MySheen

Cultivation and management techniques of test-tube plantlets of Phalaenopsis

Published: 2024-11-05 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/05, First, the training of test-tube plantlets and bottle planting 1. In order to improve the survival rate of Phalaenopsis test-tube plantlets, first of all, test-tube plantlets must be strong. The test-tube plantlets must be refined before coming out of the bottle. when the plantlets have three leaves, they are placed in the place of scattered sunlight and irradiated evenly for about 20 days, so that the test-tube plantlets can grow more robust and adapt to the external environment more quickly after coming out of the bottle. two。 The seedlings should be especially careful when coming out of the bottle. First, pour a small amount of water into the culture bottle, and then gently shake the bottle. After the solid culture medium is shaken loose, take out the orchid seedlings with long tweezers to minimize damage to the orchid.

1. Seedling training and bottle planting of test-tube plantlets

1. In order to improve the survival rate of Phalaenopsis test-tube plantlets, first of all, test-tube plantlets must be strong. The test-tube plantlets must be refined before coming out of the bottle. when the plantlets have three leaves, they are placed in the place of scattered sunlight and irradiated evenly for about 20 days, so that the test-tube plantlets can grow more robust and adapt to the external environment more quickly after coming out of the bottle.

two。 The seedlings should be especially careful when coming out of the bottle. First, pour a small amount of water into the culture bottle, and then gently shake the bottle. After the solid medium is shaken loose, take out the orchid seedlings with long tweezers to minimize damage to the roots and leaves of the orchid.

3. The seedlings after planting out of the bottle are dried in the shade and planted in a white transparent, well-breathable small plastic pot with a diameter of 5 cm. The matrix had better use water moss, the lower part of the pad with a small amount of small broken bricks, in order to pass water and air. Before planting, the substrate should be disinfected first, the water moss should not be too wet or too dry, the simple method can not grasp the water by hand, and the water moss should not be too tight or too loose, because too tight is not conducive to the penetration of the orchid root, too pine orchid plant is unstable and the water moss absorbs too much water, which is easy to cause rotten roots. It should not be planted too deep, and it is appropriate to expose the stem base of the orchid plant.

4. Change the pot according to the growth of the orchid seedling, change the pot in time, when the orchid root is full of flowerpots, it can be changed to facilitate the growth of the plant. Generally, 6 months after the bottle comes out, change the basin for the first time with a white transparent plastic basin with a diameter of 8 centimeters, and change the basin again after 12 months, with a white transparent plastic basin with a diameter of 12 centimeters. When changing the basin, it is necessary to cut off rotten roots and diseased leaves. If the matrix is still good, you can retain the original matrix, and only add some matrix on the periphery, so as not to hurt the orchid root.

II. Cultivation and management

1. Whether the temperature is appropriate or not is the key to the good growth of Phalaenopsis. The suitable temperature for growth is between 18 ℃ and 28 ℃, and the absolute low temperature should be no less than 10 ℃, otherwise the leaves will fall off, the bud will turn yellow and fall off, and even the whole plant will rot and die. Large-scale cultivation of Phalaenopsis must have a greenhouse in order to survive the winter. When the summer temperature exceeds 30 ℃, Phalaenopsis will be in a semi-dormant state, and excessive watering will cause root, stem and leaf rot. Therefore, in the process of cultivating Phalaenopsis in winter and spring, there should be heat preservation facilities, such as covering the film, heating with a heater in the orchid shed, etc., to prevent frost damage; in the hot summer, cooling measures should be taken, such as spraying cold water on the top of the flower shed, sprinkling ice water under the flower rack, and blowing with a fan to achieve the effect of cooling. During the growing period, the daytime temperature of Phalaenopsis should be between 25 ℃ and 28 ℃, and the best temperature at night should be between 18 ℃ and 25 ℃. Entering the winter dormancy period, the temperature is not lower than 10 ℃, not only will not produce frost damage to Phalaenopsis, but also contribute to its flower bud differentiation and promote the blooming of flowers in spring.

