Cutting technique of Autumn Rose

Rose can be cut all the year round, but the autumn cutting method is simple, easy to manage after winter, and can blossom in the same year after planting in the pot the next year. From September to October and the temperature from 20 ℃ to 25 ℃ is the best time to cut rose, and its survival rate is more than 95%.

Seedbed preparation

The neutral sandy loam with better water and fertilizer conditions (pH value 6.5 to 7) should be selected for cuttage seedling raising. If the soil is clayey and heavy, it can be mixed with an appropriate amount of fine sand during soil preparation. If the soil has high sand content and low fertility, an appropriate amount of organic fertilizer can be applied during soil preparation, combined with 0.5 kg of methyl isophosphates per mu to prevent underground pests from harming seedlings. When raising seedlings at home, shallow mud pots or shallow wooden boxes can be used to select soils with loose soil, good drainage and ventilation, and no nodule bacteria, such as 7 portions of loose vegetable garden soil plus 3 portions of bran ash or perlite. Before use, it is best to spread the above matrix on the cement ground for sun or liquid disinfection to kill germs in the soil, and then fill it into a basin or box for cutting.

Selection and pruning of cuttings

The plants with strong growth, no diseases and insect pests and good quality were selected as the mother plant in the ear harvest nursery, and the branches with sturdy branches, short internodes, good Lignification and well-developed leaves were selected as cuttings on the mother plant. The cuttings have 4 internodes (i.e. 3 compound leaves), the ear strip is about 10 cm, the top leaf is 1 cm away from the upper incision, the upper incision is cut into a plane, the lower end is cut off from the lower part of the third compound leaf, and the lower part of the compound leaf is cut into a horse ear shape. The first and second compound leaves must be robust and complete, with 2 leaflets in each compound leaf and the rest cut off together with the petiole. The cut under the cuttings should be cut into a horseear shape at the base of the stem behind the bud eye of the third compound leaf, in order to make full use of the favorable factors of rich nutrient storage at the internodes, and the cuttings are easy to heal and take root.

Rooting treatment before insertion

Soak the cuttings with No. 2 ABT rooting powder 30ppm to 50ppm solution, tie the cuttings with 50 to 100 cuttings into a bundle, soak the lower end of the cuttings in the solution for 2 hours to 4 hours, remove and insert into the seedbed, 3 cm to 5 cm deep.

In the fast dipping method, the 500ppm solution was prepared with 50% alcohol and naphthylacetic acid or indole butyric acid. 2 cm at the lower end of the cuttings was immersed in the solution for 2 to 5 seconds. After the solution was slightly dry, it was immediately cut into the seedbed. In order to prevent cuttings from rotting due to bacterial invasion during rooting, 2.5% ketoconazole can be added at the same time when preparing rooting agents.

Cutting method

Rose cuttings are often cut directly. The cuttage depth is from 1 to 2 of the length of cuttings, which is generally as deep as the second bud hole. When cutting, first pierce the hole with a bamboo stick equal to the thickness of the cuttings, and then insert the rose cuttings into compaction. The suitable cutting density is that the leaves do not touch each other. When cutting, long cuttings and short cuttings should be cut separately to prevent uneven length and uneven, mutual influence on light and growth. At the same time, the varieties should not be mixed, and the cuttings should be cut in sections according to the varieties, which are arranged neatly and orderly and are easy to manage. Spray water with a thin-eye spray can immediately after insertion, do not spray too quickly, so as not to pollute the cuttings leaves and rush out of the cuttings. Cover with plastic film to maintain the temperature and humidity in the bed.

Plug-in management

Fully water the cuttings, then use a small bow shed with plastic film to shade and moisturize. Spray water frequently in the first 10 days, keep a wet environment; after 10 days, control water spraying, spray again when dry, and keep it dry. In the environment of 20 ℃ to 25 ℃, cuttings can take root in 20 to 35 days, and the rooting rate is 95%. After the formation of new roots, timely watering and topdressing should be applied to promote the balanced growth of the aboveground and underground parts of the seedlings. Management is divided into three stages, each from 7 days to 10 days. The first stage is the wet stage, at this time to avoid direct sunlight, sunny days to cover the curtain, when the leaves are dry, use a small sprayer for foliar spray to prevent the leaves from withering and falling off. The second stage is the healing stage. At this time, the wound begins to heal, to prevent too much water, otherwise it will cause the wound tissue mildew, to gradually make the basin soil dry up, sooner or later can increase the weak sunlight exposure time, promote photosynthesis. The third stage is the rooting stage, which can gradually increase the sunlight exposure time, and the basin soil can be watered appropriately when it is dry. If the old leaves do not fall off, the new buds have grown, indicating that the roots have been sent and the cuttings have survived.