How to cultivate longevity flowers? what is the method of hydroponics and propagation of longevity flowers?

Longevity flower, this is a kind of plant that many people like very much, if there is only one longevity flower in a large pot, should there be loneliness, or should we take a look at how to raise longevity flowers to burst pots? It won't be long before you breed more:

1. Stem cutting propagation

Longevity flowers can reproduce in all seasons, as long as the temperature is above 15 degrees, the success rate of reproduction between 20 and 30 degrees will be higher.

In places with cold weather, you can choose to reproduce in summer and autumn. Stem cutting is more common. You can cut short the long branches and propagate more plants.

Some longevity flowers are too tall to blossom easily. We can cut them into sections, each about 7 centimeters. We need to remove the leaves from the lower part of the stem, put them in a shady and ventilated place, and let the wound dry slightly before cutting propagation.

As pictured above, the success rate of longevity stem cutting will be very high. Peat soil: perlite 1:1 ratio can be selected for culture soil, or rotten leaf soil with 1:1 river sand ratio for cutting.

The stem of the cuttage can be inserted into the soil by 3 cm, and the basin soil is slightly damp, not too wet, let alone stagnant water, and then it is placed in a brightly lit place. The basin soil dries up and replenishes water, and two weeks later it begins to give a little light.

2. Leaf cutting propagation

Leaf cuttage propagation is to use the lower part of the longevity flower stem thicker, robust leaves for cutting, leaves with a little petiole, the germination rate will be higher, a slight defect of the leaves will not affect germination and rooting.

After the petiole wound is dried, it can be inserted obliquely into the soil about 2 cm, or it can be laid directly on the soil surface, facing up, and the soil remains slightly damp and not moist.

The cultivated soil is the same as the upper stem soil, which ensures that there is stagnant water. soon, the following small buds can grow, which requires patient maintenance. after the seedlings grow, they begin to slowly reduce watering and give a little bit of scattered light.

3. Hydroponic propagation

Hydroponic propagation is to put a section of stem or petiole in water, soak the root, and then consider transplanting, or continue hydroponic culture.

The treatment of stems and leaves, such as the above 1 or 2 propagation methods, soak the stem or petiole about 2 cm in water after treatment, do not touch water on the leaf surface, change water every 5 days, and the root system grows to 3-5 cm, which can be transplanted into the soil.

(as shown above)

4. Ramet propagation

Ramet propagation is even more simple, just transplanting lateral buds and some ramets with soil and roots when changing pots.

You can choose to change the pot from August to September, so that the flowering period of longevity flowers will not be affected. If the longevity flowers grow luxuriantly, the roots of too many branches can be cut off with a sharp knife after disinfection, and then replanted into other containers. Keep the pot soil moist and not moist after potting.

In order to bloom more, in addition to the frequent application of thin fertilizer, it is also necessary to properly pinch the top, control the plant type, and promote branching and flower bud germination.

This is the end of the introduction to the method of exploding the pot of longevity flowers, and it is concluded that it is a problem of reproduction.

Can longevity flowers be cultured in water? breeding methods of hydroponic culture

Can longevity flowers be hydroponically cultivated? To paraphrase an old saying, in theory, all plants can be hydroponically cultured, and longevity flowers are no exception, and the method is very simple. This paper introduces the hydroponic culture methods of longevity flowers and the propagation methods of hydroponic cuttings.

Can longevity flowers be hydroponically cultivated?

First of all, the water culture of longevity flowers can be divided into two situations, one is water insertion and rooting, and then soil cultivation, and the other is that, like hydroponic plants, they are always hydroponically cultivated. Let's sort out these two kinds.

Hydroponic culture method of longevity flower

1, the water inserts the root, this is also relatively simple, casually get a branch, and then insert it into the clear water, the white root can be produced in less than a few days, if you want to transplant, it is best to dry the root and then plant it, but the water cutting and rooting transplanting is a bit superfluous, because the longevity flower cuttage is very simple, and the survival rate is also very high.

