The silver leaf chrysanthemum wilted and taught you how to raise this kind of flower correctly.

Silver-leaf chrysanthemum is also called snow-leaf chrysanthemum, its leaves are mostly gray-white or gray-green. There is a layer of furry pilose on the leaves, which looks very beautiful. Its flowers are very small and show a yellow color. Compared with its leaves, it is obvious that the leaves will be more attractive.

Chrysanthemum morifolium is a kind of cold-resistant flower, so it is suitable for potted plants as well as on land. Although Chrysanthemum morifolium is not a difficult plant to raise, there are also many flower friends who will appear leaf wilting and other phenomena when breeding. So how to cultivate this kind of flowers so that the leaves will not wilt?

1. Requirements for lighting

Many flower lovers like to put the flowers in the semi-shady ventilated place, usually will not change the position of the flowers. Although there is nothing wrong with this practice, no matter what flowers do not get light for a long time, there will be wilting leaves, yellowing leaves and so on.

The editor advises everyone to put Chrysanthemum morifolium in full light for 2 hours every day when the light is soft. If you don't have that much nursing time, you can leave it for an hour a day. When the sun is strong, put it back in a cool and ventilated place.

2. The skill of watering

Chrysanthemum morifolium is not too demanding for water, so don't water it every day. In the process of breeding, it can be found that the surface of the basin soil is dry and then watered, and the amount of water should not be too much. If the water is watered too much, there will be water accumulation in the flowerpot, and the water that cannot be discharged will lead to rotting roots.

If you really accidentally pour too much water, there will be water floating on the surface of the basin soil. First pour out the floating water on the surface of the basin, and then stick some air holes in the soil to facilitate the evaporation of water, so that there will be no accumulated water.

3. Be careful not to hurt the root when changing the basin

When the flower grows to a certain extent, it is necessary to change its pot. When changing pots, you must be careful not to hurt the roots. if you really do not operate well, keep the original pot soil, put it in a new flowerpot, and add some new soil.

What kind of flower plant is Chrysanthemum morifolium? Pictures and brief introduction of Chrysanthemum morifolium

English name: silver leaf chrysanthemum

Nickname: snow leaf chrysanthemum

Latin scientific name: Senecio cineraria

Families and genera: Compositae

Distribution of origin: southern Europe

Chrysanthemum morifolium is a perennial herb of the genus Chrysanthemum of Compositae. The plant is much branched, usually 50-80 cm in height, preferring cool, moist, sunny climate and loose and fertile sandy soil or clayey soil rich in organic matter. Its silver-white leaves look like a white cloud from a distance, which is planted with other colors of pure flowers, and is an important foliage plant in the flower bed.

