What about the yellowing of triangular plum leaves? the reason for the yellowing of triangular plum leaves / water and fertilizer is the key.

For triangulated plum, friends who have seen it should be impressed. It has large bracts, rich colors, long flowering period, strong ornamental, and is kept at home by many flower friends. However, in the maintenance process of triangular plum, improper maintenance will cause the leaves to turn yellow, so what about the yellow leaves of triangular plum? The following are the reasons for the yellowing of several kinds of triangular plum leaves sorted out by the editor. Let's go and have a look.

First, how should the leaves of triangular plum turn yellow? find the cause.

The beauty of triangular plum, arousing love, its green leaves red flowers, each other is very eye-catching. However, once improper maintenance, resulting in yellow leaves, will seriously affect the ornamental, this time what to do? In fact, it is very simple to find the cause to solve, the following are the reasons for the yellowing of 6 kinds of triangular plum leaves, and attach solutions, we will look down.

2. The reason why the triangular plum leaves are yellow, six points

1. Soil does not drain

There are many reasons for yellow leaves, but the first thing we have to consider is the soil. In the breeding method of Bougainvillea, it has been introduced that although Bougainvillea has no high requirements for soil, it is afraid of ponding and is not tolerant of waterlogging, because loose and well-drained soil must be selected. So once the soil is firm and does not drain, yellowing of the leaves will occur over time.

Solution: If the yellow leaves caused by improper soil selection, at this time we should change the pot soil, choose loose, well-drained culture soil: humus, garden soil, sand in a ratio of 4:4:2 mixed.

2. Too much watering

As mentioned earlier, triangular plum is afraid of ponding, so once we water too much, causing ponding in the basin soil, yellow leaves of triangular plum will appear.

Solution: When watering too much, immediately stop watering, loosen the soil and let the water evaporate; usually watering should pay attention to: watering once a day in spring and autumn, once in the morning and evening in summer, winter plants are dormant, less watering, keep the pot soil moist.

3. Excessive fertilization

Finish watering, then look at fertilization, it is also one of the reasons for the yellow leaves of triangular plum. In the growth process of triangular plum, fertilization is essential, but when it grows slowly, fertilization should be stopped, if fertilization at this time, it will cause fertilizer damage, resulting in yellow rotten roots and leaves.

Solution: In the triangle plum growth slow or dormant, should stop fertilization, so as not to cause fertilizer damage. If it is too much fertilizer, it is best to immediately change the pot soil, let the triangle plum dry again, and then maintain for a period of time to recover.

4. Insufficient light

Flower friends who have raised triangular plum know that triangular plum can not lack light, once the light time is too little, its branches will become thin, leaves will also yellow, serious even death.

Solution: Increase the light, give the triangle plum sufficient light time, if placed indoors, it is best to choose a sunny place. Winter should be placed in front of the south window, and the lighting time should not be less than 8 hours, otherwise a large number of leaves will easily appear.

5. Disease, leaf spot disease/brown spot disease

In addition to the above points, the cause of yellow leaves of triangular plum leaves must also consider diseases. Once the triangular plum suffered from leaf spot disease or brown spot disease, yellow or brown spots will appear in the early stage of the disease, the spots gradually expand, and the leaves gradually fade and fall off.

Solution: Spray related chemicals, as for the specific how to do, in the triangle plum pest control in detail, here will not say more. However, in order to avoid unnecessary trouble, we should strengthen ventilation, maintain the humidity of leaves, and avoid pests and diseases.

6. Environmental mutation

If the above points can be ruled out, then there is another reason for the yellowing of triangular plum leaves, that is, environmental mutation. This kind of situation is generally found in the online purchase of triangular plum flower friends, it may not adapt to the growth environment changes, after a period of time will appear yellow and dry symptoms.

Solution: At this time, we should communicate with the store to understand the growth environment before the triangle plum, we want conditions at home, strive to remain unchanged, and then gradually change until it adapts. After a while, the flowers will return to health.

