The advantages of making bonsai with elm trees

In addition to introducing the conservation of elm bonsai, the editor also wants to explain why elm bonsai is loved by the general public. The reason why many people choose elm bonsai is that elm is a very ordinary tree species, which is easier to adopt in the mountains. And the branches, leaves and stems of elm have ornamental value. The leaves of elm are relatively small and dense, in addition, they are also thick and hard, fresh and tender, and the bark is irregular, like fish scales. although the stems of elm trees are dry and rotten, some of them seem to have many holes, but they still remain strong and undead. Elm trees can be seen everywhere in the forest. In spring and winter, people can dig the stump of elm trees in the mountains as bonsai.

The Culture method of Elm Bonsai Conservation of Elm Bonsai

The Culture method of Elm Bonsai Conservation of Elm Bonsai

Elm trees, especially the old piles of elm trees growing in the wild, have gradually formed many different strange postures after years of man-made chopping axe chisels, or wind and rain erosion, animal bites and so on. Some are intertwined, vigorous and simple, while others turn decay into magic, withered roots and new leaves, unique caves, and are excellent materials for making bonsai. This paper puts forward our views on the production, maintenance and management of elm bonsai for reference.

First of all, the selection of piles should be strict. Try to choose small and medium-sized piles to facilitate balcony cultivation; pile blanks must be fresh, decayed and rootless. The newly excavated old piles of elm trees should be planted on plain sand land or planted in tile basins, generally from late autumn to early spring (the survival rate is the highest in two or three months before sprouting). Before planting, it is necessary to prune the roots and branches, and there is often viscous sap outflow (pulp running) at the cut. If the liquid exudates too much, it will seriously affect the survival rate. The biggest disadvantage of all Ulmus varieties is that it is easy to drain juice and run pulp. If the pile billet can not effectively overcome this disadvantage before and after planting, then it is difficult to ensure the survival of the pile. In this regard, you can use paint or wax to close the incision, or you can apply a layer of erythromycin ointment or sulfonamide ointment, and then sprinkle with fine sand. After the cut has been properly handled, do not immediately put it on the basin, but should be placed in a cool place to dry for a few hours, so that the wound can naturally collect water and form a protective film, which can greatly reduce the occurrence of slurry running after the pile billet is put on the basin. Elm trees like to be dry and afraid of dampness. After planting, the soil can be compacted without watering. It is only necessary to spray fresh water on the branches once or twice a day, and water again after 3 or 4 days. If there is no dry work or watering in the future, stagnant water will never be allowed.

Secondly, according to the basic form of the old pile, the elm bonsai should be made into different forms of bonsai, such as straight dry type, curved dry type, oblique dry type, water-facing type, cliff type, wind-blowing type, jungle type, stone-attached type and so on. Modeling time can be dormant period after falling leaves, can also be carried out in the growing period, but must avoid the budding period.

After forming, the elm bonsai was planted in purple sand basin before sprouting in spring, and the sandy soil with loose air permeability, good drainage and rich humus was selected for planting. It is best to use the ratio of yellow sand: pine needle soil: loess = 4:3:3, this kind of soil is both breathable and water-retaining, and will not accumulate water. Usually placed in a place with good ventilation and sufficient light for maintenance, it is best to keep the basin soil dry. When it is hot and dry in summer, it can sprinkle water on the ground around the plant, but it is not suitable to spray water directly to the leaf surface, so as not to make the leaf bigger and lose its sense of beauty. Do not rush to fertilize after the survival of the new pile, which is an important reason for the failure of many people to raise billet, which should be applied again after autumn, and it is best to apply fully mature dilute liquid fertilizer.

The germination of elm is very strong, growing fast, the growing season should be often pruned, cut off too long, disorderly branches, in order to maintain the beauty of the tree. The best viewing period of elm bonsai is when the new leaves are just coming out, if all the leaves are removed in the first and middle of August, and the fertilizer and water management will be strengthened later, new leaves will grow again in late September to improve the ornamental value. Winter moved to the bright cold room, can also be buried in the outdoor leeward to the sun of the soil, reduce watering, so that the plant fully dormant. During maintenance, the basin is turned every 2 to 3 years to make the bonsai grow vigorously and full of vitality.

Hammer elm

Nut elm is graceful in shape, chic in posture, mottled bark, fine branches and leaves, isolated planting in the courtyard, cluster planting, or with pavilions, mountains and rocks are very suitable. It can also be selected as a greening tree species in the factory mining area. Hammer elm tree is hard and can be used for industrial wood; stem bark fiber is strong and can be used as rope and man-made fiber; roots, bark and tender leaves are used as medicine to reduce swelling and relieve pain, detoxify and treat fever, and external application to treat water and fire scalds; leaf soil pesticides can kill red spiders.

