How to fix the problem of yellow and black leaves?

Yellowing leaves are very common problems, pay attention to the usual care. What if the leaves turn yellow and black? How to solve the problem of falling leaves:

What if the leaves turn yellow and black?

1. Proper watering

Great rock tung should pay attention to less watering, not dry do not water.

In winter, when pittosporum gloeosporium enters dormant period, watering can be stopped.

Do not water the leaves. There are hairs on the leaves of globetree. Watering will cause water stains and rot.

2. Absorb sufficient scattered light

Place the pittosporum in a place where it can absorb scattered light, but avoid direct sunlight. If it is winter seedling stage, it should be fully exposed to sunlight.

3. Clean leaves after fertilization

After each fertilization, wash the leaves with clean water and wipe them off immediately to avoid leaf decay.

How to solve the problem of big paulownia falling leaves:

1. Too much watering requires high humidity in the air, but does not like water. Uneven watering and excessive dampness of paulownia will cause leaves to yellowing and rot. Solution: paulownia should pay attention to less watering, basin soil can not be watered, winter plants gradually enter dormancy to completely stop watering, in addition, can not water the leaves, in case there are water stains, causing leaves to rot and fall.

2. Too little light

Paulownia is a semi-negative plant, but it also needs sunlight, and its leaves will turn yellow and fall if it is not exposed to sunlight for a long time.

Solution: usually put the big paulownia in a place that avoids exposure to strong light but can provide enough astigmatism, and if it is the seedling stage in winter, you should accept sufficient sunlight to make the seedlings grow more healthily.

3. Improper fertilization

Paulownia is very fat, but there are many velvety hairs on the leaves, which will cause the leaves to rot and fall when fertilizing.

Solution: after each fertilization, spray water once to keep the leaf surface clean, but also pay attention to that there can be no water stains on the leaf surface.

Paulownia is a kind of flowerpot plant that is easy to feed, but we should also pay attention to the details of culture so as not to cause the leaves to yellowing and rot and affect the ornamental value of paulownia.

Now you know how to deal with the disease.

What if the big paulownia flower grows bugs? find vinegar for spraying / shell insects in time.

Paulownia flower, now one of the most popular indoor potted flowers, it has large and green leaves, bright flowers, long flowering period, has a strong ornamental value. However, when it is cultivated indoors, it is vulnerable to all kinds of insects, which will seriously affect the beautiful image of Dayantong. So what should we do if the big paulownia flowers grow into worms? Today, the editor is here to solve this problem for everyone.

First, what to do when the big paulownia flowers grow worms, to determine the insect pests

As a common ornamental flower, the culture method of paulownia flower is not difficult, but in the process of culture, it is vulnerable to shell insects, thrips, red spiders, inchworm and other insects, which will seriously affect the ornamental type of the plant. As for what to do when the big paulownia flower grows bugs, we need to determine which kind of bug it is, and then solve the problem.

II. Insect pests and control methods of paulownia

1. Scale insects

One of the insect pests of paulownia flowers, it has many species and looks similar to nymphs. It mainly harms young leaves and sucks the sap of flowers, resulting in yellowing of paulownia leaves. When serious, the branches and leaves are covered with shell insects, resulting in the death of the whole plant.

Prevention and control methods: when there are few shell insects, wash them off with water in time, or wipe the diseased plants with vinegar, alcohol, washing clothes, etc., the effect is good; when there are many shell insects, you also need to use 550% marathon, 40% dimethoate 0.1% solution and so on spray, spray a few more times can be completely killed.

2. Thrips

Thrips is a common pest of paulownia. Its length is small, the larvae are white, yellow, or orange, and the adults are yellow, brown or black. It mainly harms leaves and flowers, causing leaf deformities and maculae. In severe cases, the plant will stop growing.

Prevention and control methods: once thrips are found, it is best to spray 50% phoxim emulsion 1200-1500 times to control them, once a week, several more times in order to completely eliminate thrips. In addition to the usual maintenance of paulownia flowers, we should pay attention to timely cleaning of thrips host plants, such as some weeds and so on, have a good preventive effect.

3. Red spider

Red spider is also one of the pests that invade the big paulownia flower, its individual is very small, less than one millimeter, so it is difficult to be found. The insect pierced the leaves with mouthparts to suck the juice, which destroyed the chlorophyll of paulownia flowers, causing the leaves to become withered and yellow, or even fall off.

Control method: when the color of the leaf is abnormal, pay more attention to observe the back of the leaf, and find that there are red spiders in individual leaves, which should be removed immediately. When more leaves are damaged, spraying should be carried out as soon as possible, such as propargite, triclofenac, dimethoate, Huachongjing, quick killing and so on.

4. Inchworm

In addition to the above three kinds of insects, inchworm is also one of the pests harmful to paulownia. The insect generally appears in the growing period of Caulownia flower, as long as it harms the leaves, causing the plant to slow down or stop growing, or even lead to plant death.

Control method: the size of inchworm is relatively large, once found, it can be killed by population. In addition, in the initial stage of plant maintenance, carbofuran should be buried in the basin soil for prevention.

Generally speaking, the effect of the big paulownia flower is good, and it is easy to raise, so it is very suitable for raising indoors. But once it is neglected to manage, it will be targeted by diseases and insects, thus seriously affecting its ornamental. Therefore, for the sake of the health of paulownia flowers, we must raise them carefully. With regard to the big paulownia flower worms, the editor has introduced this, hoping to bring help to everyone.

