Why don't camellias blossom? the temperature is too low, the air is dry / the soil is too alkaline and fertilized too frequently.

As one of the top ten famous flowers in China, Camellia is welcomed and loved by people because of its long flowering period, gorgeous flowers and charming fragrance. However, if we do not follow the method of raising camellias, camellias will not blossom, and it will be troublesome at that time! Then why don't camellias blossom? The following is the situation that two kinds of camellias do not blossom, and the reasons why they do not bloom. Follow the editor to find out.

Why don't camellias blossom? there are buds but not blossoms / buds are missing

After the camellia blossoms, the scenery is picturesque, so it is loved by flower friends. However, once the temperature is too low, improper watering, lack of light, fertilizing too frequently, or being attacked by diseases and insect pests, camellias will not bloom. On the other hand, there are two situations in which camellias do not blossom: one is that they have buds, but they do not blossom for a long time; the other is that they do not even have buds, and there are no signs of flowering after planting them for a long time.

(1) Bud does not blossom

With regard to the fact that camellias do not bloom, the first situation is to see buds, but it just does not blossom. At this time, there are two reasons: 1 is that camellias take a long time from bud to flowering, so it is normal; 2 is improper maintenance, the reasons are as follows:

1. The temperature is too low

Camellia likes a warm environment. In the bud stage, the most suitable temperature is 10-15 ℃. If the temperature suddenly drops below 5 ℃, it will cause the buds of camellias to be frostbitten and not bloom.

Remedy: if the temperature is low in winter, the flowers should be placed in a warm place without wind and sun during the day; move indoors at night, and if the indoor temperature is below 5 ℃, use plastic film bags on the flowerpots to increase the temperature.

2. Air drying

Camellia like a humid environment, in winter, the air is relatively dry, if only watering, but not sprinkling water around the plant, once the air is too dry, camellia although it has buds, it will not blossom.

Remedy: late winter and early spring, after 10:00 in the morning on a sunny day, people need to spray or spray camellias to keep the air humid. As for watering, generally watering every 3-5 days in sunny days, keep the basin moist, not too dry or too wet.

(2) the buds are missing.

With regard to the fact that the camellias do not bloom, the second situation is that the buds are invisible and have been cultivated for a long time, but there is no sign of camellias blooming. For the reasons for this phenomenon, the editor summarizes the following five points:

1. The temperature is too low

In winter, when the temperature suddenly drops below 0 ℃, it is easy to cause twig frost injury and flower buds fall off after being frozen. Camellias will not blossom without buds.

2. Soil problems

According to the growth habits of camellia, it likes loose, fertile, well-drained slightly acidic soil. And once the soil is too acidic or alkaline, it will also cause camellias not to blossom.

3. Lack of water

Camellia likes a humid environment and needs more water in the whole process of growth and development. If we can not give it enough water, it will often cause falling flowers and buds, resulting in serious wilting of the whole plant. In this regard, we had better master the watering method of camellias.

4. Fertilize too often

Camellias like to be fat, but some friends often fertilize camellias in order to make them bloom as soon as possible. As a result, camellias grow abruptly three times a year! This will make the camellias have no chance to bud and blossom, so that only the long leaves do not blossom. In this regard, we had better master the fertilization method of camellias.

5. Diseases and insect pests

In addition to the above points, being attacked by diseases and insects may also cause camellias not to blossom. The main pests of camellias are stem borer and shell worm, and the main diseases are anthrax, black coal disease and so on. Specific what medicine should be sprayed, there is a detailed introduction in the prevention and control of diseases and insect pests of camellias, so I won't say much here.

The beauty of camellias is self-evident, but if we want to see the beautiful flowers of camellias, we need to take careful care. Once the camellias do not blossom, there is no need to rush, do as mentioned above, first find out why camellias do not bloom, and then solve the problem. Finally, may everyone's camellias blossom beautifully.

