The steps of cutting of Chrysanthemum morifolium

1. Cutting time

Blue-eye chrysanthemum avoid hot, so when we cut blue-eye chrysanthemum, we must avoid the hot summer season, because the summer weather is hot, at this time cutting will greatly affect the survival rate of blue-eye chrysanthemum. Therefore, the most favorable season for blue-eye chrysanthemum cutting should be in spring, which is conducive to its rooting and sprouting.

2. Soil matrix

The requirement of blue-eye chrysanthemum to the soil is not too high, its vitality is more exuberant. We can often see exuberant Compositae plants on the roadside. So generally we only need to choose sand, soil perlite and other mixed media of the soil. However, the most basic requirements are still necessary, that is, they have the property of loose ventilation and good drainage.

3. Watering

After we meet the above two conditions, we can cut the blue chrysanthemum into the flowerpot. After the cuttage is finished, water it thoroughly at once, and then put it in a cool and ventilated place to avoid direct sunlight leading to the yellowing of chrysanthemum leaves. In the later stage, as long as the chrysanthemum is regularly watered to keep the basin soil moist after germination.

4. Fertilization

The growth period of blue-eye chrysanthemum is relatively longer than that of other plants, so we need to top it twice to avoid nutrient consumption. After planting, some base fertilizer can be applied to promote flowering. If the factors of light and moisture are very suitable, it will only take about two months from the seedling stage to flowering.

The above is about how the blue chrysanthemum cuttage introduction, you can learn this method, your blue chrysanthemum want to burst the pot can all depend on it.

How to cut blue chrysanthemum, the cutting time is in spring

Blue chrysanthemum can not only sow through seeds, but also propagate by cutting, so how to cut blue chrysanthemum, the following are the methods and steps of blue-eye chrysanthemum cutting.

How to cut blue chrysanthemum 1. Cutting time

The cutting time of blue chrysanthemum can generally be better in spring, and the spring temperature is suitable, which is beneficial to the rooting and sprouting of blue chrysanthemum. Flower friends are not recommended to cut in summer, because the high temperature in summer will greatly reduce the survival rate of blue chrysanthemum cutting.

2. Cutting soil

The cutting soil of blue chrysanthemum can use sand, soil perlite and its mixed medium. The main purpose of mixing sand is to ensure the water permeability of basin soil and make it more convenient for branches to take root.

3. Branch selection and cutting methods.

For the cutting branches of blue chrysanthemum, it is suggested that the branches that are mature and healthy without diseases and insect pests can be selected. at the same time, the branches grow well, and after the branches are selected, flower friends can cut a section of the branches directly from the mother plant.

Flower friends will cut the branches simple treatment, can directly insert the branches into the prepared pot soil, and press with both hands, mainly to ensure that the branches will not be crooked, after cutting, put the flowerpot in a cool place for maintenance.

4. Maintenance after cutting

When watering blue chrysanthemum cuttings, be sure to water thoroughly, and then place the plants in a ventilated and cool place to avoid a dry environment caused by water evaporation caused by direct sunlight. You can also choose to cover the plant with plastic film or plastic bags to maintain humidity.

In the later stage, after the cutting branches of blue chrysanthemum successfully grow new buds, then flower friends can transfer them to a warmer, sunny place. After that, you only need to keep the basin soil wet and water the blue chrysanthemum plant regularly, but pay attention to the frequency can not make the basin stagnant water.

5. Supplement nutrition

The growth period of blue chrysanthemum is longer, which can continue from spring to late autumn, during which it will hit the top twice, and when it is planted, it can be properly applied with some base fertilizer, which is more conducive to flowering. If the light is sufficient and the humidity is suitable, the blue chrysanthemum can take up to two months from seedling to flowering.