How to cultivate lilies how to teach you how to cultivate potted lilies like thousands of creatures, lilies want to thrive and eventually produce beautiful flowers, the most fundamental conditions are: the quality of the ball itself is good, the environment is suitable, and management keeps up. And from the planned planting to the final flower withering, you should always care about her and carefully manage the lilies, so as to ensure that the lilies are as you wish and pleasing to the eye. As for whether we can make money, we still need to see whether the market can help, but the flower friends are self-appreciating, which is not within the scope of this article. 1. Successful ordering of high-quality seed balls is the foundation of successful planting. However, because the ball is not an industrial product, it is a crop, and it is an imported product, facing various national quality inspection requirements, there will always be various problems. No matter which company, at home or abroad, is sure that there is no problem with our order (supply, supply quality), it must be a liar. Such being the case, we can only choose reliable suppliers to reduce the probability of problems with planting balls.

High-quality lily bulbs: a common problem with strong, clean, well-rooted lily bulbs is Penicillium infection (pictured below). If the infection does not endanger the base plate of the bulb, it is not a big problem.

Freezing injury-the buds of the bulbs turn black (as shown in the following picture). If they are serious, they can only be scrapped.

2. Environment: the common slogan is "grass has life". I remember that a Dutch expert also said, "if you can drink water, it can also drink; where you can live, it can also." Grass also has life, tells the true meaning, you must be like your own baby, to touch it, to feel it, and then change its environment at any time, it can repay you with beautiful flowers. 1) soil: soil structure: although all soils, lilies can grow. However, it is very important to ensure that the cultivated soil has a good structure and good drainage throughout the growth stage. Poor soil structure and consolidation often make lily roots grow fragile or even die due to lack of oxygen, or due to poor drainage, resulting in the death of lily roots caused by Pythium, resulting in poor growth or even death of lilies. The picture below shows the death of the roots due to the lack of oxygen due to the heavy rain during the typhoon. Of course, the soil is too hardened and the situation is more and more serious.

Soil pH and salinity: maintaining a proper soil pH is very important for the root development and correct nutrient absorption of lilies. If the pH value is too low, it will lead to excessive absorption of mineral nutrients (such as iron, manganese, aluminum), while too high pH value will lead to insufficient absorption of phosphorus, manganese and iron. We all know that the deficiency is bad, but we may not know it all if we go too far. 100 contract is sensitive to salt, too high salt will form hard, fragile and yellowing, brown roots, reduce the absorption of water by the roots, affect the quality of lilies, and even cause the death of lily roots and lily plants. Soil salinity is often affected by the fertilizer and moisture used. The following picture used to be a very beautiful root system, but it is a pity that some or all of the roots died due to the use of immature organic fertilizer.

Soil pathogens: lilies often cause plant death due to soil fungi harming their roots. The common fungi are Rhizoctonia, Pythium and Phytophthora. Rhizoctonia is harmful only when the buds are still in the soil, and Pythium can be mitigated by improving soil drainage. Generally speaking, it is necessary to use broad-spectrum fungicides several times in the whole growth process, such as chlorothalonil and so on. The following picture shows the damage caused by Rhizoctonia and Phytophthora.

From the above, we can see how critical the suitable soil is to the success of cultivation. If the soil is not good, no matter how much energy you put into it, you can only treat each other with tearful eyes. Therefore, it is best to choose soil that has not planted lilies before to grow lilies, of course, the most ideal is to choose peat (domestic peat), in order to reduce the difficulty of management, it is very wise to use 80% peat and add 20% perlite or loose scale medium. If taking into account the base fertilizer, the use of controlled release fertilizer is the most ideal, if you have a preference for organic fertilizer, please be sure to use rotten organic fertilizer.

With such a good root system, why not have beautiful lilies? 2) temperature rooting period temperature: 2-3 weeks after planting, it is very important to maintain an appropriate low temperature (10-12 degrees) to ensure that lilies can grow good stems and take roots. However, most of the time, we can not guarantee such ideal weather, so professional growers use cold storage to take root, and we can use the fresh-keeping layer of the refrigerator to put the lily bulb with peat (peat is not too wet. It is a good idea to wrap (breathable) in the fresh-keeping layer of the refrigerator. Although the low temperature will prolong the growth period, I think you should not mind managing it for a few more days.

In the case of rooting, in the hot season, it takes root first and is planting. Temperature during the growth period: although the ideal temperature for lilies is 15-25 degrees, there is no way to control the temperature of nature, but in extreme cases, we still have to avoid it. Lilies are prone to frost injury when they are below 5 degrees, and higher than 35 degrees. The growth period will be greatly shortened, and the quality will decline accordingly. In summer when the sun is strong, we can reduce the temperature by shading and strengthening ventilation. How comfortable it will be to enjoy a cool breeze in the shade of trees in summer. 3) relative humidity: the appropriate relative humidity of lily should be between 70-80%, but this is for professional producers to produce in greenhouse. There is no need to consider that lilies are planted in the yard or on the balcony. In greenhouses, poor growth is often caused by high humidity, but it has not been seen that even continuous rain leads to poor growth of lilies outdoors (provided that the soil is well drained and fungicides are often used to control Botrytis cinerea), of course, slight effects will still be encountered. This is because the ventilation in the greenhouse is not ideal, people will feel very stuffy when they go in, and plants will feel the same way. Give some pictures of the damage to lily leaves caused by high humidity in the greenhouse.

