Prevention and control of diseases of Magnolia bract

1. Sheath rust

Symptoms: the pathogen usually occurs on the leaves, rarely on the branches and stems, with protruding buds with yellow, orange and rusty powdery spores. Although sheath rust does not cause plant death, it can hinder plant growth.

Prevention and control methods: first of all, the diseased leaves should be cut off in time, and 65% Dysen zinc powder can be sprayed with 500-600 times liquid.

two。 White silk disease

Symptoms: White silk disease gives birth to plum rain season, the base of the leaf is covered with white hyphae at the beginning of the disease, and when it is serious in the later stage, the rhizome rot leads to plant death.

Prevention and control methods: to timely change the basin soil, change the basin before the soil for high-temperature disinfection, can be sprinkled with some lime. The seriously ill plants should be pulled out and burned in time. In the process of maintenance, traditional Chinese medicine should pay attention to ventilation and proper watering.

The breeding methods and disease control methods of orchid are introduced so much. I hope the above methods can be helpful to you.

Diseases and insect pests of Magnolia bract and its control methods

Diseases and control methods of Magnolia paniculata

Sheath rust

It usually occurs above and below the leaves, rarely on the branches, with protruding buds with yellow, orange, rust, or even purplish-black powdery spores.

Sheath rust does not cause plant death and leaves do not fall off, but the growth rate of the whole plant slows down and weakens.

Prevention and cure method

After it is found that there is sheath rust on the leaves, cut off the leaves in time.

It can be sprayed with 65% Dysen zinc powder 500-600 times or copper-containing fungicides.

White silk disease

This disease mostly occurs in the plum rain season, at the beginning of the disease, the base of the leaf is covered with white hyphae, in the later stage, the rhizome decays and the plant dies.

Prevention and cure method

Change the basin soil in time, disinfect the soil at high temperature before changing the basin, and sprinkle with pentachloronitrobenzene powder or lime.

Usually in the maintenance, pay attention to more ventilation, more light, to keep the drainage system of the basin soil good.

The seriously diseased plants were pulled out in time and burned.

Anthrax

It can happen all the year round, and the high temperature and rainy season is more common.

The disease spot spreads from the leaf tip to the rhizome, at first it is brown, then gradually expands and increases, there are many dry black spots, and in severe cases the plant dies.

Prevention and cure method

During the onset period, 50% methyl topiramate wettable powder 800m / m / m can be sprayed once every 10 days, and then supplemented with 1% equivalent Bordeaux solution, once every semimonthly, for 3 consecutive times.

Insect pests and control methods of Magnolia bract

Shell worm

Commonly known as "blue lice", it multiplies fastest under the condition of high temperature, high humidity and poor air circulation.

It will suck the sap from the leaves of the orchid, causing the leaves to fall off, slow plant growth and serious plant death.

Prevention and cure method

During the incubation period, 1% omethoate or 1500 times 50% Mara sulfur was sprayed.

If the number of domesticated magnolia is small, it can be brushed off manually.

How to cultivate Magnolia mandshurica

How to raise glossy orchid? Many people do not know much about glossy orchid, which is distributed in China, northeastern India, Myanmar, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand. This flower is cultivated, so let's take a closer look at the relevant knowledge of Magnolia.

An introduction to glossy orchid

Bract tongue orchid (scientific name: Spathoglottis pubescens Lindl.): pseudoblate bulb, usually 1-2.5cm thick, leathery scalelike sheath, terminal 1-3 leaves. Leaves banded or narrowly lanceolate, both surfaces glabrous. Scape slender or stout, to 50 cm long, densely pilose, proximally by several tubular sheaths clasped to inflorescence stalk; racemes 2-9 cm long, sparsely 2-8-flowered; flowers yellow; sepals elliptic, with 7 veins, abaxially pilose; petals broadly oblong, as long as sepals, 9-10 mm wide, apex obtuse, with 5-6 main veins, lateral main veins branched, both surfaces glabrous; lips ca. as long as petals, 3-lobed. The florescence is from July to October.

The orchid is born in the grass or under the sparse forest on the hillside at an altitude of 380-1700 m. Distributed in China, northeastern India, Myanmar, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand. This flower is cultivated and has high horticultural value.

1. Morphological characteristics

Stem: bract tongue orchid pseudoblate bulb oblate, usually 1-2.5 cm thick, covered with leathery scalelike sheath, terminal 1-3 leaves.