Morphological characteristics

Deciduous trees, or winter leaves become yellow or red and persist until new leaves open in the second year, up to 25 m high, DBH up to 1 m; crown broadly orbicular, trunk base sometimes tabular root, bark gray or grayish brown, split into irregular scalelike flakes peeling, revealing reddish-brown endothelium, nearly smooth, rugged; current year's branches densely pubescent, dark brown; winter buds ovoid, reddish brown, glabrous. The leaves are thick, lanceolate-ovate or narrowly elliptic, sparsely ovate or Obovate, with different lengths and widths on both sides of the towel veins, 1.7 × 8 (often 2.5 × 5) cm long and 0.8 × 3 (often 1 × 2) cm wide, apex pointed or obtuse, base oblique, cuneate or one side round, dark green, glossy, except for sparse hairs in the midvein, glabrous in the rest, sunken in the lateral veins, lighter back color, pubescent when young. After becoming glabrous or sparsely hairy along veins, or with tufted hairs in vein axils, margin with obtuse and neat simple serrate from base to apex, sparsely doubly serrate (such as leaves of germinating branches), lateral veins 10 × 15 on each side, veinlets obvious on both sides, petiole 2 × 6 mm long, only hairy above. Flowers open in autumn, 3-6 fascicled or arranged in clusters of leaf veins, perianth cup-shaped distally, lower tubular, perianth segments 4, parted to or near base of cup-shaped perianth, pedicel very short, sparsely hairy. Samara elliptic or ovate-elliptic, 10-13 mm long and 6-8 mm wide, glabrous except for apical notched stigma indumentum, the rest is glabrous, the fruit wing is slightly thicker, the basal stalk is about 2 mm long, and the wings on both sides are narrower than the fruit kernel, which is located in the middle and upper part of the Samara, the upper end is close to the notch, the perianth segments fall off or remain, and the fruit pedicel is shorter than the tubular perianth, 1 × 3 mm longer, with sparse short hairs. The flowering and fruiting period is from August to October.

Growth habit

Born in plains, hills, slopes and valleys. It is light-loving, drought-tolerant and can grow on acidic, neutral and alkaline soil, but the most suitable habitat is neutral soil with warm climate, fertile soil and good drainage.

Geographical distribution

Distributed in Hebei, Shandong, Jiangsu, Anhui, Zhejiang, Fujian, Taiwan, Jiangxi, Guangdong, Guangxi, Hunan, Hubei, Guizhou, Sichuan, Shaanxi, Henan and other provinces. It is also distributed in Japan and North Korea.

Cultivation and management

Bonsai production

(1) material selection and cultivation measures

Artificial propagation: Ulmus pumila is usually sown and propagated. From October to November, the seeds are ripe and the fruit wings are yellowish brown. They should be harvested in time, spread out and dried, sundries removed and stored in bags. Sowing, sowing or strip sowing in March of the following spring. The row spacing of strip sowing is 25 cm, sowing on a windless and sunny day, covered with fine soil, with no seeds for the degree, and then covered with straw. It can be germinated and unearthed in about 30 days, so the grass should be uncovered in time and the seedlings should be suitable. During the growth period, we should do a good job in water and fertilizer management, weed and loosen the soil, and the seedlings of the same year can be as high as 30cm and 40cm. Young tree seedlings have sparse dry twigs and large leaves, which are generally not suitable for making bonsai. They should be cultivated for several years. After pruning and shaping, it is better to go on the basin. In addition, Ulmus pumila can also be propagated by root cuttings to cultivate pile materials, which has a fast effect and is widely used in South China.

Mountain mining: there are more pumpkin elm growing in the south of the Yangtze River, and limestone mountains are more common. The old tree stump that has been cut down for many years, especially the elm stump growing in barren slopes, river ditches or mountain stone gaps, is slow in development, long in age, processed by natural wind and waves, thick roots, vigorous twists and turns, oblique and horizontal branches and leaves, and small leaves. The best one is old and clumsy. Dig before sprouting in spring, cut off unnecessary roots and branches, protect accessory roots and whisker roots, beat mud and wrap them with wet moss. After digging back, choose the land with ventilation and light, loose and moist soil for deep buried cultivation, which is called "embryo cultivation". When the root system is developed and the new branches and leaves are luxuriant, they will be processed and shaped in the basin. Take the old pile as the bonsai material, can shorten the bonsai processing time, and the shape is natural and simple, different from ordinary goods, and easy to survive.

It takes at least 2 to 3 years for the old tree stump to be cultivated. A rapid culture method is introduced here, which is especially suitable for the growth of bonsai. The hammer elm stump dug back in early spring was first planted in a tile bowl, and after survival, the unwanted buds were picked at any time, and the posture began from the end of April to the beginning of May. When the branches grow to 15-18 cm long, use thin wire to climb and shape, and pay attention to maintenance and management. When sprouting new branches and growing 4-6 leaves, pruning can be carried out. Generally, only two leaves are left on each twig, and nitrogen fertilizer is applied immediately to promote the emergence of new buds on the new branches, so that the leaves can grow thickly as soon as possible. With the continuous thickening of branches, the wire must be removed in time to prevent "trapping". For the unshaped branches, they can be clamped up again to fix their shape. In this way, a pot of nut elm pile scene can be initially formed in September.