Because the humidity is too high, the water pressure in the plant is too high, and finally the leaves are damaged due to the rupture of the cell wall, and the serious buds are gone; this is a physiological disease, not a bacterial hazard, and fungicides are useless. The use of calcium fertilizer can increase the resistance of cell wall and reduce the harm.

Because of the long-term overcast and rain, the leaves of the plants are very tender, and because the plants have to remove too much water from the body, the stomata of the leaves are always open and open for a long time, so that the stomata of the leaves eventually lose the function of closing (originally they will open-close and adjust by themselves according to climatic conditions). After the overcast and rain, the stomata of the leaves still open for transpiration and drainage, resulting in the loss of water and paper, and even scorching of the leaves. 4) shading: shading can control temperature, relative humidity and light. In summer, the sun is usually so strong that 80% of the light can be obscured 2-3 weeks after planting (before budding). After budding, because Asian lily and LA hybrid lily are sensitive to light, lack of light will lead to bud elimination, which can be appropriately less shaded, such as 50% shading, oriental lily is insensitive to light and can still cover 50-70% of the light. General links of family potted lilies: 1. Preparation: 1) cultivation medium: it is suggested that we should choose peat soil as the main medium to plant. 2) Fertilizer: it is recommended to mix 3 kg of 14-14-14 slow-release fertilizer and 0.5 kg of calcium nitrate as base fertilizer per cubic meter. 3) pots: 13 cm pots can plant 3 12-14 cm balls; 15 cm pots can plant 3 12-14 14-16 cm balls; in this way, choose the basin according to your own situation. The best height of the basin is more than 12 cm; 2. Receive the lily ball: after long-distance logistics, when we receive the lily ball, it is thawed. Normally, there should be a little small bud, as long as the length of the bud is not more than 5 cm, and it is not broken, then even the curved bud does not have any problem, please rest assured to plant boldly. If you receive the ball, you can soak it in 600-800 times of chlorothalonil for 30 minutes. 3, seed: 1) first stir the medium and base fertilizer evenly, water until the hand can drop water; 2) spread 2-3 cm stirred medium at the bottom of the basin; 3) put the ball bud head outward, plant in the basin; 4) cover the ball with a medium of about 8 cm; 5) pour water thoroughly and place it in shade to avoid sunlight as much as possible. 4, it is recommended that the planting quantity in each pot is 1, 3, 5 balls, the odd number is better, if more than 5, the odd and even numbers do not matter. In the temperature from June to July, buds can be seen in 7 days. 1. Medium: peat soil

2. Fertilizer: controlled release fertilizer calcium nitrate

3. Basin: 160 two-color basin, planting 3 balls

4. Seed 1) the correct planting method: the bud head of the ball rests against the basin wall.

Incorrect planting method: the ball bud head rests to the middle, and the consequence: the buds are all concentrated in the middle, which is not good-looking.

Of course, if you plant at will, when the buds grow, it will be very disorderly and unattractive. As for potted plants, it is best to wait for the ball to have a 3-5 cm bud, so that the orientation of the bud can be controlled, so that the overall appearance of the plant is better. What is the growth environment after planting? Two weeks after planting, lilies still need relatively low temperatures to continue to have good roots, so potted lilies can choose places where there is no direct sunlight; lilies planted in open fields can use sunshade nets to block direct sunlight. However, whether it is potted or cultivated in the open field, after the lily sees the bud, the lily should see the light immediately, the potted plant can be moved to a place with sufficient light, and the sunshade must be removed in the open field, otherwise, it will affect the number of buds and the quality of flowering of lilies, especially Yabai, which is more sensitive to light and when serious, the buds all fall off. Proper topdressing can make the stems of lilies stronger, especially in hot summer. However, it should be noted that the concentration should be lighter than usual, so as not to cause fertilizer damage. Topdressing can also choose high-potassium lily special fertilizer 15-15-30 to mix with water, the concentration of 1000-1500ppm, that is, 1 gram of water-soluble fertilizer added to 1-1.5 liters of water, mix evenly. The characteristics of each variety are different, and the time of flowering is also different. But the temperature will also affect the flowering sooner or later. For the regular flowering time of specific varieties, please see the product information of each variety. Here, I would like to remind the northernmost friends that if the temperature is below 10 degrees at night, please move the lilies indoors at night. Generally speaking, the time from rooting to flowering of Dongbai is about 100 days, while that of Yabai is only about 60 days. Therefore, when flower friends choose varieties, please choose varieties according to local climatic conditions and their own conservation conditions, so as to avoid being frozen off at the moment of flowering, and it is a pity that previous painstaking efforts have been wasted. Note: 1. As mentioned earlier, "it is a good idea to use the fresh-keeping layer of the refrigerator to wrap the lily seed ball with peat (peat is not too wet." it is a good idea to take root in the fresh-keeping layer of the refrigerator. 2-3 weeks of rooting period, so from the freezer temperature of 5 degrees, when taken out, the outside temperature is at least 25 degrees, can you adapt? Answer: yes, professional lily cut flower producer, take out the lily ball after rooting in the cold storage, and the temperature in the greenhouse is as high as 40 degrees. However, please pay attention to shading in the early stage, and reduce the degree of shading after budding. If shading has been re-shaded up to 80%, Asian lilies may lose buds due to lack of light. 2. How to plant a ball after flower failure? after flower failure, please cut off the remaining flowers. Of course, the stems and leaves are preserved. At the same time, please maintain normally, usually in the low temperature season (November-December), the aboveground stem will die, the ball is in the ground, at this stage, please reduce the use of water and fertilizer, after the beginning of spring, as long as the ball is not rotten or eaten by worms, will grow and blossom again. Plant lilies in the yard, you can not care about it, the next year it will grow out well, can be year after year, and there will be more and more lilies. 3. Send some pictures of lilies planted in pots from abroad.

