Key points of maintenance of potted flowers in different periods

Pour the root water.

The first watering after planting is called rooting water. The fixed root water must be thoroughly watered. Because the newly planted soil is not completely sunk, there are many voids in the soil, and only after watering through, the soil and the root system can be fully combined. Generally, it is necessary to continuously irrigate twice after planting, dry after the first watering, and re-irrigate again after the water flows out of the basin bottom hole, so as to ensure that the soil is fully absorbed and closely connected with the root system.

When watering, most flowers are sprayed. It can not only increase the air humidity, but also wash the foliar dust. But for flowers with fluffy leaves or flowers that are blooming, you can't spray water. Instead, you should sit the flowerpot in the basin and use the bottom hole to make the soil moist.

The respiration of potted flowers is exuberant in summer, which requires good permeability of potted soil. Therefore, the basin soil should not be watered when it is not dry, so as not to affect the air permeability, but it should be watered immediately and must be thoroughly watered after drying. In summer, the basin soil is often cracked because it is too dry, so watering can not be completed at once, otherwise the water leaks straight through the cracks, and most of the basin soil is still very dry. Wait a moment after the first watering and water again after the soil cracks are closed.

If you forget to water for many days, resulting in plant drought and wilting, do not rush to water, first move the potted flowers to a cool and ventilated place, spray the leaves with a spray can for 2 or 3 times, wait for the leaves to slow down, then a small amount of water, and so on after the root system resumes water absorption function, and then thoroughly watered.

Careful watering in midsummer and cold winter

Water temperature has a direct effect on the root physiological activity of flowers. If there is a great difference between water temperature and soil temperature (more than 5 ℃), watering will cause a sudden change in soil temperature and damage the roots, but affect the absorption of water by the roots, resulting in physiological drought. Therefore, watering is better when the water temperature is close to the soil temperature, especially in winter and summer. In winter, it is best to store the water indoors for a period of time, or slightly add warm water to raise the water temperature to 15: 20 ℃, and then irrigate. In summer, you should avoid watering in the hot sun and high temperatures at noon.

Flower watering time

The choice of watering time should make the water temperature close to the soil temperature as far as possible. In general, the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is less than 5 ℃, watering flowers is safe and root damage will not occur. Specific to the daily time of watering flowers, spring, summer, autumn and winter are also different.

In spring, autumn and winter, about 10:00 in the morning and after 4 o'clock in the afternoon are the suitable time to water flowers. Midsummer noon, the temperature is very high, flowers foliar temperature can often be as high as 40 ℃ or so, transpiration is strong, while water evaporation is also fast, the root system needs to constantly absorb water, supplement the loss of foliar transpiration, if cold water is poured at this time, although water is added to the basin soil, but due to a sudden drop in soil temperature, root hair is stimulated by low temperature, it will immediately hinder the normal absorption of water. At this time, due to the lack of any preparation in the flower body, the foliar stomata were not closed, and the water lost the balance of supply and demand, resulting in a tense state of foliar cells to wilt, resulting in "physiological drought" of the plant, scorched leaves and, in serious cases, death of the whole plant.

This phenomenon is particularly obvious in herbaceous flowers, such as geranium, pineapple, chrysanthemum and so on. Therefore, do not water the flowers at noon in the hot summer. By the same token, there is a big temperature difference in the morning and evening in winter, so of course you should water the flowers at noon when the soil temperature is close to the air temperature. Many flower growers are used to watering in the evening, mistakenly thinking that this is the best, but in fact, on the contrary, especially in winter or indoors, if they are watered at night, the water will dissipate slowly, which will increase the potted soil and air humidity and easily lead to flowers infected with diseases and frost damage.

Watering at different developmental stages

1. Seedling stage

Pot soil should be dry, as the saying goes, "dry roots, wet long leaves", dry soil is easy to grow roots and strong seedlings. Too much water will cause the seedlings to grow too much.

two。 Vegetative growth period

Adequate watering can lead to luxuriant branches and leaves, otherwise the plant grows slowly. However, we should not blindly water the basin soil and cause water to rot the roots. The general watering principle is that the basin soil is dry and wet, alternating between dry and wet, with the principle of keeping the topsoil moist. The term "dry" here does not mean that the basin soil has no moisture at all and that it is unscientific to say that it is "dry and thoroughly poured through until water is seen to flow out of the bottom hole". Because the soil is thoroughly dry, cracks will occur between the basin and the soil, and a large amount of water will be lost along the cracks during watering, which obviously cannot be poured through. In this case, the soil should be loosened before watering or the water should be fed directly by soaking basin method.