The key to this rapid prototyping method is mainly climbing when the xylem of the branch has not yet hardened, so the production should be made with special care, the thickness of the wire should also be selected properly, and the winding should not be too tight to prevent damage to the delicate branches. In addition, it is also necessary to do a good job of "raising embryos" in order to achieve the goal of digging piles for one year to make bonsai.

(2) the process of putting up the basin

Selection of basin: hammer elm pile scene is generally suitable to use glazed pottery basin, but also can use purple sand pottery basin. The shape of the basin is various, depending on the shape of the tree, and the rectangular basin is the most common. Simple and elegant is the best color.

Use soil: the requirement to the soil is not strict, the adaptability is strong. Pot culture with loose and fertile pastoral soil or rotten leaf soil is suitable, good air permeability and water permeability, is conducive to the development and growth of roots and maintain the luxuriant branches of old piles.

Planting: usually planted before sprouting in February-March in spring, or in autumn. When planting, trim the root properly, cut off the overlong root, and lift it properly. The root system of Ulmus pumila is well developed, which is suitable for bonsai with stone. The planting of attached stone is more difficult, generally, it is necessary to choose the stone with deeper cracks (the cancellous stone can be artificially carved into a stone gap), trim the roots, embed them into the cracks, and tie the main coarse roots with brown silk to make them fixed. When taking root, pay attention not to damage the root system as far as possible, can be covered with moss. After taking root, smear the wet river soil on the outside of the stone, then wrap it with moss, and then plant the root together with the attached stone in the basin soil and carefully maintain it for 3-4 years. The root system embedded in the stone gap can be fully grown and filled with stone gap, and then the root system and the stone form an organic whole, and the stone-attached bonsai of a pot of hammer elm is basically completed.

(3) Positioning techniques

Processing: hammer elm can be modeled by pruning method or combined with climbing. Brown wire or metal wire can be used for climbing. Due to the rapid growth of nut elm branches, the climbing materials should be removed in time, so as not to cause "silk trapping" and affect the appearance. For the old stump excavated in the mountains, the over-thick trunk can be carved to reduce the volume, be commensurate with the side branches, and increase the ancient interest at the same time. The posture of the elm is usually carried out before the spring sprouting or in the rainy season.

Tree shape: hammer elm has strong plasticity and is suitable for processing into many kinds of trees. The common ones are straight dry type, oblique dry type, horizontal dry type, cliff type, stone-attached type, co-planting type and so on. The branches and leaves can be tied into pieces or trimmed into a natural crown. In particular, the shaping of stone-attached elm bonsai can intercept a corner of nature and allow a certain amount of exaggeration. In order to render a certain part of the charm, trees can be above the rocks, mainly trees, followed by stone, without the restriction of "Zhangshan foot tree". Lingnan School, Su School and Yang School in bonsai in China often take nut elm as the main tree species.

Maintenance and management

Place: the elm should be placed in a place with plenty of sunshine and good ventilation. There is no need for shade in summer and can be placed outdoors in winter. In order to prevent the basin soil from drying and freezing, the basin can be buried in the soil. Watering: hammer elm like to be moist, watering should be sufficient, summer temperature and high light intensity, water once in the morning and evening, but do not make the basin stagnant water. It can be watered less in autumn, but it is not necessary to be watered in winter, such as buried in basin soil.

Fertilization: apply barnyard manure or cake fertilizer as base fertilizer in winter, and apply thin organic fertilizer every half a month from April to October (except Meiyu season) to maintain the need for normal growth nutrients. Nitrogen and potash are the main fertilizers.

Pruning: the branches and leaves of Ulmus pumila grow fast, so it is appropriate to prune regularly in order to maintain the bonsai model. generally, when the new bud branch extends to 5 cm, only 2 leaves remain, and the rest are cut off. In order to control growth, buds can be removed at any time.

Turn the basin: every 2-3 years, the best time is before sprouting in spring, or in autumn. When turning the basin, the old soil around 1B2 can be removed, and part of the old roots can be cut off to fill up with fertile and loose culture soil.

Pest control: there are many insect pests in elm, such as elm leaf golden flower insect, shell insect, longicorn beetle, diamondback moth, coir moth and so on. It can be sprayed with 1500 times of dichlorvos, longicorn beetles harm tree trunks, and stone-sulfur mixture can be used to block wormholes.