How to grow Camellia in potted plants? Culture methods and matters needing attention of Camellia

Camellia, also known as Camellia, Camellia, etc., are shrubs or small trees of the genus Camellia in the Theaceae. They bloom for a long time and bloom from October to May of the following year. The blooming period is usually from January to March. Because of their graceful plant shape, bright green leaves and colorful flowers, they are cherished by the horticultural circles of the world. Let's take a look at the breeding methods and matters needing attention of camellias.

Distribution of Origin of Camellia

There are about 2000 varieties of camellias, which can be divided into 3 categories and 12 flower types. Originated in southwest China, it is mainly distributed in the Yangtze River and Pearl River basins of China, Yunnan and Korea, Japan, India and other places. Most of the open fields in central and southern China have been cultivated for 1400 years, while potted plants are planted in greenhouses in the north. There are wild species in Sichuan, Taiwan, Shandong, Jiangxi and other places.

Growth habits of Camellia

Camellia fear the wind and enjoy the sun, the terrain is high and cool, air circulation, warm and moist, good drainage, loose and fertile sandy loam, loess or humus, pH5.5~6.5 is the best. The optimum temperature is between 20 and 32 ℃, stop growing when the temperature is above 29 ℃, and the leaves will be anxious at 35 ℃, which requires a certain temperature difference. The environmental humidity is more than 70%, and most varieties can withstand the low temperature of-8 ℃. In the south of Huaihe River, they can survive the winter naturally and like acid soil, and require good air permeability. The root hair is developed and can usually be cultivated with a mixture of peat, sawn wood, laterite, humic soil or above. Camellias can be shaded in spring, autumn and winter, and 50% shading can be used in summer.

Propagation methods of Camellia

1. Cutting propagation: the cutting propagation of camellias is the most convenient, and the cutting time is the most suitable in September, or in spring. Select the well-growing, semi-lignified branches, remove the basal leaves, retain the upper 3 leaves, cut them into an oblique mouth with a sharp knife, immediately soak the incision in 200~500ppm indolebutyric acid for 15 minutes, dry it into a sand basin or vermiculite basin, water the wound for about 40 days, and take root for about 60 days. The cuttings treated with hormone took root 2-3 months earlier than those without hormone. Vermiculite is used as a slotting bed, and it takes root much faster than a sand bed.

2. Breeding by grafting: choose appropriate varieties such as tea cup tea or Camellia oleifera as rootstock and connect valuable camellias. The connecting time is usually between Ching Ming Festival and the Mid-Autumn Festival. First plant the rootstock in the flowerpot, cut off about half of the joint with a knife, the incision should be smooth, then make the cut of both sides closely fit, wrap it with plastic film, drench the rootstock twice a day, and heal after 60 days. At that time, it can be cut off and planted in the shade of trees to avoid direct sunlight. In February of the following year, the tail of the rootstock was cut off with a knife and then planted.

3. Leaf cutting propagation: leaf cutting propagation is generally used in camellia propagation, but some valuable varieties are also used because of the limitation of the source of branches or considering that the shape of the tree will be affected after sampling. Using mountain mud as the cutting substrate, it can be mixed with 1 stroke 3 river sand to facilitate ventilation and drainage, and the matrix is stored in a tile basin, and then cut in the basin. Leaf insertion is best carried out in the rainy season, take one-year-old leaves as leaf insertion material, too old is not easy to root, too young and easy to rot. Insert about 2 cm into the soil, press the soil after insertion, pour enough water, and then put it in a cool and ventilated place. Generally, it can take root in 3 months, and it can sprout and branch in the next spring.

4. High-cutting propagation: the most important feature of the high-altitude cutting method is that it can give new life to all the weak twigs on the camellias that should have been pruned. And this method has the advantages of high survival rate, quick rejuvenation and early flowering. The method is as follows: the thin branches that need to be trimmed off are girdled in an appropriate position, and the girdling length can be between 5-8 mm (generally the upper part can be left into 15-25 cm branches). The plastic film of appropriate size is bound, and the disinfected peat soil or rotten leaf soil is added into the film, and after 7 days, the lower part of the plastic film is peeled 5-8 mm, which is called double-ring peeling high insertion method.