3. Reproductive growth period

During the transformation from vegetative growth to flower bud differentiation, if too much water or more nitrogen fertilizer is applied, the formed flower buds will also become leaf buds, so the method of deducting water (controlling watering) can be used to restrain the excessive growth of branches and leaves and promote the formation of flower buds. For example, triangulated plum, plum blossom, green peach and magnolia can effectively increase the flowering rate by controlling water for 2 or 3 times from June to July and then watering the branches and leaves wilting.

4. Flowering and fruiting period

Once flowers enter the stage of budding, flowering and fruiting, they consume the most water, and there can be no shortage of water, let alone wilting of branches and leaves, otherwise the flowering period becomes shorter and flowering is bad. But not too much, especially not stagnant water, long-term stagnant water will lead to falling flowers and fruits.

The above is the general law, the frequency of watering should also be flexibly controlled according to the local climatic and environmental conditions at that time, such as air humidity, the texture and size of flowerpots, the condition of pot soil, and so on.

Key points of maintenance of potted flowers in different periods

The same kind of flowers have different water requirements, such as cactus, cactus and other succulent flowers are more drought-resistant and do not need more watering, while flowers such as umbrella grass and crab claw orchid like wet environment and need more watering. The same kind of flower has different requirements for water in different growth periods, more water is needed in the peak growth period, more watering is appropriate to promote growth, and less watering is appropriate in the flower bud differentiation period to promote flower bud differentiation.

Selection of water quality for watering flowers

Natural water can be divided into hard water and soft water. The mineral salt content of hard water is high, and long-term irrigation will adversely affect the growth of flowers. The mineral salt content of soft water is low, so it is an ideal water for watering flowers. The hardness of Rain Water, river and lake water is low and can be directly used for irrigation, but the hardness of groundwater such as spring water and well water is so high that flowers can not be irrigated directly. Tap water is not suitable for direct use because it contains chlorine and other disinfection substances. It is best to store it in open tanks and ponds for 3 to 5 days, waiting for harmful substances in the water to volatilize and precipitate before use.

Pour the root water.

The first watering after planting is called rooting water. The fixed root water must be thoroughly watered. Because the newly planted soil is not completely sunk, there are many voids in the soil, and only after watering through, the soil and the root system can be fully combined. Generally, it is necessary to continuously irrigate twice after planting, dry after the first watering, and re-irrigate again after the water flows out of the basin bottom hole, so as to ensure that the soil is fully absorbed and closely connected with the root system.

When watering, most flowers are sprayed. It can not only increase the air humidity, but also wash the foliar dust. But for flowers with fluffy leaves or flowers that are blooming, you can't spray water. Instead, you should sit the flowerpot in the basin and use the bottom hole to make the soil moist.

The respiration of potted flowers is exuberant in summer, which requires good permeability of potted soil. Therefore, the basin soil should not be watered when it is not dry, so as not to affect the air permeability, but it should be watered immediately and must be thoroughly watered after drying. In summer, the basin soil is often cracked because it is too dry, so watering can not be completed at once, otherwise the water leaks straight through the cracks, and most of the basin soil is still very dry. Wait a moment after the first watering and water again after the soil cracks are closed.

If you forget to water for many days, resulting in plant drought and wilting, do not rush to water, first move the potted flowers to a cool and ventilated place, spray the leaves with a spray can for 2 or 3 times, wait for the leaves to slow down, then a small amount of water, and so on after the root system resumes water absorption function, and then thoroughly watered.

Careful watering in midsummer and cold winter

Water temperature has a direct effect on the root physiological activity of flowers. If there is a great difference between water temperature and soil temperature (more than 5 ℃), watering will cause a sudden change in soil temperature and damage the roots, but affect the absorption of water by the roots, resulting in physiological drought. Therefore, watering is better when the water temperature is close to the soil temperature, especially in winter and summer. In winter, it is best to store the water indoors for a period of time, or slightly add warm water to raise the water temperature to 15: 20 ℃, and then irrigate. In summer, you should avoid watering in the hot sun and high temperatures at noon.

Flower watering time

The choice of watering time should make the water temperature close to the soil temperature as far as possible. In general, the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is less than 5 ℃, watering flowers is safe and root damage will not occur. Specific to the daily time of watering flowers, spring, summer, autumn and winter are also different.

In spring, autumn and winter, about 10:00 in the morning and after 4 o'clock in the afternoon are the suitable time to water flowers. Midsummer noon, the temperature is very high, flowers foliar temperature can often be as high as 40 ℃ or so, transpiration is strong, while water evaporation is also fast, the root system needs to constantly absorb water, supplement the loss of foliar transpiration, if cold water is poured at this time, although water is added to the basin soil, but due to a sudden drop in soil temperature, root hair is stimulated by low temperature, it will immediately hinder the normal absorption of water. At this time, due to the lack of any preparation in the flower body, the foliar stomata were not closed, and the water lost the balance of supply and demand, resulting in a tense state of foliar cells to wilt, resulting in "physiological drought" of the plant, scorched leaves and, in serious cases, death of the whole plant.

