MySheen

Hydroponic culture of saffron

Published: 2024-11-22 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/22, Hydroponic culture means that saffron can germinate and blossom by putting it directly into the water, which is much easier than sowing in the soil. It's all because of its powerful roots. The specific way to do this is to put water in a container made of glass or plastic, and then put the root of saffron into it.

Hydroponic culture means that saffron can germinate and blossom by putting it directly into the water, which is much easier than sowing in the soil. It's all because of its powerful roots.

The specific method of operation is to put water in a container made of glass or plastic, and then put the root of saffron into it, waiting for the precipitation of time to produce beautiful crocuses.

1. Hydroponic time

It usually starts from late September to October.

two。 Bulb selection

Choose a large bulb, which can store more nutrients.

3. The method of placing bulbs

The bottom of the bulb only needs to touch some water slightly. When placing the bulb, the container for cultivating the bulb should be covered with a black cloth or placed in a dark place so that it can take root.

4. Change water

The water in the container is changed every 7-15 days or so.

Do you think the method of hydroponic culture of saffron is very simple? in fact, as long as you carefully look at the above steps, you will soon learn the method of hydroponic culture of saffron. If we grow saffron, we can not only enjoy it, but also dry it. So how should I take saffron? Let's go and study together.

Hydroponic culture of tulips

People have known about flower hydroponics for a long time. Hyacinth and crocuses, in particular, put their bulbs on glass bottles filled with water to make them blossom, using hydroponic culture. Or put the bulbs of tulips and daffodils in a narrow container filled with coarse sand and add water to grow indoors. Although the planting results are OK, professional growers still like to use soil and later switch to substrates for flower production. The search for other materials for cultivation only began later.

The first attempt to grow tulips by hydroponics. The attempt of hydroponic culture of cut tulip flowers began in the 1970s. At that time, some growers in Denmark and southern Sweden used hydroponics to grow 5 °C tulips. To this end, they spread plastic film in the seedbed, which was filled with water. The seed balls of tulips are fixed to the plastic foam board and make them float on the water. However, after several years of practice, the method was eliminated because these plastic foam boards could not provide sufficient support for planting balls.

Hydroponics in Holland

In the Netherlands, the demand for hydroponics began in 1988. Because in this year, the Dutch government promulgated a bill on plant protection. In this bill, the use of pesticides and the discharge of their waste liquid into the environment are regulated, that is, the use will be reduced by 45% by 1995 and to 60% by the year 2000. That is to say, in order to achieve the above goals, the production of bulbous flowers should be carried out in a closed system. Because growers engaged in commercial production are also looking for a technologically reliable and more economical planting method to bring them more benefits, they have the idea of hydroponics. When substrate cultivation is carried out in a closed system, growers will encounter problems such as difficulties in obtaining substrates, susceptibility to diseases, disease control (especially Pythium) and the abandonment of waste cultivation substrates. This forces research institutions to look for a substrate that can avoid or at least reduce the occurrence of these problems. Many substrates have been developed, but by contrast, the rooting substrates previously used are the best. In addition, the result of using water as substrate for cultivation is in the second place! Water is not only very easy to get, but also cheap and suitable for recycling. The only problem is how to fix the seed ball. But people in the ball-growing flower-growing industry have solved the problem.

The grower's solution. The growers of ball flowers have found a solution to the problem. In the fall of 1990, Triflor began to ask Tempex to produce a planting plate by hand, in which the seed ball was placed on a cup filled with water and fixed through several toothpicks at the mouth of the cup. Later, Curtec tested two planting seasons using a plastic tray with a similar principle, and then they began to produce their own CurTec plates during the 92Compact 93 planting season. A year later, the tray was put on the market and evaluated by many growers. At the same time, another company, Kenn, has also launched its own Kenn planting plate, which is fixed by rows of needles at the bottom.

The problems encountered. Unfortunately, there are some problems in the process of cut flower cultivation. No matter what kind of planting plate is used, in the greenhouse cultivation stage, a layer of sticky material caused by bacteria will be formed on the roots of the plant. Through research, it is found that this is caused by lack of oxygen in the water. Another problem is that when planting on a Kenn plate, the roots of the adjacent tulip bulbs are intertwined, causing other bulbs to move around during the harvest. All in all, the results of planting are more disappointing. After experimenting with a growing season, many growers stop using hydroponic methods to produce cut tulips. In spite of this, there are still some growers who have achieved good results who insist on hydroponic production. The Dutch bulbous Flower Research Center uses some of the inspiration of these growers in actual production and continues its research work.

The solution. Individual growers and research institutions have also found that these two problems can be solved by delaying the planting of tulips. "delayed planting" here means that tulips are not planted until three weeks or even a week before the planting plate is moved into the greenhouse. Through the improvement of the production system, a good planting effect has been obtained. In the 97Accord 98 planting season, the number of people using hydroponic culture to plant tulips increased significantly. At that time, hydroponic production accounted for about 0.8% of the total Dutch tulip production. After that, the proportion gradually increased to 12%, 20% and 35%, and it is estimated that the proportion will reach 40% in the 01x02 planting season.

