Key points of pest control techniques in organic gardens

It has always been said to write "Pest Control", because the probability of planting pests at home is not high, so there are few opportunities to take pictures of insect pests, and so far only red spiders and aphids have been photographed. Even the whitefly didn't come this time, let alone the leaf miner. So I'm sorry, there are very few selfie pictures of diseases and insect pests, and some pests have only been encountered in the first year when I started planting, so I haven't collected enough photos of my family, so I can only show them with detailed hand drawings, with 3 pages of hand drawings.

Does the lack of pests mean that my balcony insects are not close? No, maintenance is a very important process. In fact, the occurrence of insect pests is closely related to weather conditions. For example, the general dry weather this spring has created a good opportunity for the growth of aphids. So there are as many as three aphids in my family in spring alone.

And the process of producing pests is often very sudden. One day when I was watering, I suddenly found that the stems and leaves were covered with aphids. If you do not take pest pinching or insecticidal measures on this day, then on the second and third day, aphid reproduction will reach its peak and will be stacked up. Because the excrement of aphids after sucking the juice of leaves is sweet and will attract ants, aphids will not only harm the plants themselves, but also do great harm to them. But aphids are actually the least harmful plant pests.

Preparation of green safety spray-Pest control in organic gardens has always been written about pest control, because the probability of planting pests in the home is not high, so there are few opportunities to take pictures of pests. So far, only red spiders and aphids have been photographed. Even the whitefly didn't come this time, let alone the leaf miner. So I'm sorry, there are very few selfie pictures of diseases and insect pests, and some pests have only been encountered in the first year when I started planting, so I haven't collected enough photos of my family, so I can only show them with detailed hand drawings, with 3 pages of hand drawings. Does the lack of pests mean that my balcony insects are not close? No, maintenance is a very important process. In fact, the occurrence of insect pests is closely related to weather conditions. For example, the general dry weather this spring has created a good opportunity for the growth of aphids. So there are as many as three aphids in my family in spring alone. And the process of producing pests is often very sudden. One day when I was watering, I suddenly found that the stems and leaves were covered with aphids. If you do not take pest pinching or insecticidal measures on this day, then on the second and third day, aphid reproduction will reach its peak and will be stacked up. Because the excrement of aphids after sucking the juice of leaves is sweet and will attract ants, aphids will not only harm the plants themselves, but also do great harm to them. But aphids are actually the least harmful plant pests. The same is true of the red spider, in fact, it is not a kind of spider, the scientific name is spider mite, visible to the naked eye, but much smaller than aphids, if you do not pay attention, you will not even find a little red dot on the back of the leaf. Its performance on the leaf surface is as follows: dense dots, red spiders live by sucking chlorophyll, after the chlorophyll on the leaf surface is absorbed by N more red spiders at the same time, it will appear the characteristic of yellowing and air drying. At the same time, if uncontrolled, red spiders breed unscrupulously, they can complete a generation in a week or so, and there will be cobwebs with red spiders crawling between stems and stems. So the red spider can be regarded as a kind of stubborn pest which is easy to make a comeback. Another type of whitefly that is also stubborn and which is basically high in summer is whitefly (see hand drawing). One of the reasons why whitefly is difficult to control is that it is very powerful to fly, so unlike aphids and red spiders, hand pinching can be effective because they move slowly. In the case of whitefly, basically if you squeeze it with your hand, it may fly away immediately. The flying power of whitefly is related to the amount of wax powder on its body, which is why it is called "whitefly". When it was young, it didn't have much wax powder, so it was not strong enough to fly, so it could only fly a short distance. But when it becomes an adult, the flying power is significantly enhanced because the amount of wax powder on the body becomes more and the cover becomes thicker. In general, the probability of self-sowing whitefly is very low, which basically appears on potted plants purchased in summer, so if you can't avoid buying potted plants, be sure to check to see if there are white bugs on the back of the leaves. Or when you look at it and find that a white bug that was originally docked is flying out, then it is basically whitefly. Even if it flies away, it is very likely to have laid eggs on the back of the leaf. Another species that lays eggs in the veins is the leaf miner (also known as the map worm, see hand drawing), which usually occurs easily on peas and dry lotus. The way to deal with leaf miners is wrong, and organic potions can not completely penetrate into the leaves. If you don't want to use chemicals, then the best way is to remove the diseased leaves. Some people may ask, then how can pests also appear on the plants sown by themselves? How can we avoid the harassment of pests as far as