Leaves: leaves banded or narrowly lanceolate, up to 43 cm long and 1-1.7 (- 4-5) cm wide, apex acuminate, base narrowed into fine stalks, both surfaces glabrous.

Scape: scapes slender or stout, up to 50 cm long, densely pilose, lower part by several tubular sheaths clasped to inflorescence stalk; racemes 2-9 cm long, sparsely 2-8 flowers; floral bracts lanceolate or ovate-lanceolate, 5-9 mm long, pilose; pedicels and ovary 2-2.5 cm long, densely pilose; flowers yellow. Sepals elliptic, usually 12-17 mm long and 5-7 mm wide, apex slightly obtuse or acute, with 7 veins, abaxially pilose.

Petals: petals of glossy orchid broadly oblong, as long as sepals, 9-10 mm wide, apex obtuse, with 5-6 main veins, lateral main veins branched, both surfaces glabrous; lip ca. as long as petals, 3-lobed; lateral lobes erect, falcate-oblong, ca. 2 times as long as width, apex rounded or truncated, sunken between two lobes and saccate. Middle lobe Obovate-cuneate, ca. 1.3 cm, apex subtruncate and emarginate, base clawed; claws short and wide, with a pair of semicircular, fleshy appendages above, sometimes with a slightly raised obtuse tooth on each side of the base; labial disc with 3 longitudinal keel ridges, with a central raised fleshy fold; core column 8-10 mm long; staminal beak suborbicular.

The florescence of glossy orchid is from July to October.

2. Ecological habits

Magnolia generally grows on the hillside and valley walls of deep mountain valleys, sloping slopes or stone gaps with good water permeability and water retention, next to sparse mountain grass, and shaded by secondary trees. Or a place with shade, short sunshine or only scattered stars. Places with high humidity and good air circulation are sometimes born on the cliffs of mountains and streams. Orchids should be planted in a ventilated environment. Sex likes yin, avoid direct sunlight, like moist, avoid dryness, 15 ℃ to 30 ℃ is the most suitable for growth. The growth was poor above 35 ℃. The severe cold below 5 ℃ will affect its growth, at this time, orchids are often in a dormant state. If the temperature is too high and the sun is exposed, the leaves will burn or scorch within a day or two. If the temperature is too low and it is not transferred into the house in time, frostbite will occur. Orchid is a fleshy root, suitable for the use of sandy loam rich in humus, drainage performance must be good, humus soil or mountain soil with more humus should be selected. The pH value of slightly acidic loose soil or iron-containing soil should be 5.5-6.5.

Culture methods of Magnolia paniculata

I. cultivation techniques of Magnolia paniculata

1. Orchid shed

The orchid shed and the orchid house should choose the place with the back west to the east, the southeast direction is empty, and the west back direction has high walls or big trees. Can not only see the early sun, but also block the scorching sun. A courtyard with clean air and a certain degree of humidity. Pay attention to ventilation, exposure, avoiding the hot sun, avoiding smoking and so on. If built on the roof or floor balcony, in addition to the shade above, mainly hang curtains in the northwest to prevent the grass leaves from being burned by the setting sun after noon. It is best to use mud or a clear pool under the orchid shed to keep the air around the orchid shed moist. And pay attention to the cleaning of the ground to prevent the breeding of diseases and insect pests. When the outdoor temperature drops to about 0 ℃, the orchid pot must be moved indoors to prevent frostbite. If the weather is fine in winter, the temperature in the orchid room can exceed 15 ℃, but the room temperature decreases in cloudy, rainy, windy and snowy weather. It should be heated and illuminated to keep the room temperature at 15 ℃. No need to heat up at night, just keep it for 5 ℃. Heating can be carried out in late autumn and early winter in order to promote the full maturity of new plants in that year. However, from the middle of December to the end of January, there is no need to heat up, keeping the room temperature no less than 5 ℃, leaving its vegetative growth in a very slow state. From February onwards, humidification, heating, full light, so that orchids enter the growth period ahead of time. After heating, the new buds germinated ahead of time, and the new buds were generally unearthed after 45 days of heating. The plant can be grown after another 90 days. By the middle of June, the second new bud was unearthed again, thus achieving the effect of growing two batches of new seedlings in one year. When heating in winter, you should pay attention to adding light, but you must not keep heating 24 hours a day so that there is no temperature difference. In addition, heating should not be too high, more than 25 ℃ is harmful but not beneficial.