Senecio cineraria Chrysanthemum how to raise Chrysanthemum / how to breed Chrysanthemum how to breed Chrysanthemum Senecio cineraria introduction of Chrysanthemum morifolium is a perennial herb of the genus Chrysanthemum of Compositae. The plant is much branched, generally 50-80 cm in height, the leaves are pinnately divided from 1 to 2, and both sides are silvery pilose. Its silver-white leaves look like a white cloud from a distance, which is planted with other colors of pure flowers, and is an important foliage plant in the flower bed. The morphological characteristics of Chrysanthemum morifolium are strongly branched, tufted, spoon-shaped or feather-lobed leaves, the whole plant is densely covered with white tomentose, head yellow, unisomorphic flower type. During the growth of seedlings, the heart can be removed to promote branching, nitrogen fertilizer should not be excessive, so as to avoid excessive growth of leaves, scarcity of white villi and loss of ornamental value. Silver leaf chrysanthemum into spoon-shaped or pinnately lobed leaves, both sides are silvery pilose, the leaf quality is thin, the leaf blade is lacked, such as snowflake pattern, with long white villi. Inflorescences solitary branches apical, flowers purplish red. The whole plant is white tomentose. The plant is much branched, the leaves are pinnately divided from one to two, the front and back are silvery pilose, the head is solitary branch top, the flowers are small and yellow, the flowering period is from June to September, and the seeds begin to mature in July. The ecological habits of Chrysanthemum morifolium originated in southern Europe, more hardy, in the Yangtze River basin can survive the winter in the open. Can not bear the heat, and is easy to die in high temperature and humidity. Like cool, moist, sunny climate and loose and fertile sandy loam or clayey loam rich in organic matter. The optimum temperature for growth was 20 ℃-25 ℃, and the sprouting ability was the strongest at 25 ℃. The distribution area of Chrysanthemum morifolium is native to southern Europe, which is hardy and can survive the winter in the south of Hebei Province and the Yangtze River Basin. Suitable areas: East China, South China, Southwest China. The reproduction mode of Chrysanthemum morifolium seed propagation Chrysanthemum commonly used seed reproduction. Generally sowed in the open field seedbed at the end of August and the beginning of September, it sprouted neatly in about half a month, and grew slowly in the seedling stage. When there are 4 true leaves, put on the 5-inch pot or transplant in the field, and then plant it in the pot after the beginning of the spring of the following year. During the growth period, its height can be controlled and the plant diameter can be increased by coring. Silver leaf chrysanthemum is a fertilizer-loving plant. After one or two weeks on the pot, thin manure should be applied or 0.1% urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate should be sprayed on the leaf surface, and fertilizer should be applied once a week thereafter. It was found that there were no diseases and insect pests in the cultivation. The specific methods are as follows: as the whole growing period is more afraid of heat, and the optimum temperature for sowing is 15: 20 ℃, autumn sowing is often carried out after the middle and late September: the matrix is used for disinfection, the best way is to put it into the pot to stir-fry, any diseases and insects can be scalded to death. Soak the seeds in warm hot water (the temperature is about the same as facial wash) for 12 to 24 hours until the seeds absorb water and expand. For common seeds that germinate easily, this work does not have to be done. For tiny seeds that are difficult to pick up with hands or other tools, wet one end of the toothpick with water, stick the seeds one by one on the surface of the matrix, cover the substrate 1 cm thick, and then put the seeding pot into the water. The depth of the water is 1 stroke 2 feet 2 tap 3 of the height of the flowerpot, allowing the water to soak up slowly. For larger seeds that can be picked up by hand or other tools, put the seeds directly into the substrate and order them at a distance of 3 × 3 cm. After sowing, the substrate was covered, and the thickness of the cover was 2-3 times that of the seed. After sowing, the sowing matrix can be wet with sprayers and fine-hole showers, and then when the pot soil is slightly dry, we should still pay attention to watering so as not to wash the seeds up; management after sowing: after sowing in autumn, when you encounter cold waves and low temperatures, you can wrap the flowerpot with plastic film to keep warm and humid. After the seedlings are unearthed, the film should be opened in time, and the seedlings should be exposed to the sun before 9:30 every morning or after 3:30 in the afternoon, otherwise the seedlings will grow very weakly; after most of the seeds come out, you need to plant seedlings properly: pull out the diseased and unhealthy seedlings so that there is some space between the seedlings left behind. When most of the seedlings have two or more leaves, they can be transplanted into the pot. Cutting propagation of Chrysanthemum morifolium can also be propagated by cutting. Cut the tender shoot of about 10 cm, remove the two leaves at the base, soak it in 250 times Yada rooting nutrient solution for about 30 minutes, insert it into the cutting pool mixed with perlite and vermiculite, spray with