2, hydroponic longevity flowers, this is also very simple, select a good-looking branch, and then insert the hydroponic bottle, generally change water once a week, rinse the roots, you can (of course, continue water is also possible). Some flower friends question it. Is it as simple as that? It is really that simple, longevity flowers are very easy to manage flowers and plants, as for the later water culture bottle whether to put some ceramsite ah what, it all depends on the individual play!

Propagation method of longevity flower by hydroponic culture

(1) benefits of propagation of longevity flowers by hydroponic culture

1. It is easy to observe the rooting state at any time.

two。 It is easy to take root, and the speed of rooting is more than twice as fast as that of soil. The fastest varieties can take root in 3 days to 1 week, can be transferred to soil in 15 days, slow varieties can take root in 10-15 days without accident, and can be transferred to soil in less than 1 month.

3. Hydroponic culture is more flexible than soil planting, and it can be carried out at any time, and water can be changed and added at any time. Unlike soil planting, it is not always worried that the branches are too wet to rot or the humidity is not enough to take root, because the short rooting time also reduces the chance of infection, that is, the rooting survival rate is higher than that of soil planting, especially in summer and autumn.

4. The growth situation of the terminal bud will stop when the soil is inserted, and all the nutrients will be supplied to the wound healing and rooting, and some leaves will wilt and wither and the terminal bud will be black-tipped, which will need to wait for rooting before the new bud will grow again; however, under the condition of hydroponic culture, the growth and rooting of the terminal bud are not wrong, and it can quickly enter the seedling stage management after changing soil.

Longevity water culture after rooting, but also transferred to the soil culture of this ridge, but as long as the medium disinfection and seedling transfer careful not to hurt the root, generally on the pot survival rate is not difficult to reach 100%.

(2) preparation of longevity flower cuttings before water culture

1. Prepare cuttings, air-dry and cut for 1 night or 1 day

two。 Wash and disinfect the seedling box, etc., fill it with 8 minutes to cool and boil

3. Drill a hole in the sterilized foam; use 2 drops of alcohol to open a little rooting powder (because the rooting powder is not soluble in water!)

4. Dip the end of the plug into the rooting powder, then insert it into the Jack and fix it. All the blades should be above the foam.

5. Remember to label it and put it light and flat in the seedling box.

6. If it is winter cutting can be covered with a transparent seedling box lid, summer and autumn do not need to cover, and then move the seedling box to the light, waiting for rooting.

(3) points for attention

1. The selection of cuttings is the basic premise to ensure the high quality of potted flowers. For hydroponic cuttings, it is ideal to choose healthy, strong and full cuttings with about 10 to 15 cm long, with 2 / 3 nodes with more than 3 / 4 pairs of leaf terminal buds (see figure 1 below). It is best to cut at the nodes between the branches (see the red line of figure 2 below) or at about 1cm below the nodes, and the maximum cross-sectional area is formed at an angle of about 45 °. If the terminal bud is a flower branch, cut off the residual flowers. It is best to have a stalk above 1cm below the cuttings. If it interferes with the bottom of the Jack, the pair of leaves can be removed, and the rest of the leaves can be retained as far as possible.

two。 The cross-sectional wounds of branches, terminal buds and petioles used before hydroponic culture should be naturally air-dried for more than 4 hours. This is determined by the characteristics of succulent and serous plants, otherwise the wound is prone to blackening and ulceration leading to rooting failure. In general, herbaceous and woody cuttings should not be dehydrated for too long to prevent air from entering the vascular bundle and blocking water transport, so herbaceous woody cuttings should be dried at most. If the leaves wilt, it is best to soak the branches and leaves to show that the water transport is not in the way before entering the next process. But long-lived cuttings must not be soaked in water before cutting, but need a certain degree of air-drying, even if the bark is wrinkled and wilted, on the contrary, it is more likely to root. For example, long-lived branches sent from other places do not need any moisturizing treatment. after several days of transportation, the wound naturally dries up after arrival, so it is good to cut them at this time. Don't gild the lily, cut off the dried parts like grass cuttings and soak them in fungicides, rooting fluids and so on. The air is humid in the south. I usually cut it the night before and cut it the next day or the third day. I once put the fairy meat side ball that my neighbor broke off and gave it to me on the shelf for a month before it took root on the tide soil. Nothing happened.)