possible? Except for some flower friends will buy larger potted plants, because the seedling farm management can not be as careful as at home, so it is easy to carry viruses and pests, insect eggs. Even if you sow your own plants, there is no guarantee that there will be no pests, but the number and probability are much lower than buying potted plants, which is why I always recommend self-sowing and cutting. The soil of the plants we grow includes garden soil, peat soil, all kinds of prepared nutrient soil, and so on. In fact, no matter how finely packaged the finished soil is, it is very easy to carry eggs if it is not really thoroughly sterilized before packaging. Therefore, in the description of imported large packages of peat soil, it will be emphasized that the peat soil has been thoroughly sterilized at high temperature to ensure that it does not carry worm eggs. However, after all, there are few flower friends who will really buy 300L of the original package, and more of them will buy sub-packaged peat soil online, so the guarantee that they will not carry eggs will be invalidated. In the process of operation and contact with air, it will be more or less polluted, so it is possible to carry eggs. Similarly, even if we buy the original package of sterilized peat, we will not use it all at once, especially balcony gardeners. With the remaining peat soil, because of the storage conditions (the original packaging is vacuum packaging), including the influence of temperature and humidity, if the package is sealed, it is easy to produce moisture inside, making the originally dry and sterile peat soil moist, so there is a risk of mildew and germs. Therefore, in the process of storing peat soil, we must be careful not to tie it up completely and leave a small gap for proper air circulation. But if there is a gap, there is a danger that bugs will go in and lay eggs. Therefore, there is no way of home preservation can completely prevent the soil from maintaining the quality of the original packaging. So if you're ready to start gardening, pests will be with you. Even if you are originally a person who is afraid to see all kinds of bugs, you will definitely exercise yourself in the process. In addition to the fact that the soil may carry insect eggs, if there are flying insects, staying on the soil surface or on the plant to lay eggs, or bringing bacteria and eggs from other places to your plant, that is also a very important route of transmission. So for us, the key to prevention and control is to always carefully observe whether your plant is suffering from pests, especially on the back of the leaves, it is easy to gather eggs and pests. Pests hide on the back of the leaves and lay eggs on the back of the leaves, which is a natural self-protection mechanism. Because in the open air, the plant itself will be scoured by dew and Rain Water, and the front of the leaves will be directly exposed to sunlight, which can not adapt to the hatching of insect eggs, and the success rate of hatching will be greatly reduced. So laying eggs on the back of the leaves is not only hidden and can not be drenched to Rain Water, will not be washed away, will not be dried by the hot sun, but also can absorb the juice of the leaves. Therefore, when we spray organic potions, we must remember to spray from the back of the leaves. Because the efficacy of self-made organic potions will not be as violent as those with chemical ingredients. It is true that there is a chemical on the market that can fight and kill, but it is also because it is fighting and killing that it is extraordinarily toxic. When choosing insecticides for non-edible plants, you can consider the choice. But if you, like me, grow edible herbs, vegetables, melons and fruits, in order to be responsible for your health, you must not use chemicals. You can buy organic potions on the market, or you can use them yourself. With regard to the recipe for self-made organic potions, some flower lovers have always asked, and I have been answering them all the time, but I have never talked about it in such a specific way. Therefore, in this blog post, three kinds of organic potions with different efficacy and pest control formulations are announced in detail. I hope it will be helpful to you: 1. Two kinds of sprays: garlic olive oil spray & omnipotent organic spray 2, plant fungicides 3, eggshell anti-mollusk method first take a look at the production process diagram: (because of the content, so there are 3 pages Respectively in the introduction of three organic protection methods) detailed description: 1, spray garlic olive oil spray material: olive oil 5ml garlic 1tsp washing powder 1tsp practice: 1, press the garlic into mash, and 500ml water, washing powder and olive oil into the spray can, shake well. 2. Spray on the leaf surface and back 2-3 times a day. Explanation: because the self-protection mechanism of eggs is generally wrapped in a protective film, the protective film chemicals can penetrate, but organic potions can not play a role. So organic potions can't kill eggs. Therefore, after the pests are found, they must be sprayed 2-3 times a day for 3 days in a row to ensure that the eggs will be killed by organic potions immediately after hatching. Otherwise, if it is sprayed only once, the adults will be killed, but the new larvae will hatch again, and the complete insecticidal effect will not be achieved. Therefore, once the organic solution is sprayed, it should be sprayed for 3 days in a row to consolidate the effect. The picture on the left shows the situation after spraying garlic olive oil, and the picture on the right shows the situation before spraying: some flower friends have asked, what