full light, and form a good root system for about 20 days. It should be noted that cuttings are not easy to survive in high temperature and humidity. By comparison, it was found that the growth of cutting seedlings was not as good as that of seed sowing seedlings, the diameter was not large, and the plants were shorter. The management after cutting is as follows: temperature: the optimum temperature for rooting of cuttings is 18 ℃ ~ 25 ℃, which is lower than 18 ℃, and it is difficult and slow for cuttings to take root; when the temperature is higher than 25 ℃, the cuttings are easy to be infected by pathogens and rot, and the higher the temperature, the greater the proportion of rot. When there is a low temperature after cutting, the heat preservation measure is mainly to wrap the flowerpot or container used for cutting with thin film; when the temperature is too high after cutting, the cooling measure is mainly to shade the cuttings, to cover 50-80% of the sun, and at the same time, spray the cuttings 3-5 times a day, with more times of spraying when the temperature is higher in sunny days, lower temperatures and higher temperatures in rainy days, but less or no spraying times. Humidity: the relative humidity of the air must be kept at 750.85% after cutting. You can increase the humidity by spraying the cuttings 1-3 times a day, the higher the temperature in sunny days, the more times you spray, and the lower the temperature in cloudy and rainy days, the less or no spraying. But with excessive spraying, cuttings are easy to be infected by bacteria and rot, because many kinds of bacteria exist in the water. Light: cutting propagation is inseparable from sunlight, but the stronger the light is, the higher the temperature in the cuttings is, the more exuberant the transpiration of cuttings is, and the more water is consumed, which is not conducive to the survival of cuttings. Therefore, after cutting, the sun must be shaded by 50% to 80%, and then gradually removed after the root system grows: remove the sunscreen at 4:00 every sunny day, and cover it before 9:00 the next day. Transplanting Chrysanthemum morifolium: when the seedlings are installed in the pot, put a coarse-grained matrix or ceramsite 2cm thick at the bottom of the pot as a filter layer, sprinkle a layer of fully rotten organic fertilizer as base fertilizer with a thickness of about 1cm to 2cm, then cover it with a substrate, about 1cm thick, and then put in the plant to separate the fertilizer from the root system and avoid root burning. You can choose one of the following substrates for potting. Vegetable garden soil: slag = 3RU 1; or garden soil: medium coarse river sand: sawdust = 4RU 1RU 2; or one of paddy soil, pond mud, rotten leaf soil. Or peat + perlite + ceramsite = 2 + 2 + 1; vegetable garden soil + slag = 3 + 1; peat + slag + ceramsite = 2 + 2 + 1; sawdust + vermiculite + medium coarse river sand = 2 + 2 + 1. Pour water once after putting on the basin and keep it in a shady environment for a week. When transplanting the seedlings, first dig the planting hole, sprinkle a layer of organic fertilizer at the bottom of the planting hole as the base fertilizer (base fertilizer), the thickness is about 46.6 cm, and then cover a layer of soil and put it into the seedlings to separate the fertilizer from the roots and avoid burning roots. After putting it into the seedling, backfill the soil, cover the root system, and trample the soil with your feet and water it once. Coring is usually carried out twice before flowering to promote the germination of more flowering branches: one to two weeks after potting, or when the seedling is 6-10 cm tall and has more than six leaves, remove the tip and retain the lower 3-4 leaves to promote branching. After 3-5 weeks of the first coring, or when the lateral branch grows to 6-8 cm long, the second coring is performed, that is, the top tip of the lateral branch is removed and the 4 leaves under the lateral branch are retained. After two coring, the plant type will be more ideal and the number of flowering will be more. The cultivation technique of Chrysanthemum morifolium, cut the tender shoot of about 10 cm, remove the two leaves at the base, soak in 250 times Yada rooting nutrient solution for about 30 minutes, insert into the cutting pool mixed with perlite and vermiculite, spray with full light, and form a good root system in about 20 days. It should be noted that cuttings are not easy to survive in high temperature and humidity. By comparison, it was found that the growth of cutting seedlings was not as good as that of seed sowing seedlings, the diameter was not large, and the plants were shorter. Seedling 1. Sowing time: from late August to early October. New Year's Day was sown in late July and in the first and middle of August during the Spring Festival. The optimum temperature for germination was 20 ~ 2 ℃. 2. Seedbed: refer to melon leaf chrysanthemum. 3. Sowing rate: about 4000 seeds per gram, sowing 1 gram per square meter, about 3000 seedlings can be bred. 4. Seed cover depth: 3~4mm. Seedlings emerged 15-20 days after sowing. 