3. Containers for holding water, foam for cutting fixation, bamboo sticks for sockets, etc., need to be washed and dried before hydroponic culture, and it will be better if they can be rinsed with potassium permanganate solution for detoxification. I also wear disposable film gloves when cutting. After the cuttings are fixed, try not to touch the water.

4. Cutting water by the good → inferior order is: bottled mineral water (of course, big factory brand quality assurance, not directly discharged to the back of tap water) → cold white boiled → family water purifier (can filter heavy metals, impurities and part of the harmful substances of the kind) out of the filtered water → barreled drinking water → tap water, sometimes use filtered water boiled cold white, and sometimes directly use filtered water. In the process of rooting, we should pay attention to keep the water quality clean, and it is best to change the water once a day for the first two days.

5. When hydroponic culture, the foam (preferably the kind of high density, hard and thin) is opened with a bamboo stick, and the hole distance is just enough to insert the stem of the cuttings without sloshing, and the bottom of the stalk should be exposed to the lower foam, that is, it must be immersed in water; the branch leaves on the foam are stuck just above the hole, that is, the leaves can not be immersed in water, and the leaves should be kept dry as far as possible while waiting for rooting.

6. After inserting, you should try your best to keep the cuttings in a stable and static state, and don't move them for nothing or often take them out and look at them.

7. The upper part of hydroponic culture does not need shading, but it can be sunburned normally, but photosynthesis can accelerate rooting. If the water level in the container drops, water should be added in time (cuttings with beverage bottles should be paid more attention to). Do not let the cuttings get out of the water for too long. I like to use a seedling box with an opaque bottom (see figure 4), because the queried data show that the lack of light at the bottom can better simulate the dark environment under the soil and help to take root (that is, hoodwinking it! Transparent beverage bottles can be covered with black plastic bags. There is also a seedling box can be inserted many trees at a time, foam suspended on the water surface, can automatically change with the water level, do not have to worry about hanging out of the water like a beverage bottle.

How to raise longevity flowers the culture method of longevity flowers

How to raise longevity flowers the culture method of longevity flowers

Longevity flower (scientific name: Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), also known as caramellia, dwarf cabbage, Christmas cabbage, longevity flower, Brosfield Anne cold vegetable, belongs to the genus crassulaceae and is native to Madagascar in Africa. Longevity flowers are common ornamental flowers.

Reproduction

Can use cutting and sowing propagation, cutting can use stem cutting and leaf cutting, but stem cutting is more convenient and quick. When the stem is inserted, cut off the terminal bud of the healthy plant, which is about 5 to 6 centimeters long. after the wound heals, it is inserted into the culture soil to keep the soil moist and ventilated. when it is higher than 30 degrees Celsius, it is necessary to sprinkle water to cool down. After about 2 weeks, you can start to apply fertilizer. On the other hand, the leaves are cut off from healthy and fat leaves, put the cut leaves in a cool place for about half an hour for the wound to dry and heal, and then shallowly insert or lay them on the permeable sand to keep the sand semi-damp, do not be too wet, otherwise it is easy to rot, when the air is dry or cold, you can add transparent film to cover the moisturizing and heat preservation, and put it in a place with soft sunlight and ventilation, which can take root within one month and sprout in four months.

Seeds are usually used for reproduction in the early stages of horticultural breeding. Most of the longevity flowers are sown in March, just sprinkle the seeds on the moist soil, gently compact the seeds on the mud surface, and then wrap them in transparent plastic bags to moisturize and place them in a sunny place, but they can not be exposed to strong light. The plastic bags can be removed at this time, but be careful not to let the soil get too dry. If the air is dry, spray is needed to moisturize, and eight pairs of leaves will grow. Can be moved to full-day or half-day place for normal management.

