What are the correct pruning and breeding methods of holly?

Holly, a common woody plant, can often be seen near flower beds. Many people also grow holly trees in their yards.

How to prune holly correctly

1. Pruning time of holly

The shoots of the branches and leaves of holly grow very rapidly, and many new buds come out every year, so holly is a very pruning-resistant plant, so there is no need to worry that excessive pruning will affect the growth of plants.

In summer, holly has more branches and leaves, and its growth is more exuberant, so it can be pruned in summer, and in autumn, it can be trimmed into an ideal shape according to the image design. At this time, in addition to modeling for holly, but also for holly thinning a branch.

2. The pruning part of holly

We generally trim the thin curved branches of holly with weak growth, usually cut off about 1/5 of the whole branch, retain only the part of the flower bud, and trim off the flower branches at the top of the holly crown.

We can also trim it into a suitable shape according to the needs of garden decoration, which generally needs to be pruned according to the growth status and crown shape of holly. When pruning, we can trim holly a little lower from its ideal height. Holly will soon grow into a suitable shape and size, which is more natural.

After the holly is trimmed into the ideal shape, the new branches should be trimmed regularly, because the growth ability of holly is very strong, and the already made holly shape will be easily destroyed if it is not pruned in time.

When pruning, we should also pay attention to pruning some side branches to increase the light and air permeability of holly, which can prevent the reproduction of pests.

3. Maintenance of holly after pruning

After pruning, there will be wounds in holly, we should pay attention to prevent wound infection, cause disease of holly, incision infection is easy to cause branch blight of holly, the disease should be treated with drugs in time. A little quicklime can be applied to the wound to prevent infection.

What are the propagation methods of holly?

1. Sowing and propagation of holly

The ripe holly fruit is harvested in autumn, peeled and washed with clean water. The seeds need to germinate and can be stratified with wet sand at low temperature and sown before March of the following spring. The growth is slow in the seedling stage, so attention should be paid to maintenance and management. If holly seeds are not treated by accelerating germination, they often have to germinate every other year.

2. Cutting propagation of holly.

The cutting of holly can be carried out in all four seasons, which is suitable for late spring and early summer and early summer and early autumn. Generally choose to carry out softwood cuttings in the rainy season, the cuttings are 6 to 8 cm long, remove the lower leaves, retain 1-2 leaves and cut short, insert 1 to 2, use sandy soil as the matrix, set up a shed for shade after insertion, often spray water, keep the soil moist, and take root in about a month.

3. Matters needing attention in the reproduction of holly

After the seedlings have been cultivated in the nursery for 3 years, they can be transplanted and planted, and the best choice for transplanting is in spring. Be careful when digging seedlings to avoid root damage and transplant with soil. At the beginning of planting, we should do well in ploughing and weeding, watering reasonably and strengthening management. In addition, holly is vulnerable to white wax and soot disease, so pay attention to timely prevention and control.

After holly cutting, need to set up a shed for shade, reduce transpiration and weaken the direct sunlight seedbed at the same time. If cuttage is carried out in early spring or late autumn, it is necessary to cover with film to prevent winter damage. Frequent watering is needed after cutting to keep the soil moist. Topdressing of cutting seedlings can be combined with watering, or foliar spraying can be carried out with phosphoric acid: potassium hydrogen plus urea. Weeding should be done carefully to avoid colliding cuttings.

Fruit tree planting method _ when will the fruit tree seedlings be planted?

Content Abstract: fruit has rich nutritional value and delicious taste, so it is the best choice for modern health and nourishment, while planting fruit trees at home and enjoying the fruits of your own labor has become the best way to relax after work. If you have a comprehensive fruit tree planting technology, you should first grasp the fruit tree planting information, so when is it better to plant fruit tree seedlings? What about the planting method of fruit trees?

[fruit Tree Seedling varieties Daquan]

Potted varieties: sugar orange, orange, lemon and so on.

Varieties planted in the courtyard: Apple, snow pear, litchi, mango, yellow peel, lotus mist, perfume lemon, Sanhua plum, Hawthorn, figs, papaya, grapes, cantaloupe, sugar cane, remaining sweet fruits, bananas, blueberries, peaches, cherries and so on.