The advantages and disadvantages of hydroponics. The hydroponic culture of tulips has both advantages and disadvantages for growers. This determines whether a professional grower will change their old planting method to hydroponic cultivation.

These advantages and disadvantages are:

Advantages: unnecessary reinvestment in facilities, equipment such as turnover boxes, production lines, and rooting rooms (controlled greenhouses) can be reduced; unnecessary use of rooting substrates and sand covering bulbs; clean working environment; high degree of mechanization; less energy required in the greenhouse stage of cold treatment; no adverse reactions such as growing fungi on dead roots when using rooting substrates The speed of harvest is accelerated by 35%; there is less damage to leaves during harvest; the harvested products are clean; the use of pesticides is greatly reduced; there is no residual discharge of pesticides or fertilizers; and the problem of dealing with waste matrix is avoided.

Disadvantages: need at least two temperature-controlled cold storage (one temperature is set at 2 °C for dry bulb treatment; another temperature is set at 5 °C for rooting); need to buy water culture plates; need to have a system for disinfection of water culture plates; bulbs are sometimes planted and harvested at the same time; for late bulbs, the quality of their products decreases; the roots of some varieties turn brown; the leaves of plants are easy to crack. According to the variety, the weight of general products is lighter, and the solutions to the last four problems in the treatment of waste water after use are currently being studied. Measures are now being taken to disinfect the planting plate after each planting season to reduce or prevent the occurrence of these problems. In fact, after hydroponic cultivation, the problem of Pythium was eliminated. All kinds of tulip hydroponic container systems for tulip cultivation can be roughly divided into two types: living water system and still water system.

As a living water system, the types of containers are: De Vries aluminum alloy seedling bed, Holland water culture plate, X-type water, culture plate and ebb tide water culture system.

The still water system container includes: Empire disk, triangular groove disk, Flexidisc and needle disc.

The advantages of live water systems are: easy control of oxygen content, electrical conductivity, pH, and temperature; these containers do not require a water supply system; and sometimes increase the weight of the product.

The disadvantages of the running water system are: the risk of spreading germs and the need for a continuous purification system.

The advantages of the still water system are: less investment; less changes; temporary workers can be used; and the spread of germs can be controlled due to the use of a single disk.

The disadvantages of the still water system are: the treatment of waste water these container systems have different methods of fixing the seed ball. One is piercing (needle plate and Dutch hydroponic plate), the other is contactless (De Vries aluminum alloy nursery bed), and the other is wrapped (several other planting plates). Unlike piercing plates, the other two types of trays can plant tulip bulbs on the plate in advance and cool them for a period of time before watering them. However, the problem with these two systems is that the fixation effect is poor, because the bulb root system grows less, and the plant is easy to fall out later. Currently, 95% of production is done through needle disks, that is, the Kenn disks we mentioned earlier. Therefore, the content described below is based on the system and the planting tray is put into the outlet box (60 cm x 40 cm) for production. The culture method of saffron the language of saffron

Saffron is a common spice. Do you know anything about it? Today, I will introduce to you the culture method of saffron and the knowledge of saffron language.

Culture methods of saffron

Saffron likes a warm and humid environment and is afraid of extreme heat. The suitable temperature for growth and flowering is about 15 ℃ and 16 ℃ to 20 ℃ respectively. Afraid of extreme heat, more hardy, avoid continuous cropping. Loose, fertile and well-drained sandy loam with a ph of 5.5 to 6.5 is required. Avoid sticky soil and wet water for a long time.

The growth of saffron is characterized by dormancy in summer, rooting in autumn, long leaves, flowering from October to November, and flowers blooming day and night. It does not bear fruit under general cultivation conditions, and the whole growth period is about 210 days. Both spring flowers and autumn flowers are bulbous flowers planted in autumn. That is, it begins to sprout in autumn, blossoms in winter and spring, the fruiting species bear fruit, and the summer enters the dormant period.

The life span of saffron bulbs is one year, similar to tulips, the new and old bulbs are renewed alternately every year.

It is appropriate to choose spring flowering varieties for family potted crocuses. Generally speaking, 5-7 bulbs can be planted in tile pots with a caliber of 15 cm and 18 cm, which can be planted from September to October. After planting, pour water and first put outdoor culture, and then move to the cold room after rooting, the room temperature is slightly higher than the outdoor temperature, give sufficient light to blossom at that time. Hydroponic cultivation can also be used to cultivate crocuses.

The floral language of saffron

Saffron is: waiting for you, the joy of youth, restlessness, concern, do not speak ill of, abstinence.

Saffron stems are very short and do not protrude from the ground; flowers are light blue, reddish purple or white; inner and outer perianth lobes are Obovate; stamens erect, anthers yellow; style orange-red, ca. 4 cm; capsule oval, ca. 3 cm; florescence October-November, flowers open day and night closed.

 
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