two。 When the light is in the origin, Phalaenopsis is a typical shade-tolerant plant. However, it should not be too gloomy, otherwise, the plant growth is weak, the leaf color is dark green, the leaf is drooping, it is difficult to blossom, and it is easy to breed diseases and insect pests. Therefore, a certain amount of scattered light is needed, such as seedling 10000mur15000 lux, medium seedling and large seedling 12000mur20000 lux. Proper light has high photosynthetic effect, which is beneficial to the growth of orchid plants, which can make the leaves bright green, the mesophyll is thick, the leaves are firm, the plants are strong and promote flowering. But can not be exposed to the sun, strong light will burn the leaves. Shading 50% Mel 70% in summer and autumn, and proper shading in spring and winter. It is necessary to keep the light of the whole orchid shed uniform and make the plant symmetrical. For example, in some corners, the plant tends to grow due to uneven light, and the direction of the orchid plant should be often adjusted.

3. Moisture Phalaenopsis growth requires higher air humidity, the growth period to maintain more than 80% of the humidity above 90%, the best effect. In the period of flower bud differentiation of Phalaenopsis, it is necessary to control moisture, which is beneficial to flower bud differentiation. Watering should try to avoid leaving stagnant water in the leaves, especially in the cold winter, where the mesophyll tissue is easy to freeze, thus causing leaf rot. Therefore, after watering in winter, if there are water droplets on the orchid leaves, they must be wiped dry. Spring and summer growth period should be watered once a day or spray 2 Mel 3 times, in case of humid rainy season, less watering. In winter, the watering time can be reduced to 2mi every 5 days, and the spraying can be stopped. In principle, the substrate can be kept slightly wet. Phalaenopsis has strong drought tolerance. When the temperature drops below 10 ℃ in winter, it does not need to be watered to prevent freezing damage. The cultivation substrate can not accumulate water, and the stagnant water can easily cause rotten roots.

4. Fertilizers are mainly chemical fertilizers, commonly used are chemical fertilizers and some orchid special fertilizers, such as Huabao, Huaduo and so on. Based on the principle of applying more thin fertilizer, the fertilizer used by seedlings should also be diluted by a larger multiple to prevent fertilizer damage. It is better to spray or spray 1000 times dilution solution twice a week in the peak growth season and once a month in the growth retardation period.

5. Ventilated Phalaenopsis is an epiphytic orchid with aerial roots. aerial roots not only have the function of respiration, but also can carry out photosynthesis because they contain chlorophyll on their aerial roots. Phalaenopsis requires extremely high ventilation. In large area cultivation, orchid seedlings must be placed on flower racks about 50 cm above the ground, and electric fans should be used in hot summer, and orchid plants should not be too dense, so that Phalaenopsis can grow well and prevent the occurrence of diseases and insect pests.

6. Florescence management

The flower bud differentiation of Phalaenopsis is mainly affected by temperature. After high temperature in summer, the evening temperature is low in autumn, which can promote flower bud differentiation. The temperature difference between day and night is about 10 ℃, and flower buds can be formed after about one and a half months. When the flower bud grows to 8 ℃ 10 cm, the temperature is raised to 20 ℃-28 cm, which is conducive to the rapid growth of flower buds. At this time, the florescence can be controlled according to the need to adjust the temperature, but the temperature can not be higher than 30 ℃. In the bud stage, if the time above 30 ℃ is too long, it will lead to dumb flowers, that is, the development of buds will be blocked, and the buds will stop growing and dry up. The temperature should not be too low. If the temperature is lower than 15 ℃, the flower will almost stop growing, or even suffer from freezing injury and cause bud drop. When the branch of butterfly orchid is elongated, it can be supported by iron column, or bend the branch according to the need. It can also be planted on the pot according to the flower color and plant type, and when it comes to the pot, the original culture bag can not be removed, so as not to hurt the orchid root. Don't pour water on the flowers after flowering.

III. Pest control

The flowers and leaves of Phalaenopsis have high ornamental value. after being damaged by diseases and insect pests, the leaves leave disease spots and missing marks, which affect the ornamental value and economic value of Phalaenopsis. Therefore, the prevention and control of diseases and insect pests of Phalaenopsis is an important link in the successful cultivation of Phalaenopsis. In the process of cultivation, the key is to prevent, maintain the ventilation and light transmittance of the orchid garden, adopt scientific cultivation measures, strengthen management and protection, enhance plant disease resistance and prevent the occurrence of diseases and insect pests. Once diseases and insect pests are found, spraying control as soon as possible can achieve better results.

 
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