Pruning of cut rose
Rose is a deciduous or evergreen shrub of Rosaceae, which has large flowers, large quantity, graceful flowers, rich colors and different fragrances, and is deeply loved by people. It is one of the four cut flowers in the international market.
Rose grows and blossoms continuously for a year, and the plant consumes a lot of nutrients. If it is allowed to grow naturally, the old branches will die quickly. In order to prevent the senescence of rose, prolong the period of full bloom and cut a large number of high-quality cut flowers, it must be regulated by shaping and pruning, which can develop main branches and flower branches, adjust tree potential, improve ventilation and light transmission conditions, and ensure the exuberant growth of rose plants. The pruning work is mainly carried out from the following aspects:
Pruning of 11-year-old seedlings
1.1 maintenance of main branches
After planting, in order to make its root system developed, more vigorous branches, and expand the crown, do not let it blossom at first, but mainly cultivate branches. Practical operation: when the branch directly produced by the scion is budding, remove the flower bud and all its 3 leaflet compound leaf internodes, make the lower leaf axil send out new branches, and leave 3 or 5 sturdy branches as the main branches. The branch selected as the main branch does not let the top of the branch blossom, and then pick off the heart when the bud appears, that is, remove the flower bud and all the 3 leaflet internodes in the lower part of the main branch, so that the leaf axil of the middle and lower part of the main branch germinates and becomes a cut flower branch.
1.2 maintenance and pruning of cut flower branches
The stronger the cut flower branch is, the better the quality is, so it is necessary to remove the germinating lateral buds and lateral buds in time to ensure the robust growth of flower branches and the development of apical buds.
Pruning of 22 to perennial plants
In addition to the normal maintenance of cut flower branches, there is also a special way of pruning, that is, dormancy renewal pruning.
2.1 dormancy pruning in midsummer
The method of broken branches is generally adopted. Specific practice: bend or break branches at the height of 50~60cm from the ground, that is, break the xylem, but be careful not to break the phloem, and then press the branches to the ground. In this way, the maximum number of leaves can be retained for plant support, which can not only ensure the production of high-quality cut flowers in autumn and winter, but also send out new branches from the base of the injured branches. these new branches can be used as renewal main branches or pruned into flower branches. If dormant pruning is not carried out in summer, because of the high temperature, the flowers are small and few, and the price is low. When the temperature is higher than 35 ℃, the plant will automatically enter the semi-dormant state of tappet leaves, which can not guarantee the quality and economic benefits of flowers in summer, but also affect the quality and benefits of flowers in autumn and winter.
2.2 pruning deciduous leaves before dormancy
In winter, if the greenhouse cannot be heated, a heavy pruning, also known as retraction, can be carried out before the fallen leaves are dormant. Specific methods: 3 to 4 strong growing main branches were selected to be cut short from the base 20~50cm, the section should be at the 0.5~1cm above the outward growing leaf buds, and all the other branches were cut off, leaving the main branches and flower branches among them. Generally, heavy pruning is carried out in mid-December and late December, and early spring flowers can be produced in Ching Ming Festival. At this time, the flower price is higher, and when it enters the full bloom on May Day, it can produce higher economic benefits. If heavy pruning is not carried out in winter, the whole plant will be full of tall and many branches, which will consume nutrients in vain, and the branches and leaves will not flourish after the Beginning of Spring, and the number of flowers will be greatly reduced.
2.3 controlling the pruning of florescence
The date of flower picking is related to the pruning time, variety, air temperature and cutting position, so it is necessary to determine the pruning time and cutting position according to the variety and temperature. The time from pruning and retaining cut flower buds to flowering is generally 5-6 weeks in summer, 6-7 weeks in spring and autumn, and 8-10 weeks in winter. In addition, when the branches were pruned in the middle of the leaves, the time from shearing to flowering of the new branches was short, and the length and diameter of the cut branches were the largest.
In addition to the pruning in the above main periods, it is necessary to remove diseased branches, weak branches, rootstock buds and inward growing buds, and prune overlapping branches and overdense branches in time.
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Pruning and management techniques of cut rose
In order to ensure the high quality and high yield of cut roses, the cuttings are generally replaced every 3~4 years and the grafted seedlings are replaced every 5~6 years. In recent years, the planting of cut rose varieties has been replaced with the change of popular varieties in the market. There are differences in leaf shape, axillary bud shape, axillary bud growth speed and flower type among different varieties of rose branches. The bud at the top of the branch develops into flower bud and blossoms at the earliest, and 1~6 axillary buds below the flower develop new branches in turn and grow in turn to form flower bud and bloom; the axillary buds at the base and middle of the branch form flowers.
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Production rules of cut rose
First, the propagation of cut rose is mainly through grafting. The rootstocks used are wild rose, pink rose or thorn-free dog rose, and thorn-free dog rose is the most ideal. Grafting propagation takes place in the growing season, usually from mid-March or early July to mid-September. At this time, the bark of the rootstock is easy to peel off, the operation is convenient, and the survival rate is high. When grafting, first make a vertical incision on the rootstock, and then make a horizontal incision to form a "T" shape. Then cut the shield-shaped bud piece from the scion and insert it into the incision. And then tie up the location. Cut more than the incision after the scion survived.
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