In general, triangular plum is very good to raise, but want to raise it, obviously not easy, once a little negligence, its leaves will yellow, thus affecting the ornamental, so everyone can not be careless for a moment. As for the reason why the leaves of Bougainvillea are yellow, Xiaobian will introduce this. Finally, I hope everyone's Bougainvillea can bloom beautiful flowers ~

What if the flowers don't bloom?

Flower Bonsai Network Guide: Flower Bonsai Network Xiaobian today brings you an article about how to do if the clivia gardenia does not bloom. Let's take a look.

Many people like to raise flowers, but I believe that many people will have a variety of problems when they buy them back, one of the most common and popular questions is, why don't their flowers bloom?

In fact, there are many reasons why flowers do not bloom, except that the plant itself grows weakly (or does not reach the flowering conditions), other possible reasons that affect the plant not flowering or flowering less: insufficient light, poor ventilation, temperature discomfort, soil pH discomfort, improper pruning, insufficient nutrients, excessive nitrogen fertilizer, diseases and insect pests. Today, we share several common methods for dealing with flowering plants that do not bloom:

1. Clivia does not bloom

1, too much light: summer clivia sun exposure time is too long, it will cause clivia leaves to grow too long (that is, abnormal, unhealthy rapid growth), resulting in the consumption of a large number of nutrients in the plant, thus affecting clivia breeding in winter, ready to bloom. Clivia is suitable for places where there is a little scattered light, and it is very suitable for keeping on the windowsill.

2, the temperature is too low: the temperature of the place where Clivia is raised is too low, if it is lower than 10℃, then the growth of Clivia will be inhibited, and it will basically stop growing below 5℃, not to mention letting Clivia shoot and bloom, even the plants will appear thin and yellow. It is critical that clivia maintain the proper temperature in winter.

3, insufficient nutrition: Clivia is the most taboo soil hardening, no permeability. If you haven't changed pots since you bought Clivia, it means that it is difficult for Clivia roots to absorb water and nutrients, which will directly cause no flowering and only long leaves. Clivia should be turned over and replaced once a year after flowering.

4, fertility deficiency: if not timely fertilization will definitely affect the growth of Clivia, nutrients are not enough, how can it bloom? Clivia to give appropriate decomposed cake fertilizer as a base fertilizer is very critical, followed by not in the spring and autumn premium frequent application, so as to maintain soil fertility, easier flowering, plants and roots will grow stronger. At the end of autumn, you can spray appropriate potassium dihydrogen phosphate to Clivia, which is to promote the breeding of buds.

Second, gardenia does not bloom

1. Insufficient light: Gardenia flowers like warm, bright, sunny and ventilated environment, move gardenia flowers to a place with good light and properly bask in the sun.

2, pot soil alkali: Gardenia flowers like slightly acidic humus soil, pH value in 4.8~6 is the most suitable, soil alkaline solution leaves yellow, usually watering can add some ferrous sulfate to improve the soil, but also often apply 10% alum fertilizer water to do topdressing.

3. Insufficient fertility: Gardenia likes fertilizer, topdressing decomposed cake fertilizer in growing season, applying phosphorus and potassium fertilizer before flowering season, and no fertilizer at flowering stage. It is recommended to change the soil once every 1~2 years to maintain soil fertility.

3. Milan does not bloom

1. Alkali soil: milan prefers slightly acidic soils. If cultivated in alkaline soil, or often irrigated with alkaline water, not only affect flowering, it is easy to lead to death. The alum fertilizer that can be poured every 10 days is practiced.

2. Insufficient nutrition: some cake fertilizer, alum fertilizer and water can be supplemented appropriately in the growing season. Nitrogen fertilizer can be reduced before flowering season, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be supplemented. No fertilizer can be applied during flowering period, and phosphorus fertilizer can be supplemented after flowering.

3, lack of light: Milan likes the sun, if too shaded, but also affect flowering, need to move Milan to a good place in the light, appropriate sun exposure.

