Can I cut rose in October? there are several varieties of rose.

Rose this is very ornamental value, there are many people planted their own rose. Can I cut rose in October? How many varieties of rose are there?

Can I cut rose in October:

Rose cuttage can be carried out all the year round, but it is suitable for stem cutting in winter or autumn, and attention should be paid to water management and temperature control in summer. Otherwise, it is not easy to root, winter cutting is generally carried out in the greenhouse or greenhouse, such as open field cutting should pay attention to increase moisturizing measures, cutting is mainly divided into hardwood cuttings and green wood cuttings.

Cuttings are most suitable for rooting at 20-25 ℃, which can take root in about a month, cover with film moisturizing for about a week, leave 2 leaves at the top, and spray water twice a day when the leaves are dry.

It is best to use hotbed cutting propagation, watering through water with spray pot and rooting: put horse dung or leaves with febrile effect in hotbed, generally above 8 ℃ to heal rose and cuttage above 15 ℃ in spring or early summer or early autumn (I personally think early autumn cutting is the best)

There are several varieties of rose:

1. The ground is covered with Chinese rose

The number of flowers of Chinese rose is the largest among the varieties of Chinese rose, the number of flowers in each flowering period can reach 100, the height of Chinese rose is only less than 20 cm, but there are many sprouting branches, and its covering area can reach about 1 square meter. The Chinese rose is resistant to drought, high temperature and humidity, flowering in groups, and the florescence of the four seasons is continuous.

2. Peace rose

Among the varieties of rose, the peaceful rose was cultivated in France, which was the most remarkable variety of rose at that time, because at that time, people longed for peace, so this great variety of rose was called peace rose. The flowers of the peace rose are pure white, giving people a sense of holiness and beauty.

3. Red Hat Rose

Among the varieties of rose, red hat rose belongs to flower shrub, evergreen or semi-evergreen. Originated in Sichuan, Yunnan, Jiangsu and other places. Red hat rose flowers have a glossy surface, both sides *, petioles and leaf rachis scattered with spines. The red hat rose flowers are crimson, pink and nearly white, with a slight fragrance. The flowering period is in April and the fruit ripening period is from September to November.

4. Big flower perfume

There are many varieties of rose perfume, which is the main part of modern rose. It is characterized by strong plants, single or group flowers, large flowers, elegant and beautiful flowers, numerous bright colors, fragrant smell and strong ornamental. The varieties are mainly white, such as Ting Walter, Kennedy, Wedding White, first White, White Satin, Green Cloud, Tannick, White Christmas and so on. * Golden Phoenix, Ohio Gold, Gold Medal, Rhine Gold, Gold, Solido, Ono, Princess Cantor, etc. There are Blue Moon, Blue Peace, Sapphire, Blue Ribbon, Blue Flower, Blue Perfume, Blue River, Heaven and so on.

All right, that's all for the introduction of rose varieties. Rose can be cut in October.

Can I cut rose in October? when is the best month for cutting rose?

Rose is a kind of plant with high ornamental value, and it is easy to survive. Therefore, the seasonal effect of cutting rose is relatively small. So, can I cut rose in October? When is the best month for cuttage of rose?

Can I cut rose in October?

Rose cuttage can be carried out all the year round, but it is suitable for stem cutting in winter or autumn, and attention should be paid to water management and temperature control in summer. Otherwise, it is not easy to root, winter cutting is generally carried out in the greenhouse or greenhouse, such as open field cutting should pay attention to increase moisturizing measures, cutting is mainly divided into hardwood cuttings and green wood cuttings.

Growth conditions of rose

Cuttings are most suitable for rooting at 20-25 ℃, which can take root in about a month, cover with film moisturizing for about a week, leave 2 leaves at the top, and spray water twice a day when the leaves are dry.

It is best to use hotbed cutting propagation, watering through water with spray pot and rooting: put horse dung or leaves with febrile effect in hotbed, generally above 8 ℃ to heal rose and cuttage above 15 ℃ in spring or early summer or early autumn (I personally think early autumn cutting is the best)

The method of cutting rose

1. First of all, choose good branches-not too young branches, not too old branches. The branches of the same year with full growth, elasticity and ungerminated flower buds should be cut, the upper part is cut into a flat mouth, and the lower part is cut into a Mal shape (about 45-60 degrees) at the node 5-8mm with a sharp knife. The uppermost two leaflets were left in spring, summer and autumn, and the other leaves were removed.