Prevention and control of common diseases of bonsai

There are two kinds of common and harmful diseases of elm pile in bonsai production: root rot and shoot clump disease. When the root rot is serious, it directly leads to the death of the stump; the arbuscular disease seriously affects the normal growth of the stump, which makes it difficult for the branch to take shape for many years, and when it is serious, it causes the pile to atrophy and the branch is out of state and abandoned. Root rot: the symptoms of root rot of Elm pile are mainly characterized by yellowing and shedding of leaves, gradual withering of branches, stagnation of buds for a long time or cessation of growth. When digging wild elm piles, we must pay more attention to make the cross section of the root neat, do not leave a wound, in order to prevent the invasion of bacteria. The branch cortex of elm pile is thicker and there is more water, so the root section must be properly dried before raising billet pseudo-planting, and germicidal solution can be applied to prevent root disease. Unclean soil with humus and unfermented substance should not be selected when pseudo-planting. The soil should be disinfected, and the water should be strictly controlled during billet raising, so as not to make the roots in a state of excessive moisture and long-term soaking, which can easily lead to the growth of root rot fungi. Once a dark brown rot is found in the root cortex when turning the basin, the fresh tissue should be scraped off immediately with a sharp weapon, and the affected part should be coated with 25% wettable powder and carbendazim with a concentration of 1000 times, and be served after the liquid is dried. At the same time, the necrotic root strips should be cut off and burned, and attention should be paid not to mix the scraped residue into the basin soil to prevent re-infection. Fertilizer can be applied only after the new root of wound healing is produced to enhance its disease resistance. Witches' broom disease: Ulmus pumila mainly harms new shoots and leaves, showing the symptoms of new shoots clumping, upright upward, early and small spreading leaves of diseased branches, dense branches and so on. The pathogen of arbuscular disease overwintered with mycelia on the damaged shoots and invaded when drawing new shoots in the second year. When pruning the elm pile in winter, the tufted shoots should be cut off and burned centrally, and the stone-sulfur mixture of 5 degrees Be could be sprayed before budding in early spring, and the effect was remarkable. Spraying can be carried out once a week during the growing period and lasts five rounds to eradicate witches' broom disease. During this period, do not spray water on the branches and leaves except for shelter from the rain. Keep the leaves dry.

Garden value

The dried elm is slightly curved, the bark is mottled and elegant, the twigs are graceful, and the autumn leaves turn red. It is a good ornamental tree and factory greening, greening tree species on all sides, often planted alone into a scene, suitable for planting near the pond and pavilions, but also between mountains and rocks, but there are more diseases and insect pests. It has strong sprouting power and is a good material for making bonsai.

The tree has the advantages of beautiful shape, chic posture, mottled bark and fine branches and leaves, which has high ornamental value. It is suitable to plant alone, in clusters or with pavilions in the garden, and it has a good ornamental effect as shade trees, street trees or bonsai. Because of its strong resistance, it can also be selected as a greening tree species in the factory mining area.