are the reasons for adding these three ingredients? Because the viscosity of the oil can hinder the insect's respiratory system, garlic can drive away and paralyze the insect's nervous system, while washing powder water can damage the insect's skin and dehydrate it. So why use olive oil? Olive oil is used because it is not greasy, viscosity is not high, otherwise the leaves will be greasy, and viscous oil will clog the stomata on the leaves, leaves can not breathe, will lead to yellowing and falling. Just as it is easy to wash dishes with olive oil when washing dishes while other oils need hot water to wash, this is also the reason why olive oil is healthy. Omnipotent organic spray this is a more "versatile" insecticidal spray, and it is easy to make, because it uses liquid soap, which is the kind of liquid soap we use to wash our hands. If you do not use liquid soap, you can also use soap water instead, the principle is the same, but liquid soap is more convenient to use. It can disrupt and infiltrate the cell membrane of insects, causing pests to dehydrate and die. But the key to using soapy water or liquid soap is: don't have too much concentration, or the plants will be killed together. This prescription also uses a special botanical insecticidal material-tomato leaves. In fact, tomato leaves contain several toxic alkaloids, which is a natural insecticide that is particularly effective against aphids. Also containing toxic alkaloids are potato leaves, but they do not grow tomatoes in winter or potatoes in summer. So they can be used as plant-based insecticidal materials in winter and summer: tomato leaves in summer and potato leaves in winter. Materials: liquid soap 1tbsp water 1L garlic 3tbsp ginger 3tbsp pepper (cannot use sweet pepper) 50g tomato leaves 30g boiling water requirement is enough to cover these raw materials completely: 1, put all the ingredients in a small pot, cover 2 with boiling water, place overnight 3, filter residue 4, put the filtrate with water, liquid soap into spray pot 5, shake well, spray on the leaf surface and leaf back. Note: please use all homemade sprays in summer, or put them in the refrigerator, otherwise they will ferment. 2. Plant fungicides plants will not only produce insect pests, but also get diseases, such as gray mold, powdery mildew and black spot are very common plant diseases, and highly contagious. If the diseased leaves are not removed or measures are not taken, all the leaves on the plant will be infected, as if covered with white powder. Black spot is also a disease caused by fungi, with irregular black or dark brown round spots on the leaves. Generally speaking, the previous practice is to buy chlorothalonil and methyl thiophanate (methyl topiramate) as a fungicide to spray foliar with water. But although chlorothalonil is an extremely weak fungicide, it is also a pesticide. If we can make our own fungicides, then even this weak poison can be avoided? The answer is that fungicides are not difficult to make, and we can use the materials at hand to make fungicides by ourselves. Materials: baking soda powder 1tsp water 1L soap shavings 1tsp practice: 1, put baking soda, water and soap shavings into the spray can 2, shake well, spray on the infected leaves Note: seriously infected leaves must be removed, sprayed leaves must also be kept normal green, that is, newly infected leaves and uninfected leaves. The purpose of this method is to control the extent of infection, not to remove white powder. Eggshell molluscs are the things I fear most, such as slugs (slugs), snails and ground tigers, etc. Whenever I see them, their hairs will stand up. And molluscs do great harm to plants, for example, molluscs like to eat leaves, so if you see large holes and gaps in the leaves, you have to see if they exist. How to prevent snails from climbing to settle on your balcony on a wet day? A good way is to use crushed eggshells. Materials: the number of washed eggshells can be rolled at will: 1. Put the eggshells into a container and mash them with a rolling pin (without crushing). 2. Place the mashed eggshells on the soil to prevent molluscs from invading. This is a purely physical method and has no effect on the environment. The reason for cleaning the eggshell first is that there will be egg whites and other residues in the unwashed eggshell, which will deteriorate and cause the attention of small flying insects if they are placed in the outdoor environment for a long time. Mashed eggshells are harmful to molluscs because of their sharp corners, so they don't like to cross any sharp, sharp eggshells. Laying broken eggshells on the soil can help prevent the invasion of these pests. These are the most basic organic prevention and control methods, and of course there are other organic protection methods, such as some people use coffee powder, and some people kill red spiders with milk (but personally, it is extremely not recommended, because milk produces heat and stench during decay. This is the so-called fermentation process, which can cause other insect pests and even cause root burning when it seeps into the soil. In fact, there are many plant diseases and insect pests, and the content of a short article is limited, so it is impossible to write all of them clearly, especially about the prevention and control of Xiaohefei, which is very popular, because the methods of producing, preventing, and eliminating Xiaohefei are quite complicated. I'm going to write a separate article to explain it. It is hoped that today's content will be helpful to organic gardeners (organic horticulture), which is fighting in the first line of pest control. Key techniques for postharvest pest control of loquat