Planting

Longevity flowers like the growth environment with sufficient sunshine but short sunshine time, and should be planted in full sunshine to half-day environment. It is easy to grow in a dark place. Avoid direct sunlight at noon in hot summer, so as not to burn leaves, and the growth rate is medium. Longevity flowers come from semi-desert areas. They are drought-resistant and can only be watered when the soil is dry. In winter, watering should be reduced. As long as the soil is not dry, too much watering can easily cause stem and root rot. After flowering, longevity flowers will enter dormancy, during the period to reduce watering, can not be fertilized, about six weeks later began to return to normal growth and watering. Longevity flowers can not stand the temperature below 12 ℃, and the most suitable temperature for growth is 18 to 27 ℃, so longevity flowers should be placed in the bright part of the room to survive the winter and keep warm. The longevity flower is not resistant to cold, the suitable temperature for growth is 15 to 25 ℃, the growth will be blocked when the high temperature exceeds 30 ℃, the indoor temperature in winter needs 12 to 15 ℃, when the indoor temperature is lower than 5 ℃, the leaf will turn red, the flowering period will be delayed, if the room temperature exceeds 24 ℃, the flowering will be inhibited, and the temperature will bloom continuously at 15 ℃ to 24 ℃. Longevity flowers are short-day plants, which can start short-day management in mid-September, suspend fertilization, and stay in the dark for at least 14 hours a day before blooming.

Planting technology

Longevity flower is a kind of succulent plant, with large and bright leaves forming low clumps of plants, green all the year round, small and exquisite plants, compact plant shape, dense flowers, strong disease resistance, warm and humid nature, drought tolerance, light tolerance, long florescence, easy cultivation, suitable for indoor decoration in winter, outdoor decoration in summer, excellent ornamental effect.

In foreign countries, longevity flowers are not only indoor ornamental potted flowers, but also widely used in outdoor landscape. At present, this concept has been gradually accepted by domestic landscape designers, and began to apply it to garden sketches. Under modern management conditions, the production of longevity flowers can reach 100 pots per year, and the output per unit area is higher than that of Anthurium andraeanum, pineapple and other large potted flowers.

In recent years, imported double longevity flowers have been successfully introduced by Beijing Wuzhou Xiangyuan Agricultural Development Co., Ltd., which has been recognized by the market for its unique charm in the shape of roses, and has become a very valuable and potential "new variety of flowers". Wuzhou Xiangyuan Company continues to push through the old and bring forth the new. in addition to the mainstream red system, it has also introduced pink, purple, yellow, light green and other varieties; in order to improve the planting quality of longevity flowers in China, the company aims at the problem of planting seedlings of longevity flowers. over the years, continuous communication with foreign suppliers, summed up the main points of longevity flower planting management.

Planting technology

Peat with medium particles in the matrix is mixed with lime, fertilizer, clay, etc.

The standard pot size for cuttings is 9 cm, 10 cm or 11 cm.

Watering requires restraint to avoid overgrowth of the plant.

Fertilize and apply compound fertilizer, add calcium, cooperate with watering, the pH value is 5.5 to 5.8. It should be noted that water sample analysis should be carried out before fertilization. The pH value and EC value of the matrix in the basin should be measured once a week, the pH value should be 5.0 to 6.0, and the EC value should be 1.8 to 2.5.

CCC was used in the early stage of plant growth and B9 in the later stage.

The suitable temperature for rooting was 22 ℃, and the suitable temperature for plant growth was 19 ℃. When the outdoor light is too strong, it is necessary to use ventilation to reduce the temperature. In addition, the temperature should not exceed 25 ℃, otherwise the high temperature will weaken the effect of short-day treatment.

Shading and artificial light supplement in summer, outdoor high temperature is easy to make plant leaves red, when the light intensity is more than 65000 lux, shading must be carried out. In winter, in order to shorten the growth time of the plant for one or two weeks and form more inflorescences, it is necessary to replenish light artificially, the light intensity should reach 3000 lux, generally before short-day treatment, and the sunshine length should be not less than 18 hours / day.

The relative humidity should reach 75% to reduce the harm of germs.

How to raise longevity flowers? every experienced flower friend has his own set of methods. He has accumulated some experience in raising longevity flowers for many years. Here, I would like to exchange with you who has better conservation knowledge to speak freely.

