When does Hydrangea blossom several times a year?

Hydrangea, which is also a super beautiful flower, can be adorable, so when will this hydrangea split? Blossom several times a year:

When does Hydrangea split:

The ramet time of Hydrangea should be carried out before sprouting in early spring. Separate the rooted branches from the mother plant, pot directly, watering should not be too much, maintain in the semi-shady place, wait for new buds to sprout and then transfer to normal maintenance.

Hydrangea blossoms several times a year:

Hydrangea generally blossoms in June and June every year, and some flower friends ask hydrangea how many times a year to blossom, actually only once, but because the characteristic of endless summer flowering is that both new and old branches blossom, often the flowers on old branches blossom for a long time before new branches blossom, so it will form an illusion of blooming twice.

Other series of hydrangea flowers only bloom on old branches, so it is more obvious to blossom only once.

The time of Hydrangea ramet is introduced here, generally speaking, it only blossoms once a year.

Methods of cultivation and management of hydrangea

Hydrangea is very lovely, its flower shape is surrounded by countless four-petal flowers into an umbrella, but also like a ball, the red hydrangea is quite like a hydrangea, hence the name. Because of its lovely shape and easy to grow, hydrangea is deeply loved by everyone and cultivated in pots. So how to grow hydrangea?

The propagation methods of Hydrangea include ramet, pressing, cutting and so on. Among them, the cutting method is the most commonly used, and the following is a case study of cutting propagation.

Cutting propagation: from February before sprouting, you can start cutting (flower friends can also try in other seasons, surprises are always after trying), select semi-lignified branches, about 20cm long, pick off the lower leaves, cut off the buds with buds, cuttings are suitable for 13-18 ℃, rooting 15 days after cutting. Of course, there are also some flower friends who have taken root.

1. Soil selection for Hydrangea cultivation.

Hydrangea prefers humus-rich, moist and well-drained light loam, and its substrate can be prepared with the ratio of rotten leaf soil: garden soil: river sand: organic fertilizer = 4-4-1-1-1. The flowerpot should not be too small when potted, and a large pot with 20cm~25cm diameter should be selected to facilitate root expansion and make the plant grow healthily.

2. Illumination requirements of Hydrangea cultivation.

Hydrangea likes the environment of half yin and half yang, if it is too shady, it will grow too much, blossom less, or even not blossom. In the Yangtze River basin, it should be placed in a well-ventilated semi-shade from summer to early autumn, with 50% to 60% shade to avoid scorching leaves caused by the scorching sun. After autumn, with the decrease of light intensity, potted plants can accept sufficient light to promote flower bud differentiation. During flowering, proper shading can prolong the flowering period, and too much light will often burn the petals and cause the flowers to wither ahead of time.

3. Temperature requirements for hydrangea cultivation.

The optimum temperature for the growth of Hydrangea is 18 ℃ ~ 28 ℃. The temperature above 30 ℃ or below 5 ℃ is disadvantageous to the growth of Hydrangea. When you encounter high temperature, you can build a shed (or sunshade net) to shade, spray water around the flowerpot and other methods to achieve the effect of temperature control and humidification. The Yangtze River valley and the southern region can survive the winter in the open field, as long as the pot soil is kept free of ice, the cold tolerance of mosaic varieties is poor, and the room temperature should be maintained at more than 5 ℃.

4. Moisture requirements and watering methods for Hydrangea cultivation.

Hydrangea likes the moist environment, because the leaves are large and transpiration is exuberant, so the growing season should not only keep the basin soil moist, but also require higher air humidity, but when the new shoots germinate, proper water control can shorten the internodes and make the plant type compact and full. to achieve the effect of dwarfing. Water every 2-3 days in spring, water once in the morning and evening in summer (less watering in the rainy season to prevent rotting roots), and sprinkle water around the plant and on the ground to increase environmental humidity. The cool weather after September can gradually reduce the amount of water and make the branches woody as soon as possible, which is conducive to safe overwintering. After entering the house in winter, it is appropriate to control watering and keep the basin soil slightly moist.

5. Fertilization methods for hydrangea cultivation.

Hydrangea likes fertilizer, which should be applied frequently during the peak growth period. generally, mature cake fertilizer or organic fertilizer can be applied every 15 days, and phosphate fertilizer should be applied mainly in the early stage of flowering. Or use 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution 600 times solution for 1 to 2 times extra-root topdressing (mainly refers to foliar topdressing), in order to promote large and colorful flowers and full flowering. Fertilization can be stopped after the temperature drops in the middle of October, so as to prevent the plant from continuing to shoot, and the young tissue of the new branch is easy to be frostbitten in winter.