5. Tree grafting propagation: grafting propagation of camellia has many advantages, which can maintain the excellent characters of varieties, accelerate plant growth and make it take shape rapidly and produce on a large scale. It is especially important to save panicle strips, especially for those rare varieties with few sources of panicle strips. The suitable grafting time is from June to July, when the new leaves of camellia scion have been unfolded, the temperature is high, the grafting wound heals quickly and the survival rate is high. The grafting method is the cutting method in the grafting method, which is often called "high grafting head" because of the high position of grafting.

Culture methods of camellias

1. Soil demand: soil is the fundamental condition for the growth of camellia, so the choice of soil is also very important. generally, when we choose soil, we should choose soil with high humus and slightly acidic soil. the pH value of general soil is between 5 and 6.5.

2, the temperature is suitable: the general camellia suitable growth temperature is 18-25 degrees, the environmental temperature is too high or too low is not conducive to the growth of camellia, especially in winter, move the plants to the indoor growth, move the plants to the balcony at noon, and pay attention to sunscreen in summer to prevent the temperature from being too high.

3, appropriate watering: generally camellias like to grow in a humid environment, so we should mainly water camellias, but we should pay attention to keeping the soil not too dry or too wet, generally watering more in spring and summer. this is also conducive to the growth of camellias, pay attention to less watering in winter, watering every two or three days is better.

4, appropriate fertilization: Camellia is a fertilizer-loving plant, so in the process of breeding, pay attention to fertilization, generally in the growing period, add phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which is also conducive to the growth of camellia, so that the flowers bloom more luxuriantly, at the same time, the main fertilization should not be too much.

5. Regular pruning: pruning is also very important. When camellia buds are dense, regular pruning is recommended to cut off weak branches and arrange buds. At the same time, it can also promote the absorption of nutrients.

6. pest prevention: Camellia is also easy to develop diseases and insect pests, generally there are two kinds of diseases and insect pests, black mold and anthrax, pay attention to spraying some drugs to eliminate diseases and insect pests for camellia during the period of diseases and insect pests, which can play a good role in promoting growth.

Pot Culture method of Camellia

1. Pot soil selection: according to the growth characteristics of camellia, it is appropriate to choose slightly acidic, loose, fertile and well drained mixed soil as basin soil, especially pay attention to good drainage, do not use calcareous soil, the proportion of mixed soil is 6 parts of red soil, 3 parts of orchid mud (rotten leaf soil), 1 part of fine sandy soil, the basin size should be moderate, should not be too large or too small. In general, the ratio of pot to seedling is that a camellia with a height of 40 cm and a crown of 20 cm should be planted in a purple sand basin or tile basin with a diameter of about 20 cm, and so on.

2. potting time: the potting time of camellia is November in winter and February to March in early spring. At this time, the buds are enlarged and the flowers are in full bloom, which is the most suitable for pots. When the flowers are withering and the new roots are still sprouting, if you want to put them on the pot, you must pay special attention not to hurt the roots. Generally stop potting before and after the sprouting period, because at this time the new shoots are waiting to be sent and the leaves are developed, which requires a lot of water, such as pots, new roots are injured, which can easily affect the growth and development of the year. High temperature and severe winter season also avoid pots, so as not to cause plant atrophy and death.

3. The method of potting: first put 3 or 4 pieces of broken tiles on the bottom hole of the flowerpot, then fill part of the coarse soil, plant the seedlings in the pot, fill the root with fine soil, then slowly put the larger grain of potted soil all around the pot, gently shake the basin and press it by hand to make the potted soil close to the root. Large pots can be gently compacted down with bamboo sticks, and be careful not to hurt their roots. The basin soil should account for 4% of the basin height and 5% for watering.

