Introduction to the cultivation techniques of impatiens

Balsam alias henna, impatience, daughter flower, buttercup and so on, Impatiens family, annual herb, stem erect, plant height 30-80 cm, stem thick, succulent and smooth, node dilated, green or dark brown. Stem color is related to flower color. Leaves alternate, narrowly lanceolate, margin serrulate. Flowers single or several fascicled leaf axils, 3 sepals, two lateral ones smaller, rear one large, extending outward into a spur. 5 petals, two pairs of connate, like 3, or double, white, pink, red, purple or variegated, sometimes with stripes and spots. The florescence is from June to October. The capsule tip is ovate, the seeds are round, yellowish brown, and are easy to burst when mature.

Impatiens is hot and afraid of cold, adaptable and capable of self-sowing and reproduction. The whole herb can be used as medicine, and the flower mainly treats snakebite, waist and rib pain; roots and leaves can disperse blood and pass menstruation.

Now most of the flower market is New Guinea Impatiens, New Guinea Impatiens belongs to the Impatiens family Impatiens perennial evergreen herbs. The flowers are rich in color, bright and cheerful in color, blooming in the four seasons, luxuriant flowers and long florescence; plump plants, clean and beautiful leaves, unique leaf shape; fast growth rate, natural molding, suitable for annual supply of fashionable potted flowers.

Growth condition

The ideal vegetative growth temperature is 22 ℃ ~ 25 ℃ at night 20 ℃ ~ 21 ℃; after 5 weeks, for tall plants 24 ℃ ~ 26 ℃ at night 18 ℃, for compact plants 20 ℃ ~ 21 ℃ at night 18 ℃; the night temperature of 18 ℃ is the ideal temperature for flower differentiation and development, especially under low light; when the daytime temperature exceeds 28 ℃ ~ 29 ℃, it should be shaded, otherwise the size of florets will be reduced. The temperature lower than 15 ℃ or higher than 32 ℃ will affect the normal growth. It needs plenty of light, but it needs to block the strong light in summer.

Cultivation techniques

The finished flowers are usually planted in the flowerpot of 10~15cm; the substrate should be sparse, breathable and have a certain degree of water retention. Very sensitive to salt damage, suitable for thin fertilizer and diligent application. Avoid overwatering or drought. The optimum pH value is 5.8-6.5. In order to make the plant plump, coring and plastic surgery should be carried out.

Fertilization and watering

50~100ppm nitrogen fertilizer was used for the first three weeks, 100ppm nitrogen fertilizer for the next three weeks, and then fertilized according to soil analysis. Watering every two weeks to avoid salt damage. Twisted, dark green and curled leaves are a sign of too high salinity, and the application of slow-release fertilizer and micronutrient fertilizer often leads to poisoning.

Pest control

The main diseases are Botrytis cinerea, Pythium, Sclerotinia sclerotiorum and powdery mildew. Low salt and appropriate amount of irrigation water can avoid Pythium. Insect pests: we should always pay attention to the control of thrips, spiders (growing point curls) and fungal mosquitoes before flowering, otherwise the application of insecticides at flowering stage will affect the development of flowers. 35 ounces / 100GAL can be used to control fungal mosquitoes.

Matters needing attention

The problems easy to occur in cultivation are mainly manifested in delayed flowering or non-flowering: lack of light, high night temperature (higher than 20 ℃), and high nitrogen fertilizer application, which often exist at the same time; no rooting or initial growth, root rot, wet substrate, and often low temperature (below 20 ℃) and sometimes too high salinity; if only some plants do not grow, fungi and mosquitoes may be a reason. Sterile or few flowers: usually caused by low light and high night temperature (night temperature above 20 ℃), which is more serious at the same time; high nitrogen fertilizer, especially high ammonia nitrogen fertilizer, is also caused, which can be more serious at the same time.

This is the editor's introduction to the cultivation techniques of impatiens. I hope it will be helpful to you.