2. Install the basin

The time of putting on the basin (or turning the basin) is usually from March to April in spring or from October to November in autumn. Flowerpots with small mouth, deep pot, large bottom hole is better. Wild seedlings newly dug from the mountain should be planted in tile basin (mud basin), so that the orchid mud is easy to dry and well ventilated. Easy to root; purple sand basin or porcelain basin can not be replaced until 2-3 years later. The method of orchid planting (in the pot) is different from the general flowers, especially the famous orchids, the roots must be washed. Methods soak the roots in clean water, wash them gently with an old toothbrush or brush, do not hurt the roots too hard, cut off the residual leaves, yellow leaves, broken roots, black and rotten roots with scissors, and be careful not to hurt the buds. Then put the treated plants in a cool and ventilated place to dry, wait for the roots to be white and show small wrinkles soft, and then implanted in the basin.

Method one

After preparing the orchid pot and plant material, put the orchid plant upside down (root on the top, leaf on the bottom) under the faucet and rinse with slow water, but the water pressure must not be too strong, so as not to hurt the orchid root and leaf. Grasp the orchid head with your thumb and index finger, hold the little finger against the edge of the basin, and fix the root with bamboo chopsticks. When you put it into the basin, try not to let the root touch the basin wall. Pour the pea-sized mixed gravel into the bottom of the basin to 1/3. Then pour in the medium-grain plant to four-fifths, fill it and try not to leave any space. Pull out the bamboo chopsticks and plant the material in a solid bowl. After filling the plant material, use large grain plant material to 1.5 cm away from the edge of the basin. Finally, pour the bean seed into the large plant, bury all the false bulbs in the soil, and then shake them fully. Gently press the plant with earth pressing tools and flatten the surface. After planting, it is better to plant a little higher in the middle of the basin.

Method two

To pay attention to the drainage of the basin bottom, the mud basin is filled with broken tiles, and the purple sand basin must be covered with perforated nylon gauze. Before planting, cover the basin with coarse stones, accounting for about 2 to 5 percent of the basin depth, rough stone culture soil, 3-5 centimeters thick, and then put in bluegrass. When putting on the basin, pay attention to the root to self-expand, not curl. When planting a famous species of bluegrass, be sure to put the old grass aside and the new grass in the center, so that there is room for new grass. When planting, hold the bluegrass in the left hand and add mud in the right hand (to prevent the soil from penetrating into the center of the leaves), and then lift the orchid plant slightly to make the roots stretch naturally. Then shake the basin while adding soil so that the soil is in close contact with the root. Then use your hands to press the soil around the stem, and finally make the basin slightly steamed bread (that is, slightly lower around the middle). It is covered with a layer of moss or fine pebbles, so that the basin soil is not easy to consolidate and can reduce water evaporation. After putting on the basin, water it immediately. There should be enough water for the first time. Finally, put the orchid bowl in the shade. Should not directly bask in the sun within a month, and control watering, should not be too wet, and then choose to place in the half-yin and half-yang, ventilated and breathable place where the sun is shining in the morning.

3. Watering

Watering in the peak period of orchid growth, once the lack of water in summer, the orchid growth is poor, orchids need eight points dry, two minutes wet. Watering should be in line with the principle of "dry is poured, wet is stopped, and properly dry". The water must be thoroughly watered, not half of it. The watering times can depend on the plant material of the pot orchid. For example, hard hydrophobic plants such as volcanic stone, red brick grain and pumice can be supplied once a day, while plants with strong water absorption such as pond mud and humus can be supplied once in two or three days. Watering is usually carried out in the early morning or evening. Do not water and pour at noon. It is better to use clean, pollution-free, slightly acidic water (pH value 5.56.5). Orchids rotten roots, black spots on the leaves, leaf bud rot and other morbid, mostly related to improper water supply.

After flowers and plants are planted, the first watering is called "fixed root water". The fixed root water must be thoroughly watered. Generally speaking, the basin should be watered twice in a row, and the first time it should be watered again after seeing that the water flows out of the bottom hole of the basin. Choose the appropriate watering method. The spraying method is usually used, which can not only increase the air humidity, but also wash the foliar dust. But for the flowers with fluffy leaves or blooming flowers, it is not suitable to spray the flowerpot, but should put the whole flowerpot in the basin, so that the water does not flood the mouth of the basin, and make use of the bottom hole to make the basin soil moist. Watch the temperature of the water. If there is a big difference between the water temperature and the soil temperature (more than 6 ℃), keep the water indoors for a period of time in winter, or slightly warm water, so that the water temperature rises to about 15 ℃ before watering the flowers; in summer, watering should be avoided in the hot sun and high temperature at noon. Watering time. In spring, autumn and winter, about 10:00 in the morning and after 4 o'clock in the afternoon are the most suitable time to water flowers.

