MySheen

Conservation measures and matters needing attention of kumquat trees

Published: 2024-10-07 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/10/07, 1. The golden orange tree likes the sun and warm and humid environment, so it is best to put the golden orange tree in a sunny place, but pay attention to moderate light in summer, so that the golden orange tree will grow well. 2. Pruning is a very important thing for golden orange trees. Pruning must be done according to the requirements.

1. Lighting

The golden orange tree likes the sun and warm and humid environment, so it is best to put the golden orange tree in a sunny place, but pay attention to moderate light in summer, so that the golden orange tree will grow well.

2. Pruning

Pruning is a very important thing for the golden orange tree, and it must be pruned according to the requirements, so that the golden orange tree can keep its beautiful shape.

3. Fertilization

Kumquat trees like fertilizer, so it is necessary to apply fertilizer frequently when breeding, about once in 10 days.

4. Watering

Kumquat trees are not resistant to water and moisture, so there can be no stagnant water in watering, otherwise the roots of kumquat trees will rot, it is best to keep the basin soil moist.

5. Disease and insect nuisance

Kumquat trees are the most common pests, so once pests are found, it is more convenient to spray insecticides.

All right, this is the end of today's content. I hope the kumquat tree culture methods and precautions provided by the editor can help you solve the problem of kumquat tree losing leaves. Thank you for your reading!

Culture methods and matters needing attention of potted kumquat

Kumquat, also known as golden jujube, kumquat, small orange, etc., is an evergreen shrub of kumquat in Rutaceae. Potted kumquat has luxuriant branches and evergreen seasons, and it is fragrant when it blossoms, the white flowers are very soft, and the fruit is yellow and red when it is ripe. Whether it is ornamental leaves, flowers and fruits, it is also very common at home. Let's take a look at the cultivation methods of potted kumquat.

Grafting propagation

Potted kumquat is usually propagated by grafting, rootstocks are grafted with Chinese wolfberry, lime or sown seedlings, grafting methods are branch grafting, bud grafting and leaning grafting, branch grafting is carried out from March to April in spring, bud grafting is carried out from June to September, and pot planting is usually carried out from April to July.

Soil allocation

Kumquat likes fertilizer, and cultivation requires fertile, loose, slightly acidic sandy loam with good drainage. When pot cultivation, it is appropriate to choose 4 parts of rotten leaf soil, 5 parts of sand soil and 1 part of cake fertilizer. When changing the pot, the hoof or mature cake fertilizer should be applied at the bottom of the pot as the base fertilizer.

Watering management

Kumquat likes to be moist but avoid stagnant water, and the basin soil is easy to rot when it is too wet, so it is better to keep the basin soil moderately moist during growth. Dry and windy in spring, it is necessary to spray water on the leaves once a day to increase air humidity. Spray water 2 or 3 times a day in summer, and spray water to the ground. But avoid spraying water during flowering to prevent rotten flowers and affect the fruit. The stagnant water in the basin should be dumped in time in the rainy season to avoid rotting roots. When you put it outdoors in summer, it is best to use bricks to cushion the flowerpot to facilitate drainage. Kumquat is sensitive to water from white flowering stage to young fruit stage. at this time, the pot soil is too dry, the pedicel and fruit stalk are easy to detach and fall off, excessive watering, poor water permeability of basin soil, and easy to cause flower and fruit drop. At this time, it is appropriate to keep the pot soil in a semi-moisture state that is not dry or wet.

Light management

Kumquat likes a warm and humid climate with plenty of sunshine and should be placed in a sunny place during maintenance. If the light is not enough and the environment is shaded, it will often cause branches and leaves to grow, blossom and bear fruit less. Because kumquat likes cool climate in summer, or summer sunshine intensity is large, it is better to put it slightly in the shade at this time. It is advisable to keep room temperature without icing in winter. If the room temperature is too high and the plant is not fully dormant, it will grow weak in the following year and it is easy to drop flowers and buds.