Hillside planting varieties: sugarcane, loquat, persimmon, fig, lotus fog, capable, chestnut, walnut and so on.

When will the saplings of fruit trees be planted?

Planting time

The planting of fruit tree seedlings has a certain law of seed carrying, and most of them are planted in spring. in order to improve the planting survival rate, it can be chosen from March to April in spring. in this stage, the temperature is suitable, it is hot and cold, and the seedlings are easy to survive.

Planting matters needing attention

1. Climate observation: first of all, we should choose a suitable planting site according to the varieties of fruit tree seedlings, which requires consideration of climate, temperature, humidity, light, ventilation and so on. Secondly, the planting of fruit tree seedlings, more choice of market seedlings, requires a certain understanding of this kind of fruit tree seedlings, and can master the correct planting technology.

two。 Habit understanding: similar to the choice of planting site, it is required to have a certain understanding of the growth habits of the plants, which can facilitate the daily maintenance after planting.

3. Growth status: have a certain understanding of the growth state of planted plants, can establish a reference, in order to determine their own fruit tree planting, whether there are diseases, and other growth problems.

[method of propagation of fruit tree seedlings]

Cuttage propagation

This breeding method has the advantages of easy survival and convenient transplantation. in spring, the hard branches of 1-2 years old on the mother plant are intercepted, the length is about 20 cm, the oblique cutting method is adopted, and 50% of the fungicide is diluted with clean water. Cuttings are carried out directly with a plant distance of about 4 cm.

When cutting, 2/3 can be directly covered with soil, and the choice of soil is mostly loose sandy soil, which can have the advantage of respiration, avoid the phenomenon of difficult germination and stuffiness of roots, and enhance the ability of reproduction.

Grafting propagation

The grafting method can be used in the same type of fruit trees, attached to different varieties of fruit trees, seedlings can be grafted with adult fruit trees, and the survival rate is higher, while branch grafting and bud grafting are often used.

By using branch grafting, the newly issued buds can be contacted in spring, and then cut directly, most of them are 1-2-year-old seedlings, while the bud grafting method is one-year-old seedlings, but the grafting time is mostly every autumn, and the "D" type grafting mode can be adopted.

Sowing and reproduction

Sowing and reproduction is the slowest way of reproduction, which is suitable for plants with fruit seeds, while fruit seeds are usually soaked before sowing for about a week, which can increase the germination rate, while the sowing time is spring. After that, it will cooperate with transplanting and other work to improve productivity.

[planting method of fruit tree seedlings]

1. Raising seedlings

Seedling raising, can cooperate with the reproduction mode of fruit tree seedlings, and then directly select seedlings with a height of more than 25 centimeters, and after proper heart removal, they can be transplanted, which can improve the robustness of seedlings, while the time of transplanting is early spring and autumn, and the selection of seedlings should be wrapped in soil. the root is protected by soil, and the crown shape of the seedling is more natural and consists of more mansheng branches and leaves.

two。 Trim the crown

In order to improve the robustness of the seedlings before transplanting, the crown will be recuperated, while the shape of the fruit tree seedlings is mostly cup-shaped, spherical or open, and at this time, less than 2 trunks will be reserved, and the excess branches need to be trimmed artificially. After about one year, the seedlings will show a fixed stem shape before transplanting, when the seedlings grow to 40 cm, and the excess branches and leaves can be trimmed manually. The sprouting and tillering branches attached to the trunk also need to be pruned, mainly in the natural crown type, which can not only improve the ornamental performance, but also enhance the germination rate and fruit rate.

3. Transplant

The transplanting of fruit tree seedlings is mostly for greenhouse and open-air planting, while there are many kinds of soil choices, such as sandy soil, acidic soil, alkaline soil and so on, while fruit trees can be decided according to varieties, and each plant needs to maintain a certain plant distance while transplanting. and can ensure the drainage performance of the plant. After planting and covering up with soil, it is necessary to pour enough water to prevent the wind from being dumped.

