Cultivation and Management techniques of Tulip

1. Before planting, the tulip bulbs are prepared to check for diseases and insect pests. If they have been infected with diseases or have begun to rot, they must be detected for burning. After the disease ball was detected, the bulb root was soaked in fungicidal solution, such as chlorothalonil 600 times solution for 20-30 minutes. Around the middle of August, 3-4 tulip bulbs were cut open to observe the development of the inner nose (that is, the differentiated flower stem). The strong ivory-colored ones with 3-4 mm long nose were better, whitish ones were not good, and the flat ones were not ideal.

Select sandy loam rich in humus and well drained to make a high border of more than 20 centimeters, and irrigate and cover the soil with 1% 2% formalin solution one month before planting. The bottom of the cultivation bed had better be laid with coarse particles such as slag, fully mature compost as base fertilizer, fully irrigated, and carefully ploughed and raked 2-3 days before planting to ensure that the soil is loose.

2. It can be planted in the Yangtze River basin from late September to late November. The planting depth is generally 2 times the height of the bulb, and the row spacing is 9 cm × 10 cm. The shallow planting method of exposing the ball shoulder can also be used in the cultivation of cut flowers. Note that before planting, the seed ball should be sterilized and soaked in topazine or potassium permanganate solution for 15-20 minutes.

Due to the high ground temperature, tulips will be out of spring, so it is better to plant them a little later than early planting, generally from late October to November. Although the cultivation of natural flowering stage will not affect the flowering stage because of planting sooner or later, because the root system of tulip absorbs and stores a large amount of nitrogen throughout winter, if planted too late, it will affect the normal development of plant root system because of low ground temperature. whether the tulip root system develops well or not is the key to the success or failure of its cultivation. After planting, grass laying on the surface can prevent soil hardening, and adequate irrigation should be given in the early stage to promote its rooting.

3. The management of tulips after planting goes through a stage of natural low temperature, during which attention should be paid to keeping the soil moist but preventing soil from stagnant water. After the leaves began to grow in early February, weeding was carried out in the field, and the diseased plants were detected in time, pulled out and destroyed. When the plant has two leaves, apply dilute liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer for 1-2 times; because tulips are sensitive to potassium and calcium, proper application of inorganic fertilizers such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate and calcium nitrate can improve the hardness of flower stems. After flowering at the beginning of May, 1-2 potassium dihydrogen phosphate or compound fertilizer was applied to facilitate the expansion and development of new underground bulbs.

Tulips are generally in full bloom from late March to mid-April, the flowering period should be controlled, and measures such as rain and shade should be taken to prolong the flowering period and avoid direct sunlight.

4. After the tulip leaves are basically withered and yellow, dig the ball on a dry and sunny day. Be careful not to hurt the root of the ball when digging the ball, otherwise the wound is very easy to get sick and rot. After digging up, pick the leaves, separate the bulb size, and leave it in the shade to dry or air-dry. If you dry it in strong light, it is also easy to get sick.

Spread the seed ball properly, or pack it in half a box and store it over the summer under the condition of good ventilation and 20-25 ℃. In the rainy season, special attention should be paid to the ventilation and cool conditions of the storeroom. In summer, the box should be turned over for 2-4 times and rotten balls should be detected.

5. The main diseases of controlling tulips are virus disease, bulb rot disease, mite and so on. The control methods include: selecting virus-free seed ball cultivation as far as possible, carrying out adequate soil disinfection and seed ball disinfection, burning diseased balls and diseased plants in time, and spreading disulfide pine granules to prevent rust mites. In addition, tulips are also prone to physiological diseases of calcium deficiency and boron deficiency, which should be prevented and controlled in production.

(1) accelerated cultivation techniques of 5 ℃ and 9 ℃

The characteristics of promoting cultivation of cut tulip flowers are as follows: the bulb roots are stored in a low temperature store. in the rotation system of protected cultivation, it can be planted for about 50 days, which can be planted from the middle of October to the end of March. the flowering period is from late November to the end of May.