4. The triangle plum does not bloom

1. Insufficient light: Triangle plum is a light-loving plant. If the light is insufficient or too shaded, the new branches grow thin, the leaves are thin, and the flowers are few and small. The bougainvillea must be placed in a well-lit and well-ventilated position, allowing it to shine for 8 to 12 hours a day.

2. Improper watering: Do not water before the triangular plum blossom period, properly control water. If you water too much, it will affect flower bud differentiation and make it difficult to bloom. You need to wait until the leaves wither before watering.

3, improper fertilization: triangular plum like fertilizer water, fertilizer should be large, because triangular plum blossoms more, flowering period is long, nutrient consumption is more, plus potted pot soil is not much, nutrients are limited, it is necessary to timely supplement nutrients. If the nutrient is insufficient, the water and fertilizer conditions cannot keep up, the flowering will be delayed, the flower quantity will be small, and the flowering period will be short. Can be based on the size of potted plants, generally once a month, in the golden period of triangular plum growth should be applied once every half a month liquid fertilizer, environmental temperature can be applied more. Applying more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer is beneficial to flower bud differentiation and ensures flower bud health.

4, branches too dense: Bougainvillea vigorous vitality, a few months will be dense as a forest, but potted soil and nutrition are very limited, growth space is also limited, if not timely pruning branches too dense, will cause excessive nutrient loss, affect flower bud differentiation, difficult to bloom. We need to prune the weak branches and dead branches of the triangular plum and some useless branches.

Cold damage of flowers and trees is a physiological disease, which generally refers to the damage caused by direct action of low temperature on flowers and plants, including cold damage and freezing damage, excluding indirect winter drought, freezing and other winter damage. Generally, it is easy to cause cold damage or freezing injury to flowers and plants due to sudden cold wave southward or sudden arrival of "early frost" at the end of autumn and early winter; it is also very likely to cause cold damage or freezing injury to flowers and plants again when potted flowers come out of the house in spring or when the covered film is removed.