6. the shaping and pruning method of hydrangea cultivation.

Hydrangea usually produces buds on the current year's branches, while flower bud differentiation has been completed in October of the previous year, so attention should be paid to retaining the flowering mother branches. After flowering, the residual flowers should be removed in time to promote axillary bud germination, and the heart should be removed once when the new shoot grows to 8cm~10cm, so as to promote the development of multi-branches and new branches. For the old plants that have been growing in pots for many years, we can choose to abandon them and replace them with surviving seedlings of cutting ramets, or cut off senescent branches for renewal and rejuvenation, so as to promote more new branches and more flowering.

7. Control of diseases and insect pests in hydrangea cultivation

Most of the common diseases are leaf diseases, such as white rot, gray mold, leaf spot and so on, so fungicides should be sprayed regularly to prevent the disease, and the diseased leaves can be removed and burned. Baxian flower has few insect pests, and most of them are aphids and leaf mites, which can be controlled by spraying internal insecticides regularly while ensuring good ventilation.

The above are the cultivation techniques of hydrangea. Hydrangea, also known as Hydrangea, is in full bloom with colorful flowers, sparse clumps of plants and long flowering period. it is not only suitable for planting in gardens, roadsides, forest edges, lawns and the north of buildings, but also can be watched in pots. Friends who like hydrangeas have a try.

The culture method and basic culture experience of hydrangea

Hydrangea, as an important flower and tree in summer, is planted under sparse forest trees, ornamental at the edge of the road, and potted plants can be placed in the courtyard and balcony. So how do hydrangeas grow?

The method of hydrangea culture (basic course)

1. Soil: loose, fertile and well-drained sandy loam is the best soil for hydrangea planting. However, the flower color is affected by soil acidity and alkalinity, acidic soil flowers are blue and alkaline soil flowers are red.

2. Watering: Hydrangea leaves are larger and require more water. The basin soil should be watered frequently in spring and summer to keep the basin soil moist; water should be watered once in the morning and evening in midsummer, and pay attention to proper shade; less watering in winter, as long as the humidity of the basin soil can be maintained; during the growing period, the basin soil should be watered enough to keep the basin soil moist, especially in summer. From May to August, in addition to meeting the water needs of the basin soil, it is necessary to spray water on the leaves once a day. But hydrangea is fleshy root, watering should not be too much, too much water is easy to cause rotten root. The weather is getting cooler after September, so it is necessary to gradually reduce the amount of water to make the branches grow strong so as to facilitate dormancy in winter.

3. Lighting: Hydrangea likes shade. After leaving the room in spring, it should be kept in a semi-shady environment and moved to a well-ventilated shady place in midsummer to prevent sunburn in leaves. After September, the light intensity weakens day by day. In order to promote flower bud differentiation, flowerpots should be moved to places with more light.

4. Temperature: the optimum temperature for the growth of hydrangea is 18-28 ℃, and the winter temperature is not lower than 5 ℃. Flower bud differentiation takes 6-8 weeks under the condition of 5-7 ℃. The temperature of 20 ℃ can promote flowering, maintain 16 ℃ after anthesis, prolong the viewing period, and pay attention to the rapid discoloration of flowers caused by high temperature.

5. Fertilization: the flowering period of hydrangea is from June to July, and there should be sufficient fertilizer and water before flowering. Flowering organic fertilizer or general fertilizer can be applied once every semimonthly.

6. Pruning: after Hydrangea blossoms, attention should be paid to the removal of flower stems to promote the production of new branches. Proper pruning can keep the plant shape graceful.

7. Insect pests: Hydrangea is mainly caused by wilt, powdery mildew and leaf spot. Spray control with 65% Dysen zinc wettable powder 600 times solution. Insect pests are harmful to aphids and bug bugs and can be sprayed with 1500 times of omethoate EC.

