Keep Phalaenopsis until summer.
Phalaenopsis normal flowering period is generally February to May, according to the author's experience, if properly maintained, it can make it bloom all the year round. My family raised a pot of "big safflower butterfly orchid" new varieties, cut off the flowers after the Spring Festival, after re-changing pots,"May 1" before the festival began to take out new flowers, July 1 opened the first flower, is now in continuous bloom, this is the second flowering in 2000. Culture methods are summarized as follows:
1. Expand the drain hole at the bottom of the ordinary clay basin, preferably make the drain hole area reach one third of the basin bottom area, and the clay basin is suitable for medium shallow and slightly larger caliber.
2. Use decomposed and blackened pine needles that are easy to get in life as culture medium. When putting on the basin, first pad one-third thick broken bricks at the bottom of the basin to facilitate drainage. Undecomposed pine needles should not be used because the fleshy roots of Phalaenopsis are easily stabbed and have poor water retention capacity.
3. Put a water tray at the bottom of the basin, and put the flower wood block 1 cm-2 cm high. The water seeping down after each watering is stored in the tray, which not only keeps the balcony sanitary, but also increases the air humidity of the water environment.
4. Pouring 50 times of Clivia culture solution once every 5 - 7 days, spraying water on leaves and flowerpot periphery twice-3 times a day when the temperature is above 25℃, and watering clean water once in the evening.
5. Put it in a well-ventilated place on the balcony and avoid direct sunlight.
6. The balcony temperature is basically consistent with indoor temperature during the day, 1℃-2℃ higher in summer and 1℃-2℃ lower in winter, so that it is basically maintained between 25℃-30℃. At night, try to reduce the balcony temperature and increase the temperature difference. (Note: Do not keep the temperature below 18 ° C in winter).
7. During the period of new leaves and flowering branches, the pots should be rotated every week to ensure that the leaves and flowering branches grow without bias.
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Prevent the budding of Phalaenopsis
To prevent Phalaenopsis from falling buds, we should pay attention to the following points: the indoor temperature should be suitable for Phalaenopsis from autumn and winter, from budding to flowering, generally above 5 ℃. If the temperature is too low, it is easy to cause leaf yellowing or bud loss. Reasonable dry humidity of basin soil. When Phalaenopsis is pregnant and growing buds, you only need to keep them slightly moist, avoid watering too much and watering too often, and the potted soil is too wet, otherwise it is easy to drop buds. The ambient air humidity can be higher, and when the temperature is high at noon, you can sprinkle some water on the ground. There should be enough fertilizer. Every time Phalaenopsis blossoms, it needs a lot of fertilizer.
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Cultivation of Phalaenopsis on peat soil
The Phalaenopsis sold on the market are all packed in plastic pots and cultivated with water moss. I have bought several pots and planted them on the balcony, all of which died because of rotten roots. In the spring of 2003, the remaining 3 pots of Phalaenopsis were removed from the plastic pot, removed the rotten roots and planted in the porcelain pot, and the cultivation substrate was peat soil. After planting for more than two months, it was found that there were new leaves sprouting in the heart of Phalaenopsis. Phalaenopsis has been cultivated with peat soil for nearly 4 years, growing well and blooming year after year. The peat soil with some fiber can be selected to change the clods.
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