5. Points for attention in raising seedlings: (1) adequate water should be irrigated before sowing or after sowing. Watering after sowing should be sprayed with fine mist or spray with sunshade net; (2) the time of seedling emergence is long, and the humidity of seedling bed should be maintained before emergence; (3) the net should be covered and shaded above the seedling bed for moisturizing and cooling before emergence, and the seedlings sown before August must be managed by full light; if sown before August, the management of seedling bed should refer to early sowing melon and leaf chrysanthemum. (4) the growth of seedlings is slow, so pay attention to the application of water and fertilizer frequently. The seedling stage was fertilized 2-3 times; the fertilizer was urea with a concentration of 0.5-1 ‰, and 45% high-concentration compound fertilizer of 0.5-0.8% or cake fertilizer water diluted about 20 times was applied at one time. The seedlings of Chrysanthemum morifolium were divided into 3 and 4 true leaves. Using the 10X8cm bowl, the seedling soil was divided into 2 + 3 compost soil + 345% compound fertilizer with wood chips. Separate seedlings and plant deep flat cotyledons. Thin and weak seedlings and tall seedlings should be removed when dividing seedlings. After seedling separation, 40% shading net was used to shade for 4-5 days, early cover and late exposure, and full-light management after delaying seedlings (due to the high temperature and strong light after the seedlings woke up in July and August, shading should be up to 10-15 days). The seedling stage is fertilized 3-4 times; the fertilizer is 0.8-145% high concentration compound fertilizer or urea, or cake fertilizer and water diluted about 15 times. The upper basin is generally put on the basin at 6-7 leaves after the beginning of spring in the following year, with a diameter of 14-16cm. The basin soil is compost soil: rotten sawdust = 3:1, plus compound fertilizer 1kg/m3. The depth of the basin is skipped over the original soil. In order to increase the branches, the heart can be removed once before and after potting. If used in a combination of potted plants, pull the bowl once (pull out another row of bowls every two rows) and plant together with 8-9 leaves. The principle of "dry and wet" should be followed in the management of watering after planting and fertilization after watering, that is, there must be a drying process of basin soil between two watering. The degree of dryness is based on the whitening of the soil surface. Chrysanthemum morifolium has strong drought tolerance, so in winter, considering controlling plant height, improving cold resistance, reducing humidity and preventing diseases, the watering of Chrysanthemum morifolium under protected cultivation conditions should be moderately dry. But we should pay attention to: 1. Dry and wet are not absolute, we should grasp the "degree". Wet but not rotten, dry but not dry. 2. It depends on the specific situation. In the prosperous period, adequate fertilizer and water supply should be ensured, but if there is a trend of excessive growth, water and fertilizer should be properly controlled. Silver leaf chrysanthemum prefers fertilizer. After two weeks on the pot, it is fertilized every 10 days or so, mainly nitrogen fertilizer, and 1-2 times phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in winter. Urea and 45% ternary compound fertilizer are used for fertilizer, and the concentration is about 1-1.5 ‰ (slightly lighter in the early stage and slightly thicker in the prosperous period). Or spray leaves with 0.1% urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate, because Chrysanthemum morifolium is a foliage flower, watering and fertilization of adult plants should be careful not to stain the leaves, try to water them, and do not apply thick fertilizer. In winter, Chrysanthemum morifolium can endure-5 ℃ low temperature at seedling stage, and can be cultivated in commercial potted flowers, in open field or in single-layer greenhouse in the south, and in single-layer greenhouse or double-layer greenhouse in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River. If cultivated in the greenhouse below-10 ℃ in the north, it should be covered with three layers of heat preservation. The first time that potted flowers enter the shed or the scaffolding should be covered with film should be carried out before the minimum temperature in autumn and winter drops to 0 ℃. Temperature management of protected areas. It is suitable for 20-> 2 ℃ in daytime and 0-1 ℃ at night (Chrysanthemum morifolium grows slowly, grows slowly when the night temperature is too low, the growth period is prolonged, and the cultivation cost increases. The suitable growth temperature of silver leaf chrysanthemum is slightly higher than that of melon leaf chrysanthemum, so the ventilation is slightly later and smaller. For others, such as cold protection and heat preservation, please refer to melon leaf chrysanthemum. Silver leaf chrysanthemum likes light, and adequate light should be ensured in winter. When the plant is adjusted for flower bed layout and edge cultivation, the heart is picked once. During the growth period, the height of the potted plant can be controlled and the plant diameter can be increased by coring. The plant type and appearance of high-quality potted flowers are: short and plump, the leaves are stretched and thick, the branches are many and robust, compact, and the leaves are silver and beautiful. Attention should be paid to proper sparse sowing, timely seedling division, timely potting and timely pulling of pots. When growing in pots as a combination, you can not pick the heart. The disease control of Chrysanthemum morifolium was occasionally harmed by underground pests in the seedling bed, but there was no occurrence of diseases and insect pests. Chrysanthemum morifolium pictures