How ★ potted lilies belong to cool flowers, that is, areas with cool climate and large temperature difference between day and night are most suitable for growing lilies. The lily does not have the brown old skin outside the tulip bulb and must be kept at a constant temperature of 2 degrees before it is planted in the soil, otherwise it will quickly take root and rot easily. So after we buy lily bulbs from the market, we must plant them as soon as possible, not for long. First, be ready to plant the ball with buds above and roots below, so don't turn it upside down! Some balls have not yet grown roots, it depends on the scale opening upward is the bud! Seed balls should be disinfected before planting, soaked in imported carbendazim 1000 times solution for 20 minutes, washed with clean water, and then can be planted after drying.

Second, the prepared soil and pot lily like the sandy soil with good fertility, water retention and drainage. Peat: River sand: perlite = 2:2:1, you can also use cactus soil, but you can't use clay anyway. Because lilies belong to bulb flowers with two layers of roots, the container should be selected in a deeper basin.

Third, planting first put 10-15 cm of soil at the bottom of the basin and put the ball. If there are three heads in a pot, the head of the ball will be placed toward the edge of the flowerpot, that is, tilted to the edge of the pot, so that the plants can be evenly distributed after germination. Cover the top of the ball with soil of about 5 cm, pour water thoroughly and leave it in a cool place for 1-2 days.

Fourth, conservation moisture: keep the soil moist, spray water twice in the morning and evening during the period from bud to flowering. In addition, 1000 times of imported carbendazim solution is used to irrigate twice a month. Fertilization: fertilization is usually applied once a month.

Lily cultivation common problems 1, leaf burning causes: physiological calcium deficiency caused, occurrence conditions: heavy shade, poor ventilation, air humidity, continuous cloudy days, low soil pH, poor plant roots and other circumstances easy to occur preventive measures: improve ventilation conditions, increase plant water transpiration. Appropriate advance lighting, seedling refinement. Rooting treatment and replanting are beneficial to root development and calcium ion absorption. Defoliation (separating tightly held leaves) just before leaf burn can also reduce leaf burn. Keep dry and avoid standing water on the plant for a long time. Apply calcium fertilizer such as calcium nitrate, which can be applied by root fertilization or foliar fertilization.

2. Causes of root burning: The salt concentration of the soil solution is too high A. The soil itself is seriously salinized and the EC value is too high; B. Improper fertilization, excessive fertilization at one time, resulting in too high a concentration of soil solution; C. Insufficient moisture, too dry soil, will also cause the concentration of soil solution to increase. Preventive measures: Do not choose soil with too high salt content; Do not directly put substrate or fertilizer with high salt content on the seed ball; Use thin fertilizer and frequent application method to avoid using a large amount of fertilizer at one time, resulting in root burning; Check the root system frequently. If root burning occurs, water it timely and spray foliar fertilizer.

3, high temperature has a serious impact on lily, should try to avoid high temperature, including soil, environment and other high temperatures, more than 30 ℃ are called high temperature.

4. Common yellow leaves

5, epidemic prevention measures: A, to prevent the main, to avoid soil moisture continues to be too high (especially to avoid flooding) and air humidity is too high, try to avoid air humidity above 90%. B. Disinfection of soil and seed balls before planting, such as dixon, ethyl phosphorus, aluminum manganese zinc, hymexyl, etc. C. Avoid continuous cropping with common pathogenic host crops, such as continuous cropping with Gypsophila paniculata, carnation, solanaceae, melon and other vegetables. Namely: kind of Gypsophila paniculata, carnation, solanaceae, melon soil try to avoid re-planting lily. 6. Root rot prevention measures: control soil moisture seed ball, disinfect soil with carbendazim, dixon, hymexyl, etc. Reduce nitrogen fertilizer use, especially ammonia nitrogen, and appropriately increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.