4. Fertilizer application

There are many kinds of fertilizers suitable for fruit tree seedlings, such as nitrogen fertilizer, phosphorus fertilizer, potassium fertilizer and so on. According to the particularity of fruit plants, base fertilizer can also be adjusted, and there will be the phenomenon of integration and dilution. On the other hand, the suitable fertilizer application amount, fertilization times and fertilization choices of fruit tree seedlings are different in seedling stage, growth stage, flowering stage and fruiting stage. Secondly, before and after fruit picking, additional fruit picking fertilizer should also be selected, which can occupy about 20% of the whole year.

5. Field management

Fruit tree seedlings, there will be diseases and pests hinder the growth of the phenomenon, so planting should pay attention to field bacterial infection, should avoid pests, secondly, should master familiar fruit tree seedling planting techniques, and can aim at a variety of diseases, with solutions. Secondly, in the period of more rainfall, we should also pay attention to their own field drainage, more use of gully, can avoid the phenomenon of root decay of fruit tree seedlings, but also enhance the drainage capacity.

6. Pruning

Fruit tree planting, pruning mostly for natural pruning, mostly refers to the removal of dead branches, rotten leaves, etc., to avoid infection, affecting the growth of the whole plant. Secondly, the pruning period is mostly autumn, and the late fruit harvest can improve the high yield in the coming year. Secondly, for the overdense branches and leaves, we can also carry out appropriate coring and pruning work, which can improve the lighting conditions of fruit trees, the branches are more robust, and when building, the strong branches at the front also need to be removed in time.

Summary: fruit tree planting methods and planting time are introduced as above, and the biggest enemies of fruit tree planting are a variety of pests, such as leaf rot, scale insects, red-necked longicorn beetles, tea-winged bugs, and so on. Therefore, during the fruit period, it is necessary to do a good job of daily nursing to avoid diseases and insect pests, but also to find diseases and insect pests and deal with them in a timely manner.

[more related information] Mao holly pictures, pictures of Parthenocissus, broccoli planting technology, dahlia language, plant anti-computer radiation sleeping lotus language

77 questions of Family Flower cultivation (4)

38. How to trim garden shrubs?

Shrubs in gardens can be divided into three categories: flowers, fruits and branches. Different pruning methods should be adopted according to different viewing purposes. Among the shrubs that mainly watch flowers, spring, forsythia, yellow thorn rose, bauhinia, cloves and so on are common in Beijing. Their flower buds are all formed on the branches of the previous year, so pruning should be carried out after flowering in May and June. Summer pruning is mainly thinning and shaping, cutting off cross branches, overgrown branches, dense branches, disease and insect branches and withered branches, in order to facilitate ventilation and light, so that nutrients can be concentrated; the residual branches after flowering can be shortened to promote their growth, so as to facilitate more flowering in the coming year. For summer flowering shrubs, such as rose, hibiscus, Chinese wolfberry, crape myrtle, they blossom on the new shoots issued in spring of that year, so pruning is carried out after defoliation in winter. Cut off dense branches, withered branches and branches of diseases and insect pests. When thinning branches, the residual pile should not be left too long. Generally, the upper incision should be cut from the branch point and cut at an oblique angle of 45 °. The incision should be smooth. Heavy pruning of weak branches and light pruning of strong branches. 4-6 buds can be retained on each branch, and the rest can be cut off. Shrubs that can observe both flowers and fruits, such as holly, honeysuckle, etc., should properly cut off some over-dense branches and branches of diseases and insect pests after flowering to make them ventilated and transparent to facilitate fruit. For some shrubs, such as Redwood, Diantang, etc., because they mainly watch their bright young branches, they can be re-cut every winter, leaving only 15 cm ~ 20 cm above ground, and the rest can be cut off to promote them to sprout more new branches in the coming year.

thirty-nine。 How to deal with the seeds before sowing?

