What about cyclamen worms? control of common diseases and pests of cyclamen / spraying with dichlorvos

Cyclamen is a highly ornamental indoor flower with bright colors and beautiful meaning, so it is the first choice for many flower friends. However, for beginners, cyclamen cultivation is always negligent, resulting in insect pests, then what about cyclamen worms? First choice, we do not have to worry, but should find out what kind of insect pest, and then solve the problem soon. The following is the common pest control of cyclamen selected by the editor. You must have a look at those who love flowers.

First, cyclamen to grow what to do, to find the cause

Indoor farming is not as good as outdoor breeding. All conditions need to be created. In the breeding methods of cyclamen, we introduce indoor potted plants. Cyclamen has requirements on soil, light, water and so on. Once operated improperly, worms or diseases will grow on the leaves. As for what to do with cyclamen worms, take a look at the symptoms and solutions of the following pests, and you will know what to do.

(1) cyclamen pest symptoms and solutions.

① mites

Mites, one of the main diseases and insect pests of cyclamen, suck up juice mainly in young leaves and buds. The symptoms are as follows: cyclamen leaves will curl inward along the leaf edge, the leaves will turn brown and glossy, the leaves will wrinkle and deform, the buds will turn black and rotten, the petals will not extend, and the flowers will bloom abnormally.

Solution: the application of dicofol, daben, acarate emulsion, etc., when spraying, we must pay attention to spray the liquid on the young leaves, buds and flower buds in the center of the bulb, so as to cause damage to pests. Mites are highly resistant to drugs, and several drugs should be used alternately.

② slug

Slug is also one of the common diseases and insect pests of cyclamen. It mainly attacks the top of young leaves and buds. When attacked by the insect, cyclamen leaves will have gaps or holes, and young leaves will be incomplete.

Solution: we directly capture, in addition, in order to prevent the recurrence of the bug, we should reduce the humidity of the greenhouse ground air, clean up the internal environment of the greenhouse in time, and minimize the living environment of slugs.

③ aphid

Aphids are one of the main pests that damage flowers, including cyclamen naturally. It mainly infringes on the back of cyclamen leaves, sucking the juice of young leaves and buds. When invaded, the leaves will wrinkle, wither and yellow, and even fall off.

Solution: go to the market to buy an armyworm board and use it to kill; in addition, you can spray dichlorvos, omethoate, aphid pine, Uranus and so on. When spraying, pay attention to spray the liquid to the back of the leaves, aphids have strong drug resistance, and several drugs should be applied alternately.

④ cabbage worm

Pieris rapae parasites in cyclamen buds, young leaves, new and old leaves, buds, petals and other places, it likes to feed on the back of the leaves. The symptom of the pest is that the leaves are bitten into holes and gaps at the edges of the leaves.

Solution: when the insect is found, it is sprayed with drugs such as enemy killing, trichlorfon, dichlorvos, etc.; biological pesticide B1 suspension can also be used for leaf back spray control during the larval danger period; in addition, the environment around cyclamen should also be properly cleaned so that it can grow healthily.

⑤ cyclamen fly

The pest mainly invades the internal tissue of the rhizome and corm of cyclamen, causing the injured part to be overflowing and sunken, and then causing the leaves to wilt and yellow, and in serious cases, it can lead to plant death.

Solution: if it is a larva, it can be killed by root irrigation such as trichlorfon, dichlorvos, omethoate and phoxim; if it is an adult, it can be sprayed and killed by trichlorfon and dichlorvos.

(2) the disease symptoms of cyclamen and their solutions.

In addition to being attacked by insects, the disease also endangers the health of cyclamen all the time. It is understood that there are four main diseases of cyclamen, namely, blight, leaf rot, Fusarium wilt and anthrax, among which leaf spot will be very serious, and we should remedy it in time. The specific symptoms and solutions are as follows:

① blight

The disease mainly harms seedlings and generally occurs after emergence to the stage of transplanting. When getting this disease, the base of cyclamen's stem will produce brown disease spot, expand around the stem, and finally dry up and die. Rhizoctonia solani is infected by Rhizoctonia solani, which is easy to occur under the condition of low temperature and humidity.

Solution: 50% Likujing 1000 times liquid can be sprayed or irrigated at the initial stage of the disease; it is very troublesome to get this disease, so we should give priority to prevention. We can spray chemicals to prevent blight within 3 days after cyclamen sowing and germination in the greenhouse. Prevention should be sprayed regularly throughout the seedling stage.

② leaf rot

Leaf rot is one of the common diseases and insect pests of cyclamen. It mainly harms leaves, petioles, buds, tubers and other parts of cyclamen.

Petiole symptoms: black-brown watery spots, leaf loss of vitality, yellowing. The vascular bundles of the diseased petiole turn brown and spread to the tuber, causing the buds to turn black and form buds to wither.

Symptoms on the tuber: vascular bundles turn brown near the bud point, then turn dark brown and rot, rot from the vascular bundles to all the bulbs, and finally wither and wilt on the ground.

Solution: copper preparation can be used in the early stage of the disease, such as 70% can kill 1000 times or 1 million units of oxytetracycline 1000 times liquid spray or root irrigation to prevent the disease.

③ Fusarium wilt

After cyclamen got this disease, the initial symptom was the loss of vitality of some leaves from the ground, the leaves were slightly yellowed, and then the yellowed leaves increased and gradually spread upward, except for the top leaves were intact, the rest withered, the tubers were cut open, and the vascular bundles turned brown.