One: soil and environment

Longevity flowers do not have high requirements for soil, so it is better to be loose and breathable. Rotten leaf soil, pine needle soil and garden soil with cinder are all fine. The sun is sufficient, the appropriate temperature is 15-25 degrees, above 30 degrees is in semi-dormancy, below 10 degrees, growth stops, leaves turn red below 5 degrees, and frostbite below 0 degrees. Lack of light can easily lead to overgrowth of plants, resulting in thin branches, thin leaves, reduced number of flowers and not gorgeous flowers.

Two: cutting branches into thousands

Longevity flower old plants after flowering or summer, should turn the pot to change the soil, otherwise the growth will be weak. Especially the double petal varieties, it is easy to plant Lignification. I usually cut once every other year, and the season of cutting is all four seasons, with spring and autumn as the best. Summer and winter are fine, but it takes root slowly. The survival rate of planting thousand in summer is lower. When cutting, cut the branches with more than four healthy leaves, and the cut can be cut after the wound is dried.

It can be hydroponically rooted and then transplanted, or it can be inserted directly into the pot soil. Proper shading should be carried out. Since the cuttings have not yet developed roots, it is necessary to maintain a certain degree of humidity. It can be properly sprayed to moisturize. It will take about a week to take root. If the temperature is low, it will take longer to take root. The branches planted in the soil, when they see the leaves hardening and shining, they have already taken root and survived.

Third: growth period

After the seedling survives, it is necessary to pinch the tip and hit the top to promote more branches. If you have more branches, you can bloom more, and the plant type is beautiful. Longevity flowers are drought-tolerant and do not need a lot of water. Watering is based on the principle of seeing wet and dry. The amount of water should be controlled at a low temperature in winter to avoid rotting roots. Autumn is the peak growing season for longevity. After September, it is necessary to ensure the supply of water and fertilizer, so that the plant can grow strong and blossom more. Summer must not be continuous rain, do not bask in the sun after the rain, high humidity and high heat will cover the root, it will rot, will get black rot. Summer should also be properly shaded, not exposed to the sun. If possible, you can transfer to the north balcony. If there are no conditions, you can pull up the sunshade net or put it in the shade of a tree. Can be maintained according to their own conditions.

Matters needing attention in the culture of longevity flowers:

How to raise longevity flowers is the first problem that comes to mind for friends who are ready to raise longevity flowers. The leaves of longevity flowers are bright and green all the year round. The florescence of longevity flowers is from December of each year to April of the following year. A short period of 5 months can bring good viewing value. However, longevity is a relatively easy to raise flowers, the soil can be allowed to be dry, can not be wet, dry until the leaves are a little wilted there is no problem, once thoroughly watered. Some flower friends have tried that it is all right to put it outside the window in summer. If the longevity flower does not see light for a long time, it will only grow, and the leaves will become thinner accordingly. Longevity flowers are afraid of freezing, so they need to be put indoors in winter and add some phosphate fertilizer when they bloom.

Longevity flower culture has the best growth effect in soil pottery with good permeability, and can be cultivated directly in purple sand basin and plastic basin. It is worth noting that when planting, put a layer of broken charcoal or hard plastic foam block at the bottom of the basin. This is to increase permeability, and it is not easy to choose perishable roots in heavy clay. Family potted plants should be mixed with rotten leaf soil and vegetable garden topsoil, and then add 5% to 8% sand as culture soil. When planting, add some bone meal or nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer as base fertilizer.

Longevity flowers have more water content, so they are resistant to dryness and fear of waterlogging. They are watered only when the soil in the basin is relatively dry, and can be kept slightly moist at ordinary times. It is better to water less in summer and once every 5 to 7 days. If you properly control the water basin, the soil will be dry and wet, then there will be more branches, leaves and flowers. After entering the room in winter, it is appropriate to use water similar to room temperature at noon, about once a week.

Longevity flowers like fertile environment, after flowering appropriate application of nitrogen fertilizer, urea liquid fertilizer is the best. Make longevity flowers stronger. The rest of the time can only apply nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer, fertilizer must not be fertilized to the leaves, otherwise it will wither, but also need to pay attention to, do not apply fertilizer in summer.