The harm caused by different causes of cold injury is also different. The differences between cold injury and general infectious diseases are as follows: first, pathogens will not appear in the affected parts; second, diseases of the same kind of flowers and trees placed in the same environment often appear at the same time overnight, and the young shoots and new leaves are the most serious; third, the harmfulness caused by low temperature or especially cold weather conditions is related to the types of flowers and trees, the duration of low temperature, the speed of temperature rise, the lower limit of low temperature and so on. 1. The cause of chilling injury: some ornamental plants native to the tropics or subtropics were seriously injured or killed by the low temperature above freezing point (0 ℃ ~ 5 ℃ or higher) for a few days or even just a few hours. This kind of cold injury, which does not reach the degree of freezing in the tissue, is called "cold injury" because the normal metabolism in the cell is disturbed and tends to be disturbed to produce toxic substances. Different physiological activities and metabolic processes of flowers have their own highest, lowest and optimum temperatures. When the ambient temperature changes, their physiological activities and metabolic processes will be affected differently; if beyond a certain range, it will destroy the coordination between them and produce a large number of substances that will not be produced and accumulated under normal circumstances. Further study found that under the condition of chilling injury, the rate of protein hydrolysis was 4-9 times higher than that under normal conditions; the metabolism of nucleic acid was also seriously disturbed; in addition, cooling also affected the oxidation activity of sensitive mitochondrial membrane in plant somatic cells. Thus it can be seen that: first, the species of ornamental plants with chilling injury are usually native to the tropics or subtropics; second, the temperature condition of chilling injury is higher than the freezing point; third, the time of chilling injury is usually a few days or even only a few hours. In general, the sudden change of air temperature in late autumn and early winter or early spring is most likely to lead to chilling injury to flowers and foliage plants originating in the tropics or subtropics. Usually the young leaves of the tender shoots are "purple", "brown", "yellowing", "wilting", "necrotic" and so on, such as a bunch of red, green bamboo leaves, longevity flowers, leaf flowers, purple bamboo leaves and so on. 2. The cause of frost injury: frost injury refers to the damage caused by freezing in the tissue of ornamental plants when the temperature is below 0 ℃ or when they encounter ultra-low temperature for a long time. There are two kinds of ice crystals in plant tissue, one is freezing inside the cell, the other is freezing between the cells. The former means that when plant tissue freezes quickly, ice crystals form in vacuoles and protoplasts that destroy the structure of protoplasts and cause protein denaturation. Some membranes in the protoplasts are also scratched, which usually leads to the killing of tissues, so the result of this "freezing injury" is very serious and irreversible. For example, in early winter, the sudden southward cold wave in the north caused a sharp drop in temperature in a short time. In the winter of 2004, a large number of foliage plants in southern China died of freezing injury; in early December 2005, the temperature suddenly dropped from 12 ℃ ~ 15 ℃ to-3 ℃ ~-5 ℃ in Hefei, resulting in a large number of magnoliaceae flowers such as Magnolia mandshurica, Magnolia mandshurica, Magnolia safflower, Magnolia ruyuanensis and other leaves and young stems seriously frozen. The latter refers to the gradual formation of ice crystals in plant tissues with the gradual decrease of ambient temperature, because the concentration of solution in the intercellular space is generally lower than that of protoplasts and vacuoles, so when the cooling rate is not too fast, the water in the intercellular spaces reaches the freezing point first than that inside the cells, and the formation of ice crystals leads to the outward movement of water in protoplasts, resulting in cell fluid concentration, protoplast dehydration, protein precipitation, Degeneration of cell membrane and rupture of cell wall Whether the cell tissue is killed during the formation of ice crystals in the intercellular space depends on the freezing tolerance of the cell and the speed and times of freezing and thawing; one of the mechanisms of freezing injury is that the protoplast dehydration is the same as the dehydration under drought conditions, that is, the structure of the protoplast is irreversibly destroyed due to the mechanical stress caused by the deformation of the cell wall. the increase in the concentration of salt ions and organic acids after cell liquid concentration may also be toxic to protoplasts. The serious degree of freezing injury is related to the speed of freezing, the faster the freezing is, the more serious the injury is, because when the freezing is fast, the possibility of intracellular freezing is greater; if the freezing is limited to the intercellular space, then the faster the freezing, the faster the water loss and contraction of the cells, and the greater the destructive