Solution: 50% carbendazim can be used at the initial stage of the disease, 50% carbendazim 1000 times spray. Or irrigate the root with 50% root rot ning 1000 times, 70% mancozeb 500 times. The dosage of root irrigation is 200 ml per plant, once every 7 to 10 days, 3 to 4 times in a row. Generally, the control effect of root irrigation is better than that of spray.

④ anthracnose

Anthrax, one of the common diseases and insect pests of cyclamen, occurs in Tahu all the year round. Symptoms: cyclamen leaves will produce round disease spots, the middle of the disease spot is light brown or white, there are many small black spots, that is conidia, serious damage will lead to leaf death.

Solution: at the initial stage of the disease, 80% anthrax Fumei 800 times, 70% mancozeb 500 times prevention and treatment; in addition, we also need to cut off and burn diseased leaves in time.

⑤ gray mold

Botrytis cinerea occurs in winter. Once you encounter rainy, wet, sunless weather, the disease will get out of hand. When suffering from this disease, cyclamen leaves, branches, inflorescences will appear brown spots, with the aggravation of the disease spread throughout the plant.

Solution: strong maintenance and management in winter, improve indoor temperature, enhance light transmittance and reduce humidity. Once the diseased plant is found, immediately move the plant to the ventilated place and put it in the sun, which can play an effective control effect. In addition, when the disease is serious, Bordeaux liquid can be sprayed for treatment.

On cyclamen pest control, Xiaobian introduced here, a small plant, there are a lot of diseases and insect pests, it is incredible. Therefore, in order to avoid the impact of diseases and insect pests, flower friends in the process of breeding cyclamen, must pay attention to maintenance, otherwise it will not be easy to get sick. Of course, even if you are sick, it can be solved by following the above method.

How to cultivate lilies how to teach you how to cultivate potted lilies like thousands of creatures, lilies want to thrive and eventually produce beautiful flowers, the most fundamental conditions are: the quality of the ball itself is good, the environment is suitable, and management keeps up. And from the planned planting to the final flower withering, you should always care about her and carefully manage the lilies, so as to ensure that the lilies are as you wish and pleasing to the eye. As for whether we can make money, we still need to see whether the market can help, but the flower friends are self-appreciating, which is not within the scope of this article. 1. Successful ordering of high-quality seed balls is the foundation of successful planting. However, because the ball is not an industrial product, it is a crop, and it is an imported product, facing various national quality inspection requirements, there will always be various problems. No matter which company, at home or abroad, is sure that there is no problem with our order (supply, supply quality), it must be a liar. Such being the case, we can only choose reliable suppliers to reduce the probability of problems with planting balls.

High-quality lily bulbs: a common problem with strong, clean, well-rooted lily bulbs is Penicillium infection (pictured below). If the infection does not endanger the base plate of the bulb, it is not a big problem.

Freezing injury-the buds of the bulbs turn black (as shown in the following picture). If they are serious, they can only be scrapped.

2. Environment: the common slogan is "grass has life". I remember that a Dutch expert also said, "if you can drink water, it can also drink; where you can live, it can also." Grass also has life, tells the true meaning, you must be like your own baby, to touch it, to feel it, and then change its environment at any time, it can repay you with beautiful flowers. 1) soil: soil structure: although all soils, lilies can grow. However, it is very important to ensure that the cultivated soil has a good structure and good drainage throughout the growth stage. Poor soil structure and consolidation often make lily roots grow fragile or even die due to lack of oxygen, or due to poor drainage, resulting in the death of lily roots caused by Pythium, resulting in poor growth or even death of lilies. The picture below shows the death of the roots due to the lack of oxygen due to the heavy rain during the typhoon. Of course, the soil is too hardened and the situation is more and more serious.

Soil pH and salinity: maintaining a proper soil pH is very important for the root development and correct nutrient absorption of lilies. If the pH value is too low, it will lead to excessive absorption of mineral nutrients (such as iron, manganese, aluminum), while too high pH value will lead to insufficient absorption of phosphorus, manganese and iron. We all know that the deficiency is bad, but we may not know it all if we go too far. 100 contract is sensitive to salt, too high salt will form hard, fragile and yellowing, brown roots, reduce the absorption of water by the roots, affect the quality of lilies, and even cause the death of lily roots and lily plants. Soil salinity is often affected by the fertilizer and moisture used. The following picture used to be a very beautiful root system, but it is a pity that some or all of the roots died due to the use of immature organic fertilizer.

Soil pathogens: lilies often cause plant death due to soil fungi harming their roots. The common fungi are Rhizoctonia, Pythium and Phytophthora. Rhizoctonia is harmful only when the buds are still in the soil, and Pythium can be mitigated by improving soil drainage. Generally speaking, it is necessary to use broad-spectrum fungicides several times in the whole growth process, such as chlorothalonil and so on. The following picture shows the damage caused by Rhizoctonia and Phytophthora.

From the above, we can see how critical the suitable soil is to the success of cultivation. If the soil is not good, no matter how much energy you put into it, you can only treat each other with tearful eyes. Therefore, it is best to choose soil that has not planted lilies before to grow lilies, of course, the most ideal is to choose peat (domestic peat), in order to reduce the difficulty of management, it is very wise to use 80% peat and add 20% perlite or loose scale medium. If taking into account the base fertilizer, the use of controlled release fertilizer is the most ideal, if you have a preference for organic fertilizer, please be sure to use rotten organic fertilizer.

