MySheen

Introduction of rose cuttage technology to teach you how to propagate plants

Published: 2024-11-22 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/22, Rose, also known as monthly red, is an evergreen semi-evergreen low shrub of Rosaceae. Rose flowers, usually red, or pink, occasionally white and yellow, can be used as ornamental plants, can also be used as medicinal plants, also known as rose flowers

When we usually sit in the car, we can often see that all kinds of plants are planted on both sides of the road, one of which is very eye-catching, its flowers are very large, and the colors are also very gorgeous. Some even have two or three colors on one at the same time, that is, rose. When it comes to this kind of plant, friends should often see it, because its planting range in our country is very wide, even in the remote border, we can also see its figure.

Why is the number of this plant so large? The reason is that its reproduction is relatively simple, whether with seeds or directly with branches, can grow a large area. So, how can its branches be used to reproduce?

1. Choose strong branches

If you want to make its survival rate higher, you must first select strong branches, and those branches with incomplete leaves, not green leaves or branches with wounds on the branches cannot be used, otherwise its poles will easily turn black.

2. Disinfect and cut branches with scissors and other tools

Take out the tools first, then soak them in hot water or white wine for about two quarters of an hour, then take them out to dry. Cut off the pre-selected branches with tools, and be careful to cut them diagonally, otherwise it will easily hurt the branches.

3. Cuttage

Insert the cut branches diagonally into the soil, and add a little more peat when mixing the soil. In addition, it is OK to insert it directly into the water, but it is easy to rot. However, no matter which method is used, it is necessary to ensure that there is enough water, and even if you use soil, you should add a basin to the bottom of the container and fill it with water.

In short, cutting is not very difficult, friends can also give it a try.

Cutting Seedling technique of Rose

Rose is a plant of the genus Rosaceae and is the main product of the flower industry in the world. Rose reproduction can be divided into asexual reproduction and sexual reproduction. Sexual reproduction is often used to cultivate new varieties or to produce rootstocks. Asexual propagation has cutting, ramet, striping and tissue culture and other methods, cutting propagation can not only maintain the excellent characteristics of the female parent, but also simple and easy to learn, fast reproduction speed and high survival rate.

1. Cutting time

It can be carried out in both spring and autumn. Spring is from late April to the end of May, when the climate is mild, the branches are strong, they can take root one month after planting, and the survival rate is high. Autumn cutting is carried out from late August to the end of October, when the cutting is greatly affected by the temperature difference between day and night, the rooting is relatively slow, it takes 40 to 50 days to take root, and the survival rate is slightly lower than that of spring cutting.

2. Prepare the seedbed

Location, the cuttage bed should be in the place of deep soil layer, loose structure, good permeability, good drainage and air circulation.

Specification, width 1m, length 3m (it should be noted that the size of the nursery bed does not have much effect on the survival of cuttings, it should be determined according to the needs, when a large number of propagation is needed, a slightly larger one can be selected, otherwise it can be reduced.

3. Matrix selection.

Rose cuttings can also take root when directly inserted into ordinary soil, but the survival rate is not high and is not suitable for mass production. Therefore, generally choose fine sand as the substrate, fine sand had better not been used, in order to prevent cuttings from rooting in the process of decay, you can add formaldehyde in the fine sand, press 5ml/m3, and put the fine sand on the clean beach and turn it about 3 times, so that formaldehyde can be completely volatilized, 3 days later can fill the bed. When sowing and raising Elaeagnus angustifolia seeds to fill fine sand, it should be evenly assisted on the seedling bed, gently suppressed, and watered once, and the sand surface should be gently scraped flat with wood blocks when the water is not dry.

4. Harvest branches

Choose the robust branches of the upper part of the plant which are vigorous in growth and free from diseases and insect pests (powdery mildew and black spot). It is not good to be too old and too tender, and the survival rate is affected, and the branches that have just withered flowers are the best. After cutting the branches, in order to prevent powdery mildew and black coal disease in the cutting process, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 1000 times.

5. Cuttings treatment

When too many branches are harvested, they should be soaked in water or stacked under the shade (should be often sprayed to moisturize).

