article about the planting and management of Phalaenopsis in the north. Florists in the north, come and study quickly.

1 cultivation techniques of Phalaenopsis in North China

1.1 cultivation containers

There are differences in cultivation methods and cultivation containers. In general, large-scale cultivation of Phalaenopsis, cultivation containers can use tile pots or plastic pots. If it is in a flower shop or flower supermarket, the cultivation container can choose a decorative pot; if commercial flowers need to be properly maintained before they are on the market, you can choose 5~13cm 's transparent plastic nutrition bowl as the cultivation container.

1.2 cultivation substrate

In the process of cultivating Phalaenopsis, the substrate had better be the substrate with good aeration and drainage. In general, the frequently used substrates are peat, aquatic plants, sawdust, coconut shells, moss and so on, while the frequently used substrates in Dalian are aquatic plants. Planting Phalaenopsis in peat is also easier than water moss in overall management. For example, when planting Phalaenopsis with water moss, if the plug of water moss is too tight when changing the basin, it will affect the root growth, and if the plug is too loose, it will easily lead to acidification of water moss and rotten roots of Phalaenopsis, and the good permeability of peat can well avoid these problems, and the technical difficulty of potting will be reduced.

2 maintenance technology of Phalaenopsis in northern area

2.1 Seedling maintenance

In the process of maintaining the seedlings, we first need to carry out the pot operation of the seedlings, that is, after the seedlings are out of the bottle, they need to be transplanted to the basin of 5cm after 2 to 3 months, and then use the super aquatic plants that have been soaked 1 day before (the water content is about 30%), and wrap them in the root system of the seedlings to avoid exposing the roots. And the leaves can not be wrapped in aquatic plants, pay attention to loose and tight when wrapped, so as to avoid damage to leaves and roots. After completing the pot operation, it is necessary to pour half-thoroughly with 1500 times of methyl topiramate, or spray it with fungicides on the 2nd day.

2.2 maintenance of medium seedlings

There is also a certain standard when changing the basin of the middle seedling, if the leaf length reaches 12cm and the width is more than 3cm after 3-4 months, it can be transplanted into the 8cm basin, and if its root system is strong, it can also be transplanted. In the process of changing the basin, the seedlings that have reached the standard are mainly taken out of the 4cm basin and treated properly to remove the rotten or old roots. After the completion of the basin change operation, it needs to be maintained, sterilized 1 day after the basin change, and sterilized every 10 days thereafter. In general, fungicides can be used alternately with zinc Meng B Pu 800x solution + Yili 1000 fold solution or 99% tetracycline 3000 fold solution.

2.3 maintenance of large seedlings

When changing the pot of large seedlings, it can only be carried out after the middle seedlings have grown for 2-3 months. If the leaf tip distance is in 20cm and the root growth is very strong, you can change it to the basin of 11~13cm. When changing the basin, you first need to put a layer of Styrofoam particles in the transparent plastic bowl, and then put in the water plant, remove the rotten leaves and roots from the 8cm bowl, and wrap a layer of water grass. After the completion of the basin change, it needs to be properly maintained, and some seedlings of different sizes should be placed separately to facilitate maintenance, and sterilization should be carried out 1 day after the basin change, which is the same as the above operation.

2.4 Arrow maintenance

Usually, the flowering time is about 50 days. If the seedling starts to pull out the pedicel, stop the flowering operation at low temperature, and distinguish the plants that have already extracted the pedicel from those that have not. After the arrow, adjust the direction of the flower arrow in time, so that its leaves are in the east-west direction, and the direction of the pedicel is to the south of the growing point. During the period of arrows, proper maintenance is also needed, fertilizer and water are irrigated alternately, usually twice fertilizer and one water, fertilization can alternately use high phosphate fertilizer and average fertilizer, the dosage is 5000 times liquid.

2.5 flowering maintenance

The flower bud will germinate after the pedicel is pulled out for 30 days. At this time, the flowerpot can not be moved on a large scale, and the clamp needs to be mended in time. There are at most 3 clips for each flower arrow, and the highest clip is about 15cm under the first flower bud. During this period of time, it needs strong light, and 20000~35000Lux is the best light intensity, so it is necessary to choose the right light location. The temperature also needs to be properly controlled. During flowering, the best temperature during the day should be 22: 28 ℃, keeping in mind that it should not be lower than 20 ℃ or higher than 30 ℃; at night, the temperature should be controlled at 20: 25 ℃, the minimum should not be less than 18 ℃, and the maximum should not exceed 25 ℃. In the process of controlling humidity, the humidity should be kept at 60%-70% during flowering, the lowest should not be less than 50%, and the highest should not be more than 80%. Too high humidity can easily lead to plant diseases, which will eventually affect its commerciality; too low will greatly shorten its life span, and eventually there may be symptoms such as early withering of flowers. After flowering, the operation of fertilization can be reduced appropriately, and it is only necessary to apply fertilizer twice during the period from bud to flowering. In addition, it is necessary to supplement trace elements to promote the robust growth of the plant.

That's all about the planting and management technology of Phalaenopsis in the north. Farmers in the north and those who have this kind of flowers must learn the knowledge of this article.

 
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