With such a good root system, why not have beautiful lilies? 2) temperature rooting period temperature: 2-3 weeks after planting, it is very important to maintain an appropriate low temperature (10-12 degrees) to ensure that lilies can grow good stems and take roots. However, most of the time, we can not guarantee such ideal weather, so professional growers use cold storage to take root, and we can use the fresh-keeping layer of the refrigerator to put the lily bulb with peat (peat is not too wet. It is a good idea to wrap (breathable) in the fresh-keeping layer of the refrigerator. Although the low temperature will prolong the growth period, I think you should not mind managing it for a few more days.

In the case of rooting, in the hot season, it takes root first and is planting. Temperature during the growth period: although the ideal temperature for lilies is 15-25 degrees, there is no way to control the temperature of nature, but in extreme cases, we still have to avoid it. Lilies are prone to frost injury when they are below 5 degrees, and higher than 35 degrees. The growth period will be greatly shortened, and the quality will decline accordingly. In summer when the sun is strong, we can reduce the temperature by shading and strengthening ventilation. How comfortable it will be to enjoy a cool breeze in the shade of trees in summer. 3) relative humidity: the appropriate relative humidity of lily should be between 70-80%, but this is for professional producers to produce in greenhouse. There is no need to consider that lilies are planted in the yard or on the balcony. In greenhouses, poor growth is often caused by high humidity, but it has not been seen that even continuous rain leads to poor growth of lilies outdoors (provided that the soil is well drained and fungicides are often used to control Botrytis cinerea), of course, slight effects will still be encountered. This is because the ventilation in the greenhouse is not ideal, people will feel very stuffy when they go in, and plants will feel the same way. Give some pictures of the damage to lily leaves caused by high humidity in the greenhouse.

Because the humidity is too high, the water pressure in the plant is too high, and finally the leaves are damaged due to the rupture of the cell wall, and the serious buds are gone; this is a physiological disease, not a bacterial hazard, and fungicides are useless. The use of calcium fertilizer can increase the resistance of cell wall and reduce the harm.

Because of the long-term overcast and rain, the leaves of the plants are very tender, and because the plants have to remove too much water from the body, the stomata of the leaves are always open and open for a long time, so that the stomata of the leaves eventually lose the function of closing (originally they will open-close and adjust by themselves according to climatic conditions). After the overcast and rain, the stomata of the leaves still open for transpiration and drainage, resulting in the loss of water and paper, and even scorching of the leaves. 4) shading: shading can control temperature, relative humidity and light. In summer, the sun is usually so strong that 80% of the light can be obscured 2-3 weeks after planting (before budding). After budding, because Asian lily and LA hybrid lily are sensitive to light, lack of light will lead to bud elimination, which can be appropriately less shaded, such as 50% shading, oriental lily is insensitive to light and can still cover 50-70% of the light. General links of family potted lilies: 1. Preparation: 1) cultivation medium: it is suggested that we should choose peat soil as the main medium to plant. 2) Fertilizer: it is recommended to mix 3 kg of 14-14-14 slow-release fertilizer and 0.5 kg of calcium nitrate as base fertilizer per cubic meter. 3) pots: 13 cm pots can plant 3 12-14 cm balls; 15 cm pots can plant 3 12-14 14-16 cm balls; in this way, choose the basin according to your own situation. The best height of the basin is more than 12 cm; 2. Receive the lily ball: after long-distance logistics, when we receive the lily ball, it is thawed. Normally, there should be a little small bud, as long as the length of the bud is not more than 5 cm, and it is not broken, then even the curved bud does not have any problem, please rest assured to plant boldly. If you receive the ball, you can soak it in 600-800 times of chlorothalonil for 30 minutes. 3, seed: 1) first stir the medium and base fertilizer evenly, water until the hand can drop water; 2) spread 2-3 cm stirred medium at the bottom of the basin; 3) put the ball bud head outward, plant in the basin; 4) cover the ball with a medium of about 8 cm; 5) pour water thoroughly and place it in shade to avoid sunlight as much as possible. 4, it is recommended that the planting quantity in each pot is 1, 3, 5 balls, the odd number is better, if more than 5, the odd and even numbers do not matter. In the temperature from June to July, buds can be seen in 7 days. 1. Medium: peat soil

2. Fertilizer: controlled release fertilizer calcium nitrate

3. Basin: 160 two-color basin, planting 3 balls

4. Seed 1) the correct planting method: the bud head of the ball rests against the basin wall.

Incorrect planting method: the ball bud head rests to the middle, and the consequence: the buds are all concentrated in the middle, which is not good-looking.