The cultivation of longevity flowers also need to pay attention to, longevity flowers also like the environment where the sun is sufficient, and the scorching sun should be properly avoided. The rest of the time is best placed in the sun. Keeping light for more than four hours a day can make plants stronger. Although the semi-shade can also grow, but the stem thin leaves thin flowers less color, such as overcast easy to drop leaves without flowers, longevity flowers the most suitable temperature for growth is 15 ℃ to 25 ℃, in December can blossom.

Longevity flowers should pay attention to cold protection in winter, room temperature should not be lower than 12 ℃, longevity flowers have phototropism, so during the growth period, attention should be paid to change the direction of flowerpots, adjust light, make plants receive light evenly, and promote branches to grow symmetrically around. Flowers should be cut off whenever they wither, so as to avoid wasting nutrients. The basin is changed after the flower fade in spring every year, and the basin soil is made of humus, garden soil, river sand and a small amount of bone powder. This kind of culture soil is loose and fertile, has good drainage performance and is slightly acidic, which is beneficial to the growth and development of longevity flowers.

Longevity flowers are usually propagated by cutting, and they are easy to survive in culture. Generally more than spring and autumn, cut the stem with 3-5 leaves, inserted into the sand bed or vermiculite basin, each basin 3-5, maintain a moderate moist state, about 20 days can take root.

In addition, in order to prolong the growing period of longevity flowers, we can properly pick the hearts of the longevity flowers in this season, so that they can not only look more beautiful, but also bloom at the right time.

Longevity flowers, namely dwarf cabbage, are perennial succulent herbs, with opposite leaves, tender and succulent leaves, easy to break; terminal Cymes with orange-red, yellow, red and other colors, short plant shape, long florescence, luxuriant flowers and high ornamental value.

First, use basin soil

The pot should be small and transparent, and the long-lived flowers should be planted in loose sandy soil to grow best in clay pots with good permeability, but they are not beautiful indoors, and can be covered with plastic pots or porcelain pots, or directly planted in small purple sand pots or plastic pots. When planting, put a layer of broken charcoal block or broken hard plastic foam block at the bottom of the basin to enhance its permeability. Although it is not very selective, it is easy to rot roots in heavy clay, and grows best in loose and fertile slightly acidic sandy loam. Family potted plants should be mixed with rotten leaf soil and vegetable garden topsoil, and then add 5% to 8% sand as culture soil. When planting, add some bone meal or nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer as base fertilizer.

Second, water control and fertilizer use

Moderate water control leaves are luxuriant, rich phosphorus and potassium flowers are colorful longevity flowers, which contain more water in the body, so they are more resistant to drought and afraid of waterlogging, and grow well under the condition of dry air in high-rise buildings. About 3 days in spring and autumn, you can see that the basin soil is dry and watered once, often keep a little moist. It is advisable to water less in summer, and it is better to water once every 5 to 7 days. The longevity flowers should be placed outdoors. In the rainy season, the water is prone to rot, roots, leaves and even death. If you properly control the water basin, the soil will be dry and wet, then there will be more branches and leaves and flowers. After entering the room in winter, it is appropriate to use water similar to room temperature at noon, about once a week.

Longevity flowers like fertilizer, and the seedlings can be planted in pot for half a month or the old plants can be divided into two or three times to promote the growth of stems and leaves, and nitrogen-based liquid fertilizer can be applied once after anthesis to promote its rejuvenation. In the rest of the time, except for stopping application in summer, we can only apply nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer, do not put fertilizer on the leaves, otherwise the leaves are easy to rot, such as accidentally dirty leaves, rinse off with water. The flowering period of longevity flowers is long, so it is necessary to break the commandment of not applying fertilizer during flowering period, and apply thin nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution once a month, so that the later flowers will not become small and pale due to lack of fertilizer.

Third, temperature and light

Longevity flowers like a sunny environment, except for a little shade at noon in midsummer, the rest of the time should be placed in the sun, at least 4 hours of direct light can be seen every day in order to grow healthily. The balcony of the building should rotate the flowerpot 180 degrees every half month to make it receive light evenly, avoid partial crown and reduce the ornamental value. Although the semi-shade can also grow, but the stem thin leaves thin flowers less light, far less luxuriant than the sunny place. If the shade is not only easy to lose leaves and no flowers, even if the flowering plants are placed in the shade, the flower color will become dim, and then the flowers will fall off and wither.