At present, most loquat fruits have been harvested. In addition to strengthening fertilizer and water management, pest control is also an important prerequisite to ensure the normal growth, development, flowering and fruiting of fruit trees in the later stage. The main diseases and insect pests after fruit harvest of loquat are leaf spot, pear planthopper, mites, aphids and so on. Combined with the recent weather conditions, the occurrence characteristics and control techniques of these diseases and insect pests are introduced as follows.

1. Recent occurrence of diseases and insect pests. 1. Loquat leaf spot: it is mainly characterized by gray spots, spots, angular spots and wheel patterns, which occur seriously in the rainy season in summer and autumn. The disease not only harms leaves, makes leaves yellowing, withering, perforation and shedding, but also affects the growth of new shoots, which ultimately affects photosynthesis. It usually occurs more seriously from April to September. According to a recent survey, the disease in a few poorly managed orchards is very serious, and 50% of the leaves have fallen off. The occurrence of high temperature and rainy weather in the later stage is conducive to the occurrence of the disease, so the prevention and control of leaf spot can not be ignored. 2. Pear planthopper: the occurrence of wood lice is common on loquat in our region in recent years, which occurs more than one generation a year, and occurs more seriously in the dry season. After fruit picking, the damaged parts are mainly concentrated in the cracks at the base of the petiole, and they have to secrete mucus and have strong resistance to Rain Water scouring. Pear planthopper occurred heavily on loquat in summer and autumn last year, accumulating a large number of insect sources. This year, affected by warm winter weather, early drought, and recent high temperature, are conducive to the occurrence of pear planthopper, especially in parks with pear mixed cropping or intercropping. The occurrence of pear planthopper is more serious, and the rate of insect infestation in seriously damaged orchards is more than 80%. 3. Nymph mites of loquat: nymph mites are mainly harmful to new shoots and spikes, and they are common harmful mites on loquat in our region. 4. Other insect pests: yellow caterpillar mainly harms new shoots and leaves, while aphids damage new shoots, so control should be strengthened after fruit harvest.

2. Comprehensive prevention and control technical measures: 1. Agricultural measures: strengthen fertilizer and water management, avoid being too dry and too wet, enhance tree potential, improve disease resistance, remove fallen leaves in time, combine fertilization, properly plough the soil, and reduce the number of sources of diseases and insect pests. Try to reduce the intercropping, mixed cropping or intercropping of pear and loquat trees. 2. Physical control: install insecticidal lamps in the field, use lights to trap and kill adults of pests such as wood lice and yellow caterpillars, and use yellow boards to trap and kill aphids. 3. Biological control: when the number of single-leaf mites is less than 2, predatory mites can be used to control all kinds of mites; at the same time, it is recommended to retain grass, attract natural enemies, and use the natural control ability of natural enemies to control the occurrence of pests, such as using seven-star lady beetles to control aphids. 4. Chemical control: seize the critical period and apply pesticides for prevention and control. When the average number of single-leaf mites reached 3-5, 34% acarate 2000-2500 times or 2.4% avermectin 3000 times were applied to control nymph mites; when wood lice were used in the stage of young larvae, 25% Aktae 8000 times or 2.5% wood lice could be used for control. Shigao, Bobang or Xinsheng can be used to control leaf spot disease.