Of course, if you plant at will, when the buds grow, it will be very disorderly and unattractive. As for potted plants, it is best to wait for the ball to have a 3-5 cm bud, so that the orientation of the bud can be controlled, so that the overall appearance of the plant is better. What is the growth environment after planting? Two weeks after planting, lilies still need relatively low temperatures to continue to have good roots, so potted lilies can choose places where there is no direct sunlight; lilies planted in open fields can use sunshade nets to block direct sunlight. However, whether it is potted or cultivated in the open field, after the lily sees the bud, the lily should see the light immediately, the potted plant can be moved to a place with sufficient light, and the sunshade must be removed in the open field, otherwise, it will affect the number of buds and the quality of flowering of lilies, especially Yabai, which is more sensitive to light and when serious, the buds all fall off. Proper topdressing can make the stems of lilies stronger, especially in hot summer. However, it should be noted that the concentration should be lighter than usual, so as not to cause fertilizer damage. Topdressing can also choose high-potassium lily special fertilizer 15-15-30 to mix with water, the concentration of 1000-1500ppm, that is, 1 gram of water-soluble fertilizer added to 1-1.5 liters of water, mix evenly. The characteristics of each variety are different, and the time of flowering is also different. But the temperature will also affect the flowering sooner or later. For the regular flowering time of specific varieties, please see the product information of each variety. Here, I would like to remind the northernmost friends that if the temperature is below 10 degrees at night, please move the lilies indoors at night. Generally speaking, the time from rooting to flowering of Dongbai is about 100 days, while that of Yabai is only about 60 days. Therefore, when flower friends choose varieties, please choose varieties according to local climatic conditions and their own conservation conditions, so as to avoid being frozen off at the moment of flowering, and it is a pity that previous painstaking efforts have been wasted. Note: 1. As mentioned earlier, "it is a good idea to use the fresh-keeping layer of the refrigerator to wrap the lily seed ball with peat (peat is not too wet." it is a good idea to take root in the fresh-keeping layer of the refrigerator. 2-3 weeks of rooting period, so from the freezer temperature of 5 degrees, when taken out, the outside temperature is at least 25 degrees, can you adapt? Answer: yes, professional lily cut flower producer, take out the lily ball after rooting in the cold storage, and the temperature in the greenhouse is as high as 40 degrees. However, please pay attention to shading in the early stage, and reduce the degree of shading after budding. If shading has been re-shaded up to 80%, Asian lilies may lose buds due to lack of light. 2. How to plant a ball after flower failure? after flower failure, please cut off the remaining flowers. Of course, the stems and leaves are preserved. At the same time, please maintain normally, usually in the low temperature season (November-December), the aboveground stem will die, the ball is in the ground, at this stage, please reduce the use of water and fertilizer, after the beginning of spring, as long as the ball is not rotten or eaten by worms, will grow and blossom again. Plant lilies in the yard, you can not care about it, the next year it will grow out well, can be year after year, and there will be more and more lilies. 3. Send some pictures of lilies planted in pots from abroad.

How ★ potted lilies belong to cool flowers, that is, areas with cool climate and large temperature difference between day and night are most suitable for growing lilies. The lily does not have the brown old skin outside the tulip bulb and must be kept at a constant temperature of 2 degrees before it is planted in the soil, otherwise it will quickly take root and rot easily. So after we buy lily bulbs from the market, we must plant them as soon as possible, not for long. First, be ready to plant the ball with buds above and roots below, so don't turn it upside down! Some balls have not yet grown roots, it depends on the scale opening upward is the bud! Seed balls should be disinfected before planting, soaked in imported carbendazim 1000 times solution for 20 minutes, washed with clean water, and then can be planted after drying.

Second, the prepared soil and pot lily like the sandy soil with good fertility, water retention and drainage. Peat: River sand: perlite = 2:2:1, you can also use cactus soil, but you can't use clay anyway. Because lilies belong to bulb flowers with two layers of roots, the container should be selected in a deeper basin.

Third, planting first put 10-15 cm of soil at the bottom of the basin and put the ball. If there are three heads in a pot, the head of the ball will be placed toward the edge of the flowerpot, that is, tilted to the edge of the pot, so that the plants can be evenly distributed after germination. Cover the top of the ball with soil of about 5 cm, pour water thoroughly and leave it in a cool place for 1-2 days.

Fourth, conservation moisture: keep the soil moist, spray water twice in the morning and evening during the period from bud to flowering. In addition, 1000 times of imported carbendazim solution is used to irrigate twice a month. Fertilization: fertilization is usually applied once a month.

Common problems in lily cultivation 1. Leaf burning causes: physiological lack of calcium, occurrence conditions: overweight shade, poor ventilation, high air humidity, continuous overcast days, low soil pH value, bad plant roots and other conditions are prone to preventive measures: improve ventilation conditions, increase plant water transpiration. Proper lighting in advance to refine seedlings. The use of rooting treatment and replanting is beneficial to the development of roots and the absorption of calcium ions. Leaf burning can also be reduced by peeling leaves (separating clasped leaves) before the leaf burning period. Keep dry, avoid stagnant water on the plant for a long time to increase the application of calcium fertilizer such as calcium nitrate, can be carried out by root fertilization or foliar fertilization.

2. The reason of burning root and burning root: the salt concentration of soil solution is too high A, the salinization of soil itself is serious, the EC value is too high; B, improper fertilization, excessive fertilization at one time, resulting in excessive concentration of soil solution; C, lack of water, the soil is too dry, it will also cause the concentration of soil solution to increase. Preventive measures: do not choose the soil with high salt content; do not put the substrate or fertilizer with high salt content directly on the planting ball; use the method of applying thin fertilizer frequently to avoid using a large amount of fertilizer at one time, resulting in root burning; often check the root system, such as root burning, should be watered and sprayed with foliar fertilizer.

3. High temperature has a serious impact on lilies. High temperature should be avoided as far as possible, including high temperature such as soil and environment. If the temperature exceeds 30 ℃, it is called high temperature.

4. Common leaf yellowing

5. Epidemic prevention measures: A. give priority to prevention, avoid persistent high soil moisture (especially to avoid flooding) and excessive air humidity, and try to avoid air humidity above 90%. B, disinfect soil and seed balls before planting, you can choose dimethazone, ethyl phosphorus, aluminum manganese zinc, carbendazim and other C to avoid continuous cropping in epidemic crops with common pathogen hosts, such as continuous cropping with Mantianxing, carnation, Solanaceae, melons and other vegetables. That is: planted all over the sky star, carnation, eggplant, melon soil try to avoid replanting lilies. 6. preventive measures against root rot: controlling soil moisture, disinfecting soil with carbendazim, dimethazone and carbendazim to reduce nitrogen fertilizer use, especially ammonia nitrogen, and appropriately increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.