Temperature management

Kumquat likes a warm and refreshing growth temperature. When the temperature is lower than 10 degrees Celsius in late autumn, it should be moved indoors in time. In winter, the room temperature should be kept at 6 to 12 degrees Celsius. Too low temperature is easy to suffer frost damage, and too high will affect plant dormancy, which is not conducive to flowering and fruiting in the coming year.

adequate manuring

Potted kumquat requires proper management of water and fertilizer. Branches from the beginning of new bud germination to before flowering can be treated with mature shallow sauce and residue water every 7-10 days and poured alum fertilizer water several times. After the beginning of summer, it is appropriate to apply more phosphate fertilizer to facilitate bud pregnancy and fruiting. Results fertilization should be suspended at the initial stage, and liquid fertilizer could be applied once a week until the end of September when the young fruit grew to about 1 cm.

Reasonable pruning

Pruning is an important technical measure to make kumquat blossom multiply and bear fruit. In order to make the tree shape beautiful and fruitful, a re-pruning is carried out before the sap begins to flow every year, cutting off withered branches, disease and insect branches, over-dense branches and overgrown branches, retaining 3-4 first-year robust and well-distributed branches, each branch only leaves 2-3 buds at the base, and the rest can be cut off, so that more than 10 full spring branches can germinate. When the new plant grows slightly to 15-20 cm, the heart is removed to make the plant shape plump, and a quick-acting phosphate fertilizer is applied at this time to promote flower bud differentiation. When blooming, flowers should be thinned properly to save nutrients. After the young fruit is born, when the young fruit grows to about 1 cm, the fruit can be thinned, the sturdy branches leave 2-3 fruits per plant, the weak branches retain one fruit per branch, and the whole plant fruit evenly. Cut off the autumn a little in time, do not make the secondary fruit, in order to achieve the same shape and maturity, and improve the ornamental value.

Pest prevention

Kumquat rarely found pests, only yellow butterfly (citrus butterfly) harm. The yellow Phoenix butterfly adult is 30 mm long, has a wingspan of 100 mm, yellowish green, and has a broad black longitudinal pattern on the back. The front wings are daily, and the rear wings are 6. The egg is round, 1 mm in diameter, yellowish white. The larvae feed on the new leaf buds and eat day and night, which can easily cause the leaves of kumquat to be engraved or gnawed off. The treatment of this pest is spraying 1000 times of 50% fenitrothion or 1000 times of dichlorvos at larval stage and catching insecticidal pupae outside the branches.