2. Buy a little vermiculite (sold in the flower market) and put it in a small plastic basket with a thickness of 10-12 cm, which is as porous as a tofu drawer. Scrape it flat with a board or ruler, and you can cut it in the basket. The distance between plants is 5-6 cm and the depth is 3-5 cm. And pour water through it. Cushion the small basket with two bricks to facilitate drainage.

3. Put the cut rose in the shade or in the shade, and you can bask in the sun sooner or later. Spray water more times a day in the first 4-5 days, to protect the leaves from dehydration, it is better to see the continuous dripping under the basket. In the future, water can be sprayed once in the morning, in the middle and in the evening. Gradually reduce the number of water sprays until once every 3-5 days. As long as the temperature is right (between 15 and 28 degrees), most of them will form healing tissue and gradually take root. It is winter now, and temperature is the key factor. If it is at 20-28 degrees, it will take root in more than 10 days. It doesn't matter if the temperature is low, but it takes longer.

4. After rooting, the two leaves will fall off and the new buds will sprout. At this time, it can be moved to the sun, and after the new leaves turn green, 1/1000 potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed on the leaves to make the roots richer and stronger.

5. After the rose has survived, there is no need to rush to transplant. The survival rate is higher when the roots are aged and turned brown.

6. Conditionally, after the branches are cut off, they can be soaked in 1/1000 potassium permanganate solution for 5-10 minutes, which can not only disinfect, but also promote hairy roots. Of course, you can also dip in some rooting powder.

7. If the hole in the plastic frame is too large, lay a layer of nylon yarn on the lower part to avoid leaking vermiculite when watering.

Rose post-insertion management

1. If the weather is sunny and the temperature is high after insertion, the film at both ends of the seedbed should be opened at noon and ventilated. Otherwise, sunburn is easy to occur and a lot of people die at the beginning of spring. In the middle of November, seal the film.

2. After watering, removing the film and inserting the film, it will not be watered again. If the soil skin is white, you can sprinkle water properly.

A frozen layer is formed underground after winter, and the seedlings are not short of water. Observe the seedbed temperature when Rain Water and the Waking of Insects, and ventilate in time when it is higher than 20 ℃, otherwise it is easy to beaker seedlings. The film is gradually removed when the seedlings spread their leaves.

3, insecticidal in late March to early April, insert buds of about 1 cm, easy to be attacked by aphids, should pay attention to the prevention of aphids, can be fumigated with 80% dichlorvos, that is, 2 square meters to insert five cotton balls with medicine about 0.6 cm in diameter, removed in 2 hours. One week later, it was observed that if there were worms, they would be inserted again. At this time, special attention should be paid to insect pests, otherwise it will do great harm to seedlings.