General seeds, such as those of Begonia and impatiens, can be sown directly without treatment. Seeds with oil and wax in the outer shell, such as magnolia, can be mixed with plant ash and water into a paste before they can be sown. The seed coat of lotus and canna is hard, and the seed coat should be bruised before sowing, soak in warm water for 24 hours before sowing. The seeds of Prunus mandshurica are sown and watered before they are frozen in winter. the shell of the seeds is cracked in winter and can germinate every two years in spring. It is necessary to test the germination rate of all kinds of seeds before sowing. Generally, 100 seeds are soaked in warm water and put into a container covered with wet gauze and germinated at a temperature of about 22 ℃ to test the seed germination rate in order to determine the sowing amount.

For woody flowers with thick seed coat, it is generally necessary to destroy buds before spring sowing, so as to facilitate the emergence of seedlings quickly and neatly, and the seedling rate is high. The methods of water immersion and stratification are often used to promote bud. (1) sprouting by water immersion. There are three kinds of water temperature treatments: first, soaking seeds in cold water to accelerate germination, the water temperature is above 0 ℃, which is suitable for seeds with thin shell, such as wisteria, palm, wax plum, cedar and so on. Second, soaking seeds in warm water to accelerate germination, the water temperature is 40 ℃ ~ 60 ℃, which is suitable for peony, peony, bauhinia, maple poplar, Robinia pseudoacacia, Platycladus orientalis, Pinus elliottii and so on. Third, soaking seeds in hot water to accelerate germination, the water temperature is 70 ℃ ~ 90 ℃, which is suitable for seeds with hard seed coat, such as Acacia, Robinia pseudoacacia, camphor tree and so on. The amount of water used when soaking the seeds is about 3 times that of the seeds, and it should be stirred when the water is poured so that the seeds are heated evenly. When soaking the seeds in hot water, after the water temperature dropped to the natural temperature, stop stirring and soaking for 13 days. After the seeds were swollen by water absorption, they were removed and put into germination at the temperature of 18 ℃ ~ 25 ℃, drenched with warm water once or twice a day, and gently turned, and the seeds could be sown after the mouth was broken. (2) sprouting by stratification. The so-called stratification sprouting is a mixture of three parts of wet sand and one part of seed, and then refrigerated at the temperature of 0 ℃ ~ 7 ℃℃. Magnolia, Michelia, Magnolia, honeysuckle and seeds that germinate only the next year all need stratification to germinate. Here, the seeds that have been dormant for a long time or germinated every other year can be accelerated by variable temperature, that is, the germination can be promoted by keeping 25 ℃ ~ 30 ℃ in daytime and 15 ℃ at night after soaking seeds for about 10 ~ 20 days. Such as sweet-scented osmanthus, holly, coral trees, etc., can use this method.

forty。 How to carry out meristem reproduction?

It is called meristematic propagation that a small plant is isolated from the female plant or a bulb is isolated from the female plant and planted into an independent new plant. This method can be divided into two categories: ramet and ball.

(1) the method of dividing plants. The root tiller, stem tiller, sucking bud, walking stem and rhizome occurred on the mother plant were separated and cultivated into independent new plants. The period of ramet reproduction varies from flower to flower. Generally, those flowering in spring are ramet in autumn, and those flowering in autumn are ramet in spring. In autumn, the ramet should enter dormancy in the aboveground, and the underground part should be carried out in the active period, such as peony, peony, etc., and before germination in spring, such as Hosta, Iris and so on. Foliage flowers often use the method of dividing plants. The ramet time is generally from March to April in early spring. When dividing a plant, the persistent root flowers should first remove the persistent soil attached to the root, and then separate them sequentially according to the natural gap of the root with a hand or knife, so that each small plant after division has at least 2 or 3 buds; flowers and trees do not need to knock out the mother plant, they can dig up the soil with a flower shovel and dig out the young plants from one side of the rhizosphere. When ramet, the root system should be damaged as little as possible in order to survive.

(2) dividing the ball. This method is mainly used in the propagation of bulbous flowers. The time of dividing the bulb should be after dormancy, the bulb root can be dug out and separated from the mother plant and cultivated into an independent new plant. For example, the small bulbs of hyacinth usually occur around the base and can reach the size of the mother plant for about 4 years after being separated from the mother plant. A daffodil ball can grow into a big ball in three years. The big ball of tulip can form 2-3 small balls after 1 year growth, and the small ball can grow into large ball after 1 ~ 2 years growth. Gladiolus balls can form 1-4 big balls and produce many small balls after growing in one year.

forty-one。 What is the key to the survival of grafting?