Pruning the harvested branches, first cut off the residual flowers on the upper part of the branches, select the middle and lower parts of the branches, cut a section about every 10cm, as a cuttage, and retain 3-4 axillary buds on it. Leave no leaves or only 1 or 2 leaves at the top to prevent the loss of water and nutrients in the cuttings, facilitate the rooting of cuttings and control the growth of branches and leaves. The upper end of the cuttings is cut into a flat mouth, and the lower end is cut into an oblique mouth, which is several millimeters away from the axillary buds. The cut should be smooth in order to form healing tissue, which is conducive to rooting and cannot be cut and draped, otherwise it will be difficult to take root and form seedlings. The collected branches should be cut as soon as possible, usually within 1-2 hours.

6. Cutting method

Do as much as possible with pruning, with treatment, with cutting. Cuttings can not hurt the skin, generally use 0.6~0.8cm 's small stick (chopstick size) to cut a small hole in the cutter, and then put the cuttings in the hole. The depth of cuttage is 1 × 3 of the length of cuttings, and the row spacing of plants is 10cm × 15cm. After cutting, the sand is gently compacted by hand. Cuttings should pay attention to maintain the polarity of cuttings, especially those without leaves, can not be cut down (so that the bud eyes upward), otherwise affect the survival rate, with leaves it is best to make the leaves in one direction (bright direction). After all, sprinkle a small amount of fine sand and water once, so that the cuttings are closely combined with the sand body.

Arch shed, covered with white plastic film and sunshade net. The plastic shed can adjust the temperature and humidity of the soil and air, and the sunshade net can prevent direct sunlight and reduce the temperature. In addition to covering the sunshade net on the top of the seedbed, it is also necessary to hang curtains on the east and west side of the seedbed to reduce sunlight in the morning and evening. The best temperature for rooting is 20-25 ℃, which is too high. Besides covering the sunshade net, it can also be watered and ventilated to cool down.

7. Plug-in management

The temperature should not be too high after cutting: too high will make the axillary buds of cuttings sprout quickly and grow into shoots. Inexperienced growers may think that this is a good phenomenon, in fact, it is a sign of cuttage failure, because the cuttings need to take root, if you first take new branches, which consumes the nutrients of the branches, the rooting rate will be affected lightly, and the whole cuttings will die. Therefore, in order to promote rooting, the temperature should be generally controlled at 22: 26 ℃, and the air temperature should be equal to the ground temperature as far as possible. when the temperature is too high, it can be watered on the shed or on the ground, or properly ventilated.

Watering, early cutting, water supply should not be too much, generally 7 to 10 days watering once. One month later, the panicle began to take root and shoot, and the water consumption increased gradually, and it should be watered once every 3-5 days. The amount of watering should be determined according to soil moisture and air humidity, so that the soil is moderately dry and wet. The best moisture condition after cutting: the field capacity of the seedling bed is about 80%, and the air relative humidity is 80% and 90%. If the humidity is too high, the amount of watering can be controlled and ventilation can be strengthened; if the humidity is too low, the amount of watering and spraying times can be increased.

Weeding, pull up the weeds in the bed in time, but do not move the seedlings.

8. Seedling transplanting

Under the condition of ambient temperature of 22 ~ 26 ℃, cuttings can take root after about 1 month. At this time, the plastic film can be opened every morning and evening to ventilate the seedlings and gradually prolong their ventilation and light time, so that the seedlings can basically adapt to the external environmental conditions. After 7 days and 10 days, the seedlings can be transplanted to the greenhouse or flowerpot. The soil used for transplanting should be sandy loam without infiltration, otherwise it is easy to cause rotting roots of seedlings. The seedlings were watered once one day before transplanting. Note that the whole transplanting process should not be exposed to direct sunlight.

9. Seedling stage management

Rose seedlings on the pot should be maintained in the shade shed or other shade for 7 days for 10 days. During this period, they should often spray water and moisturize, receive some H light every morning and evening for the first few days, and then gradually extend the sunlight exposure time. As the roots of the seedlings are not very developed, so do not rush to fertilize, at least after 3 weeks, and then apply thin fertilizer and water every 10 days or so. Although the rose seedlings survive, some growers always dislike that the seedlings grow too slowly, so they promote the seedlings by topdressing according to their own wishes, which is not advisable, because rose seedlings go through a lag period of 1-2 months from picking, cutting, rooting and transplanting to the stage of rapid growth. In this question, rose seedlings have to gradually adapt to the external environment before they can be born quickly. if growers promote seedlings by fertilization as they wish, things often go against their wishes, resulting in the death of young seedlings. When after a long period of lag, rose seedlings naturally enter the rapid growth stage, when some plants grow some buds, in order to avoid the consumption of nutrients, these buds should be cut off in time. After 1-2 management, the rose seedlings can come out of the nursery, and the growers can ship them to the market or transplant them to the field or larger flowerpots as needed.