The most suitable temperature for longevity flower growth is 15 ℃ to 25 ℃, higher than 30 ℃, growth retardation, semi-dormancy, growth stagnation below 10 ℃, redness of leaf color below 8 ℃, delayed florescence, and easy to freeze to death below 0 ℃. Therefore, in order to raise longevity flowers, it is necessary to create a small environment that is warm in winter and cool in summer. At noon in midsummer, you should avoid strong light exposure and place it in a semi-shady place with sufficient scattered light, such as under big trees, under eaves or north balconies, and pay special attention to ventilation and cooling. You can sprinkle water on the ground nearby, but not on the plants.

After the Beginning of Autumn, sunshine can be seen gradually from late August to early September, and more sunshine should be seen from October to promote its transformation from vegetative growth to reproductive growth. When the lowest temperature drops to about 10 ℃, move indoors and place it in front of the south or west windowsill to make it more sunny. Keep 10 ℃ at night, 15 ℃ to 18 ℃ during the day, and blossom in December.

Four: fertilizing

Do not apply fertilizer in the process of inserting thousand. When the branches survive and grow new leaves, they can be fertilized, but they must apply thin fertilizer diligently. Compound fertilizer is the main growth period. Summer is the semi-dormant period of longevity flowers, it is not allowed to apply fertilizer, otherwise it will burn roots. October is the period of flower bud differentiation, which can be sprayed with some aqueous solution of potassium dihydrogen phosphate and combined with root irrigation. It is suitable that the concentration should be more than 1, 000. Spray every 7-10 days until the buds appear.

Fifth, pay attention to cutting

Longevity flowers do not have high requirements for soil, so it is OK to mix a small amount of base fertilizer with sandy loam or peat soil. Fertilize once with compound chemical fertilizer or fermented organic liquid fertilizer in about 3 days during the growing period to make the plant strong. Summer high temperature and humidity can not be fertilized, and so on after the bud to apply a thicker organic fertilizer or compound fertilizer. In the early stage of exuberant growth, pay attention to pick the heart, promote branching, and make the flowers grow fuller.

Six: disease treatment

Longevity flower pests mainly include aphids, western flower thrips, scale insects, cyclamen mites, leaf rollers and mushroom mosquitoes.

Aphids can cause serious damage to longevity flowers, especially in winter and early spring. The effect of biological control of aphid parasites and wasps is better than that of chemical control.

The number of western flower thrips is relatively small. Thrips like to invade the soft tissue at the growing point of the plant, and their number can be monitored with armyworm plates every week.

On the other hand, the shell insects mainly invade the axillary buds and growth points. A small number of shell insects can also cause a lot of damage, and as long as they are attacked by the scale insects, the plants can no longer be sold. Once shell insects are found in the greenhouse, it is recommended to deal with them immediately to prevent spread.

Cyclamen mites do not like warmth and heat, so they rarely cause harm in summer, mainly in winter. Symptoms include stunted growth, deforming the growth point and discoloring the bud. They are often hidden in the bud or among the young leaves around the growing point.

Longevity flower fungal diseases include powdery mildew, Botrytis cinerea, Rhizopus, lacquer spot, stem rot, Pythium and so on. Powdery mildew is the most serious fungal disease harmful to longevity flowers. Powdery mildew is difficult to identify because when white villous mold appears, the disease is already very serious. Most powdery mildew on longevity flowers are difficult to control chemically.

Botrytis cinerea can rot the leaves and stems of longevity flowers in winter, which can be effectively prevented by keeping the leaves dry and well ventilated, but many Botrytis cinerea leave obvious spots on the leaves.

Rhizopus often occurs in a warm and humid environment, and the thin and soft tissue is the most susceptible to infection. It often happens if the environment is too warm or too wet.

Rhizoctonia lanceolata will be harmful to mosquitoes at the same time during the breeding period of longevity flowers. Too close placement of plants, poor air circulation and warm and humid between plants can cause bacterial outbreaks.