4. Watering method: the seedlings in the new pot are kept moist, and can be watered like other potted seedlings after 2 months, and the watering times should be determined according to the climate, based on the principle of keeping the soil moist. Generally, it can be watered more in spring to meet the needs of sprouting and shoots, summer watering should be carried out in the morning and evening, water should be prevented in the Meiyu period, timely watering in autumn drought, and watering in winter should be carried out at noon to prevent the basin soil from freezing, and the soil is dry and frozen more intensely.

5. Fertilization method: Camellia does not like fertilizer very much, so it is not necessary to apply too much fertilizer. Generally, it is 10-11 before flowering, 4-5 months after anthesis, fertilizing for 2-4 times. General use of mixed fertilizers (human feces and urine, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, phosphate fertilizer), it is best to give priority to phosphate fertilizer, nitrogen fertilizer as a deputy, in order to prevent branches from growing and flowers decreasing. All kinds of fertilizers must be fully mature and used, but rapeseed cakes and fish meal can be removed directly on the soil surface without decay, covered with a thin layer of soil, and allowed to slowly rot and seep into the soil for root absorption. The amount of fertilizer application should be mastered that the strong seedlings should be applied more, and the weak seedlings should be applied less or not. for the seedlings whose growth is too weak, replace the pot soil instead of fertilization, the effect is also very good.

6, shade against cold: Camellia likes warm and humid climate, too cold and heat are not conducive to growth and development. The potted camellias should be given plenty of sunshine in spring and Meiyu period, otherwise the branches are weak, which can easily cause bituminous disease and shell insects, or epiphytic moss, resulting in withered branches, senescence or death. The high temperature season in summer and autumn should be sheltered and cooled in time. When the temperature drops below zero in winter, it will cause buds to fall off or stamens to be frozen, affecting the quality of flowering. Therefore, the indoor overwintering temperature of potted seedlings should be kept at about 3: 4 ℃. If the temperature exceeds 16 ℃, it will promote early germination and serious defoliation and buds.

7. Disease control: the main pests of camellia are stem borer and shell worm. The main diseases are anthracnose on the leaf, black coal disease and mossy parasitism on the branches, so the damaged branches should be cut off and sprayed in time.

Matters needing attention in Camellia Culture

The main results are as follows: 1. Camellia is not suitable for intensity pruning, its flowers, leaves and buds develop for a long time, and the crown is formed evenly. Basically, there is no need for special pruning, just cut off disease and insect branches, over-dense branches, weak branches and truncated long branches.

2. Camellia is a multi-flowered tree species, especially on weak plants, if the buds are dense, it will consume too many nutrients, which is disadvantageous to the plant growth. Therefore, bud picking is an important part of cultivation and management, it is appropriate to leave 1 bud and 2 buds on each branch, only 3 buds at most, and keep a certain distance. The sparse buds can be used medicinally.

3. The flowering period of camellia is longer, and the whole flowering period is as long as half a year. Therefore, picking close to withered flowers in time is of great benefit to reduce nutrient consumption and enhance the tree potential.

Pay attention to "five" fertilization of camellias

There are several views on the topic of fertilization of camellias: 1. Do not apply fertilizer when drawing new branches, for fear that burning roots will affect the extraction of new branches. 2. Do not apply fertilizer in high temperature season, because it is easy to burn seedlings in high temperature season; 3. The reason for not fertilizing the bud after showing color is that it is afraid of bursting and falling buds. Do not apply fertilizer during flowering, on the grounds that the flowering period will be shortened and flowers will fall; 5. Do not apply fertilizer in winter, the reason is that the plant is not absorbed by fertilizing in winter, which is a waste. Let me talk about my views on the above statements:

1. Do not apply fertilizer when drawing new branches, for fear that root burning will affect the extraction of new branches. I would like to ask: does the concentration of this fertilizer have to be used to burn roots when drawing new branches? Can't you lower the concentration and use less? Or are you afraid to use it because you are afraid to master this concentration? If it is the latter, wouldn't it be absurd to confuse "dare not use" with "unsuitable" or "cannot be used"? If this plant is already short of fertilizer, is it not necessary to draw new branches?

two。 If there is no fertilization in the high temperature season, it is easy to burn the seedlings in the high temperature season. It is a big misunderstanding that fertilizer is easy to burn seedlings when the temperature is high. In high temperature conditions, fertilizer conversion will be faster, easy to volatilize, but will not burn seedlings. Usually use what concentration high temperature season with the same concentration will not burn seedlings, it is worth noting that the high temperature season soil moisture must be mastered, do not let it too dry. If you are afraid of burning seedlings, you can lower the concentration.