Elm tree

Scientific name: Ulmus pumia Linn. Family and genus: Ulmaceae, Ulmus. Deciduous Arbor, native to the north, the wood is several meters high: the skin is exhausted. Summer has scales peeling off, leaves oval, edges serrated, dark green, leathery, and shiny. Small flowers bloom in March and April, and the fruit is flat and round. There are membrane wings. It is called Yuqian and can be used as food. There are three kinds of elm trees: big leaves, middle leaves and leaflets, of which the big leaves are large and thin. The color of the leaves is not as good as that of the middle leaves and lobules, so it is not welcomed by bonsai creators and has been eliminated. The growth rate of the middle leaf is faster than that of the leaflet, and the ornamental value of the leaflet ten is higher than that of the middle leaf, so both of them can coexist, one for those in need. Elm is the most ideal tree species for shaping Lingnan bonsai, and it is one of the five famous trees in Lingnan bonsai, including Jiuli incense, sparrow plum, Fujian tea, elm, all over the sky. It mainly has the following advantages. The growth rate of ① is fast (it is the top of five famous trees). Whether it is the growth rate of embryo material and the use of truncation and branch storage, the tree has a faster speed. ② has small leaves, beautiful shape and dark green color, which meets the requirements of making bonsai. ③ has better trauma, greater plasticity and larger wound healing by electric energy, which can be used to transform the pile head of tree embryo. If it needs to be shrunk, it can heal naturally after cutting off some of it. If you need to expand it, you can use the methods of "hitting" and "picking skin" to make use of its callus and proliferative tissue to become rugged nodules, which not only has the beauty of vigorous strength, but also makes the rich cadres feel bigger. The branches of ④ are soft and not easy to break, which is beneficial to shaping and binding. The root head of ⑤ is well developed, and it can be modified arbitrarily by using the principle of callus to meet the requirements of various tree types, and it is also ideal for shaping the stone type. The germination rate of ⑥ is high, and elm has the highest shade germination rate of all tree species. The whole body is covered with latent buds. In the germination period before the Beginning of Spring, all the tree trunks with wounds germinate. It is very convenient to choose and choose the location of bonsai branches. if you need to grow branches somewhere, make a hole there, and there will be sprouts there until you see the xylem. After growing into a branch, the wound will heal naturally without leaving a very obvious trace. 2. Habits and management of elm like sunshine, cold resistance, not only moist soil, but also hydrophobic, especially in transplanting to prevent waterlogging rotting roots. The germination of elm is so strong that it will sprout wherever there is a wound when it is suitable for the season (during the period of the Beginning of Spring). During the unsuitable season, it is necessary for the whole plant to germinate without leaves (picking off the leaves) to achieve the ideal. If a single branch is cut when it is not suitable for the season (other branches still grow with leaves), it will cause non-germination. Therefore, in modeling, when the size of a branch meets the requirements, the method of early inhibition (binding branches and leaves, limiting the use of light cooperation) is mostly used to limit the growth of this branch. When the branches of the whole plant are in proportion, they will be cut together so that the branches of the whole plant can sprout together, so that the branches can grow evenly. When a branch shrinks when it encounters a disease, electricity can remove the leaves of the whole tree, which can promote the sprouting of the diseased branch and the whole branch together and solve the disease of a single diseased branch. Digging elm transplant should be carried out during the period from Lesser Cold to Greater Cold every year. Digging in this period will make the elm tree survive even if it does great damage to the root system of the elm tree. The farther away from Greater Cold's season, the lower the survival rate of transplant regeneration. 3. Propagation method Elm has become a cultivated species in the south, and there are two methods of reproduction, one is the high-pressure method (commonly known as circle branch), which can be carried out all year round except during the dormant period. High-pressure propagation can get good modeling skills, but the beauty of pile head and root system is not as beautiful as the pile head propagated by root strips, which is often used as commercial bonsai. The second method of reproduction is root insertion. Take the root strips (regardless of size) cut off when digging the pile head of elm trees from Lesser Cold to Greater Cold every year; splice or each piece is about 10 cm in length and instantly planted in fully hydrophobic and breathable mud:!: the hall with enough fixed root water (which should also be covered in case of rain). In a month or so, it will sprout and grow. It is routinely managed. The following year, intercropping was transplanted. Elm trees planted with roots, a few years later, the pile head is strong and rugged, the pit is deeply cracked, and the roots are staggered, which can create works with artistic personality. 4. the common pests in elm are red spider, oyster scale, cotton scale and so on. The damage of the red spider to the elm is that the leaves are gray and dry, and the leaves can be seen to be eaten into a network under the transmission of sunlight (the insect body is too small to be visible to the naked eye). So that the affected trees can not sprout and grow for a long time. The damage of the oyster scale is that the branches of the elm are covered with white filaments, and the damaged branches are thin, die for a long time, and wither the whole branch (refer to the pest control chapter for control methods). The second is sun disease, exposure in the strong sun, elm bark is easy to be scorched, we should try to protect the bark to overcome this disease. The biggest disease of elm bonsai is branch shrinkage. This disease often occurs after the elm becomes a bonsai, which ends well with a bonsai. Watching it shrink in skill and fail to form a scene, if it cannot be overcome in time, it will lose a lot. The main reason why ① causes elm to shrink is that elm is a tree that grows rapidly on the land and has a well-developed root system. After transplanting it into a basin (especially a shallow landscape basin after bonsai), there is not much soil in the basin, and the root system soon fills up the whole basin and intertwines each other into a "root nest". This "root nest" is so tight that it is difficult for water to infiltrate, and the water only overflows on the mud surface, resulting in a shortage of water. the phenomenon of lack of fertilizer weakens the tree gradually. At the same time, after the work is formed, the branches are dense, the nutrition consumption is large and the ventilation condition is poor, resulting in thin branches, weak disease resistance and easy to cause insect pests. These adverse factors are the primary causes of branch shrinkage of elm. The first manifestation of this disease is slow germination (the normal growth should be that the bud keeps the germination state of green), and then the phenomenon of lack of water and fertilizer occurs. The branches inside (poorly ventilated) first aging and shrinking, and gradually spread to the disease of the whole plant. The way to solve the shrinking branch of elm by ② is to pay close attention to the growth state of the plant. If you find the above situation, you can use pry to detect the soil, which is proved to be caused by the lack of water and fertilizer due to the tight "root nest". It is necessary to take immediate measures to loosen the soil deep into the "root nest" with a crowbar, so that water and fertilizer can effectively seep into the soil, and at the same time, fertilizing outside the root, and spraying water to the leaves, and so on, so as to alleviate the symptoms of the disease. when entering the Ⅱ period, turn the basin immediately, remove as much of the root system as possible and replace it with new mud, and the disease will naturally be improved. Experience has proved that elm bonsai should be turned over, cut roots, and changed mud every year (during the period from Lesser Cold to Greater Cold) to ensure normal growth.

Elm pile planting method: * gummed cut, compacted with plain yellow mud, do not water. Put it in a dark place. Water it after 10 days. Shade. I have been planted for a whole month and have luxuriant branches and leaves.

The oar juice must be prevented from flowing out, and the incision should not encounter water within a week.

* cut off the branches and leaves, one-time repair, pure sand planting (semi-wet), do not water temporarily, leave the room in a cool place, spray water on the branches several times a day, wait until the branches sprout, gradually move from the indoor to the outdoor shade, and then gradually move to the normal sun (avoid at noon). After about a month, you can enter the normal management according to the situation.