4. Fertilization

Farm manure is a good organic fertilizer, but it must be deposited and mature for more than a year before it can be applied. Can use this kind of fertilizer liquid to water 10-20 times, apply on the edge of the basin as far as possible, do not touch the root, do not touch the orchid leaf. When applying chemical fertilizer, we should pay attention to the balance of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and strictly control the concentration. Ye Yi seedlings should control the synthesis of chlorophyll and should not apply nitrogen fertilizer or fertilizers containing manganese and magnesium (such as calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer, etc.). Because manganese and magnesium can accelerate the synthesis of chlorophyll for orchid, if you cultivate large petal flowers, you can apply appropriate amount of nitrogen fertilizer. Foliar fertilizer spraying can not only absorb and supplement the nutrition of orchid plants through orchid leaves, but also will not cause fertilizer damage to the roots, which is the best way to apply fertilizer to orchids. As long as in the growth and development period, adhere to a foliar fertilizer spraying for about 10 days, orchids can be raised well, and there is no need to apply fertilizer to the basin. 1 ∶ 1000 potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 1 ∶ 1000 boron fertilizer can be used, or aloe solution can be used. Because aloe contains a large number of nutrients such as polysaccharides and amino acids, and contains more than 20 kinds of minerals, which can meet the nutrients needed by orchids, and aloe contains remote aloe tincture can kill almost all germs and viruses. there is no need to apply pesticides to prevent disease after application. Fertilization should be applied sparsely, eat less and eat more: orchids do not need much fertilizer in the growing period, and for strong orchid plants, thin liquid fertilizer can be applied every 10-15 days. Mainly natural organic matter. Natural organic fertilizer has more comprehensive nutrient elements, no need to apply other fertilizers, and has no side effects on plants, while chemical fertilizer is easy to harden the matrix, and most of the fertilizers are acidic. Long-term application will cause excessive acid in the matrix and cause diseases.

Second, the mode of propagation of Magnolia.

Ramet propagation

It can be carried out in both spring and autumn, usually every three years. All plants with dense pseudocorms can be ramified, and at least 5 connected pseudocorms should be preserved in each clump. Irrigation should be reduced before splitting, so that the basin soil is better than. When putting on the basin after ramet, first cover the bottom hole of the basin with broken tiles, then cover with coarse stones, occupy the depth of the basin from 5 to 1, and then put coarse-grained soil and a small amount of fine soil, and then plant it with sandy loam rich in humus. Planting depth to the false bulb just buried in the soil strength, the edge of the basin left 2 cm along the mouth, covered with green cloud grass or fine stones, and finally watered thoroughly, placed in the shade for 10-15 days, keep the soil moist, gradually reduce watering, and carry out normal maintenance.

3. Disease control of Magnolia paniculata

(1) Disease control

1. Sheath rust

Usually on the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves, there are fewer protruding vesicles on the stem, containing yellow, orange, rust, or even purplish-black powdery spores. Rust is not fatal and leaves do not die, but it weakens plant growth. In addition to cutting off diseased leaves, 65% Dysen zinc powder 500-600 times or copper-containing fungicides can be sprayed.

2. White silk disease

It mostly occurs in the mildew and rainy season. At the beginning of the disease, the leaf base was covered with white silk. Causing the roots to rot. Prevention and treatment: remove the basin soil with bacteria and sprinkle with pentachloronitrobenzene powder or lime. Radical cure: pay attention to ventilation and light transmission, basin soil drainage is good. Seriously diseased plants will be burned.

3. Anthrax

All the year round, the high temperature and rainy season is more rampant, and Jianlan is especially infected. The disease spot first extends from the leaf tip to the rhizome, which is brown at first, then gradually expands and increases, and many dry black spots appear, which in severe cases lead to the death of the whole plant. Prevention and treatment methods: in addition to actively improving the environmental conditions of Bodhisattva, during the onset period, 50% methyl thiophanate wettable powder 800kw / kg can be sprayed once every 7-10 days, and then supplemented with 1% equivalent Bordeaux solution, once every semimonthly, 3-5 times continuously.

(2) Pest control

Shell worm

Commonly known as "blue lice". In the case of high temperature and humidity and poor air flow, reproduction is the fastest. 1% omethoate or 1500 times 50% Mara sulfur can be sprayed during the incubation period. If the number of pots is small, it can also be brushed out manually.