Maintenance methods and matters needing attention of potted flowers in spring 1, timely change of pots, selection of potted flowers, the material and volume of flowerpots have a great impact on the growth of flowers, so the reasonable selection of flowerpots is very important. According to the different production materials, flowerpots can be divided into the following types: (1) plain fired tile pots: generally, tile pots for raising flowers are better than porcelain pots. The tile basin is not only economical and practical, but also has ideal permeability and water permeability, and the respiration and growth of the root system are good. The disadvantages are monotonous color, unbeautiful shape, rough surface, few specifications and fragile, etc. (2) plastic basin: light material, easy to use, unbroken, durable, bright and clean inside and outside the basin wall, not only easy to hit the earth when changing the basin, but also easy to wash and disinfect. However, it is impervious to air and water, so it is only suitable for planting water-resistant flowers and trees, such as parasol grass, tortoise back bamboo, calla lilies, Guangdong evergreen, or more temperature-loving flowers and trees, such as ferns, hanging orchids, purple metatarsus, winter corals, night cloves and so on. (3) porcelain pots and glaze pots: flowers and trees are planted in glazed flowerpots, and the outer walls of the pots are painted with colored glaze, impervious to air and water, so it is not easy to grasp the dry and wet condition of the basin soil, especially when dormant in winter, the rotten roots of flowers and trees often die because of too much watering. Therefore, it is not suitable for planting flowers and trees. But the porcelain basin has a beautiful appearance and various shapes. 2. The commonly used materials for preparing culture soil are garden soil, rotten leaf soil, peat soil, river sand, rice chaff ash, sawdust, moss and so on. For example, rotten leaf soil, garden soil and river sand can be used to prepare culture soil in North China. For general herbaceous flowers, 3 pieces of rotten leaf soil, 5 parts of garden soil and 2 parts of river sand can be used; for convenience, you can also choose the packaged nutrient soil in the flower market. 3. The operation of changing basin and changing soil is generally appropriate in April. The time of changing pots should be dealt with separately according to different types of flowers, such as rose, jasmine, mulberry, begonia, etc., the basin soil should be changed every spring, some foliage flowers can be changed once in 2-3 years, and some ornamental pine and cypress flowers and trees can be changed once in 3-4 years. Stop watering 1-2 days before changing the basin, so that the basin soil becomes dry, so that the basin soil can be separated from the basin wall, which is beneficial to the operation. When changing pots, small and medium-sized flowerpots can gently tap around the flowerpots to separate the soil from the flowerpots, and then pour the flowerpots together with the plants to one side, when one hand holds the plants. the other hand with thumb or stick from the basin bottom drainage hole to push a few times or gently buckle the pot bottom, the plant can be poured out. If it is a perennial flower, it is necessary to shovel off a layer of the old soil around the shoulder of the original soil, cut off the withered branches, curly roots and part of the old roots, fill the new culture soil in the big one pot, and plant it into it; such as woody flowers, you can properly remove part of the original soil block and cut off the old withered roots, generally you should also plant it into a large number one pot, and pay attention to adding new culture soil. When changing the basin, the planting method is basically the same as that of the upper basin. It is appropriate to pour enough water after changing the basin, put it in a cool place, and then gradually move to the sun after 10-15 days. Second, leave the room in time with the rise of the temperature, the potted flowers will come out one after another in the spring. The time to leave the room should be slow rather than urgent, and it should be sorted according to the cold resistance of flowers. For example, primrose, plum blossom, rose, cedar, wax plum, etc., can leave the room when the daily average temperature reaches 15 ℃ in the first ten days of April; jasmine, Fusang, leaf flower, Magnolia, Milan, kumquat, cactus, etc., it is advisable to leave the room with a daily average temperature of about 18 ℃ in the first and middle of May. Before leaving the room, it is best to go through a process of adapting to the outdoor environment, and then leave the room all day. After all come out of the room, spray and wash the branches and leaves with clean water at noon every day, and keep the basin soil moist. In case of bad weather, you should still move indoors in time. The temperature index just mentioned is also suitable for moving out of the balcony. Note: mastering the general knowledge of the growth law of flowers is the key to the maintenance of potted flowers in spring. First, exercise its adaptability before leaving the room. Second, there is a sequence of going out of the room, so we can't do it across the board. Third, coming out of the room for the first time protects against both sun exposure and cold wind. Third, scientific pruning of flowers can adjust the nutrition and growth of existing branches and leaves, promote the germination and prosperity of new branches, reduce diseases and insect pests, sit more buds and increase flowers. For rose, Fusang, poinsettia and kumquat that bloom on annual branches, re-pruning can be carried out in spring to promote more sprouting new shoots, more flowering and more fruit. For plum blossoms, green peaches, forsythia, cloves, Yingchun, etc., most of their flower buds are formed on the branches of the first year, so they can not be re-cut in spring, only the autumn shoots without flower buds