Planting method of Peacock Bamboo Taro

Selection of basin:

The height of 14cm basin is 35-40cm, the crown width is 25-30cm 1-2 plants per basin.

Matrix preparation:

Use the loose, draining and ventilating substrate as the cultivation substrate (the available specification is 5-40 imported peat). Stir the substrate with 1000 times chlorothalonil before transplanting, and mix the matrix well with the medicine solution. (the standard of adding water: after mixing well with water, hold a handful of peat tightly in hand, and water seeps from the fingers) to be planted in the cup.

Requirements for screening seedlings:

Select professional high-quality seedlings, seedling height 7-8 "(with bottom matrix), 4-5 leaves, no diseases and insect pests, no withered leaves, yellow leaves.

Put on the basin:

For the old basin that is re-used, it must be soaked in potassium permanganate 1000 times solution for more than half an hour, then rinse with clean water and dry for use. The new basin can be used directly. Generally, first use a smaller flowerpot (9cm plastic pot) to plant, first cushion the appropriate substrate at the bottom of the cup, and then move the sieve seedlings into the cup, the seedlings can be appropriately planted deeper, with the base of the flat plant slightly above, 1-2 plants / pot; the matrix is loose and tight moderately, filled with 9 minutes of the cup, gently vibrate the basin soil, and pour semi-permeable or surface water with fixed root water.

What about the yellowing of peacock bamboo taro leaves? the culture method of peacock bamboo taro

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Placing peacock bamboo taro plants in the home not only has a good decorative effect, but also has the effect of removing formaldehyde. The effect of removing formaldehyde is half of that of Cymbidium. But it's much higher than ordinary botanical medicine. In addition to these functions, it can also remove ammonia pollution from the air. The main purpose of this issue is to tell you what to do if the peacock taro leaves turn yellow. The breeding methods of peacock taro are those to help people better breed peacock taro plants.

[culture method of peacock bamboo taro] first: cultivation environment. Peacock bamboo taro likes high temperature and humid environment and has strong negative resistance. It grows well under indoor scattered light and should be cultivated in loose, fertile and well-drained soil. Second: growth temperature, moderate. ① temperature. The optimum growth temperature of peacock bamboo taro is about 22 ℃. When the summer temperature is higher than 35 ℃, not only the plant growth is stagnant, but also the leaf color turns yellow and loses ornamental value. But in winter, we must pay attention to cold and heat preservation, and the room temperature should be kept above 13 ℃. ② humidity. The suitable air humidity of peacock bamboo taro is 70%-75%. When sending new leaves, the humidity requirement is higher, and the section should be fully watered to keep the soil moist. Watering should be controlled in winter, and the basin soil can be slightly wet. Third: selection of pots and fertilization. ① chooses the basin. Peacock bamboo taro is a shallow root plant, and the cultivation container should choose a large mouth and shallow basin to facilitate the elongation of the root system. Generally, the basin is changed at the turn of spring and summer combined with ramet propagation, and the basin is changed once every 2 years. ② fertilization. Dilute liquid fertilizer should be applied every half a month in the peak growing season of peacock bamboo taro, and attention should be paid not to apply too much nitrogen fertilizer in order to avoid leaf speckle fading. Fourth: reproduction. Peacock bamboo taro is mostly propagated by individual plants, which is combined with pot change and soil change from April to May in spring. The ramet is too early, the temperature is too low, the wound heals slowly, it is easy to cause rot and reduce the survival rate. [what if the peacock taro leaves turn yellow] here are several situations in which the peacock bamboo taro leaves appear yellow leaves, that is, the yellow leaves. The main results are as follows: 1. Water yellow: the young leaves are dark yellow and dull, the old leaves have no obvious change, the branches are small and yellow-green, and the new shoots are not long, indicating that they are overwatered. Remove the flowers from the pot and place them in a ventilated, cool, self-drying soil mass and then put them back into the basin. 2. Dry yellow: the yellow with lack of water is different from the yellow with more water, the yellow with lack of water is withered or dry at the tip or edge of the leaf, and the old leaves wither and fall off from the bottom up, but the growth of the new leaves is relatively normal. Pay attention to watering enough and thoroughly. 3. Burning yellow: strong sunlight shines directly on some shade-loving flowers (such as orchid, peacock taro, hairpin, etc.), which can easily cause withered leaf tips and edges, and yellow spots in the sunny part of the leaves. Just move to the shade. 4. Fat yellow: flowers yellowing caused by too much fertilization or too much concentration, showing dry brown at the tip of new leaves, general leaf thickening and no luster, and concave and convex not stretching, old leaves scorched yellow shedding. Fertilizer should be stopped immediately and some fertilizers should be washed with a large amount of washing. Conclusion: the above is the method of breeding peacock bamboo taro and the method of yellowing leaves, how to do it. Peacock bamboo taro plant is very decorative, but also can remove formaldehyde. Therefore, it is a necessary green plant in the home. If you want to know more about home decoration plants, please continue to follow our love nest decoration information.