7. Preventive measures for Fusarium stem rot: seed balls and soil disinfection before planting; reduce soil temperature

8, gray mold-avoid continuous high humidity environment

9. Blind flower (no flower) Cause of blind flower: A. Insufficient water and fertilizer supply: Lily is a flower variety that needs more water and fertilizer supply. In the early stage, it mainly depends on the nutrition supply of seed ball to grow plants, and in the middle and late stage, it mainly depends on fertilizer and water supply and photosynthesis to maintain plant growth. If the water and fertilizer supply is not good, it will seriously affect the growth and development of lily, resulting in thick branches, thin plants, heavy ones resulting in blind flowers and buds. B, too high temperature: too high temperature will seriously affect the quality of lily: lily likes cold climate, too high temperature, too fast growth, less accumulation of substances in the plant, more consumption of organic matter, it will cause malnutrition, heavy caused by blind flower bud. C. Insufficient light: insufficient light, too dense planting, poor ventilation, affecting the photosynthesis of plants, less substance accumulation, easy to cause thin plants or even buds. Especially OT type lily is sensitive to light, and bud is easy to disappear under insufficient light. D. Insufficient seed ball nutrients: too small seed ball specifications, too early seed ball harvest, too long storage time, will also make seed ball nutrients insufficient, easy to cause lily blind flowers and buds. E, cultivation depth is too deep: planting too deep, causing lily to emerge slowly, will consume a large part of the seed ball nutrition, so that the plant nutrient deficiency, poor growth, heavy caused by blind flowers. F. Poor root growth of lily: Lily root system is not good, absorption capacity is insufficient, resulting in insufficient nutrition of plants, insufficient nutrition for flower bud growth, inhibition of flower bud growth, blind flowers and bud drop.

★ Lily variety selection and planting methods I. Basic introduction Lily difficult to raise? In fact, otherwise, I am a bulbous fan. The order of cultivation for many years is easy to maintain: (Common questions in parentheses) Storm orchid> Red (expensive ah...)= Freesia (Lodging)= Saffron (Degenerate)> Lily (De-budding)> Narcissus (De-budding)> Hyacinth (De-budding)> Tulip (De-budding)> Ranunculus (De-budding)> Anemone (It has been rotten from the beginning) There are too many varieties of sorrel to say. Some are as easy to raise as grass, while others are god-level hard-to-raise pittosporum and cyclamen. They are better raised as herbs. They are not included in the ranking. The popularity of bulbous iris is not high, nor are they included in the visible. Lily is not only suitable as a cut flower in a flower shop. As a family potted plant, perennial plants in the courtyard are very good. In fact, most of the hybrids of lily come from China. They are out-and-out Chinese flowers. It is very suitable for our climate (except Dongbai from Japan). LA> A> L = LO> OT> O LA is the improvement of A> L> L = LO> O LA is the improvement of A> L> O LA is the improvement of A> L> L> The first two kinds of strong fragrance, Dongbai is flower lily flavor, OT some sweet some choke, LO is iron cannon and Dongbai mixed smell, hot day aroma is very weak. 1. Lily flowers are generally 1 - 2 days after opening, the fragrance is the heaviest, and then gradually fade. It is normal that they are not very fragrant when they first bloom. 2. Lily flowers are not harmful to the human body, nor will they cause allergies. However, if the fragrance is too strong, it may stimulate the olfactory nerves of sensitive people and cause dizziness, excitement and sleeplessness. 3. Lily pollen is easy to stain clothes and skin. Do not wash with water. It will stick more firmly. It should be stuck with transparent tape. Asiatic lily advantages: many flowers, high plants, many flower buds, flowers upward, early flowering (2 - 3 months from next planting), easy to cultivate, fast reproduction, extremely cold (Northeast can open the winter) Disadvantages: small flowers (12 - 15 cm), no fragrance, high light requirements during bud pregnancy, insufficient light is easy to eliminate buds Representative varieties: Many, most can be assured of selection, there are plant height of about 20 - 30 cm pot seed Yabai spring field pot effect, pot diameter of 15 cm, the right side of the results of CCC treatment, the most left side of the original plant height The actual pot can not reach the nominal plant height (110 cm), that is the height of two to three years after cultivation Springfield

Tinos

2. Oriental Lily (Oriental), commonly known as perfume lily together with OT, flower cut flower advantages: fragrant flower large (15 - 20 cm), low light requirements, flower type flat, wide leaves, flowers flamboyant and gorgeous disadvantages: some varieties thin and easy to fall, not too heat resistant, slow reproduction, late flowering, heavy yellow leaves Representative varieties: Sorbonne (pale pink flowers of the florist), Siberia (white flowers of the florist) Potted Dongbai effect (famous variety Stargazer), very beautiful, note that the leaves are less than a hundred and wider

Sorbonne

3. Musk/Iron Lily (Longiflorum), also known as Easter Lily Advantages: beautiful and elegant flower type, very good maintenance, moisture tolerance, rapid reproduction, poor cold resistance, subtropical origin, no need for low temperature dormancy Disadvantages: only white (all pink yellow lines are LO hybrids, this year's online store is marked wrong), pollen is easy to stain petals Representative varieties: have heard of the famous White Heaven

4.LO Hybrid-Recommended Advantages: Inheriting the flower type and easy maintenance of Tiepao, Dongbai's flower color and aroma, very easy to breed, large flowers (18 - 25 cm), fast development, no need for low temperature dormancy Disadvantages: single flowering is not long under high temperature, flower buds are less, the color becomes lighter due to insufficient light, and there are few domestic varieties Representative varieties: Triumphator is its outstanding representative, especially recommended, one of the lilies that any novice can feed (often sold out) Small special potted effect, note that it is relatively high, flowers big

The colors are intense in bright light and low temperature.