The method of cutting and pseudo-planting of geranium the weather is getting cooler and it is a good time to cut geranium again. I saw the experience of cutting and false planting of geraniums written by Huayou shekinah on the Huaying Forum. I reposted it here for study and reference. With regard to cutting, my practice is still somewhat different from the conventional method. Answer the question first. 1. About the matrix. The substrates I have used are domestic peat, fine perlite and vermiculite, with a ratio of 5pm 4pm 1; sawdust, sawdust where wood is sold; imported sown peat soil, fine perlite, with a ratio of 7pm 3, my experience is that there is not much difference in rooting among these kinds. 2, about temperature: our family is constant temperature and humidity, the temperature is almost constant at about 22 degrees, the fluctuation is not big, only three or two degrees, the humidity is almost constant at about 40 degrees. However, the cuttings pictured above are not cut indoors. They are placed on the south windowsill of the open air during the day and collected at night. I live in Beijing and the temperature is about 10 to 18 degrees in the past half a month or so. 3, bagging no: no bagging 4, disinfection no: do not disinfect my cuttage steps. I this method can achieve 100% cutting survival, even if the branches are defective or more difficult to root varieties: (the method here applies to the temperature between 18-25 degrees) first, mix the wet medium, the degree of dryness and wetness to one-handed soil fingers without water seepage, do not drip water, it is best to put it for about half a day after mixing, to be fully moist. My experience is that no matter what matrix is used, we must use new soil without fertilizer. What I said above does not have to be sterilized refers to the new soil, but the old soil can not be used. Second, containers. No matter what container cuttings are used, the smaller the better, do not think that large containers are easy to control and do not do much good to rooting. On the contrary, the small container is easy to dry and wet alternately, which is conducive to rooting. As for how to control the small container, we must observe more. Don't think that everything will be all right if you put the cuttings into a large container and put on the bag. I still feel that there is a discount on the survival rate. Third, branches. If you are not too sure, you must choose a strong branch at the top, the length of which is not more than 5cm, the length of the branch is not more than 2 nodules, the treatment of the branch, the leaves of the bottom nodules are removed clean, and the bottom of the branch is not too long from the nodules, no more than 3 mm. If the branch that comes back from a long journey wilts slightly, you can soak it in the water and wait for the branch to stiffen before you deal with it. Leave at most 2 leaves, including small leaves. If the leaves are too large, they need to be cut off. I basically cut the branches and cut them in about half an hour. I didn't air for too long, because the substrate will not be too wet. If there are only bare branches, there is no problem, but the time to take root will be a little slower. Fourth, after the cuttage container is filled with soil, insert the hole with tools, put the depth of the branch into the soil and press it slightly, it is recommended not to be too deep, with the branch standing firmly for the degree. My branches are usually buried within 1cm. In addition, we must make sure that the branches are not too crowded, and the ventilation in the cutting process is also very important. Fifth, after all the cuttings are finished, spray the water and put it in a place with the sun. You don't need shade and bask in the sun as much as possible. Say a few more words on this point, ha. When it comes to cutting, many experts say that you can't bask in the sun during cutting, at least not in the early days. After practice, I think this view is worth discussing. We all know that sunlight helps to take root. Experts warn that not to bask in the sun is because the branches will lose water and affect their survival, but if you can replenish water in the process of cutting to ensure that the branches will not wilt because of the loss of water. It is of great benefit to taking root. Specific to this point, interested tx can ask the next hundred aunts, key words: tender wood cuttings, this article is to introduce the summer season open-air cutting wood 15 days to take root, the method is always open-air exposure while spraying to keep moisture. I was inspired by this article. Sixth, keep the leaves upright throughout the process. If any leaves wilt, spray water until they stand upright. The first 5 days are the most important in the process of cutting. be sure to keep the leaves erect. To keep the leaves upright, it is not recommended to use bagging to moisturize. If you have time, spraying water can make the leaves stand upright. If you want to go to work and don't have time to take care of it, you can cover it in a bag during the day, but be sure to keep it in the sun and keep it in the sun as much as possible. After the fifth day, if everything is normal, you can spray fertilizer, which is half of the liquid fertilizer used in normal adult plants, that is to say, 1000 times the foliar fertilizer is generally used, and 2000 times the foliar fertilizer is sprayed with cuttings. If the matrix is too dry for about ten days, spray water on the surface of the substrate. It is best not to water the substrate. I usually spray three or four times with a small spray can. After cutting for about ten days, the leaves did not wilt and the edges of the leaves did not turn yellow, so it was over the critical period. It usually takes root within a month. Seventh, for pseudo-planting, my practice is to dry the soil and water it three or four days later. It is especially suitable for weak seedlings and seedlings after long-distance transportation. Add that this method is suitable for twigs of succulent stems, old branches and woody twigs. I have tested straight sky, hanging sky, angel, big flower, grass and tree buds, which is not suitable for old wood cuttings. The effective cuttings in this method are as follows: straight sky, hanging sky, angel, big flower sky, cow, Margaret, hibiscus, Camellia oleifera, non-Phoenix, blue daisy, Persian chrysanthemum, cornflower, chamomile, blue chrysanthemum, lavender, rosemary, immortal, chili, ivy, cornflower, rhododendron, terminal bud of rose, snowflake, dry gold lotus, passionflower, sorrel, Teresa, love vine, longevity, sixfold profit. Fake horse, hollow cabbage, fungus. When I think of it, I would like to add that if I am not too sure about cutting, do not choose small buds cutting first, but choose strong branches first. Small bud cutting is a little more difficult, mainly because the state of branches in the process of cutting needs to be observed and judged how to deal with it. If you fail too many times, it will hurt your confidence.

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