Key points of cultivation techniques of Nanguo Pear

Nanguo pear is an excellent variety in Qiuzi pear system. it has good color, aroma and taste, and is deeply loved by the broad masses of people. it is extremely cold-resistant, high yield and good management. it blossoms in 3 years, 20 kg in 5 years and 300kg in 20 years. Therefore, it is very important to master the cultivation techniques of Nanguo pear, the main points are as follows.

1. Orchard planning

According to the differences of topography, topography, soil and climate, the garden is divided into several production areas with an area of 120-150 mu. Configure roads, drainage systems and irrigation systems, and determine the location and area of the fruit yard, which is conducive to stacking, grading, parking and loading.

The fruit setting rate of white pollination of Nanguo pear is relatively low. During the establishment of the garden, there should be a certain proportion of pollinated varieties, such as apple pear, Zaosu pear, Huagai pear, Baixiao pear and so on. The suitable ratio is 1 inch, 8 times, 1 stroke, 6, and the distance between the main varieties and pollinated varieties is no more than 50-60 meters.

two。 Cultivation techniques

On the sloping land, the soil fertility is low and the soil layer is thin, the plant row spacing is 3 m × 5 m, and the row direction is parallel to the contour line; the flat plant row spacing is 4 m × 5 m, and the north-south direction is adopted. Before planting, a hole should be dug with a length of 0.81m, a width of 0.81m and a depth of 0.81m, or a circular hole with a diameter of 0.81m. When digging a planting hole, keep the opening of the planting hole equal to the size of the bottom, and avoid digging a pot bottom-shaped pit. After the hole is dug, the topsoil of the planting hole and the topsoil around it are backfilled into the planting hole, at the same time, 15-20 kg of mature farm manure is applied to each hole, and the farm manure and backfill are mixed well and filled into the planting hole.

When planting, we should choose high-quality strong seedlings with no disease and insect, no freezing injury and no mechanical damage. The day before planting, soak the selected seedlings in water for about 24 hours to make them fully absorb water, which is helpful to improve the survival rate.

When planting seedlings, the root system should be stretched, the seedlings should be upright, the rows should be made, and the interface of the rhizome should be level with the ground in terms of planting depth. After that, it should be watered in time, and the water should be watered thoroughly. Water the second time every 3-4 days, and then water the third time every week. Every time after watering, after the water has sunk, it is necessary to seal and bury and cultivate the soil pile in time to preserve soil moisture.

In order to improve the survival rate, soil temperature and growth in the year of planting, plastic film mulching should be used after planting.

3. Shaping and pruning

After planting, the seedlings should be dried in time, with a height of 70cm and 100cm (lower in mountainous and thin land). It is necessary to leave 8 full buds under the fixed dry cut, and pay attention to the position of the buds under the cut, because most of the first and second buds germinate into two upright competitive branches, and the shoots below the third bud have a larger angle and can be cultivated into the main branch. therefore, it is necessary to leave the third and fourth buds on the windward side, and use the wind to naturally increase the angle of the two buds to form branches. In the fixed drying, if the seedlings are strong, the transverse buds or horizontal branches in the middle and upper part of the seedlings should be used as the shaping band, because the base angle formed by the transverse buds is larger, which lays a good foundation for opening the main branch angle in the future.

The selection and retention of the basic three main branches can be selected within one or two years and are adjacent or adjacent. In the first year of winter pruning, the top upright and sturdy branch was selected as the central leading branch, leaving 50 cm to 60 cm cut, while under the central leading branch, three directions were selected, and the branch with a more suitable angle was used as the first layer of main branch to leave 40 cm to 50 cm short. In the following winter shearing, the central leader extended the branch key and left a short cut of 50cm and 60cm. The extended branch of the main branch should be cut by 50 cm, and the second and third lateral buds under the cut should be kept in the same direction, so that the first lateral branch can be selected, and the rest of the branches are generally not sparse and not cut. In the third year of winter pruning, the central leader extended the Chinese fir by 50 cm short, the lateral branches were cut short with appropriate length, and the branches that were too dense or too prosperous could be properly thinned or heavily cut short, and the rest of the branches were generally not thinned or cut in winter from the fourth to the fifth year. The central leadership trunk extension branch and the main side branch pruning were basically the same as the previous year, and attention should be paid to the selection of the third layer of main branch. generally, after 5 to 6 years, the shaping process was basically completed.