7. Preventive measures of Fusarium stem rot: planting bulbs and soil disinfection before planting; reducing soil temperature

8. Botrytis cinerea-avoid persistent high humidity environment

9. Blind flower (no flower) Blind flower reason: A. insufficient supply of water and fertilizer: Lily is a flower variety that needs more water and fertilizer supply. in the early stage, it mainly depends on the nutrition supply of seed bulb, and in the middle and later stage, it mainly depends on fertilizer and water supply and photosynthesis to maintain plant growth. If the supply of water and fertilizer is not good, it will seriously affect the growth and development of lilies, resulting in thick and thin branches, weak plants, blind flower buds and so on. B, too high temperature: too high temperature will seriously affect the quality of lilies: lilies like cool climate, too high temperature, too fast growth, less material accumulation in plants, and high consumption of organic matter, which will cause malnutrition, and heavy ones will cause blind flowers to drop buds. C, lack of light: lack of light, too dense planting, poor ventilation, affect plant photosynthesis, less material accumulation, easy to cause plant weakness or even bud drop. Especially the OT type lily is sensitive to light, and it is easy to eliminate buds if the light is not enough. D, insufficient nutrients of bulbs: the size of bulbs is too small, the harvest of bulbs is too early, and the storage time is too long, which will also make the bulbs lack nutrients, which can easily cause lily blind flowers and buds. E, the cultivation depth is too deep: planting too deep, resulting in lily unearthed slowly, will consume a large part of the bulb nutrition, so that the plant nutrients are insufficient, poor growth, heavy cases lead to blind flowers. F, poor root growth of lily: poor root system and insufficient absorptive capacity of lily, resulting in insufficient plant nutrition, insufficient nutrition for bud growth, inhibition of bud growth, and blind flowers and buds.

Variety selection and planting method of ★ lily. The basic introduction of lilies is difficult to raise. In fact, I am not a bulb fan, the order of many years of cultivation is easy to cultivate: (frequently asked in parentheses) Fengyulan > Zhu Dinghong (expensive. ) = freesia (lodging) = Portuguese (hair) = saffron (degeneration) > lily (rotten ball) > daffodils (rotten ball degeneration and slow growth) > hyacinth (rotten ball degenerated) > tulip (rotten ball once) > buttercup (one word rotten) > anemone (rotten from the beginning). There are too many varieties of sorrel, some are as good as grass. Some are divine difficult to raise big rock tree and cyclamen as herbs are better, not included in the ranking, the popularity of Iris bulb is not high, and not included in the visible, lilies are not only suitable for cut flowers in florists, but also as family potted plants. Courtyard perennials are very good hybrids. In fact, most of the parents are from China, are authentic Chinese flowers, and are very adapted to our climate (except Dongbai from Japan). Variety selection easy-to-raise order LA > Abel (A) > Tiehan (L) = LO > OT > Dongbai (O) LA is the improvement of Yabai, giving birth faster, big flower LO can be considered as the improvement of Ironball, the flower color is richer, the aroma is heavier, OT improves Dongbai's heat tolerance, reproduction rate and ease of maintenance aroma Dongbai = OT > Iron cannon = LO > > LA Abel = 0 the last two kinds of Yabai basically have no fragrance, and the flower friends who hate lily aroma are light sweet fragrance. The night is thicker. The first two kinds of strong fragrance, Dongbai is florist lily, OT is sweet and some choking, LO is a mixture of iron cannon and Dongbai, the aroma is very weak in hot weather. 1. The lily usually has the heaviest fragrance 1-2 days after blooming, and then gradually fades. It is normal that the lily is not very fragrant at first. The flower scent of lilies is not harmful to the human body, nor will it cause allergies, but if the aroma is too strong, it may stimulate the olfactory nerves of sensitive people and cause dizziness, excitement, sleeplessness and other symptoms. Lily pollen is easy to stain clothing and skin, do not rinse with water, it will stick more firmly, should be glued with transparent tape. Even if cutting off stamens is a good way to mainstream hybrid classification, and its detailed advantages and disadvantages 1. Asian lily (Asiatic) has many advantages: many flowers, high and low plants, many buds, upward flowering, early flowering (2-3 months from the next plant), easy breeding, fast reproduction, extremely cold tolerance (overwintering in open land in the northeast). Disadvantages: small flowers (12-15cm), no aroma, high light requirements in bud period, lack of light and easy bud extinction represent varieties: many, most can rest assured to choose There is also the pot effect of plant height of about 20-30cm in the field of pot planting in spring, the pot diameter is 15cm, the right side is the result of dwarf treatment, and the leftmost is the original plant height, the actual plant height is less than the nominal plant height (110cm), which is the height Springfield after two to three years of cultivation.

Tinos

two。 Oriental lily (Oriental), commonly known as perfume lily together with OT, florist cut flower advantages: large fragrant flowers (15-20cm), low lighting requirements, flat flowers, broad leaves, flowers floral and gorgeous shortcomings: some varieties are thin and easy to fall, not very heat-resistant, slow reproduction, late flowering, heavy yellowing feet represent varieties: Sorbonne Sorbonne (light pink flower of the florist) Siberian Siberia (florist white flowers) potted Dongbai effect (famous variety Stargazer), very beautiful, notice that the leaves are less and thicker than Yabai.