This phenomenon is particularly obvious in herbaceous flowers, such as geranium, pineapple, chrysanthemum and so on. Therefore, do not water the flowers at noon in the hot summer. By the same token, there is a big temperature difference in the morning and evening in winter, so of course you should water the flowers at noon when the soil temperature is close to the air temperature. Many flower growers are used to watering in the evening, mistakenly thinking that this is the best, but in fact, on the contrary, especially in winter or indoors, if they are watered at night, the water will dissipate slowly, which will increase the potted soil and air humidity and easily lead to flowers infected with diseases and frost damage.

Watering at different developmental stages

Seedling stage

Pot soil should be dry, as the saying goes, "dry roots, wet long leaves", dry soil is easy to grow roots and strong seedlings. Too much water will cause the seedlings to grow too much.

Vegetative growth period

Adequate watering can lead to luxuriant branches and leaves, otherwise the plant grows slowly. However, we should not blindly water the basin soil and cause water to rot the roots. The general watering principle is that the basin soil is dry and wet, alternating between dry and wet, with the principle of keeping the topsoil moist. The term "dry" here does not mean that the basin soil has no moisture at all and that it is unscientific to say that it is "dry and thoroughly poured through until water is seen to flow out of the bottom hole". Because the soil is thoroughly dry, cracks will occur between the basin and the soil, and a large amount of water will be lost along the cracks during watering, which obviously cannot be poured through. In this case, the soil should be loosened before watering or the water should be fed directly by soaking basin method.

Reproductive growth period

During the transformation from vegetative growth to flower bud differentiation, if too much water or more nitrogen fertilizer is applied, the formed flower buds will also become leaf buds, so the method of deducting water (controlling watering) can be used to restrain the excessive growth of branches and leaves and promote the formation of flower buds. For example, triangulated plum, plum blossom, green peach and magnolia can effectively increase the flowering rate by controlling water for 2 or 3 times from June to July and then watering the branches and leaves wilting.

Flowering and fruiting period

Once flowers enter the stage of budding, flowering and fruiting, they consume the most water, and there can be no shortage of water, let alone wilting of branches and leaves, otherwise the flowering period becomes shorter and flowering is bad. But not too much, especially not stagnant water, long-term stagnant water will lead to falling flowers and fruits.

The above is the general law, the frequency of watering should also be flexibly controlled according to the local climatic and environmental conditions at that time, such as air humidity, the texture and size of flowerpots, the condition of pot soil, and so on.

Key points of maintenance of potted flowers in different periods

China Garden Network, Aug. 12: different kinds of flowers have different water requirements, such as cactus, cactus and other succulent flowers are more drought-resistant and do not need more watering, while flowers such as umbrella grass and crab claw orchid like wet environment and need more watering. The same kind of flower has different requirements for water in different growth periods, more water is needed in the peak growth period, more watering is appropriate to promote growth, and less watering is appropriate in the flower bud differentiation period to promote flower bud differentiation.

Selection of water quality for watering flowers

Natural water can be divided into hard water and soft water. The mineral salt content of hard water is high, and long-term irrigation will adversely affect the growth of flowers. The mineral salt content of soft water is low, so it is an ideal water for watering flowers. The hardness of Rain Water, river and lake water is low and can be directly used for irrigation, but the hardness of groundwater such as spring water and well water is so high that flowers can not be irrigated directly. Tap water is not suitable for direct use because it contains chlorine and other disinfection substances. It is best to store it in open tanks and ponds for 3 to 5 days, waiting for harmful substances in the water to volatilize and precipitate before use.

Pour the root water.

The first watering after planting is called rooting water. The fixed root water must be thoroughly watered. Because the newly planted soil is not completely sunk, there are many voids in the soil, and only after watering through, the soil and the root system can be fully combined. Generally, it is necessary to continuously irrigate twice after planting, dry after the first watering, and re-irrigate again after the water flows out of the basin bottom hole, so as to ensure that the soil is fully absorbed and closely connected with the root system.

When watering, most flowers are sprayed. It can not only increase the air humidity, but also wash the foliar dust. But for flowers with fluffy leaves or flowers that are blooming, you can't spray water. Instead, you should sit the flowerpot in the basin and use the bottom hole to make the soil moist.