Elm trees are distributed all over China, generally transplanting in the dormant period in winter and spring, especially in February and March before sprouting. The branches and roots should be trimmed before planting, and the viscous sap will often flow out from the wound. If the sap exudates too much, it will seriously affect the survival rate. You can also apply a layer of erythromycin ointment on the cut with wax, paint, etc., and then sprinkle with fine sand to prevent sap outflow, but you must not soak it with water, otherwise it will aggravate the loss of sap and cause the root to rett. The plant died. After planting, the soil is compacted, but it is not necessary to water it. Spray clean water on the trunk once or twice a day, and water once after 2 to 3 days. After the maintenance of the plant in a ventilated and transparent place, watering does not dry and does not water, watering is thoroughly, and soil stagnant water is strictly prohibited. The shape of elm bonsai can be either in the growing period or in the dormant period, but it is necessary to avoid the budding period so as not to lose too much sap and affect the plant growth. Its form can be processed into straight dry type, curved dry type, oblique dry type, dry type, water-facing type, cliff type, jungle type and other different forms of bonsai according to the basic shape of the stump. The crown can not only be natural, but also can be shaped by a big tree with a dome, and can be processed into a regular disc shape. The modeling method is to tie and cut at the same time, first using wire to tie out the basic shape, and then fine pruning.

The wound section is smeared with erythromycin or sealed wax, the page is sprayed with water, and it is not too late to stay for a few more days in watering. Otherwise, it will be difficult to survive if you run out of starch. Cut off the roots and add plant ash. It can stop the pulp. Water it a week after planting. Fill up the mud. Then seal the clay with plastic sheeting. Leave it alone. It will sprout around March 20 next spring. The transplant was injured. The immunity is poor. Just put a plastic bag on it. Wait until the bud has 2-3 leaves before removing it. About the time is mid-April, it can't be watered before)

A simple way to make bonsai quickly

A simple way to make bonsai quickly

Making and finishing | @ exotic wood

Generally speaking, bonsai production, as little as a few years, as many as decades or even hundreds of years, may not matter for ordinary hobbies, but when we want to use bonsai as an industry to maintain our lives, it may be a myth. More of us hope to have both beautiful enjoyment and income when making bonsai, and combine the two organically, so that we can be happy and live both.

The development of grafting technology presents a way for us to adopt appropriate grafting technology, which can enable us to exert our imagination and aesthetic taste at will, and produce bonsai with far-reaching artistic conception and excellent beauty.

Bonsai production can be divided into the following steps:

First, choose the appropriate bonsai material.

The material is the most difficult to choose when making ordinary bonsai, but our choice is not difficult, as long as it is tangible, it can be any part of the tree, whether it is one more twig or a few twigs, we can omit it, and the length can be intercepted at will according to one's own preference.

Second, grafting root system.

Because the pile we chose has no root, we have to graft the root system. The root system takes the way of inverted ventral grafting, and the number of grafted roots is up to you, but don't graft too little to save trouble. You have saved a lot of work than ordinary bonsai.

Third, grafting.

Grafting suitable thick and thin branches where branches are needed, grafting is suitable for small branches, the possibility of survival of grafted big branches is reduced, and we have no shortage of big branches. If the branchlet is a fruiting mother branch (a branch that starts first and then blossoms), it can bear fruit in the year or the following year in which the stump survives.

Fourth, binding.

Wrap all the scions and joints tightly with plastic strips. Except for the parts buried in the soil, the plastic strips should have a single layer in the scion bud, otherwise the buds will suffocate. The plastic strip uses a thin food bag, which is the key, otherwise it is bound to fail, because it has small toughness and low strength, and the buds can break through naturally.

Fifth, root shaping.

Make the root system into the desired shape as needed.

Sixth, planting and maintenance.

Plant the stump in a flowerpot or in the ground, and pay attention to the place where the root is buried in wet soil and then surrounded by plastic film. Before the scion sprouting, do not let the water soak to the root site when watering, which is also the key, the water interface is rotten and the whole planting fails. When the top scion is stronger, gradually remove the excess soil buried in the pile. Finally, all the plastic bindings were removed and the work was initially completed.

Processing and modeling of bonsai tree embryos:

Saplings cultivated from an early age usually begin to process and shape after 3 to 5 years, while stumps excavated in the mountains can be processed and modeled after a year of embryo cultivation. Before processing, the tree embryos planted on the ground can be dug up and temporarily planted in pots of suitable size for operation and modeling. Large tree embryos can also be processed on the spot. Processing and production should follow a series of artistic techniques of bonsai creation, carefully observe and deliberate the tree embryo material first, and decide what kind of theme and how to shape according to the characteristics of the material, that is, "material treatment". The skeleton of the radicle, stem and branch of the tree is arranged according to the law of bonsai art, so as to make it a living bonsai art with coordinated symmetry, beautiful lines and far-reaching artistic conception.

If the pine tree is selected as the material, it is suitable to show the vigor and straightness of the main root, the branches and leaves are flat and unfolded in the shape of clouds, the cypress is suitable to show that its trunk is clumsy and strange, the branches and leaves are clustered, the plum blossom shape should be sparse and oblique, and the spring should be arched. This is considered from the natural characteristics of tree species.

In addition, we should also consider the inherent shape of the stump. For example, the trunk of some stumps is straight and can be made into a straight type; some stumps are naturally curved and suitable for making curved trunks or cliff types; and some stumps are bald and bald. It is suitable to make a withered peak. Due to wood treatment, bonsai production can not only save labor, but also have natural wild interest. If you completely let nature take its course, there will be no bonsai art, but the artificial traces are too much, but it loses its natural beauty. Therefore, for the shape of the stump, we must not stick to the rules and apply the pattern.