The grafting method is that the branches or buds of the flower plants that need to be planted are artificially grafted on the stem or root of another flower plant, the grafted part is called the scion, and the grafted flower plant is called the rootstock. Grafting can be divided into two categories: branch grafting and bud grafting. This method can not only maintain the characteristics of the original variety, overcome the difficulty of reproduction by other methods, but also improve the resistance to adverse environmental conditions, promote or inhibit the growth of flowers and trees, and blossom and bear fruit earlier. This method is mostly used for woody flowers, and a few herbaceous flowers can also be used by grafting.

The key to the survival of grafting is:

(1) grasp the time of grafting. Generally speaking, it should be carried out when the sap begins to flow but the bud has not yet germinated, the branch grafting is mostly in early spring from February to March, and the bud grafting is mostly from July to August.

(2) scions and rootstocks should choose plants with close genetic relationship and affinity. Like plants of the family, privet is used as rootstock to graft sweet-scented osmanthus or cloves.

(3) 2012 seedlings or 1-year-old cuttings with vigorous growth should be selected for rootstocks. If the rootstock is older, it will affect the survival. One-year-old branches with good quality and strong maturity should be selected for scions.

(4) pay attention to the main points of operation when grafting. First cut the rootstock and then cut the scion (shorten the time of water evaporation); the tool should be sharp and smooth; the cambium should be aligned, the parenchyma cells should be tight, the joints should be tight, and the binding should be loose and tight.

(5) it should be checked in time after grafting. The living plants should be untied in time, otherwise the seedlings will be easily strangled and the normal growth will be affected. If new buds are found to have sprouted when grafted with the pile-up method, the mound should be removed immediately so that the buds will not turn yellow without sunlight.

forty-two。 How to carry out splicing propagation?

Splicing is a commonly used method of grafting, more than in spring. Generally choose the rootstock of 1 cm ~ 2 cm thick, truncate and flatten the incision at about 5 cm ~ 10 cm from the ground. On the smooth side of the rootstock, cut a straight and smooth incision about 2.5 cm deep between the xylem and phloem, then select the robust branches of the first year, and cut the middle of them into segments of about 5 cm ~ 10 cm, each with 2 to 3 buds as scions. Cut off one side of the scion, about 2 cm long, and a small cutting surface about 0.5 cm long on the other side to make it wedge-shaped, and immediately insert the large cutting face toward the xylem of the rootstock into the notch, so that the scion is closely connected with the cambium of the rootstock (at least on one side). After joining, hold the skin cut on the rootstock outside the scion, tie the interface from bottom to top with plastic strip (do not move the joint to prevent the two sides from staggering), and bury it with wet soil, and the mound should be about 5 cm higher than the scion.

forty-three。 What are the commonly used cutting methods?

Cutting propagation is a commonly used propagation method in flower cultivation at present. It is a method to cut the roots, branches, buds and leaves of flowers and trees and insert them into the matrix to make them take root and sprout and form new plants. This method is determined by the regeneration ability of various organs of various flowers and plants. According to the different cutting materials, it can be divided into the following three methods:

(1) branch cuttings. Also known as stem insertion. It is a widely used method to propagate a large number of seedlings. It is divided into hardwood cutting, softwood cutting and single bud cutting and so on.

(2) Root insertion. It is divided into root-burying method, direct insertion method and so on.

(3) Leaf cutting. It is divided into direct insertion method, flat method and so on. In addition, there are water insertion and so on.

forty-four。 How to carry on the branch cutting?

(1) softwood cuttings. Also known as soft wood cuttings. Rhododendron, camellia, sweet-scented osmanthus, rose, plum blossom, jasmine, rose, Phyllostachys pubescens, green apple, ivy and other flowers and chrysanthemums, geraniums, dahlias, clusters of red and other flowers, are often used in this method. It is carried out when the new shoots or branches are semi-mature, and the time is mostly in summer and autumn. Generally, the length of cuttings is about 5 cm ~ 10 cm, with 2 or 4 leaves at the top, and the cut at the lower end of the cuttings should be cut under the nodes, which is easy to take root. Using pure sand or vermiculite as cutting substrate, the depth of cuttings inserted into the substrate is about 1 ℃ 3 of the length of cuttings, spraying, watering and shading after cutting, and the temperature should be kept at 20 ℃ ~ 25 ℃.