A method of cutting rose to improve the survival rate below are two cutting schemes, the first is a pruning method to improve the survival rate, that is, the cuttings are cut off after a week. The second scheme is to use the pruned stumps for cutting, which is soaked in water and then trimmed into a suitable cutting method. (key hint: the rose branch that has just cut off the flower pedicel is not suitable for cutting, because it is too tender, easy to dehydrate and infection, and the survival rate is very low. It is now July, and the shoots sprouting from March to May are the most suitable for cutting. Even if the tender branches survive, the seedlings are also very weak, which is much slower than the general cutting seedlings. If you are not willing to cut other branches, you can cut off the pedicel and cut the cuttings 2-3 weeks later) (see that many people are ready to go to the park to pick flowers with knives, which is indeed a good way to increase the variety. Rose seedlings bought online are very expensive, and they may survive with money and effort, so this immoral behavior is fine. Try to pick some useless branches and don't damage other people's seedlings. Take two fresh-keeping bags, stuffed with wet paper towels, cut off the branches to remove leaves and excess parts, and put them into wet paper towels, so that the branches can keep fresh and avoid stabbing yourself in your pocket. ) the first plan: cut the cuttings after a week. 1. Choose the seedlings that are not too tender, nor can you use the branches that have been lignified. Choose the branches that are stout and dark green in color. The green part in the middle of the picture is suitable for cutting, the upper one is too tender, and the lower one is already brown, so it is not suitable for Lignification. 2. Circle the outer skin of about 0.2-0.3CM near the 1CM of the bud, and cut off the cuttage after a week. The survival rate is the highest. Because my rose is still in bloom, it is difficult to start, so I can only demonstrate it in pictures. To ensure 100% survival, you can refer to the high-pressure breeding method provided by other flower friends. In other words, it will definitely take root in the gap, but the disadvantage is that the high-pressure propagation method is only suitable for strong branches with a small number and slow speed, which is not as fast and simple as the cutting method, because the branches used for cutting can even be the remaining branches after pruning rose, which can reproduce dozens of seedlings at one time. The second plan: using the residual branches after pruning for cutting. the picture below shows the weak branches that are ready to be cut. Unless it is for commercial use or determination to do whatever it takes to reproduce, flower friends are usually reluctant to prune strong branches for reproduction. Weak branches and miscellaneous branches are more suitable for everyone to practice. Success is joyful, but it doesn't hurt to hang up. Summer is not suitable for cutting rose, high temperature and high humidity, and rose above 30 degrees is very difficult to sprout, and the bacteria in the soil will proliferate in large numbers at this time, so that the roots of the seedlings will be infected. 90% of the cuttings fail not to die in the sun. It is the result of pruning the branches and seedlings infected by bacteria in the soil. Remember to cut in water and keep the cut out of the water surface to avoid siphoning air into the water pipes of the branches. Because the branch does not metabolize by itself and cannot absorb water from the soil, this little water in the body is very important for its life support before it sprouts. The extra leaves need to be cut off, it would be better to keep a little, and it doesn't matter if there are no leaves. 3. There are 3 bud holes for each cutting branch, and there should be a bud hole at the bottom of each branch (the branch part is the most suitable for the bottom, which is easy to root). The cutting depth should not be too deep, otherwise the lower part will rot, if it is long between the bud nodes, the soil surface should be between the bottom and the middle buds, if the node is very short, the second bud just touches the soil surface. 4: add a little bit of matrix experience. Several experiments have been done during this period, and it is found that the survival rate of cutting with pure perlite is the highest. But the cost of perlite is higher after all, so I found a lower-cost material, which is the burned cinder (I believe it is easy to find, right? ), the cinder into pieces, and ordinary clean soil according to the amount of 1:1 to make cutting substrate effect is also good, because the cinder structure is loose, inside many holes, not only can store water to keep the soil moist, but also can avoid disk stagnant water and root corruption, but the above two substrates are almost no nutrition to speak of, seedlings should be transplanted to a suitable substrate after stable growth. 5. Immediately after the cuttings are watered, you can no longer touch the cuttings, and even if the small leaves grow in the tube, you can't touch it, because as soon as you touch it, there will be a gap between the bottom of the branches and the soil. Obviously, the living ones become dead (that's why some people say that the more concerned, the faster they die). 6. Cutting in spring and autumn, it doesn't matter if you put it in the open air. In summer, you should pay attention to avoiding the light. The sun can be seen before 10:00 in the morning sun. At noon and in the afternoon, you must move the plate to a shady place, otherwise it will become a firewood pole. Once the branches are wrinkled, they are basically hopeless. 7. Normal cuttings may stop growing after they have 2 Mel 3 leaves. Do not move them. This is the process of root accumulation. If the situation lasts for half a month or so, you can transplant with soil. The larger the area, the better. The roots of cuttings grow horizontally, and if they are too close, they will hurt new roots. 