Sorbonne Sorbonne

3. Musk / iron cannon lily (Longiflorum), also known as Easter lily: beautiful and elegant flower shape, easy to raise, moisture-resistant, fast reproduction, poor cold resistance, subtropical origin, no need for low-temperature dormancy disadvantages: only white (all pink and yellow lines are LO hybrids, this year's online stores are wrong), pollen is easy to defile petal representative varieties: have heard of the famous White Paradise White Heaven bar

4.LO hybrid-recommended advantages: inherit the flower type and ease of cultivation of iron cannon, flower color and aroma of Dongbai, very good breeding and easy reproduction, large flowers (18-25cm), rapid development, no need for low temperature dormancy disadvantages: at high temperature, the single florescence is not long, the bud is less, the color becomes dim when the light is insufficient, and the domestic varieties are less representative: Trianfield Triumphator is its outstanding representative, especially recommended. One of the lilies that any novice can feed (often sold out. ) small special pot effect, pay attention to it is relatively high, large flowers

The flower color is very strong in strong light and low temperature.

5.OT hybrid-recommended advantages: inherited the excellent genes of trumpet lily (Trumpet, the parent is Sichuan Minjiang lily, etc.), the flower color is richer than Dongbai, heat-resistant and easy to raise, strong plants, no need for low-temperature dormancy. The stem is very thick, the flower is big (20-25cm), the fragrance is rich, suits the courtyard and the big container, abroad commonly known as Tree lily (tree lily) shortcoming: the first year often does not have many flowers, some varieties flowers are deformed, the flowers are easy to droop on behalf of the varieties: Conca D'or, Yelloween, Nymph, wide color coverage, especially the yellow series that Dongbai does not have: yellow varieties have a small number of flower bracts except Yelin. The 16-18cm ball also has only two or three bud perennial wooden doors (Congardeo). Pay attention to height and flower number.

Yerolin, with large flowers and rich fruit sweetness

6.LA hybrids-recommended advantages: breeding more crazy than Abel, large flowers, some varieties with light fragrance, this kind of like crazy ball, not so easy to eliminate bud shortcomings: the same flower type is stiff, flowers are easy to deform, the number of flowers is less than 100 on behalf of varieties: red Alert (Red Alert), Diamond Party (Diamond Party), etc., basically can be selected at will, there is no taboo red alert pot effect Compared with Yabai, the flowers are larger and the leaves are wider, the flower pattern of the iron cannon is not inherited, and the aroma is occasional.

Red alert.

7. The most common edible lily is the Chinese native species Lilium lancifolium, whose plant is tall and slender, petals curled and easy to raise, but not suitable for indoor ornamental value may not be as good as that of Dutch hybrids. It is one of the parents of Asian lilies. The inverted drooping flowers are sometimes used by profiteers to pass for perfume lilies.

8. Double lilies are divided into Yabai and Dongbai, with the same characteristics and maintenance as above, which are more like double Zhu, but the characteristics of lilies are not strong, easy to deformity and incomplete petalization.

three。 Indoor maintenance 1. The light is not very fastidious, the closed balcony can also be planted, there is no problem on both sides of the east and west for at least 3 hours, 4-6 hours in the west sun may burn Dongbai leaves, should be moderate protection to pay attention to Yabai's bud such as peanuts must not be short of light, otherwise the bud 2. Soil quality, this is the most important, permeable and breathable is the first essence. I use peat perlite, but in fact, the material is not limited, as long as it is soft and light. Prevent rotten peat (peat, sterilized nutrient soil, compost soil, coconut bran): perlite (or various granular plants) = 2:1 to 1:1 more perlite can be added to the soil near the bulb. in this way, you can rest assured that the soil can be evenly mixed with slow-release fertilizer / organic fertilizer, and don't pile it all at the bottom of the ball. It is easy to rot the ball if it is not absorbed. With the exception of Dongbai, the other varieties are very resistant to drought (especially when planted on the ground), so it is better to lack than to flood, and so the basin soil becomes lighter, or the topsoil is dry and then watered again. Each watering can depend on the weight of the pot. When it becomes light, the sign of watering too much is rotten ball, a large number of lower leaves turn yellow, the buds are scorched, and the top leaves are scorched. For one thing, we should be on guard against the situation of little watering. Both bulbs and fleshy stems can store water, so when you encounter wilting, you should first suspect rotten bulbs rather than lack of water. Fertilizer and bulbous lily like fertilizer, but should be applied thin and frequently, big fertilizer will burn leaves (leaf tip withered and scorched, flower bud withered). If one-time cultivation does not need to be fertilized every year, then post-anthesis fertilization is very important. Nitrogen and potassium fertilizer is the main nutrient absorption rate of lily: nitrogen: phosphorus: potassium = 10:1:12, but phosphate fertilizer is easy to be fixed and not easy to absorb. So if you use fertilizer at the rate of 1:1:1 or 1Ranger 1.5, you can remember to apply thin fertilizer frequently. With a little bit of watering each time, there is no need for thick fertilizer. It needs more fertilizer than other bulbs when they sprout. When they grow rapidly, they mainly apply nitrogen fertilizer, when they appear, they mainly apply phosphorus and potash fertilizer, and when they bloom, they do not apply fertilizer, and they begin to raise balls immediately after flowering. The proportion of fertilizer such as the soil of 5.pH Dongbai is slightly acidic (5. 5-6), and the peat itself is acidic enough for other varieties. In fact, temperature lilies are bulbs planted in spring, planted in spring, summer flowers, autumn and winter storage (for most parts of the country), for the hot and humid areas in summer, as well as Hong Kong and Taiwan, you can consider cold storage in summer, planting in autumn, and keeping the temperature at about 12 degrees Celsius when watching flowers take root in winter and spring, which is most conducive to stem rooting and growth. In summer, pay attention to protect against high temperature damage, low temperature can prolong florescence, among which OT is very heat-resistant so it can open against the scorching sun. The flowers of Dongbai often wither quickly when the sun is strongest. Dormancy in winter when the temperature is low (0-10 degrees), dormancy (leaves fall yellow, then cut off dead stems) general Abel and Dongbai need a cold period of at least 1.5-3 months (4-5 degrees) to start the next year to grow lilies with iron cannon (LO,LA,L) and trumpet (T) genes can be planted year-round, without deliberately creating a cold period. As long as the natural low temperature is lower than 20 degrees in winter, the varieties that are not heat-tolerant can be refrigerated at 4 degrees. The varieties that are not heat-tolerant may dormancy 1-2 months after flowering, but early dormancy is disadvantageous to raising bulbs and compound flowers. What's more, cutting off the stems and leaves as soon as they are finished blooming and dropping the leaves early often means rotten balls or serious adverse conditions 8. How to plant without soaking and disinfecting bath for the basal root (the old root at the bottom of the ball) as far as possible, the seriously rotten part can be cut off and the top of the lily ball should be at least a soil layer with 5cm on the soil surface. The distance between the ball and the ball is more than 2-3cm, and the bud head should be slightly inclined to the basin wall rather than to the center of the basin. The planting depth lily is a two-layer root system, and the one under the ball is the basal root (which can maintain the function for several years). The absorption function is weak, and the ball received is often rotten and dilapidated. There is no need to worry that several layers of thick and white roots will be produced at the base of the newly born bud, which is called stem rooting (annual). This is the main force that absorbs nutrients. Therefore, if you can't put the ball top on the soil surface, a moderate deep planting is beneficial to avoid heat injury and raise the ball, then the formula is drainage layer + 3-5cm subsoil + ball + 5-10cm cover soil, is it very simple, basin height at least 15cm fixed root water, and then patiently wait, do not dig around, buds break the soil and then enter the normal management as shown in the figure.