(2) hardwood cuttings. This method should be carried out during the dormant period of the plant. Before deciduous flowers and trees sprout after falling leaves, and evergreen flowers and trees stop growing until the sap flows in spring. Yingchun, hibiscus, hibiscus, crape myrtle, oleander, Michelia, gardenia and so on are suitable for reproduction by this method. In the north, after defoliation in winter, the branches of the same year are cut and grown in a section of 20cm ~ 30cm, bundled and buried in wet sand to survive the winter, and cut in the open field in the following spring. Cuttings can also be cut in combination with pruning before sprouting in spring. The cuttings should have at least 2-3 buds, the cut should be smooth, the upper end should be cut into a horizontal plane, and the lower end should be cut into a bevel. Management with softwood cuttings after cutting.

(3) single bud cuttage. This method is to use one bud and one leaf for cutting, such as camellia, sweet-scented osmanthus, rubber trees and other flowers and trees, the cuttings are generally less than 10 centimeters, after cutting, special attention should be paid to water spraying, shading and wind prevention, so as not to lose water and affect survival.

forty-five。 How to improve the survival rate of cuttings?

(1) choose a good insert. The mother plant of strips should have the conditions of good quality, robust growth and free from diseases and insect pests. On the same plant, the sunny branches in the middle and upper parts of the year should be selected, with shorter internodes, stout branches and leaves and full bud tips. It is not suitable to choose the branches that are about to bloom and the branches that are about to grow. On the same branch, the middle and lower branches should be selected for hard branch insertion, and the tender head should be used for chrysanthemum and so on.

(2) the cutting substrate suitable for rooting should be selected. This kind of matrix should have the characteristics of easy to increase soil temperature, water retention, ventilation and so on.

(3) correct treatment of cuttings. The chemical treatment before cutting has the effect of promoting rooting. Soft branch cuttings are generally cut into a section 8 cm ~ 12 cm long, with 2 or 3 buds above, and the cut in the lower part of the cuttings should be 0.5 cm below the node. The incision should be smooth, cut off the lower leaves, leaving only 2 or 3 leaves at the top. The insertion depth is generally 3 cm.

(4) to create environmental conditions suitable for rooting. The suitable temperature for rooting of most flowers is 20 ℃ ~ 25 ℃. Tropical flowers require more than 25 ℃ ~ 30 ℃. Generally, the soil temperature is 3 ℃ ~ 5 ℃ higher than the air temperature. The relative humidity of the bed air is 80%-90%, which is beneficial to rooting. Soft wood cuttings require about 30% light. The moisture content is moderate, the cuttage is slightly larger at the initial stage and slightly dry at the later stage. Therefore, the suitable period of soft wood cutting in open field in North China and other places is from mid-June to mid-August, which coincides with the rainy season in North China, which can better meet the temperature and humidity conditions needed for cuttings to take root and is beneficial to the survival rate of cuttings.

(5) strengthen the management after cutting. Watering after planting, covered with plastic film and placed in a shaded place to prevent direct sunlight, but increasing light at night is beneficial to the survival of cuttings. Open the plastic film once or twice a day (if there is a small hole in the film, you don't have to open it) to replenish the oxygen needed and prevent the occurrence of germs. To often spray water, keep the inserting bed moderately moist, but do not spray too much water, otherwise the inserting bed is too wet, affecting cuttings healing and rooting; when the new root grows to 2 cm ~ 3 cm, it can be transplanted into the basin in time.

forty-six。 How to make flowers and trees that are difficult to take root take root?

It is difficult to promote the rooting of Milan, crape myrtle, honeysuckle, honeysuckle, sweet-scented osmanthus, camellia, rhododendron, magnolia and other flowers and trees, except for the use of growth elements such as naphthalene acetic acid.