MySheen

How to change potted plants? what about diseases and insect pests?

Published: 2024-11-08 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/08, Potted plants, this is a lot of friends like breeding, in the big city balcony only cultured potted plants, potted plants how to change pots? Potted plant diseases and insect pests how to do: potted plants how to change pots: potted flowers continue to grow, grow to a certain extent, there is not enough space in the flowerpot, you need to change pots

Potted plants, this is a lot of friends like breeding, in the big city balcony only cultured potted plants, potted plants how to change pots? What about plant diseases and insect pests in potted plants:

How to change pots for potted plants:

Potted flowers continue to grow, grow to a certain extent, there is not enough space in the flowerpot, it is necessary to change the pot. Just bought from the flower market potted flowers, many of its soil is a single ingredient or is not suitable for growing flowers, at this time also need to change pots, change nutrient soil. However, changing pots for potted plants is equivalent to operating on people, which is more or less damaging, so the frequency of changing pots should not be too frequent. Generally speaking, pots should not be changed more than twice in a year (except herbaceous flowers in 2012). In addition, pot flowering can not be changed, otherwise it will cause bud drop.

When changing the pot, first shovel down the edge of the pot with a shovel, pry the pot soil, and then turn the pot over and gently pat the pot wall to loosen the soil and break away from the pot. If the bottom of the flowerpot and the dirt stick firmly, you can use a stick to poke the tiles covered on the drainage hole at the bottom of the flowerpot to make the clod break away from the bottom of the pot. Get rid of some of the old soil and subtract the bad roots and old roots.

If the drainage hole at the bottom of the flowerpot is large, after the soil is taken out, cover the tile on the bottom drainage hole of the new flowerpot, but do not cover it tightly, leaving some gaps out. Sprinkle a layer of gravel at the bottom of the basin as a drainage layer to increase the drainage permeability of the bottom of the basin, and then sprinkle a thin layer of subsoil on the gravel, which can be made of garden soil and a small amount of fine sand. The purpose of spraying the bottom soil is to reduce the loss of base fertilizer from the drainage hole. Then, spread a layer of base fertilizer, generally use organic compound fertilizer, base fertilizer should be adequate. If flowers don't like fat, be careful with manure. After the base fertilizer is laid, it can be filled into the potted flower culture soil.

If the potted flowers are planted with soil, when the culture soil is filled to a certain depth, put it into the soil block, continue to add the culture soil, and then press the porcelain a little bit. If the flowers are bare roots, when adding to half of the soil, you should gently lift the flowers to make the roots stretch, and then continue to fill the soil and press it.

After changing the basin, pour a permeable water to make the basin soil fully absorb water. However, for succulent plants, it is not suitable to water the succulent plants after changing the pot. instead, the method of dry planting in wet soil should be adopted, that is, a small amount of water should be sprayed into the soil during filling to make the soil slightly moist (note that it is moist rather than moist), and then watered four or five days after changing the basin.

What about plant diseases and insect pests in potted plants:

1. Scale insects. It is easy to develop shell insects when it is poorly ventilated, which is characterized by the appearance of clumps of white hair like cotton, followed by oval worms the size of needles to grains of rice. The scale insect is a prick-sucking pest, and there is a layer of wax on the body surface, which can isolate the liquid, so the general stomach poison insecticide is ineffective to the shell insect. Insecticides containing wax-melting agents should be used to eliminate shell insects. I use plant insecticides. Scale insects are very easy to relapse, so the body and white hair should be removed, especially the scale insects hidden in the folds of leaves can be removed with brushes, probes and other tools. Another way is to use fire quickly. The white hair of shell insects is as flammable as catkins and can be burned with fire. I have used a lighter to kill shell bugs on pocket coconut trees, and the results are very good. But this method should pay attention to two points, one is to master the time of fire, a little longer time will burn flower leaves, and the other is that if this method is not used properly, it may cause fire, which can not be used by underage children.

2. Red spiders, aphids, whitefly. These pests do great harm to flowers, but common pesticides can kill them. My glass Cui and Dishui Guanyin have given birth to red spiders. As long as they are sprayed thoroughly, they can still be wiped out quickly.

3. Pests and flying black insects in potted soil. Such pests are often caused by the incomplete maturity of fertilizers in the soil. A very effective way to deal with these pests is to soak them in water with a handful of cigarette butts for a day, then filter them, add water to dilute them, and then pour them into flowerpots and water thoroughly. You can water it two or three times.

