Cultivation of Chrysanthemum morifolium

The public appreciates the chrysanthemum and likes to see a plant with three or five flowers, whirling, fresh and lively; love to see three branches and nine tops, surrounded by a group of fragrances, implying "three more than nine tops", which contains traditional folk customs.

First, varieties are selected for public love, with a wide range of adaptation, strong stress resistance, moderate plant type, straight and straight branches, uniform leaves, plump flowers, bright colors and long flowering period. Should be few but fine, do not choose rare late opening, difficult to raise varieties.

Second, the mother plant can maintain the Beijing area, and the mother plant can overwinter in the open field or in the sunny bed. The mother plant can survive the winter in the open field and can be planted in the leeward and sunny border with a row spacing of 30 cm in July. Cut off the stalks in winter and pour enough frozen water. The perennial root is cold-resistant and air-dry and can be covered with a layer of broken grass. The coming spring thaws, remove the mulch, and the new buds sprout gradually. The perennial roots of the mother plant overwintering in the sunny bed (cold bed) are potted chrysanthemums. After the flowers bloom, cut off the old capital and remove the whole block, remove the outer fertile soil and roots, spray with medium concentration stone-sulfur mixture and other insecticidal pesticides, then pseudo-plant it in the sunny border and stick the soil firmly. If the soil is dry, spray water to keep it moist but not too wet. Cover the film against the cold in winter, and cover it with a mat at night when it is coldest. Pay attention to light, ventilation and temperature below 5 ℃ during the day and about 0 ℃ at night. It was moved out in the next spring and planted in the border land with a distance of about 45 cm according to the size of the root clump. After planting, depending on the soil moisture (dry and wet), pour water once or twice, loosen the soil and preserve soil moisture at the right time.

When the new bud of the persistent root grows into a 10 cm new branch, it begins to thinner the branches and pick the heart. First sparse the dense and weak twigs, and then pick the strong branches left to remove the heart, promote a large number of new branches, ready for cutting propagation. If the development of new branches is not prosperous, you can apply fast and effective fertilizer to make you strong. However, the maintenance of mother plants generally needs to control fertilizer and water, so that the growth of branches should be enriched and sophisticated, and it is not suitable for big fat and big water, so as to prevent the survival of weak cuttings. A small amount of chrysanthemum is raised in the family, and the old plant can be cut off at the end of autumn and put in a cool place in the sun (about 0 ℃). Branches will grow out of the room in the next spring, such as cuttage propagation.

Third, cuttage seedling and cuttage propagation are commonly used methods of traditional moulding art chrysanthemum, which is simple and easy, has a large success coefficient of reproduction, and can maintain the excellent characters of each variety. After cutting propagation, the whole organs of the plant are dominant, which can not only prevent the premature senescence of the plant, but also control the character degradation of the variety.

1. The cutting stage is carried out by stages according to the size and shape of the cultivated plant and the number of flowering heads.

Large "three branches and nine tops" chrysanthemum: in the first ten days of May, the first stage of cutting seedlings, cutting off the tip of the new branches of the mother plant.

Middle three or five chrysanthemums: in the first ten days of June, the second stage of cutting seedlings, using the branches of the mother plant after the first stage of picking branches.

Dwarf single-plant chrysanthemum (as general desk chrysanthemum), the third stage of cutting seedlings in mid-late July. The top branch from the upper part of the mother plant after cutting the branches in the second stage requires that the bud head is plump, the growth is strong, and there is no sign of lateral buds sprouting in the leaf axil. The strips are slightly shorter and about 7 cm long.

two。 The method of cutting should be sprayed with insecticidal and germicidal agents respectively one or two days before cutting. The following morning, choose to cut about 10 cm long and strong new branches (the stem section should be green fleshy solid, not white flocculent hollow) as cuttings, the lower part of the node base 1 mm should be cut flat, at the same time cut off the lower part of the 1-2 leaves, the upper leaves can be cut off some, to prevent cuttings wilting, slow survival.