Here is a new novice planting method, "adding soil step by step-- different from the old method of adding soil once." I forgot to mention that when planting lilies for the first time, you can only let the soil cover the lily ball, and then do not cover it first, leaving only 8-10cm space above the soil surface to continue adding soil. Pour water thoroughly, wait for the bud to drill out from the top of the ball, and then gradually add soil to the normal depth (the top of the ball to the soil surface 5-10cm) the advantage is to meet everyone's curiosity and eagerness, avoid fear of the ball not germinating, want to dig but do not dare to dig the entanglement, at the same time, you can adjust the direction of the bud when the bud grows, so that the bud drills from the depths of the soil in a crooked direction, and it is better to be watered through for the first time. (for reference only, this method will not interfere with stem rooting and growth) 10. After anthesis and dormancy, you can reduce the vase, usually wither for 5-7 days, or you can watch it directly. The cut length should not exceed 1max 3 of the plant height (at least leave 2cm 3, the more you leave, the better, otherwise what to raise the ball). Stamens can be cut off to prevent defiling the petals and remove the remnants after flowers to prevent seed formation as far as possible not to be forced dormancy. In this way, obedience to the lily's own will can best achieve a good compound flower effect and reproduction coefficient. Keep it in the original basin during the dormant period, almost without watering, give some water every month to keep the peat slightly moist, you can dig balls into the refrigerator in spring in the hot areas in summer, plant Yabai in autumn, and the iron cannon will sprout when the temperature rises from February to March in the eastern hundred years, or it may sprout in autumn and let it grow and bloom naturally. Courtyard cultivation this is a very simple planting depth of 15cm-20cm in the north, shallow planting in the south, shallow planting in the south, planting OT,LO,LA in all parts of China except south and northeast China, planting pure iron cannon in the south of Liaoning and planting in the south of the Yellow River, where the land can be planted very cold but not covered with snow, 5cm can be covered with branches, straw, compost and so on. If there is snow, don't be afraid of frostbite and cold resistance A > LA > > LO = OT > O > > L the cold in late spring may hurt the newly budded lilies, need some cover and protection, pay attention to deep ploughing, ridging the clayey soil, adding more organic matter to facilitate drainage (the key point), and occasionally watering them in dry and hot summer. Propagation methods of lilies 1. When the main ball grows to a certain size, the bud will naturally split into two or more conjoined balls (basically the size of flowering). This process begins after flowering and takes place every year. It is the simplest way to breed, that is, the speed of reproduction mentioned in the introduction of varieties, that is, the speed of L=LA=A > LO=OT > > O Dongbai may be divided every year, maybe not, and related to cultivation and maintenance, the first five kinds of balls are very diligent when the number of balls is too large. When the buds are crowded, they can be broken with their hands when they are dormant in winter. Abel, which will not hurt the ball, is likely to send multiple buds in the first year. This kind of ball often blossoms badly, but several buds are divided into two in a year. In the middle is the residue of the old stem of that year.

two。 The stem bulb is actually a small ball produced on the root of the stem, and the quantity and quality are closely related to the quality of the stem rooting. the quality of cultivation in that year has a lot to do with the flowering size and development of the bulb after 1-3 years, which is equivalent to the second growth stage of the bulb (basal leaf-stem-flower). LA,LO is also a leader in this kind of propagation, especially LA. In the first year, the cauline bulb is likely to reach the size of the flowering bulb. Here is the bulb around the root of the stem.

