How to prune Schisandra chinensis

Pruning is the key to achieve stable and high yield in artificial cultivation of Schisandra chinensis. The author has been engaged in the artificial cultivation of Schisandra chinensis since 1997, and summed up the pruning method in practice, which is now written for farmers' reference.

The main results are as follows: 1. The north-south direction of Schisandra chinensis cultivation is the best, with good daylighting and good ventilation, which lays a foundation for stable and high yield.

2. Schisandra chinensis seedlings grew vigorously in the summer of the year when they were transplanted, leaving 4 sturdy lateral vines for each plant to draw stems, one seedling with two stems and two main vines per stem. Cut off the main stem of the original seedling. When the main vine branches grow to 50 cm long, hit the top and fix the stem, prompting the buds under the cut to grow young branches (that is, short fruit branches, also known as secondary shoots). When the young branch grows to 30 cm long, choose a strong branch without hitting the top to do the extension of the main vine branch, and the rest of the secondary shoot will hit the tip at 20 cm. In that year, only the tip of the secondary branch will be hit, and the extended branch will not be pointed to the Beginning of Autumn.

3. Liao Wuwei is a monoecious plant, and the number of female flowers is the key to high or low yield. In cultivation and management, pruning and improving the ventilation and light transmission conditions of the shelf surface can improve the photosynthetic efficiency of leaves, increase the number of female flowers, and ensure stable and high yield. Pruning to build a skeleton for stable and high yield. Before the sap flows in early spring, cut off the extended main branches of the previous year by 30 cm in length, shrink the secondary shoots to 20 cm, and cut off the extended main branches 50 cm from the ground if there are no secondary shoots. When the newly issued secondary shoots under the cutting mouth are 20 cm long, one auxiliary shoot is left untapped as an elongated branch, and the rest are all at the top at 20 cm to promote the stout of the main vine and the fullness of the flower buds on the secondary shoot. When extending the length of the main vine to 50 cm high (including the original 30 cm), tip again, and the rest of the secondary shoots are 30 cm long, so that nutrients are concentrated on the main vine branches and secondary shoots, which can increase the number of female flowers and make flower buds fully mature and full. The third time before and after the Beginning of Autumn should hit the tip, to promote the early Lignification of branches to prevent frost damage to dry branches.

4. When cycling and renewing a large number of fruits, the secondary shoots (that is, fruiting short branches) should be completely reduced to 10ml / 15cm before sap flow in early spring. When blooming and fruiting, new short fruit branches can be sent out at the intersection of the base and the main vine branches, leaving the strong position as the fruit branches of the next year, and the rest will be removed in time. When pruning in the coming year, cut off the old fruiting branch and renew it with the new fruiting branch, which is basically the same method in the future. In addition, when the main vine climbing over the pole is not high enough, the branch will fall down, it should be cut off at the top of the pole in time, to prevent "wearing straw hat" adverse light.

In the peak growth period in summer, the seedlings drilled out of the ground by the underground stem should be removed in time to prevent the competition for nutrients with the mother branch. A large number of basal growing branches will be sent out at the base of the Schisandra chinensis plant, which should also be removed while it is small. If there is a shortage of seedlings nearby, you can choose to leave a strong vine on the shelf.

The main branches should not be entangled with each other, the secondary branches are always the secondary branches, do not become the main branches on the shelf, this situation should be corrected in time.

Schisandra chinensis can be pruned in spring, summer and autumn, and timely summer pruning is the key to the three seasons. Without summer pruning, not only stable and high yield can not be mentioned, but even flowers can not be seen. If it is not cut in summer, the branches of the frame noodles grow competitively, they are chaotic, intertwined, too luxuriant, and the yield decreases year by year.