effect of mechanical stress. The serious consequences caused by freezing injury are also related to the rate of thawing of frozen tissue. Generally, when the cell freezes, it will inevitably lead to tissue necrosis and has nothing to do with the rate of thawing. In the case of freezing between cells, the faster the melting rate, the greater the harm. This is because the cell wall rapidly absorbs the water produced by melting ice and expands, but the protoplast attached to the cell wall absorbs water slowly so that it is torn. For example, the red bell flower and the triangular plum died because the bark was torn apart due to the rapid rise in temperature after being severely frozen. The specific manifestations of cold damage to ornamental plants are as follows: 1. Xylem blackening: in all kinds of tissues of mature branches of woody flowers, cambium is the most resistant to cold skin, while xylem and pith are the least resistant to cold. Therefore, mild frostbite only shows that the phloem will be frostbitten when the xylem is discolored and severe frostbite is caused by moderate frostbite. If the cambium in the stem or branch changes color, it will lose its resilience, which may lead to the death of the whole plant. 2. Dry bark cracking and necrosis: some flowers and trees with high water content in dried bark originating in the tropics and south subtropics, such as Fusang, red bell flower, cinnamon, rich tree, big flower tiger thorn plum, golden banyan and so on. When the ambient temperature drops to about-3 ℃, not only the leaves and branches will be frozen to death, but also the outer skin of the stem, especially the root neck, will form ice crystals due to water in the tissue, cold expansion and heat shrinkage will lead to bark cracking and necrosis and even the whole plant death. 3. The color of tender shoots and new leaves changes: one is "yellowing" in the cold season because the temperature is too low and some flower leaves that require high overwintering temperature will turn yellow or even fall off due to cold damage, such as Anthurium andraeanum, hanging branches, green pineapple, watermelon and pepper grass, etc. The second is "whitening", such as hanging orchids placed or planted in the open field, Zhu Dinghong, flower and leaf hanging bamboo plums, etc. when they encounter lower temperatures, the young leaves of new shoots will lose their original luster and appear abnormal changes of "whitening and losing green". Third, the new shoots and leaves of some ornamental plants appear "scorched" due to frost and other damage, such as hanging orchids, gentlemen's orchids, star anise gold plates, etc. Fourth, "purple" some ornamental plants in the case of low temperature, the leaf tip or leaf edge "purple brown" phenomenon, such as money tree, ink orchid, camellia (new leaves) and so on. 4. If the young leaves of new shoots have been scalded by boiling water: some ornamental plants with high water content in leaves, shoots or stems include some succulent plants such as green apple, ash, mulberry, Rieger begonia, flower vine, orchid, taro, aloe, longevity flowers, palm bamboo, Canadian jujube (seedlings), Washington sunflower, money tree, When the ambient temperature suddenly dropped from 5 ℃ ~ 8 ℃ to less than-3 ℃ ~-5 ℃ and lasted for a long time, the newly drawn twigs and leaves died in a short time and the dry skin cracked and peeled off. 5. The young leaves of new shoots are brown and necrotic: some underdeveloped ornamental plants, such as banyan, ten meritorious works, star anise, oleander, rich tree and Phoenix tail iron, are as ugly as fire. 6. plant necrosis hollow: general succulent plants often lead to dried and hollow plant necrosis when they encounter frost injury. Such as cactus, cactus, unicorn, three-angled arrow and so on. In order to protect ornamental plants from cold injury, the following methods can be used to prevent the cold injury of ornamental plants. (1) choose more cold-resistant flower species. Flower lovers should choose flowers and trees for foliage, flowers or fruit according to the lowest temperature in normal years in your area or the highest room temperature that can be maintained in winter in your home (usually 5 ℃ ~ 6 ℃). Camellia, tea plum, jasmine, white orchid, gentleman orchid, Belgian rhododendron, plum blossom, wax plum, bergamot, dai dai, red palm, cycad, etc., can not be used in the general home located in the Yangtze River valley without heating equipment, such as variable leaf wood, taro, desert rose, rhododendron, flutong, Phalaenopsis, Mariandai powder leaf, fruit taro, money tree and so on. (2) Pine pine, black pine, red pine, Huangshan pine, papaya, elm, maple, plum blossom, camellia, ginkgo biloba, cypress, Platycladus orientalis and Sabina vulgaris in potted plants should be considered for overwintering in several stages after the end of their growth in the same year. The first stage is 0 ℃ ~ 6 ℃, which takes days to weeks to give sufficient light to evergreen to convert starch in leaves into sugar and sugar. Large vacuoles are divided into several small vacuoles. Some fat trees can convert starch into fat. In the second stage, the fine structure and enzymes in the protoplast of-3 ℃ ~-5 ℃ were recombined so that the cells could tolerate the dehydration caused by freezing, and in the third stage, the protoplast gained strong freeze tolerance between-10 ℃ ~-15 ℃ and