Modeling and processing methods also have a certain degree of procedure, usually the trunk first and then the branches, and the climbing, pruning or carving from bottom to top can be determined according to the needs of tree species and modeling. Due to the different habits in different regions, the processing methods are also different.

Generally speaking, climbing is the main method for pine and cypress and tree species with weak germination ability. Tree species with strong germination, such as hammer elm, Finch plum, Fujian tea, triangle maple and so on, can be pruned mainly. The stump processed by the climbing method is free in shape, tortuous and changeable, and the forming is faster; the stump processed by the pruning method is natural, but the forming is slow. In the south, the climate is warm and the trees grow fast, which is suitable for pruning, while in the north, the climate is cold and the trees grow slowly, which is suitable for climbing.

Of course, these are generally speaking, the styles and schools of bonsai are different from each other, and their modeling methods are very different, such as the Lingnan School adopts the pruning method of "storing branches and cutting off the stem", the Yang School adopts the climbing method of "one inch and three bends", the Su School uses the "rough tie and fine cut" modeling method, the Hui School uses the "zigzag bending" modeling method, and the Sichuan School uses the "square turn" or "turn off" method, and so on. We master the most basic methods of pruning and climbing, and flexibly master them according to specific conditions, which can often produce ideal results.

(1) climbing method: that is, the branches of trees are bent into various shapes through climbing materials such as brown silk, hemp or wire.

Wire ligation method: this method is simple and easy, flexion and extension freely, but there is a little trouble when it is removed. It is best to use burned iron wire, but usually use more economical lead wire, according to the thickness of the branches to choose a moderate thickness of iron wire. The metal wire generally chooses the model 1224, which is used for the right number.

Selection table of wire coarseness

Wire: 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24.

Branches: 15 mm 10 mm 6 mm 4 mm 3 mm 2 mm 1.5 mm (all diameter)

When climbing, first fix one end of the wire at the base or intersection of the branch, and then wrap it slowly against the bark to make the wire at an angle of about 45 °with the branch. If the branch is to be twisted and bent to the right, the wire is wound clockwise; otherwise, it is wound counterclockwise. Pay attention to twisting and bending so that the wire clings to the bark and the branches are not easy to break. Do not push too hard so as not to damage the bark or break the branches. For some tree species with thin skin, such as pomegranate and red maple, you can wrap the branches with hemp skin first, and then climb and bind the wire. If there is a repeated wire winding on a branch, pay attention to the consistency of the winding direction and avoid crossing as far as possible.

Brown silk climbing method: it is a traditional modeling method of bonsai in China.

Its advantages are: the color of brown silk and branches are harmonious, it can be appreciated after processing, and it is not easy to damage the bark and is easy to remove, but it is difficult to climb. Generally, the brown silk is twisted into a brown rope of different thickness, the middle part of the brown rope is tied to the lower end of the trunk that needs to be bent (or tied with a knot), the two ends are twisted to each other, put on the upper end of the branch that needs to be bent, tie a living knot, then slowly bend the branch to the desired arc, and then tighten the brown rope into a dead knot, that is, to complete a bend. General bending should not be excessive, otherwise it is easy to lose the natural form. The key to brown silk tying is to master the strength point, according to the needs of modeling, choose the position of the lower brown and knot.

The order of brown silk climbing: at the beginning, tie the trunk first, then the branches and leaves; when binding the branches and leaves, first tie the top, then the lower part; when each part, tie the big branch first, then the twig; when binding the trunk, it should be from the base to the top. Bonsai veteran artists from all over the country have summed up many methods of climbing brown silk in their long-term practice, which are called brown method. This brown method varies slightly from region to region or genre, but the basic principles are the same, and the aim is to use brown silk to tie the branches of trees into the desired form. Brown method is a means, not an end. After mastering the basic principles, it can be dealt with flexibly according to the needs of modeling. If you bend a thicker branch, you can first wrap it with hemp skin, and lining a hemp tendon on the outside of the place where you need to bend to enhance the toughness of the trunk. If the branch is too thick and difficult to bend, you can also use the "knife method", that is, use a sharp knife to cut a deep opening 3 to 5 centimeters long at the bend of the trunk, and then wrap it with hemp skin according to the method, which is not only easy to bend, but also not easy to break. In order to facilitate the healing of the incision, it is best to make the section perpendicular to the plane where the bend is located. No matter using metal wire or brown wire climbing, it can be finalized after a year's removal. If it is not removed in time, it will cause the wire or brown wire to fall into the cortex because of the long and thick branches, affecting the growth and beauty of the trees. However, for slower-growing tree species and thicker branches, the time can be slightly extended for a year and a half.