should be cut off, otherwise the flower branches will be cut off to affect flowering, and only after flowering can they be pruned to promote the germination of new shoots and form flower branches of the second year. Plants that bloom all the year round (flowering plants of the four seasons), plants that bloom for a long time, perennial herbs, etc., should be cut off after flowering, in order to make the plant plump or more flowering. Some flowers cannot blossom and bear fruit because they grow in vain, so they can cut off part of the roots and restrain the growth of branches and leaves so as to promote flowering and fruiting. The following is about the pruning of rhododendrons: after the flowers are withered, cut off the remnants and 2-4 leaves below them, and cut off dense branches, residual branches, withered branches, cross branches, weak branches, long branches and diseased branches in time. During the growing period, unnecessary branchlets sprouting on the branches should be thinned. When pruning, we should pay attention not to truncate the branches that need to be kept, because the leaves of azaleas are born at the top of the branches, a new branch is produced after flowering, and a cluster of new leaves grow, then the old leaves fall off, and then the terminal bud begins to differentiate into flower buds. Therefore, it is very important to leave strong and strong branches, which is related to the number of flowers next year. After germination, new branches can be pruned and bound to gradually become "umbrella shape", "tower shape" or other plant shape with ornamental value. Fourth, rational watering in spring is the key to raising potted flowers. Because the spring climate is relatively dry and the air humidity is small, if the amount of water is less, it will cause yellow leaves and fallen leaves, affecting the growth and development of flowers; too much watering will cause flower buds to fall off or root rot, or even death. Different kinds of flowers have different habits and water requirements. Pteridophytes, orchids, begonias and other wet flowers should be watered more; crassulaceae, cactus, tequila and other drought-loving flowers should be watered less; bulb flowers should not be watered too much. Rain Water, pond water and river water are the most suitable. General flowers can also use tap water, but it is best to store tap water for 1-2 days before use. The amount of water also depends on the size and texture of the flowerpot, the flowerpot is small, the soil dries quickly, and the watering times should be increased, while the flowerpot is large, on the contrary. The mud basin has loose texture and good water permeability, and the loss of water through basin wall evaporation is more than that of flowers, so it is necessary to water more; pottery basin, glaze basin and purple sand basin have fine texture, poor water permeability and air permeability, so they should be watered less; plastic basins are impervious and should be watered less. Several commonly used watering methods: soak the pot: soak the flowerpot into the water basin and let the water seep into the basin soil along the water hole at the bottom of the basin until the basin soil is completely soaked. Spray pot watering method: use a spray can to pour water directly on the basin surface. This method is commonly used in larger flowers and trees. Spray pot sprinkling: sprinkle water on the leaves and pots of the plant with a spray can. This method is often used in new seedlings, cuttings and foliage plants. However, some flowers are particularly sensitive to water, such as Tripterygium przewalskii, Baobao flower, begonia and so on, which have thick villi on the leaf surface, which is not easy to evaporate after spraying water, and the leaves are easy to rot; the top leaf buds of cyclamen bulbs and the flower buds of African chrysanthemum are easy to rot and wither, so it is not suitable to use water spray. For blooming flowers, it is not advisable to spray more water, otherwise it is easy to cause petal mildew or affect fertilization and reduce seed setting rate. 5. Reasonable fertilization of different kinds of flowers requires different fertilizers of different properties. The types of fertilizers should be matched reasonably, otherwise nutritional deficiency is easy to occur. Green foliage plants, such as tortoise back bamboo, hanging orchid, asparagus, iron tree, etc., generally give priority to nitrogen fertilizer; colorful foliage plants, such as colorful leaf grass, taro, evergreen, etc., in addition to nitrogen fertilizer, we should also pay attention to the application of phosphate and potash fertilizer, otherwise it will cause the leaves to grow too long and the markings will disappear. Flower and fruit flowers, such as pansy, marigold, Bidong eggplant, five-color pepper, etc., should apply complete fertilizer, apply more nitrogen fertilizer at seedling stage, apply more phosphorus fertilizer at flower bud differentiation stage, flower bud formation and early flowering stage, so as to promote them to blossom and fruit; flowers that bloom many times in a year, such as rose, jasmine, Milan, etc., mainly apply phosphate fertilizer to promote them to blossom many times. More phosphate and potassium fertilizers are applied to bulbous flowers and plants in the south, such as rhododendron, camellia, gardenia, pineapple, pteridophyte, etc., are forbidden to apply alkaline fertilizers, and acidic fertilizers such as ammonium sulfate and calcium superphosphate are suitable. If necessary, ferrous sulfate should be added to adjust the pH value of the soil to ensure flowers and leaves flourish. (note: fertilizer and water management should be reasonable. Spring is the season for the growth and development of flowers and trees, which needs more water and fertilizer. If the supply of water and fertilizer is insufficient, it will not grow well. However, excessive fertilization and excessive watering can easily cause fertilizer damage, "burn to death" and rotten