5. OT hybrids-recommended advantages: inherited the excellent genes of trumpet lily (Trumpet, parent is Sichuan Minjiang lily, etc.), richer flower color than Dongbai, heat-resistant and easy-to-grow, strong plants, no need for low temperature dormancy. The stems are thick, the flowers are large (20 - 25 cm), the aroma is rich, suitable for gardens and large containers, and the foreign commonly known as Tree lily (tree lily) Disadvantages: the first year often has few flowers, some varieties have large abnormal flowers, and the flowers are easy to droop Representative varieties: Conca D 'or, Yelloween, Fairy (Nymph), color coverage is wide, especially the yellow line that Dongbai does not have Note: The number of flower buds of yellow varieties except Yelloween is relatively small, and the ball of 16 - 18 cm has only two to three flower buds. Perennial wooden door (Conca Deo), pay attention to height and number of flowers.

Jeroen, large flowers, rich sweet fruit aroma

6. LA hybrid-recommended advantages: breeding is more crazy than sub-hundred, flowers are large, some varieties have light fragrance, this kind likes crazy ball, not sub-hundred so easy to eliminate bud disadvantages: the same as sub-hundred flower type is more rigid, flowers are easy to deform, the number of flowers is often less than sub-hundred Representative varieties: Red Alert, Diamond Party, etc., basically can be arbitrarily selected, no taboo Red Alert potted effect, larger flowers and wider leaves than Yabai, flower type of iron cannon is not inherited, aroma is also sometimes absent

red Alert

7. The most common edible lily is often the Chinese native species Lilium lancifolium, tall and slender plants, petals rolled back, easy to raise, but not suitable for indoor This ornamental value may not be as good as the Dutch hybrid, is one of the Asian lily parents Very unique inverted drooping flowers are sometimes used by unscrupulous traders as perfume lily

8. Double lily is divided into sub-hundred, Dongbai two kinds, characteristics, maintenance same as above, more like double red, and lily characteristics are not thick, easy to deform, incomplete petals

III. Indoor maintenance 1. Light is not very picky, closed balcony can also be planted, east, west and south three sides are no problem direct light for at least 3 hours, 4 - 6 hours is better, the sun in the west may burn the east louver, should be moderately protected, pay attention to the flower buds such as peanuts must not lack light when large, otherwise eliminate the bud 2. Soil quality, this is the most important, permeable to water is the first essential I use peat pearlite, but in fact the material is not limited, as long as soft ventilation light, prevent rotten peat ball (peat, disinfected nutrient soil, compost soil, coconut bran): pearlite (or various granular plant materials)= 2:1 to 1:1. More pearlite can be added to the soil near the seed ball, so that it is more assured that the soil can be evenly mixed with slow release fertilizer/organic fertilizer, not piled at the bottom of the ball, and it is easy to rot if it is not absorbed. 3. Except Dongbai, it is best to evenly wet the water. Other varieties are very drought resistant (especially when planting), so it is better to lack it than to waste it. When the pot soil becomes lighter, Or the topsoil is dry and then watered. It is no harm to water each time. You can rely on the weight of the pot. When it becomes lighter, you can irrigate it thoroughly. The sign of excessive watering is rotten balls. The lower leaves turn yellow and fall off in large quantities. The buds are scorched. The top leaves are scorched. If one occurs, you should be alert to the rare situation of too little watering. The bulbs and fleshy stems can store water. Therefore, when they encounter wilting, First of all, suspect rotten balls rather than lack of water. 4. Fertilizer and ball raising Lily likes fertilizer, but it should be applied thinly and frequently. Large fertilizer will burn leaves.(leaf tip withered, flower bud died) If one-time cultivation does not need fertilization If it is necessary to reflower every year, then fertilization after flowering is very important, mainly nitrogen and potassium Lily's nutrient absorption rate: nitrogen: phosphorus: potassium = 10:1:12, but phosphorus is easy to be fixed and difficult to absorb, so according to 1:1:1 or 1:1: The rate of 1.5 can be remembered as thin fertilizer and frequent application. With each watering, a little bit is added. It is not necessary to serve with thick fertilizer. Its fertilizer requirement is smaller than that of other bulbs. When it germinates, it does not fertilize. When it grows rapidly, nitrogen is mainly used. When it appears flower bud, phosphorus and potassium are mainly used. No fertilizer is applied at flowering stage. After flowering, it immediately starts to cultivate bulbs. The fertilizer ratio is as described above. 5. pH Dongbai soil is acidic.(5.5 - 6) is good, peat itself acidic enough other varieties unlimited 6. Temperature lily is actually spring planting bulbs, spring planting summer flowers autumn cultivation winter storage (For most parts of the country) For Guangdong and Guangxi regions with hot and humid summer, as well as Hong Kong and Taiwan, cold storage in summer, planting in autumn, watching flowers in winter and spring, keeping the temperature at about 12 degrees when rooting in spring is most conducive to stem rooting growth. Pay attention to protecting against high temperature damage in summer. Low temperature can prolong flowering. OT is very heat-resistant, so it can open under the scorching sun. The flowers of Dongbai often wither rapidly when the sun is at its strongest. 7. Dormancy will be dormant when the temperature is low in winter (0 - 10 degrees)(The leaves fall and the stems are yellow, and the dead stems are cut off again at this time) General Yabai and Dongbai need a cold period of at least 1.5 - 3 months (4 - 5 degrees Celsius) to start the growth of the next year. Lily with iron gun (LO, LA, L) and trumpet (T) genes can be planted every year, and it is not necessary to deliberately create a cold period. As long as the winter temperature is lower than 20 degrees Celsius, natural low temperature can be used. Refrigeration at 4 degrees Celsius may replace heat tolerant varieties. Dormancy may occur 1 - 2 months after flowering. However, early dormancy is unfavorable for ball cultivation and multiple flowering, let alone cutting off stems and leaves as soon as they bloom. Early dormancy often means rotten balls or serious unfavorable conditions. 8. How to plant without soaking in a disinfection bath. For the basal roots (old roots at the bottom of the ball), try to keep them. The seriously rotted parts can be cut off. There should be at least 5 cm of soil layer from the top of the lily ball to the soil surface. The distance between the ball and the ball is 2 - 3 cm. The bud head should be slightly inclined to the wall of the pot rather than the center of the pot. 9. Planting depth Lily is a two-layer root system. Under the ball is the basal root (can maintain the function for several years), the absorption function is weak, the received ball is often the basal root rotten and broken, do not worry about the newly sprouted bud base will produce several layers of dense and white roots, called stem root (annual), this is the main force to absorb nutrients, so you can not put the ball top on the soil surface Moderate deep planting is conducive to avoiding heat damage and raising the ball So the formula is drainage layer +3-5cm subsoil + ball +5-10cm cover soil, very simple~, Pot height at least 15 cm, root watering thoroughly, then wait patiently, do not dig around, after the bud broke ground, enter normal management as shown in the picture