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Culture methods of peacock bamboo taro growth habits of peacock bamboo taro

Peacock bamboo taro, also known as blue banana, five-color kudzu, etc., is a perennial evergreen herb of the family Amorphophallus. It is native to Brazil. The leaves are thin leathery, ovate-shaped, and have feathery markings of dark green and white or yellowish on the leaf surface, just like the patterns on peacock tail feathers. They are graceful and charming. Let's take a look at the breeding methods of peacock taro.

Growth habits of Peacock Bamboo Taro

Peacock bamboo taro prefers semi-shade, is not resistant to direct sunlight, and adapts to growing in a warm and humid environment. The cultivation should be shaded to a certain extent, and the temperature should be kept at about 12-29 ℃, and the winter temperature should be maintained at 16-18 ℃. The growth is exuberant in spring and summer, and high air humidity is needed, so it can be sprayed. The soil is not very strict, but it is required to keep moderately moist. In the growing season, fertilizer is applied once every two weeks, while the soil can be slightly dry and cool in winter, and the times of fertilization are reduced.

Propagation methods of Peacock Bamboo Taro

1. Ramet: ramet propagation is carried out every year when the daily temperature is about 20 ℃ in early summer. After the old plant with dense growth is dug up, it is appropriate to leave 2 or 3 lingering buds in each section along the underground rhizome. Immediately after cutting, it is placed in the basin and placed in a cool place for a week, and then gradually moved to a place with sufficient light. The moisture should be controlled at the initial stage of ramet planting, and the new roots should be fully watered.

2. Cutting: cutting propagation usually selects young branches with 2 to 3 leaves at the base as cuttings in summer, or uses some kinds of stolon cuttings. It can be mixed with peat soil and river sand, or vermiculite and perlite can be used as substrates to keep it moist. It can take root in about 5 weeks and be planted in pots.

Culture method of Peacock Bamboo Taro

1. Soil: the pot culture of peacock bamboo taro should use slightly acidic loam with loose, fertile, good drainage and rich humus. Generally, it can be mixed with 3 parts of rotten leaf soil, 1 part of peat or sawdust and 1 part of sand, and a small amount of bean cake is added as base fertilizer. Avoid heavy and sticky garden soil. When putting on the basin, the bottom of the basin is padded with 3 cm thick coarse sand as a drainage layer to facilitate drainage.

2. Moisture: sufficient water should be given during the growing period of peacock taro, especially in summer and autumn, in addition to keeping the basin soil moist, it is also necessary to spray water to the leaves to cool and moisturize. High air humidity is required, preferably 70% to 80%. Avoid dry air and dry soil, but do not accumulate water. Moisture should be controlled after the end of autumn in order to resist cold and survive the winter.

3. Sunshine: peacock taro should be placed in shade or semi-shade during the growing season from May to September to maintain a light transmittance of 40% and 60% to avoid direct sunlight. Excessive light or dry air can easily lead to scorched leaf tips and dull leaf markings. But if the light is too weak, it will grow weak and lose the metallic luster unique to the leaf surface. Direct sunlight through glass is acceptable in winter.

4. Fertilizer: when the peacock bamboo taro is short of fertilizer, the plant is obviously short, the leaf color is dim, and the golden luster is not bright. During the growing period, thin liquid fertilizer is applied every 20 days, and the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be 2:1:1, which can make the leaves glossy and bright, and the proportion of nitrogen fertilizer is too large. If 0.2% liquid fertilizer is directly sprayed on the leaf surface every 10 days, it is extremely beneficial to sprouting and growth. Stop spinning fertilizer in winter and summer.

5. Diseases and insect pests: Peacock bamboo taro has fewer diseases and insect pests, but under the condition of dry air and poor ventilation, it is easy to grow shell insects, whitefly and so on, which can be sprayed with 1000 times of 25% imidophos emulsion or 40% omethoate 1500 times.

6. Change the basin: the peacock taro usually changes the pot every 1-2 years, adding new culture soil, cutting off the residual roots and leaves, and replanting it to facilitate growth.