The main results were as follows: 1. After the bulb flower bud differentiation was completed, the bulbs were pre-cold for 2-3 weeks under the condition of 13-15 ℃ on August 10th, and then formally refrigerated for about 8 weeks with 2-5 ℃. The technology of 5 ℃ cold storage is suitable for most varieties, and the cold treatment of 5 ℃ is 8 weeks. Some varieties of tulip can be treated with 9 ℃ cold storage. The method is to refrigerate under the condition of 9 ℃ for 12-16 weeks, in which the bulbs should be planted in wooden or plastic boxes in the last 6 weeks. After watering, the bulbs should be watered into 9 ℃ cold air storage, and the plants will root and sprout in the cold storage. When 5 ℃ promotes cultivation, it takes about 50-60 days from planting under the bulb to flowering, while the greenhouse time of 9 ℃ box cultivation is only about 25 days.

If the leaves spread horizontally and elongate slowly, it means that the low temperature is not enough; on the contrary, if the leaves are upright and thin, seemingly futile, the anther withered and dead, indicating excessive low temperature. Generally speaking, dormancy is broken after precooling plus true cold for about 70 days. If the low temperature is not enough, it can be promoted by dripping 400 mg / L gibberellin between the leaves. Note that because gibberellin is most easily inhaled into the plant by leaf axils, it is difficult to use spraying method.

In the cultivation of tulips, due to the lack of cold storage, some varieties are prone to blind flowers, which can also be prevented by dripping 400 mg / L gibberellin solution into the middle tube. In addition, different varieties have different sensitivity to blind flowers. Some early flower varieties, such as Merry Christmas and Yokohama, are prone to blind flowers if they are exposed to higher temperatures in the early stage.

2. The management method of temperature and light management of tulip cultivation is the same as conventional, and the optimum temperature for its growth is 15-18 ℃. When the air temperature dropped below 5 ℃, the tulips stopped growing. When the night temperature dropped below 10 ℃, the tulips must be covered with plastic sheeting to keep the temperature below 25 ℃ and 14 ℃ at night. However, when the temperature and humidity are too high, it is easy to grow and develop Botrytis cinerea and deformed flowers, so attention should be paid to the ventilation and ventilation in the protection area. Once a diseased plant is found, it should be pulled out and burned in time.

3. Points for attention in planting

The main results are as follows: (1) before planting, the ground temperature should be reduced to about 10 ℃ by shading and watering, and the optimum temperature should be about 14-16 ℃ within 2 weeks after planting.

(2) before planting, be sure to remove the scale near the base of the tulip bulb, so as not to hurt the bulb disk. When pressing the seed ball, don't push too hard. Bulbs should be planted in slightly wet soil.

(3) maintain the low salt level of soil and water sources. If the soil salt content is too high, it should be fully watered 2 weeks before planting to wash the salt. Soil pH should not be lower than 6.

(4) continuous cropping of tulips is strictly prohibited and must be rotated.

(5) keep the soil moist as far as possible, and keep the upper soil intact when watering. The standard of moderate watering is that the soil under the bulb can be squeezed into a ball, so as to ensure the humidity required by the plant.

(6) after planting 5 ℃ balls, the soil cover is about 5 cm, and 9 ℃ balls are generally cultivated in boxes, with shallow planting up to exposed shoulders and high-density planting of more than 200 heads per square meter.

(7) after confirming that the root system of the plant is well developed, 50 grams of calcium nitrate fertilizer per square meter can be applied, and the temperature can also be increased to 17-19 ℃.

(8) when tulip plants grow to 5-10 cm, those unsprouted bulbs should be dug up one by one for inspection. These bulbs should be removed and destroyed immediately so as not to harm other plants.

(9) to prevent excessive temperature difference between day and night. Through ventilation measures, the relative humidity is kept below 80%.

(10) the harvest should be carried out when the bud is fully colored and when the flower is closed. After the whole plant was harvested, the bulb was removed and the cut flowers were immersed in a fresh-keeping solution containing 10 grams of calcium nitrate per liter for 30-60 minutes. After immersion treatment, put the cut flowers in a cold storage of 2-5 ℃ as soon as possible, with a relative humidity of not less than 90%. If you put cut flowers in the freezer, be careful not to put fruits, bulbs and fresh cut flowers in the same freezer.