survived the cold winter. However, some cold-resistant succulent plants, such as long-term balcony or open field maintenance, have a gradual adaptation process, such as rat tail palm, twelve rolls, sedum tree, gemstone flower, etc., which can be raised from 0 ℃ to-5 ℃ ~-7 ℃. (3) strengthen the cold-resistant cultivation management to control the water and fertilizer supply of potted ornamental plants after the Mid-Autumn Festival. Appropriate application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to promote branch Lignification and tissue development to enhance its cold resistance, such as pouring or spraying 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution. Pruning or manual removal of some leaves (such as Magnolia) in winter to reduce transpiration area can have a good effect on the prevention of low temperature injury. Strengthen the control of diseases and insect pests to promote the growth of plants without autumn shoots or tender shoots. (4) the tree body can be protected by anti-freezing to the trunk of tall camellia, sweet-scented osmanthus, Michelia, Magnolia, Canary jujube, cycad, etc., which can be bundled with grass rope or thin-film trunk or sprayed with lime milk (7%-10% lime milk). The crown mask can also be bundled with plastic film or spray wax or liquid plastic can have a certain anti-freezing effect. (5) artificial heating and dispelling cold potted plants shelved in the greenhouse can be heated in the greenhouse with electric heaters or coal stoves in especially cold weather, especially in the coldest part of the day from 5: 00 to 6: 00 in the morning; cover the greenhouse with grass curtains or blankets to keep warm. In general, plants can be covered with double-layer plastic bags at home; potted flowers placed indoors can turn on the air conditioner from 6 a.m. to 10:00 if conditions permit to avoid chilling damage to Anthurium, Taro, Magnolia, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, Cymbidium, Cymbidium, etc. Flowers and trees planted on the ground, such as camellia, sweet-scented osmanthus and Michelia mollissima, can effectively prevent "radiation frost" by spraying water to the canopy at the dawn of frost, or lighting anti-frost smoke before frosting in the morning. (6) postponing germination and preventing late frost can avoid frost caused by cold wave in early spring by using growth regulators or other methods to prolong plant dormancy and delay germination. For example, spraying B9, ethephon, penicillin, potassium naphthalene acetate (250mg/kg~500mg/kg) or maleic dihydrazide (0.1%-0.2%) solution to the ground flower plants before germination or at the end of autumn has a good effect. Such as potted flowers encounter "night frost" after coming out of the room. It can be covered with double-layer large plastic film and then removed after the temperature rises during the day. 2. Treatment of cold injury of ornamental plants (1) reasonable pruning should take reasonable pruning measures for plants suffering from cold injury, but not re-pruning, otherwise it will produce harmful side effects. So how to control the amount of pruning? It is not only necessary to cut the damaged organs to the healthy part to promote the regeneration and growth of branches, but also to ensure the relative balance of underground and aboveground organs. Generally, pruning after damage can retain the 1cm~2cm of the damaged branches to prevent the healthy branches from drying down again; if it is pruned after the beginning of spring, it can be cut to a healthy place to facilitate wound healing; practice has proved that the recovery speed of the damaged plants after reasonable pruning is faster than that of re-pruning and non-pruning. For general evergreen potted woody flowers and foliage plants, all dead parts should be cut off in time and moved to a warmer environment. (2) to protect and repair the wound, for the thick flower plants which are frozen only in the dry base (northwest direction), the necrotic part can be gouged out, the wound healing agent can be smeared, and then protected with thin film to create a warmer small environment for it; for some damaged bonsai plants, they can be remedied by bridging or changing roots. (3) after strengthening the prevention and control of diseases and insect pests to ornamental plants suffering from low temperature, because their trees are weak and vulnerable to diseases and insect pests, chemical agents can be applied in combination with the prevention and control of freezing injury. Among them, the effect of fungicide plus moisturizing adhesive is better, followed by fungicide and high fat film, which is better than simple fungicide or whitening agent. Because the main fungicide can only play the role of surface disinfection and sterilization, the auxiliary moisturizing adhesive and high-fat film not only play the role of moisturizing and warming, which are conducive to the formation of cracked bark callus and promote frostbite healing. (4) prudent fertilization for freeze-damaged plants, high concentration chemical fertilizer should not be applied immediately after overwintering, but low concentration liquid fertilizer should be sprayed or poured after the temperature rises and the root system resumes its absorption function. For example, 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.3% urea solution can be alternately sprayed or poured.