4. Earthworms. Earthworms are beneficial insects in farmland, but in flowerpots, earthworms will cause a large number of caves in the pot soil, and their feces will form hard soil balls, which will adversely affect the growth of plants. It is found that earthworms can be removed manually during basin change, or 500 times diluent of deltamethrin can be used to irrigate basin soil.

The method of changing pots for potted plants is introduced here. If you encounter diseases and insect pests, there are ways to deal with them.

How to prevent and control diseases and insect pests of potted aloe? Control methods of diseases and insect pests of potted aloe

How to prevent diseases and insect pests of potted aloe? Do you know all the prevention and control methods of potted aloe plant diseases and insect pests? Aloe is an evergreen, succulent herb, which is widely planted. The prevention and control of plant diseases and insect pests of potted aloe is the key. Then the editor will introduce you in detail the prevention and control methods of potted aloe diseases and insect pests.

Prevention and control methods of diseases and insect pests of potted aloe:

The common diseases of aloe include anthracnose, brown spot, leaf blight, white silk disease and bacterial diseases. For family potted aloe, disease prevention should be given priority to. Disease-resistant varieties and high-quality disease-free seedlings should be selected before the disease occurs, and its ornamental value has decreased. Before the occurrence of the disease, or after the diseased parts of the diseased plants were removed, 0.5-0.8 Bordeaux solution of lime combined with new high-fat membrane was applied to the leaves of aloe vera, which could effectively prevent and inhibit the invasion and spread of bacteria. Disease treatment. After the occurrence of the disease, it can kill the pathogen in aloe and control the spread of the disease by direct application of internal absorption and conduction therapeutic agents such as topirazine, pyrethromycin, and antibiotics such as streptomycin sulfate, agricultural streptomycin, chunramycin, Jinggangmycin and so on.

Propagation methods and pest control and cultivation techniques of potted aloe

How to raise potted aloe? Now many people like to raise a pot of aloe at home, so today the editor will introduce a key point of potted aloe cultivation techniques. Aloe likes high temperature and avoids stagnant water. the soil requires loose, fertile, breathable, water-retaining, fertilizer-preserving and well-drained sandy soil.

1 reproduction

(1) cutting propagation

It can be carried out in March to April in spring. The cuttings are 10 ~ 15cm long, cut flat with a sharp knife, remove the left and right leaves at the bottom, leave them in a dry place for 4 ~ 7 days, wait for the cut to dry, form a hard film, and then insert them into the coarse sand mixed with a small amount of culture soil. Cut deep into 2cm or so, keep the sand slightly wet, put it in a semi-shady environment, the cutting temperature is about 25 ℃ ~ 28 ℃, it can take root after 35 ~ 40 days, and then the light can be seen throughout the day, but it can not be directly exposed to strong light, and it can be planted in pot after two months.

(2) split root propagation

In March to April, the dense and rooted plants were cut open with a sharp knife and the main root, and a new basin was planted. There was no need to water in the first week, and then watered thoroughly after the wound conjunctiva. Manage the same adult plant.

1.1 up-pot management

The cuttage seedlings can be transplanted into the pot after two months, and the split root seedlings can be put on the pot directly. When planting, tile basin, purple sand basin and porcelain basin are the best choice. These pots have good air permeability and drainage, which are beneficial to the root growth of aloe. Before putting on the basin, the water content of the prepared basin soil should be adjusted well, with hand kneading into a ball and falling to the ground as the standard. When potting, the root system of the plant must be in close contact with the basin soil. after planting, the plant should not be watered within 2 ~ 3 days according to the temperature and humidity of the weather and soil, and spray water to the leaves with a spray can every day. It is advisable to water less at the beginning and thoroughly after 1 week. The size of the basin should have a corresponding proportion to the size of the aloe plant. The aloe just on the basin should not be exposed to direct sunlight so as not to lose water and excessive consumption of nutrients. It is appropriate to keep it in a semi-shady place and move it to the sun after it slows down the seedlings. Only after rooting can you shine more sunshine. Potted aloe can be planted in larger pots after being planted for 1 ~ 2 years.