Hydrangea culture (practical experience)

1. Hydrangea planting: generally, plants are required to have 4 or 5 true leaves, with well-developed root system, strong and free of diseases and insect pests. Can be used tile pot, porcelain pot or plastic pot, generally with 15-20 cm pot is appropriate, cultivation, can first put the soil into the flowerpot, slightly compacted, and then irrigated with water, planting depth to the seedling with the soil and pot suddenly flat is appropriate, not too deep or too shallow, after planting, use the hand along the pot light pressure, do not squeeze the seedling base, to prevent root injury, seedling to avoid high temperature.

2. Hydrangea coring: in order to make the inflorescence look good, it is necessary to start coring after 2-3 weeks on the pot. when picking the heart for the first time, each branch needs to leave 2 nodes. When the lateral buds grow strong after the first coring, the second coring can be carried out, and each branch still has two nodes. The last coring should not be later than the end of June to ensure that the note can fully grow and differentiate into flower buds. The coring party makes the inflorescence smaller and results in a high percentage of blind shoots.

3. Breeding hydrangea in spring: the dead branches of potted plants should be trimmed and the soil should be turned over to change the soil. After taking the pot, the dilute liquid fertilizer dominated by nitrogen fertilizer can be applied once or twice, which can promote the germination of branches and leaves.

4. Breeding hydrangea in summer and autumn: it should be placed in the semi-shade or under the curtain to prevent the scorching sun and prevent the leaves from yellowing and anxiety. Topdressing is applied once or twice before and after flowering to promote the reproduction of chlorophyll flowers. After the flower fade, the pedicel should be repaired in time to keep the posture beautiful. The basin soil is often moist, but it is necessary to prevent stagnant water after rain to prevent the succulent root of Hydrangea from rotting because of too much water.

5. Raising hydrangea in winter: after entering winter, the plants cultivated in the open field should keep warm and keep them safe through the winter; potted plants can be placed in a warm place facing south to the sun and without cold wind. Although the withered leaves fall off in winter, the roots and branches still survive, and new leaves germinate in the next spring.

Matters needing attention in hydrangea culture

1. Hydrangea prefers acid soil and is not resistant to barren and saline-alkali soil. It grows poorly in alkaline soil, and its branches and leaves turn yellow, so it is suitable for acid soil which is loose, fertile and rich in humus. Its flower color can change from white to red and from red to cyan due to the influence of pH.

2. Move into the room in the first and middle of October, control watering, keep the room temperature at about 5 ℃, and promote its dormancy. Remove the leaves before entering the room to avoid rotten leaves. From the middle of December, it moved to the sunny place, keeping the temperature 15: 20 ℃, promoting the growth of branches and leaves, and leaving the chamber in late April of the following year.

3. In the annual growth period, it can be topped twice to promote branching. After flowering, the old branches were kept lumb2 nodes and cut short to control the plant height and promote the growth of new branches. Cut off the top of the new shoots after autumn to stop the branches from growing so as to survive the winter.

The seedlings cut in April and March can be moved into a 10 cm basin after rooting and then planted in a 16 cm basin in the middle of June. The heart was picked for the first time in June. If the heart is plucked in early June, flower buds can be formed in the middle of August. The seedlings cut from May to June can be planted in 16 cm pots from July to August. In order to promote the formation of flower buds in that year, the last heart picking must be before September, otherwise the flower buds can not be formed in the same year.

Propagation method of Hydrangea

The best propagation time: the most suitable cutting time of Hydrangea is from May to June in early summer.

Early spring cutting: one-year-old ungerminated branches can be used as cuttings, and May-August cuttings can use new branches of the same year as cuttings. The cuttings are about 10 cm long and have 2-3 nodes. The cutting substrate is plain sand or vermiculite. After planting in early spring, it is necessary to keep warm and maintain a certain humidity; after cutting from May to August, shade and moisturizing should be carried out, put in the shade, spray water frequently, and keep the substrate moist. After about 30 days, it can take root and survive. After taking root, it can be planted in a pot.

Striping propagation: biennial branches are used before sprouting in early spring. When pressing the strip, it will be partially cut in the human soil, otherwise it is not easy to root. Buried depth 2-3 cm, covered with soil 1 cm, pat compacted, poured through water, covered with plastic film, can take root after 30 days. When the strips are partially exposed, the 3-4 nodes of new branches can be poured with some fertilizer to promote growth. In the spring of the following year, it was cut off from the mother plant and transplanted with soil, and it could blossom in the same year.

Ramet propagation: it is suitable to be carried out before germination in early spring. When ramet, pour out the plant, separate several plants from the root, and plant them separately.