Climbing time of each tree species: pay attention to timely climbing, then the branches are soft, easy to bend, after climbing, development and growth are good. If not timely climbing tie, branches are easy to break, development and growth are also affected. Winter and spring climbing tree species are: juniper, magnolia, wood hydrangea, butterfly tree, wax plum, plum blossom, peach, cherry, wheat plum, trifoliate plum, Xifu begonia, flowering crabapple, pomegranate, Lagerstroemia, elm, hackberry tree, negundo, etc. The following species of Chimonanthus praecox, before not forming, should also climb a new lignification branch in summer. Summer, autumn climbing tie tree species are: Podocarpus, Pinus armandii, gold marble, Elaeagnus, June snow, osmanthus and so on. Winter, autumn climbing tie tree species are: stick stem Begonia, Pyracantha, Sparrow plum, Buxus, and so on. Some tree species such as peach leaf euonymus, Yingchun, wolfberry, etc., can be climbed at any time. Camellia, rhododendron and other flowering tree species, are appropriate before flowering climb tie.

(2) pruning method: that is, through the pruning of branches, remove excess parts, retain its essence, in order to make the tree beautiful, this is a major means of tree bonsai modeling. Pruning has the function of weakening, dwarfing and changing the tree shape.

When pruning, adjust the messy cross branches, overlapping branches, parallel branches, opposite branches, etc., that is, cut them off. For the remaining branches, nutrients are concentrated and grow strong. When the cultivated branches grow to a suitable thickness, they are pruned intensively to shorten them and give birth to the second node; when the second node grows to a suitable thickness, they are cut off again, and the third and fourth nodes are executed in turn. Generally, each branch leaves two twigs, one long and one short. After years of pruning, the branches are shortened, stout, vigorous and powerful, gradually forming the tree type needed.

Pruning methods: picking, cutting, thinning, injury and other measures.

Picks namely picks the core and picks the leaf, the growth period will the new shoot top to remove calls picks the core. Topping can promote axillary bud growth, long branches, inhibit high growth, beneficial to bonsai beautiful shape. Picking leaves can promote the germination of new leaves, such as elm in the growth period to pick old leaves, will make the new leaves smaller, become delicate, conducive to viewing; maple maple, pomegranate pick old leaves, germination of new leaves red, bright and pleasing to the eye

Cutting is to cut short the branches of the year, after cutting short, the number of medium and short branches increases, the branches of the mother Chinese bonsai production technology increase thickness, the so-called branch thinning is cut, and the branches are dense, which is conducive to branch modeling. Retraction is the main method of cutting perennial branches short, which is beneficial to the regeneration and rejuvenation of old trees. In the process of embryo cultivation, the method of shrinking and cutting off the trunk is often used in mining wild stumps, which is not only a dwarfing measure of stumps, but also a means of regeneration and rejuvenation of old stumps.

Thinning refers to thinning, cutting off parts of over-dense branches from the base, which is conducive to improving ventilation and light transmission conditions and promoting vigorous growth of branches left behind.

Wound is to carve, girdle, twist, twist, take branches and other measures on tree branches. Flower viewing, fruit viewing bonsai often take this method to promote flowering. Pruning period should be timely suitable for trees, general deciduous trees can be pruned all the year round, but it is appropriate to prune after deciduous leaves and before germination. Conifers are easy to flow resin after shearing, so they are suitable for pruning in winter; fast-growing and germinating species such as Tamarix chinensis and elm can be pruned many times a year; flowering species, such as begonia, apple, crape myrtle and pomegranate, which bloom on new branches in the same year, should be pruned before germination; flowering species on annual branches such as peach, plum blossom and Yingchun should be pruned after flowering.

(3) Carving method: In order to show the ancient trees, sometimes chisel or sharp carving knife can be used to carve the trunk according to the modeling technique, into natural concave and convex changes, but also part of the bark can be stripped, and even half of the trunk will be split (such as plum pile split dry modeling), so that the trees present a natural withered old posture. However, the carving shall not reveal the marks of artificial knife carving and axe chiseling. This method is mostly used for conifers and older stumps with larger volumes.

(4) root method: tree stump bonsai pay attention to hanging roots and claws, intertwined roots, which is also one of the important contents of bonsai appreciation.

Root lifting techniques usually plant trees in deep pots first, and then remove the soil above them year after year, so that thick roots can be raised to the surface of the soil. At the same time, the roots can also be twisted art treatment, so that it is more ancient strange, simple wild fun. However, when lifting roots, we should master moderation. We should not expose too many roots at once, so as not to affect the growth of stumps or even cause death.

Elm, Caragana and other tree species of slender and soft roots, root extraction, long roots can be bent into quaint shape, but the roots of the winding to be organized and aesthetic, can not be tangled around Hu, lose nature, but affect the effect.

Nature's ever-changing shapes of trees, as a miniature of bonsai, of course, should also be a variety of, therefore, the shape of trees is difficult to use specific standards set down. But it has to be natural and picturesque. If you do it arbitrarily, you lose the natural form of trees. However, it is not enough to conform to nature alone. It is also necessary to carry out artistic processing on the basis of nature. This is the same as the principle of painting. To achieve a certain artistic realm, we must observe more natural trees and accumulate perceptual knowledge, especially the typical posture of some commonly used potted trees, such as pine, cypress, willow, plum blossom and common miscellaneous trees. At the same time, we should observe more trees in landscape painting and learn skills from them.

In addition, we should improve artistic accomplishment from aesthetics, literature and other aspects.