3. The reason for not fertilizing the buds after showing color is that they are afraid of bursting and falling buds. Although my contact time with camellias is not too long, it is not too short. It is exactly 20 years. I have seen a lot of problems and problems with camellias. I have even encountered things that I could not have dreamed of. But this "sudden bud" has never been encountered. As for the reason for it, I dare not jump to the conclusion that it has something to do with fertilization. I don't agree with it for the time being. Because I have done destructive experiments for two years in a row (using chemical fertilizer in the first year and rotten chicken manure in the second year) (using 2-3 times the usual amount at the beginning of flowering), I didn't find a bud burst, and the flowers were big and gorgeous. So I personally think that "sudden bud" should have another reason. If the budding of camellias is caused by fertilization, it must be caused by damaging fertilizer, and there will be absolutely no budding after fertilization. if there is another reason for falling buds, there must be other reasons that have nothing to do with fertilization (there are many reasons for falling buds: too weak plants, too many buds, long-term lack of light in overcast and rain, freezing damage, diseases and insect pests, and so on.) .

4. Do not apply fertilizer during flowering, on the grounds that the flowering period will be shortened and flowers will fall. Will fertilization drop flowers during flowering? The reason is the same as the third point, as long as it does not cause fertilizer damage, it will never fall. Here I would like to talk about "the flowering period will be shortened." anyone with some common sense should know that the long and short flowering period of camellias should first be related to the characteristics of the variety; moreover, it is directly related to the weather and temperature at the time of flowering; the strength and weakness of plants are also related to diseases and insect pests. Anyway, fertilization during the flowering period of camellias will shorten the flowering period, except for the factors of injury and fertilizer, with my shallow understanding of camellias and fertilizers, at least there is no theoretical basis.

5. It is a waste if there is no fertilization in winter and plants are not absorbed by fertilizing in winter. This problem is really easy to be fooled without a little expertise, and it will be clear if you know the process of fertilizer from applying to the soil to being absorbed by plants. After being applied to the soil, most of the fertilizers are absorbed and fixed into insoluble fertilizers by the soil, only a few of them are absorbed by plants, and some fertilizer plants can not be absorbed directly and need to be transformed before they can be absorbed by plants. After being fixed by soil, the release of insoluble fertilizer is weathered, decomposed and transformed into water-soluble fertilizer very slowly under the action of physical, chemical and microbial factors. Strictly speaking, winter fertilization is not to "eat" plants directly, but to prepare for the coming spring, temporarily placed in the "warehouse" (soil), and plants can "eat" fertilizer at any time when the temperature rises in the coming year. It is said that winter fertilization is a waste. I really don't know what to say, so I have to say: my friend, learn something more or less.

In a word, there is no dead law in fertilization of camellias. it depends on the specific growth status of the plant to determine what fertilizer is needed, how much fertilizer is used and how to apply it.

At the request of Hua you, I would like to introduce a stupid method of fertilization (suitable for beginners). Fertilizer take "potassium sulfate" compound fertilizer as an example (excluding "biuret"), the total content of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is less than 45%, fertilization method: solution pouring, toothpick seedling, 1-2-year seedling 0.2%, medium seedling 3-4 year seedling 0.4% UV 0.5% mai more than 5 years big seedling 0.7% UV 0.8%, it is difficult to say how often it is irrigated here, it depends on the specific situation of the seedling and the potential fertility of the basin soil.

The formula of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is based on nitrogen 1. The vegetative growth period is 1-0.5-0.8, and the reproductive growth period is 0.8-0.6-1.2. Those with special requirements can be adjusted at will.