1.2 watering

Aloe vera green before taking root should not be more watering, generally do not dry do not water, dry is thoroughly. After taking root, you can often spray water to the leaf surface, which can accelerate the return to green and take root. Improper watering of aloe or no watering for a long time will make the plant grow poorly and even die. Watering should be carried out according to the temperature and humidity changes of the weather. Low temperature should be less watering, high temperature should be watered more, watering 1 ~ 2 times a day in summer and once in spring and autumn. The basin soil is dry and watered. It is appropriate to keep the basin soil dry and wet. Spray water on the leaves every day to absorb water and maintain a certain amount of air humidity, which is beneficial to plant growth. Put it indoors in winter in the north, watering the basin soil less, once a week. But foliar spray is needed. It is necessary to keep the soil dry during dormancy, otherwise it is easy to rot roots and leaves in a low-temperature, shady and humid environment.

1.3 fertilization

Potted for a long time, the potted soil is lack of nutrients, so it is appropriate to soak and ferment with cake fertilizer and apply it to water. Inorganic fertilizer can choose urea, compound fertilizer, diammonium, potassium dihydrogen phosphate. In the growing season of aloe vera, liquid fertilizer was applied once every 15-20 days, 1 part of cake fertilizer fermentation broth was topdressing with water, and the concentration of urea and compound fertilizer was not more than 2%. Potassium dihydrogen phosphate was foliar sprayed with 0.1% concentration. In winter, especially when the temperature is low in the north, aloe stops growing without topdressing.

1.4 Lighting

When the light is sufficient, the plant is strong, the leaf is thick, the leaf color is dark green, and when the light is insufficient, it can also grow under shady conditions, but it is easy to cause overgrowth, make the plant thin, the leaf is thin, and the leaf color is light. Excessive sunlight will also lead to plant dormancy and slow growth, especially for newly planted seedlings, the leaves will turn purplish red and grow slowly under excessive light. The slow seedling stage can be shortened by properly shading the newly planted seedlings in production. The light is the strongest at noon in summer, which exceeds the range of the light saturation point of aloe. The sun can be shaded properly in production, so that the light intensity can be reduced to about 50% of the natural light. But avoid being too shady, otherwise it will cause the leaves to rot.

1.5 temperature

Aloe is a kind of temperature-loving plant, which is characterized by temperature-loving and cold-fearing. The most suitable growth temperature is 25 ℃ ~ 30 ℃. The growth stopped when it was less than 10 ℃. At 0 ℃ ~ 5 ℃, it would not cause frostbite, but it would weaken the growth of leaves, so it was easy to infect many kinds of diseases. At the same time, the root system rotted, and in severe cases, it would lead to death in a large area. When the temperature was lower than 0 ℃, the interior of aloe cells froze and the damaged parts wilted and died.

1.6 change the basin

The basin should be changed every 2 ~ 3 years. The basin change should be carried out in April in spring, and other seasons are also available, but it is easy to die if it is not managed properly. Changing the basin can change the larger basin, remove the outside of the root and the soil up and down, and remove the rotten root at the same time. Pot cushion tile, 2 ~ 3cm slag, stone, brick and so on as drainage layer, then pad 1 layer of culture soil, straighten the plant, fill with new soil around, gently compact, pour water once, and drip water slightly from the drainage hole [Jishan Huayao].

(2) Disease and pest control

2.1 Diseases

The common diseases in Zhuhai area of Guangdong are anthracnose, brown spot, leaf blight, white silk disease, rust, spot, root rot, white root disease, bacterial soft rot and so on.

① anthrax. It mainly harms the leaves, but the stems can also be damaged. It often occurs on the leaves with old age and wounds, which can cause the leaves to bend, dry and shrink, and affect the growth. Prevention and control methods: properly control the application of nitrogen fertilizer to avoid excessive watering. Aloe anthracnose is easy to spread to other plants, cut off the diseased leaves and focus on deep burial, cut off the diseased leaves had better be burned, a small number of disease spots can be locally removed, and then apply medicine to protect the wound. Diseased plants should be isolated from diseased ones. During the epidemic season, 50% thiophanate methyl 600 ~ 800 times, 50% mancozeb or 25% Spirulac 600 times were sprayed for 3 ~ 5 times, with an interval of 7 ~ 10 days.