roots, etc., therefore, fertilization and watering should be appropriate. Fertilization should be carried out according to the principle of "thin fertilizer should be applied frequently and increased appropriately". Generally, liquid fertilizer such as fully rotten cake fertilizer and chicken and duck manure should be applied every 10 to 15 days in the evening of sunny day. For seedlings, flowers and trees that have just changed pots and soil and just put on pots, fertilization should be suspended until they grow normally. Watering flowers and trees should be watered according to the principle of "see dry and wet, not dry, no watering, watering must be thoroughly". It is appropriate to water flowers and trees 2 to 3 times a week at noon on a sunny day. The water temperature should not be too low, it is better to be close to room temperature, and the water quality should be soft water. Tap water should be kept for 2 to 3 days until the chlorine is volatilized before use. 6. Propagation of flowers 1. Treatment of cuttings of flowers and trees Spring is the best season for cutting propagation of flowers. Because the temperature is often kept at 15 ℃-20 ℃, the humidity is high, so the survival rate is high. Most potted flowers in early spring can cut strong branches or stems (such as rose, jasmine, tortoise back bamboo, ivy, Lingxiao, stick stem begonia, clove, mulberry, etc.), roots (such as wisteria, crape myrtle, peony, begonia, etc.), leaves (such as big rock tree, tiger tail orchid, toad leaf begonia, etc.) for cutting propagation. In addition to being treated with rooting powder when cutting flowers, the following methods can also be used: (1) soaking the cuttings in potassium permanganate aqueous solution: soaking the cut cuttings in 0.1% Mel 0.5% potassium permanganate aqueous solution, soaking in a depth of 2 cm, soaking time for 12 hours, cutting immediately after taking out, and directly cutting in the seedbed or various containers. (2) soak the cuttings in sugar water: soak the cuttings in the liquid made of sugar water, the proportion of herbaceous flowers and woody flowers is 2%, 5%, 10%, the immersion depth is 2 cm, and the soaking time is 24 hours. After taking out, rinse the white sugar water liquid with clean water, and then cuttings can be cut. (3) Vitamin soaking: add twice as much water with vitamin B12 injection, soak the base of the cuttings for 10-15 minutes, and then cut. (4) soaking in willow twig solution: soak the base of cuttings in willow extract for 1-2 days, and then cut. Insert the treated cuttings into the culture soil (commonly used are river sand, vermiculite, perlite, soft mountain soil or pastoral soil). The depth of cutting is 2 prime 3 of the length of cuttings. After transplantation, it is kept in a semi-shaded place for a few days, and after it has grown healthily, it is put into the sun for daily management. 2. Commonly used sowing methods and seed treatment, some slow-germinating seeds can be treated by artificial measures before sowing, so as to promote their early germination. Generally, the seed soaking method can be used for treatment, that is, before sowing, the seeds are soaked in cold water or warm water below 40 ℃. The seed soaking time varies from 2 to 24 hours according to the types of flowers. For some seeds whose seed coat is hard and impervious to air and water, the method of seed coat engraving can be used to make water into the seeds and promote them to absorb water and germinate. (1) sowing: often used for smaller seeds, such as chrysanthemum, Dutch chrysanthemum, goldfish grass, etc. Before sowing, flatten the soil finely and water thoroughly for 1-2 hours, then spread the seeds evenly on the border or flowerpot and cover the fine soil so that the seeds are invisible. Before sowing, pour the water thoroughly, generally do not need watering before emergence, and spray water with a thin nozzle spray can if necessary. For pot sowing, cover it with glass and newspaper to moisturize and keep warm; soak the basin with water if necessary, and do not water it directly, otherwise the seeds will be washed out or silted to one side to affect the germination rate, and the mulch will be gradually removed after the buds are unearthed. Especially small seeds such as paulownia, Pu Bao flower, four seasons begonia, etc., should be mixed with 3-4 times fine sand and sowed in the flowerpot without covering the soil. (2) Strip sowing: the border or potted soil is opened into a shallow ditch, and the seeds are sown and flattened in the ditch. Other management is the same as sowing. Strip sowing is mostly used for taproot flowers that are not suitable for transplanting, such as Yumei, morning glory and so on. (3) on-demand sowing: large seeds can be sowed one by one, such as purple jasmine, dry lotus, etc., and the thickness of the covered soil is about 3 times of the seed diameter. After the seeds germinate, the squatting seedlings should be properly strangled, and the seedlings that are too dense should be kept ventilated and transparent. When 2-3 true leaves are grown, the ones that are resistant to transplantation can be moved 1-2 times. Some herbaceous flowers are not suitable for transplantation, such as Yu Mei, pineapple, etc., it is best not to transplant. 7. Pest control in spring is the season with high incidence of diseases and insect pests, and plants are vulnerable to pests such as shell insects, red spiders, aphids, whitefly and so on. Diseases include leaf spot, stem rot and so on. If no diseases and insect pests are found, they can be sprayed to prevent them. Insecticides such as: plant compound insecticides, 05 biological insecticides, etc. Fungicides include: carbendazim, methyl topiramate, etc., sprayed every 5-7 days after the emergence of diseases and insect pests, 3-4 times in a row. Prevention of diseases and insect pests can be sprayed every 30 days. The concentration is in accordance with the instructions.

 
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