Here update a novice planting method "step-by-step adding soil-different from the old planting method of adding soil in place" before forgetting to mention that when planting lily for the first time, you can only let the soil cover the lily ball, and then do not add soil cover, only reserve 8 - 10 cm space above the soil surface to continue adding soil. Water thoroughly, wait for the bud to drill out from the top of the ball, and then gradually add soil to the normal depth (5 - 10 cm from the top of the ball to the soil surface). The advantage is that it can satisfy everyone's curiosity and eagerness, avoid fear that the ball will not sprout, and want to dig but dare not dig. At the same time, adjust the direction of the bud when the bud grows out, so as to avoid the crooked direction of the bud from the depth of the soil layer. The first watering is also better. (For reference only, this method will not interfere with the root growth of the stem) 10. After flowering and dormancy, you can reduce the vase insertion, generally 5 - 7 days wither, you can also directly watch, the length of the cut should not exceed 1/3 of the height of the plant (at least 2/3 should be left, the more the better, otherwise what to raise the ball), you can cut off the stamens to prevent tarnishing the petals After flowering, remove the residual flowers to prevent the seeds from being forced to dormancy. In this way, obeying lily's own will can best achieve good multiple flowering effect and reproductive coefficient. Dormancy period in the original pot preservation, almost no watering, water every month to keep peat slightly damp can be summer hot areas can be dug in the spring into the refrigerator, autumn planting sub-hundred, Dongbai next year February-March temperature rise will emerge new buds iron cannon may also sprout in autumn, let it grow naturally flowering IV. Garden cultivation is very simple. Planting depth is 15 cm-20 cm in the north, and shallow planting in the south is appropriate. East hundred can be planted in all parts of China except South China and Northeast China. OT, LO, LA can be planted in the south of Liaoning. Pure iron gun can be planted in the south of the Yellow River. Areas that are particularly cold and not covered with snow can be covered with branches, straw, compost, etc. 5 cm. If there is snow, you don't have to be afraid that they will be frostbite cold resistance A> LA> LO = OT> O>> L late spring cold may hurt newly sprouted lily, need to cover protection pay attention to deep ploughing, sticky soil to ridge, add more organic matter to facilitate drainage (key), summer hot occasional watering 5. 1. How to Make a Flower When the main ball grows to a certain size, it will naturally split into two or more connected balls (Basically, it is the size that can bloom). This process starts after flowering and will be carried out every year. It is the simplest way to reproduce. The propagation speed mentioned in the introduction of varieties refers to the speed of ball separation L = LA = A> LO = OT> O. Dongbai may be divided every year or not. It is related to cultivation and conservation. The first five kinds of ball separation are very frequent. When the number of ball separation is too large, when the buds are crowded, they can be broken by hand during winter dormancy. It's very simple. It won't hurt the bulb. It's very likely that it will have multiple buds in the first year. This kind of bulb often blooms poorly, but it will become several buds in one year. The bud point divides into two, and the middle is the residue of the old stem of that year.

2. Stem bulbs are actually small bulbs produced from stem roots. The quantity and quality of stem bulbs have a great relationship with the quality of stem roots. The quality of cultivation in that year has a lot to do with it. After 1 - 3 years, the size of flowering bulbs can reach the size of flowering bulbs. The development speed is faster than that of bulbils, which is equivalent to starting from the second growth stage of bulbils (basal leaf-stem-flower). Yabai, Tienpao, LA, LO are also the best in this kind of propagation, especially LA. The stem bulbs in the first year are likely to reach the size of flowering bulbs.

3. bulbils Asian lily, Lilium lancifolium After flowering, especially after bud elimination, it will produce small bulbs at the root of plant leaves, called bulbils. When mature, it will often take root and fall off to develop in the soil. In the first year, it will only grow a grass-like leaf. It will dormancy in winter. In the second year, it will grow seed balls and clustered leaves and dormancy again. In the third year, it will sprout flowers. Although it is slow, it is purple and black after maturity.