3. Asian lilies with bulbs, called bulbs, often take root and fall off in the soil when they mature, and grow only a grass-like leaf in the first year, dormant in winter, and then dormancy in the second year. In the third year, the scape blossoms slowly, but the number is purple and black after maturity.

4. Scales are very similar to the reproduction of red cuttings. Healthy scales (or scales that fall off accidentally) are removed and placed obliquely in sterilized and moist peat or vermiculite. After a month, small bulbs can grow and can be planted separately. The reproduction coefficient is large, but the slow development process is the same as the bulb.

5. Seeds-not recommended by enthusiasts. Except for native species such as iron cannon and Minjiang River, most hybrids either have empty shells or grow slowly, and the offspring of self-crossing will mutate 6. 5%. Cutting-not recommended for Taiwan lily (Lilium formosanum) hybrid, can root LO and LA if the cut flower stem moisturizing, can grow small beads, can separate planting, but the stem itself is difficult to root is basically useless to Dongbai, so the flower shop cut lily is a uniaxial monocotyledon, once the terminal bud is damaged, the reproductive growth (flowering) of the year stops, so never try to top, cuttage six. FAQ basic florist's questions all focus on the first two items. Bulb rot-controlling watering, dry rather than wet caused by fungi, stagnant water is the main cause, it is often too late to find, if the bulb disk intact can peel off rotten scales, disinfection and storage symptoms are changeable, leaf margin yellowing, foot leaves fall off, plant wilting and watering is not relieved, OT, LO, LA and other flower buds blackening, growth stagnation and so on, are very likely to be rotten bulbs 2. Buds are common in Yabai because of lack of light (continuous rain, put indoors). The phenomenon is that the small bud changes from green to brown, and then scorched, so it will not blossom that year and continue to cultivate the ball well. The main reason for the disappearance of lilies of non-Asian blood is rotten balls. 3. The leaves burn thick fertilizer, and the immature fertilizer may harm the root system, making the leaves seriously scorched and the bud withered. Wash the basin soil with heavy water and change the soil if necessary. Dongbai is easier to burn leaves. Pay attention to the chloride ion in watering and fertilization. fluorine ion should be less (more phosphate fertilizer such as superphosphate, use with caution) 4. Break the same bud treatment, continue to raise the ball, the lily will not send lateral branches, terminal bud break means that the year did not open 5. 5%. The common fault of yellowing and shedding lilies in foot leaves, especially in Dongbai and some sub-lilies, is not obvious in LA,LO,OT. If it is not serious, it basically does not affect ornamental, it can be used as a reflection of plant health. Insect pests are rare, occasionally attacked by shell beetles, Japanese beetles, aphids and so on. Snails may nibble on flower buds and pay attention to protection when planting on the ground. Botrytis cinerea is common in greenhouses with high humidity, and when it is hot and rainy, mildew-like spots appear on the leaves, which can be eliminated by spraying fungicides. Off-season germination for particularly strong varieties such as iron cannon, it is possible to sprout new buds as they approach dormancy in winter, allowing it to grow by 8. 5%. Do not germinate this is the novice most afraid of the situation, fortunately, if not because of rotten ball, rotten bud, this kind of situation is very rare, often the cold period of planting ball is not enough to break dormancy, this situation can be dealt with in the refrigerator, there are signs of germination and then sow 9. Abnormal buds and double flowers often appear in cold-treated autumn bulbs, which are related to the long cold treatment time and generally do not affect planting seven. Select and store the annual suppliers will have spring balls and autumn balls, spring is a good season to buy lilies, and now every place is booking. The bulbs bought from February to April are often fresh bulbs with very short buds or no buds. Autumn will provide cold treatment (breaking dormancy for autumn flowering) and pre-rooting (providing suitable temperature for stem rooting and growth in summer). The delivery period is August-September, and there are fewer varieties. It is recommended to plant indoors in the north and in Liangguang area. The outdoor species in the north are often dried by the north wind before flowering. When the balls are received, the buds are already long and easy to break. Do not rough the lily balls and are not resistant to storage, because there is no protective skin in the outer layer. Once dehydrated, it can be left in the original basin when dormant in winter. Watering the soil once a month to keep the soil slightly wet can be done by filling a plastic bag with wet peat, burying the stems and putting them in the freezer (not freezing! Save, wait for breaking dormancy and sprouting, take out and plant eight. Other basins: the larger the basin, the deeper the better, as long as the drainage is smooth, for the family 14-16cm ball, the 18cm basin can grow three 16-18cm balls, the 20cm basin can grow three balls, or you can use the 15cm-18cm basin alone, this is the bottom line of the basin, you can increase the diameter of the basin as appropriate, do not use the shallow basin, the size of the ball mentioned above: the ball of 14-16cm is mainly LQuery Apen LA. LO varieties Dongbai and OT generally need to buy 16-18cm bulb number to ensure that the bulb perimeter has a great relationship with the number of flowers. Generally, 12-14cm begins to have flowers, 18-20cm is exhibition grade, iron cannon line, OT line can grow to the perimeter 25cm plant height: when you just raise lilies, you look at the data 90100110120 and even 130cm thinks it's scary, but the plant height of mature plants that can only be achieved by planting in the ground for about two years is far below the data value. Moreover, the stems of modern hybrids are so stout that they will not be lodged and broken even if they have many flowers (the potted plants in the first year are about 1x2 to 2canth3 of standard height). In theory, moderate high temperature shortens plant height, blossoms ahead of time, weak light and low temperature make stems elongate, flowering is delayed by Yabai from subplanting to flowering for 70-90 days, Dongbai 90-120 days, and the order of other varieties is early A.