The cutting medium was half-mixed with plain sand or vermiculite and fully mature common culture soil, and mixed with appropriate amount of pesticides and sterilized pesticides. A small number of cuttings can be used in shallow pots or seedling pots, with about 15 plants in each pot. Mass production, can be in 70 cm long, 40 cm wide, 10 cm high, with 3 3 mm wide seams at the bottom of the plug, each box about 100 plants, first 2 cm thick coarse sand at the bottom of the box as a drainage layer, and then the matrix is filled with flattening, the surface is covered with 1 cm thick washed river sand. When cutting, poke holes with bamboo chopsticks and bury the cuttings into one or two leaf nodes, not too deep, but close to the substrate. Immediately after the insertion, spray through the water, and after the basin soil is implemented, straighten up the cuttings again.

Cutting in May is dry and windy, so it is appropriate to put it in front of the greenhouse or greenhouse, open the doors and windows, and put shade on it. Cuttings in June and July should be placed in a cool, moist and ventilated environment under the shade shed, and the substrate should always be kept moist. Depending on the dry and wet weather, spray water to the substrate and the surrounding ground in time every day, so as not to make the matrix dry. The cuttage container should be overhead and should not be placed directly on the ground. The cuttings should be shaded within 3 weeks, then shaded, the seedlings should be exposed to light in the morning and evening, and the seedlings should be treated with full light for 5 weeks. After 6 weeks, the seedlings should be transferred with soil blocks and planted separately.

IV. Cultivation and management

1. The first and second stage cuttings were planted with ordinary culture soil or sandy loam soil with strong permeability and 20% of rotten human and animal manure (28 manure soil), and maintained with Tuo top tube basin (inner diameter 10 cm). When the white root is protruded from the bottom of the basin, the fertilized culture soil or Panax notoginseng dung soil is used, the three-branched and nine-topped seedlings in the first stage are replaced with two cylinder pots, and the third and five seedlings in the second stage are planted in chrysanthemum tube pots. The cuttings in the third stage were planted directly in the second barrel basin. 80% of the soil in the planting basin is filled up and maintained on a high platform. two。 The first stage of pruning and styling is to cultivate "three branches and nine tops". When the cuttings survive, they can be removed without waiting for the bud to elongate. The top of the cuttage is young and tender, and the leaf nodes are dense, and several lateral buds are produced quickly. At this time, 3 neat parallel buds are selected to shoot, and the rest are erased. When the 3 new branches are flat with 3-4 leaves, pick the heart again, leave 3-4 new buds in each branch, and set the branch when the new branch grows to 30 cm. Keep 7 to 11 branches, odd rather than even, encircle the plant with string and bind it with fine bamboo to keep the plant symmetrical. In the second stage, three or five chrysanthemums were cultivated. Generally raise three branches after the first removal of the heart is no longer heart, appropriate plastic surgery to maintain the balance of power of the three branches. After the first coring of 5 flowers, two or three new buds were retained, and when Changping had 3 to 4 leaves, the shoots were picked again, and finally 5 shoots were formed.

Pruning, framing, bud plucking, shaping and conditioning are all operated according to the routine cultivation of art chrysanthemum.

3. Watering and fertilizing chrysanthemums like to moisten and fear waterlogging; like to be fat and afraid of sexual violence. The application of water and fertilizer should be "controlled first and then released" timely coordination. During the high temperature growth period in spring and summer, the basin soil should not be moisturized for a long time to prevent the water-yellow foot leaves from getting old. In the cool development period of autumn, the basin soil should be wet and not dry, and the branches should be fresh and fresh. In the first ten days of September, 10% of the cultivated soil mixed with 50% farm manure was used as topdressing to spread the basin, and then loosened the soil and watered. As the temperature drops, water and fertilizer are gradually strengthened. After mid-September, according to the growth trend of potted chrysanthemum, 0.1% urea and 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate mixed solution can be used as topdressing, once a week. It can also be alternately applied to flower dwarf buds with medium concentration of rotten hoof water or oil meal and other organic liquid fertilizer. When the flowers bloom to 40%, the heart petals are loose, and they can be displayed or should be in the market.