4. Scales are very similar to the reproduction of red cuttings. Healthy scales (or scales that fall off accidentally) are removed and placed obliquely in sterilized and moist peat or vermiculite. After a month, small bulbs can grow and can be planted separately. The reproduction coefficient is large, but the slow development process is the same as the bulb.

5. Seeds-not recommended by enthusiasts. Except for native species such as iron cannon and Minjiang River, most hybrids either have empty shells or grow slowly, and the offspring of self-crossing will mutate 6. 5%. Cutting-not recommended for Taiwan lily (Lilium formosanum) hybrid, can root LO and LA if the cut flower stem moisturizing, can grow small beads, can separate planting, but the stem itself is difficult to root is basically useless to Dongbai, so the flower shop cut lily is a uniaxial monocotyledon, once the terminal bud is damaged, the reproductive growth (flowering) of the year stops, so never try to top, cuttage six. FAQ basic florist's questions all focus on the first two items. Bulb rot-controlling watering, dry rather than wet caused by fungi, stagnant water is the main cause, it is often too late to find, if the bulb disk intact can peel off rotten scales, disinfection and storage symptoms are changeable, leaf margin yellowing, foot leaves fall off, plant wilting and watering is not relieved, OT, LO, LA and other flower buds blackening, growth stagnation and so on, are very likely to be rotten bulbs 2. Buds are common in Yabai because of lack of light (continuous rain, put indoors). The phenomenon is that the small bud changes from green to brown, and then scorched, so it will not blossom that year and continue to cultivate the ball well. The main reason for the disappearance of lilies of non-Asian blood is rotten balls. 3. The leaves burn thick fertilizer, and the immature fertilizer may harm the root system, making the leaves seriously scorched and the bud withered. Wash the basin soil with heavy water and change the soil if necessary. Dongbai is easier to burn leaves. Pay attention to the chloride ion in watering and fertilization. fluorine ion should be less (more phosphate fertilizer such as superphosphate, use with caution) 4. Break the same bud treatment, continue to raise the ball, the lily will not send lateral branches, terminal bud break means that the year did not open 5. 5%. The common fault of yellowing and shedding lilies in foot leaves, especially in Dongbai and some sub-lilies, is not obvious in LA,LO,OT. If it is not serious, it basically does not affect ornamental, it can be used as a reflection of plant health. Insect pests are rare, occasionally attacked by shell beetles, Japanese beetles, aphids and so on. Snails may nibble on flower buds and pay attention to protection when planting on the ground. Botrytis cinerea is common in greenhouses with high humidity, and when it is hot and rainy, mildew-like spots appear on the leaves, which can be eliminated by spraying fungicides. Off-season germination for particularly strong varieties such as iron cannon, it is possible to sprout new buds as they approach dormancy in winter, allowing it to grow by 8. 5%. Do not germinate this is the novice most afraid of the situation, fortunately, if not because of rotten ball, rotten bud, this kind of situation is very rare, often the cold period of planting ball is not enough to break dormancy, this situation can be dealt with in the refrigerator, there are signs of germination and then sow 9. Abnormal buds and double flowers often appear in cold-treated autumn bulbs, which are related to the long cold treatment time and generally do not affect planting seven. Select and store the annual suppliers will have spring balls and autumn balls, spring is a good season to buy lilies, and now every place is booking. The bulbs bought from February to April are often fresh bulbs with very short buds or no buds. Autumn will provide cold treatment (breaking dormancy for autumn flowering) and pre-rooting (providing suitable temperature for stem rooting and growth in summer). The delivery period is August-September, and there are fewer varieties. It is recommended to plant indoors in the north and in Liangguang area. The outdoor species in the north are often dried by the north wind before flowering. When the balls are received, the buds are already long and easy to break. Do not rough the lily balls and are not resistant to storage, because there is no protective skin in the outer layer. Once dehydrated, it can be left in the original basin when dormant in winter. Watering the soil once a month to keep the soil slightly wet can be done by filling a plastic bag with wet peat, burying the stems and putting them in the freezer (not freezing! Save, wait for breaking dormancy and sprouting, take out and plant eight. Other basins: the larger the basin, the deeper the better, as long as the drainage is smooth, for the family 14-16cm ball, the 18cm basin can grow three 16-18cm balls, the 20cm basin can grow three balls, or you can use the 15cm-18cm basin alone, this is the bottom line of the basin, you can increase the diameter of the basin as appropriate, do not use the shallow basin, the size of the ball mentioned above: the ball of 14-16cm is mainly LQuery Apen LA. LO varieties Dongbai and OT generally need to buy 16-18cm bulb number to ensure that the bulb perimeter has a great relationship with the number of flowers. Generally, 12-14cm begins to have flowers, 18-20cm is exhibition grade, iron cannon line, OT line can grow to the perimeter 25cm plant height: when you just raise lilies, you look at the data 90100110120 and even 130cm thinks it's scary, but the plant height of mature plants that can only be achieved by planting in the ground for about two years is far below the data value. Moreover, the stems of modern hybrids are so stout that they will not be lodged and broken even if they have many flowers (the potted plants in the first year are about 1x2 to 2canth3 of standard height). In theory, moderate high temperature shortens plant height, blossoms ahead of time, weak light and low temperature make stems elongate, flowering is delayed by Yabai from subplanting to flowering for 70-90 days, Dongbai 90-120 days, and the order of other varieties is early A.