② brown spot, also known as black spot. Damage to the leaves, in serious cases, the disease spots are dense, resulting in leaf rot. Control methods: select varieties with strong disease resistance, such as Aloe barbadensis, Aloe barbadensis, Aloe arborescens and so on. Fertilize and water scientifically and pay attention to the balance of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to prevent stagnant water. Spraying 77% of the wettable powder at the seedling stage can be protected by spraying once every 15-20 days and 3-4 times a year. The disinfection of seedlings and soil with Trichoderma and nano-silicon can effectively control the brown spot of aloe at seedling stage. It was found that the diseased leaves were cut off in time or taken out of the cultivation area and buried deeply, and sprayed with 75% chlorothalonil 600 times the liquid. Spray 3 ~ 4 times every 7 ~ 10 days.

③ leaf blight. Most of them produce small brown spots from the leaf tip or leaf edge, and then expand into semicircle dry, the disease spot shrinks, the center grayish brown, the edge has a water-stained dark brown ring, and the small black spots on the disease spot in the later stage are arranged in the shape of a concentric wheel. Prevention and treatment: spray 27% copper noble suspension solution or 1000 times Bordeaux solution and 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder solution at the initial stage of the disease. Spray 3 ~ 4 times every 7 ~ 10 days.

④ root rot. At the early stage of the disease, water-stained light brown disease spots appeared at the base of the seedlings, and gradually atrophied and brown rot around the stem. Prevention and treatment: at the initial stage of the disease, 400-fold solution of 20% chlorothalonil wettable powder, or 50% Likujing wettable powder, or 72% Kelu wettable powder 600-fold solution can be used to irrigate the root, once a week, continuously for 3-4 times.

⑤ white root disease. There is a white powder on the root of aloe vera. Control methods: dimethoate 1000 ~ 1500 solution can be sprayed every 3 ~ 5 days, continuous spraying 3 ~ 5 times.

⑥ bacterial soft rot. The damaged part is translucent and can expand rapidly, causing the whole leaf to rot, usually from the heart leaf and stem of the plant, causing the stem and leaf to rot into a pool of water. Control methods: remove weeds in the field in time, strengthen management, implement rotation system, avoid partial application of nitrogen fertilizer, try not to cause excessive wound when weeding, and spray 7.5% chlorothalonil wettable powder or 50% carbendazim wettable powder 500x solution or 50% carbendazim wettable powder solution every 7 ~ 10 days for 3 ~ 5 times continuously.

2.2 insect pests

Common pests are cotton bollworm, shell insects, red spiders, aphids, night moths and so on.

① cotton bollworm. Cotton bollworm (Helicoverpa armigera) is the most dangerous pest on aloe at present, which mainly bites on tender leaves and flowers, resulting in incomplete leaves and falling flowers. The method of control is to trap and kill adults with black light or poplar forest. Do a good job in the unified prevention and control of other plants around the planting area. Chemical control: in the larval initial egg stage, choose 40% omethoate EC 600 times, or 50% fenitrothion EC 1000 times, or 40% chrysanthemum EC 2000 ~ 2500 times, or 50% phoxim EC 1000 times, once a week, spray 3 ~ 4 times continuously.

② scale. The larvae of scale insects often stick to the back of the leaves, and sometimes occur on the front of the leaves. Prevention and treatment: 1000 times liquid spray can be diluted with 1605 EC. 50% phoxim can be used in seedling stage, diluted 3000 times liquid spray, once a week, continuous spray 3 ~ 4 times.

③ red spider. It is easy to occur in the case of drought, the severe period is from May to July, and it is also harmful from August to September. Red spiders usually occur on the back of the leaves, sucking aloe juice with stinging mouthparts, often causing leaves to change color or even curl. Control methods: during the outbreak of a large number of red spiders in May ~ July, 1000 ~ 1500 times of dimethoate can be sprayed every 3 ~ 4 days, 3 ~ 4 times continuously.

④ Noctuidae. Including Spodoptera litura, Spodoptera litura, Spodoptera litura and so on, the damage period is from June to September. The young larvae gnawed on twigs, tender leaves and epidermis, and the adult larvae ate a lot of food, which not only bit the leaves and twigs, but also hurt the young stem and gnawed on the old stem epidermis, affecting the ornamental value. Control methods: 80-1000 times of trichlorfon crystal or 80-1000 times of Lesbon can be used. The effect of spraying in the evening is better than that in the daytime, once a week, 3 ~ 5 times continuously.

The above is the whole content of potted aloe culture technology, friends who have cultivated aloe can learn more, and more planting skills of flowers and plants can be found in Huinong net!

 
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