There are many kinds of fungi that cause longevity flower stem rot, such as Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, Rhizoctonia and so on. In general, these fungi can be found in infected plants, but the most common is to drill holes in the stem with mushroom mosquitoes, causing damage at the same time, which should be treated with both germs and insect pests.

The roots of Pythium longevity flowers are very sensitive to unreasonable watering, which can cause problems if they are too dry or too wet. According to experience, Pythium mostly occurs as subordinate diseases in harsh conditions. Longevity flowers can survive with a small number of roots, if the root environment is not good, the plant will only grow part of the roots, making Pythium more likely to invade.

The viral hazards of longevity flowers include longevity mosaic virus, impatiens necrotic spot virus, macular virus, cold vegetable latent virus, Kara virus and so on.

Longevity mosaic virus (Green Island virus) this is the most common virus in longevity flowers, it appears very widely in modern hybrid varieties. The virus appears only in plants with poor growth conditions and severe infection, showing dark green mosaic spots on the leaves, which can inhibit the growth of diseased plants in severe cases. At present, there is no feasible immunoassay to control the virus, and aphids may be carriers of the virus.

Impatiens bad death spot virus this is a variety of tomato spot wilt virus, can cause a series of damage to longevity flowers, sometimes even as if caused by mistakes in the production process, it is spread by the western flower thrips.

Macular virus can cause yellowing and necrotic plaques, but there is no effective immunoassay method at present. In longevity flower planting, once infected with the virus, the plant will be completely destroyed.

The virus has no symptoms at all, but can be detected by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (Elisa).

The symptom of this virus is the appearance of light green to yellow mosaic spots on the leaves that can be detected.

The physiological diseases of longevity flowers mainly include spraying drug injury, flower injury, short-day light injury, ethylene injury, stress response, variation and so on.

Spraying some insecticides can cause toxic damage to the flowers and leaves of longevity flowers, and many of the EC components corrode the stratum corneum of longevity flowers and petals, eventually causing the flowers to fade and leave spots on the leaves.

There are many reasons for flower damage of longevity flowers, and the continuous high humidity is the main cause. In the early stage of planting, supplementation of appropriate calcium ions and keeping plant activity as far as possible can prevent this from happening, and some sensitive and fragile varieties will show special symptoms under unsatisfactory conditions.

Short-day light damage longevity flowers need to be dark for at least 6 hours a day during planting, even during long-day treatment, exposure to darkness for a long time can lead to yellowing of robust leaves.

Ethylene damages mature fruits placed in storerooms or retail stores to produce ethylene, which is exposed to very low concentrations of ethylene, and longevity flowers will drop flowers or degenerate buds within a few days, so more attention should be paid during transportation, storage or display. In addition, the malfunctioning of the CO2 generator in the greenhouse will cause the same problem.

Adversity response the stress response of longevity flowers can be caused by a series of reasons, including water, light and temperature. Under mild conditions, the mature leaves of the plant will fade; when the environment is extremely harsh, ethylene begins to be produced inside the growth point, resulting in typical symptoms of ethylene poisoning, the plant growth stops completely, the growth point turns red, and the bud degenerates.

All the mutations were caused by genetic defects.

The most common pests of longevity are aphids and leaf miners. Aphids are easy to treat, but leaf miners are not easy to deal with. They like to drill into leaves, and it is difficult to find them. By the time they are found, the mesophyll has basically been eaten and turned into transparent dry leaves. Usually, we should pay more attention to the changes of leaves, and spray medicine when we find it. In order to avoid flooding. Dimethoate, imidacloprid, paracetamol and so on are all effective on this pest.

Raising longevity indoors in winter is the easiest to produce white powder. It's mainly because of poor ventilation. It is generally solved with strychnine after white powder. Sulfur powder can also treat white powder. The sulfur powder is insoluble in water, so the leaves should be sprayed wet, and then the sulfur powder should be spread evenly on the diseased leaves. Powdery mildew should be treated and quarantined in time, which will infect other healthy flowers. Longevity also includes stem rot and leaf blight, which can be sprayed with methyl topiramate 800 times liquid. Once stem rot is found, medicine can be used if it is not serious. If it is serious, healthy branches should be cut and the diseased plants should be thrown away.