Cutting propagation technology of rose there are two kinds of rose propagation: asexual reproduction and sexual reproduction. Sexual reproduction is often used to cultivate new varieties or to produce rootstocks. Asexual propagation has cutting, ramet, striping and tissue culture and other methods, cutting propagation can not only maintain the excellent characteristics of the female parent, but also simple and easy to learn, fast reproduction speed and high survival rate.

1. Cutting time

It can be carried out in both spring and autumn. Spring is from late April to the end of May, when the climate is mild, the branches are strong, they can take root one month after planting, and the survival rate is high. Autumn cutting is carried out from late August to the end of October, when the cutting is affected by the large temperature difference between day and night, the rooting is relatively slow, it takes about 40 to 50 days to take root, and the survival rate is slightly lower than that of spring cutting.

II. Preparation of nursery land

In the Xiangyang area, the plots with deep soil layer, loose structure, good permeability, rich humus and good drainage are selected as the inserting bed. Per mu of bed mixed with 200 kg of rotten farm manure (pig manure, cow manure), 25 kg of calcium superphosphate as base fertilizer, and then mixed with 20 to 30 kg of fire soil ash or grain bran ash to facilitate ventilation. In order to reduce the incidence of cutting seedlings, the soil should be disinfected before cutting: spray the soil with 50% special wettable powder 500-800 times, then cover it with plastic film for 3 to 4 days, and cut 1 week after opening the film.

Selection and treatment of cuttings

From the middle and young mother trees of excellent varieties, 1-2-year-old spring shoots or current year-old autumn shoots with sturdy, full, strong growth potential and no diseases and insect pests were selected as cuttings. This kind of branch has high growth substance content and strong metabolic activity, so it is not only easy to survive, but also has good seedling quality and high price. Those who transport branches from other places for cuttings should pay attention to moisturizing and shading in order to maintain the vitality of the branches. The cuttings are about 8 to 12 centimeters long. Cut off the lower leaves, leaving only the upper 3 to 5 leaves. The survival rate of cuttings can be improved by pressing 50 cuttings into a bundle and soaking the lower part of the cuttings in 100ppmGGR6 solution for 1 to 2 hours.

4. Cutting

Do as much as possible with pruning, with treatment, with cutting. Do not hurt the skin when cutting, generally use a small stick or finger to insert a small hole in the bed, and then put the cuttings into the hole. The cutting depth is from 1 × 2 to 2 × 3 of the cuttage length, and the row spacing is 10 × 15 cm. After insertion, the cuttings are compacted with hands and watered once, so that the cuttings are closely combined with the soil.

Fifth, plug-in management

1. Set up arch shed and cover sunshade net. The plastic shed can adjust the temperature and humidity of the soil and air, and the sunshade net can prevent direct sunlight and reduce the temperature. The light transmittance of the sunshade net should be 20% to 30%. In addition to covering the sunshade net on the top of the seedbed, it is also necessary to hang curtains on the east and west side of the seedbed to reduce sunlight in the morning and evening. The best rooting temperature of rose is from 20 ℃ to 25 ℃. The temperature is too high. Besides covering the sunshade net, it can also be watered and ventilated.

two。 Water it. In the early stage of cuttage, the cuttings have not yet germinated leaves, and the water supply should not be too much. It can be watered once every 7 to 10 days. After a month, the panicle begins to root and shoot, and the water consumption increases gradually, which should be irrigated every 3 to 5 days. The amount of water should be determined according to soil moisture and air humidity, so that the soil is moderately dry and wet. The best moisture condition after cutting is that the field capacity of the seedling bed is about 80%, and the air relative humidity is 80% to 90%. If the humidity is too high, the amount of watering can be controlled and ventilation can be strengthened; if the humidity is too low, the amount of watering and spraying times can be increased.

3. Fertilize. The amount of fertilizer needed for cuttings is small, and the basic fertilizer has been applied during soil preparation, so there is no need for soil fertilization before seedling transplanting, but foliar fertilization should be carried out. That is, after cutting for one month, 0.3% urea liquid fertilizer and 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate liquid fertilizer are used in turn every half a month for foliar fertilization to promote rooting.

4. Weed. To pull out the weeds in the bed in time, do not move the seedlings.

5. Refining seedlings. Half a year after the seedlings take root, the ventilation and light time should be properly prolonged to improve the seedlings' ability to adapt to the external environment.

 
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