The respiration of potted flowers is exuberant in summer, which requires good permeability of potted soil. Therefore, the basin soil should not be watered when it is not dry, so as not to affect the air permeability, but it should be watered immediately and must be thoroughly watered after drying. In summer, the basin soil is often cracked because it is too dry, so watering can not be completed at once, otherwise the water leaks straight through the cracks, and most of the basin soil is still very dry. Wait a moment after the first watering and water again after the soil cracks are closed.

If you forget to water for many days, resulting in plant drought and wilting, do not rush to water, first move the potted flowers to a cool and ventilated place, spray the leaves with a spray can for 2 or 3 times, wait for the leaves to slow down, then a small amount of water, and so on after the root system resumes water absorption function, and then thoroughly watered. Careful watering in midsummer and cold winter

Water temperature has a direct effect on the root physiological activity of flowers. If there is a great difference between water temperature and soil temperature (more than 5 ℃), watering will cause a sudden change in soil temperature and damage the roots, but affect the absorption of water by the roots, resulting in physiological drought. Therefore, watering is better when the water temperature is close to the soil temperature, especially in winter and summer. In winter, it is best to store the water indoors for a period of time, or slightly add warm water to raise the water temperature to 15: 20 ℃, and then irrigate. In summer, you should avoid watering in the hot sun and high temperatures at noon.

Flower watering time

The choice of watering time should make the water temperature close to the soil temperature as far as possible. In general, the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is less than 5 ℃, watering flowers is safe and root damage will not occur. Specific to the daily time of watering flowers, spring, summer, autumn and winter are also different.

In spring, autumn and winter, about 10:00 in the morning and after 4 o'clock in the afternoon are the suitable time to water flowers. Midsummer noon, the temperature is very high, flowers foliar temperature can often be as high as 40 ℃ or so, transpiration is strong, while water evaporation is also fast, the root system needs to constantly absorb water, supplement the loss of foliar transpiration, if cold water is poured at this time, although water is added to the basin soil, but due to a sudden drop in soil temperature, root hair is stimulated by low temperature, it will immediately hinder the normal absorption of water. At this time, due to the lack of any preparation in the flower body, the foliar stomata were not closed, and the water lost the balance of supply and demand, resulting in a tense state of foliar cells to wilt, resulting in "physiological drought" of the plant, scorched leaves and, in serious cases, death of the whole plant.

This phenomenon is particularly obvious in herbaceous flowers, such as geranium, pineapple, chrysanthemum and so on. Therefore, do not water the flowers at noon in the hot summer. By the same token, there is a big temperature difference in the morning and evening in winter, so of course you should water the flowers at noon when the soil temperature is close to the air temperature. Many flower growers are used to watering in the evening, mistakenly thinking that this is the best, but in fact, on the contrary, especially in winter or indoors, if they are watered at night, the water will dissipate slowly, which will increase the potted soil and air humidity and easily lead to flowers infected with diseases and frost damage.

Watering and raising seedlings at different developmental stages

Pot soil should be dry, as the saying goes, "dry roots, wet long leaves", dry soil is easy to grow roots and strong seedlings. Too much water will cause the seedlings to grow too much.

Vegetative growth period

Adequate watering can lead to luxuriant branches and leaves, otherwise the plant grows slowly. However, we should not blindly water the basin soil and cause water to rot the roots. The general watering principle is that the basin soil is dry and wet, alternating between dry and wet, with the principle of keeping the topsoil moist. The term "dry" here does not mean that the basin soil has no moisture at all and that it is unscientific to say that it is "dry and thoroughly poured through until water is seen to flow out of the bottom hole". Because the soil is thoroughly dry, cracks will occur between the basin and the soil, and a large amount of water will be lost along the cracks during watering, which obviously cannot be poured through. In this case, the soil should be loosened before watering or the water should be fed directly by soaking basin method.

Reproductive growth period

During the transformation from vegetative growth to flower bud differentiation, if too much water or more nitrogen fertilizer is applied, the formed flower buds will also become leaf buds, so the method of deducting water (controlling watering) can be used to restrain the excessive growth of branches and leaves and promote the formation of flower buds. For example, triangulated plum, plum blossom, green peach and magnolia can effectively increase the flowering rate by controlling water for 2 or 3 times from June to July and then watering the branches and leaves.

Flowering and fruiting period

Once flowers enter the stage of budding, flowering and fruiting, they consume the most water, and there can be no shortage of water, let alone wilting of branches and leaves, otherwise the flowering period becomes shorter and flowering is bad. But not too much, especially not stagnant water, long-term stagnant water will lead to falling flowers and fruits.

The above is the general law, the frequency of watering should also be flexibly controlled according to the local climatic and environmental conditions at that time, such as air humidity, the texture and size of flowerpots, the condition of pot soil, and so on.