8. the transplanted seedlings are protected from strong light at noon, but they can be exposed to the sun sooner or later, and they can receive sunlight directly in the open air after about half a month. Because the questions asked by some people are all about the basic knowledge of plant growth, I would like to give you a supplementary lesson here. 1. Why does the cutting rose sprout first and then take root? The sprouting of cuttings is caused by the nutrition in the branches and has nothing to do with the roots. The buds produce growth hormone (indoleacetic acid), which is passed down to the bottom, inducing the wound at the bottom to heal and take root. this is a long process, the nutrition of the branches is limited, and there is not much hormone produced. The early sprouts and growth hormones use up almost all resources. In the future, the energy will be produced by the new leaves through photosynthesis, and the seedlings cannot move. Because the water needed for photosynthesis can only be exchanged by close contact with the soil at the bottom. This kind of situation is called "fake living". It is called real life only when the roots grow and sprout for the second time. Therefore, when we choose branches, we should choose sturdy and full branches. Because of insufficient nutrition accumulation and too much moisture, the over-tender branches are vulnerable to infection or dehydration, while the old branches have been completely Lignified and the buds have lost their activity. It's not easy to survive. 2. To what extent can it be transplanted? Cuttings will stop growing for a long time after sprouting, even for as long as 2 months. Don't apply fertilizer, but you can spray thin foliar fertilizer to nourish it every week. When it sprouts for the second time, it shows that the root has grown. Usually, the second bud will not blossom, and the root is still young and small, not enough to absorb enough moisture and nutrition to promote the flower, so it will stop growing again after growing a few leaves, and this is the right time to transplant. Try to bring soil when transplanting, we should remember that without soil, it takes a period of time for seedlings to grow normally. 3. Why does the ring peeling method have a higher survival rate? The structure of the branch is mainly divided into two parts: the inner wood and the outer bark. Water and trace elements are absorbed by the roots and transported upward through the internal woody pipes, while the nutrients produced by the leaves through photosynthesis are transported downward from the outer bark. The ring is to cut off the downward delivery of nutrients, allowing nutrients to accumulate at the fracture and merge ahead of time to produce connective tissue. When cuttings are cut into the soil, they avoid the risk of infection by soil bacteria (the infection begins with the outer skin), and they are nutritious and sprouting quickly. Theoretically, the longer the stopping time after capping, the more nutrients accumulated, but it cannot be extended indefinitely. 1When cutting within 3 weeks is the most suitable, because when the plant does not receive nutrients from the intercepting branches for a long time, it will think that the stem is aging or close to death, no longer or reduce the upward supply of water and other elements, and transfer to other places to accelerate the initiation of new buds, such as the lower half of the branches. Therefore, the stopping time after encircling should not be too long, otherwise the moisture nutrition will be less and less, and photosynthesis and new bud initiation will consume a lot of nutrients, and strong branches will become weak branches. 4. Why do some people wrap around the skin and wrap it in mud? Bubble mud is the method of high-pressure reproduction. Continue the above topic. When the branch receives less and less nutrition from the root, it must save itself. Callus has already grown on the fracture. As long as there is a suitable environment, it can take root and absorb what it needs. Moist soil is the suitable environment for rooting. So the high-pressure method is the "cuttage" on the tree, and the survival rate can reach 100%. The disadvantage is that the number of reproduction is small, the time is long, it is suitable for family use, and it is not suitable for mass reproduction such as flower fields. Experience of cutting rose 1. Cutting with river sand is easy to succeed (key) because rose seedlings can not be too wet or too dry, which is the key for people like me who can't control moisture. Although, if you use sand and water too much, you will flow out by yourself, but Xiaomiao also doesn't like to be soaked in water every day. It is also the key to control yourself. Second, if you want to succeed, you should bear the word first. Hold back, don't pour too much water! 2 hold back, don't pull it out and look! After cutting, it may continue to sprout and grow leaves, but that is consuming the nutrients of the original branches, because it has not yet taken root and cannot provide enough nutrition for a long time. Once consumed, it will only dry up and die. So, don't choose branches that sprout too much. Generally speaking, there is no change after a month or so of cutting. maybe you will think: why not long? Is there something wrong? Has it taken root yet? I really want to pull it out and see what's going on! But in order to ensure that it can survive, you'd better endure it, do not be too curious, do not worry too much, as long as the branches are still green, it means that at least it is still alive. It's just that it is tenaciously fighting against fate, adapting, recovering, and trying to take root, so it doesn't bother to sprout, as long as we don't disturb it. 3 hold back, stop moving around to find a better "environmental location" for it! Third, branch selection is very important (key) fourth, the best cutting season is spring, autumn and winter, because rose is a temperate flower, afraid of heat and cool, let's do what it likes. Fifth, to ensure that it has at least 2 months to take care of it is very simple, it can not be too dry, and about 2 months after insertion should appropriately increase the light-- to see the sun before 9: 00 in the morning and after 5: 00 in the evening, and all these need to be judged by you. If you think it can't stand the sun, it should avoid it. You can't leave too many leaves, nor can you do without a leaf. It is best to leave mature leaves with a strong green color, which can ensure the nutritional supply of rooting and sprouting in the future. 7. Change the pot only after sprouting and starting to grow new leaves. About two and a half months after insertion, it has survived and has grown more fibrous roots, so it is no longer afraid of small injuries, but you should still be very careful when you move the basin, so as not to seriously injure the hard-growing roots when changing the basin. 8. Slow the seedlings in a cool place for 7 to 10 days, let the newly survived seedlings adapt to the new basin soil environment, and then enter the normal management and maintenance to let it thrive. The new plant of OK has propagated successfully (transferred from the foolish son who loves to eat fish)