How to improve the cuttage survival rate of red leaf cherry blossom

The most effective method for rapid breeding of red-leaf cherry blossoms is to use grafting propagation technique. if larger mountain cherry trees, hairy cherry trees and cherry trees are used for panicle grafting or bud grafting, it can be formed and achieve a better landscape effect after two to three years of cultivation. The best grafting time of red-leaf cherry blossoms in the south of the Yangtze River basin is from December of each year to February of the following year.

1. Preparation of grafting materials

The main results are as follows: (1) the plastic sheet with suitable thickness and strong elasticity (which can be gradually contracted and recovered after stretching) is selected. After rolling more than ten layers, it is cut into strips with a width of 0.8 cm to the left, and then cut into a small section of about 10 cm after cutting. Tie it into small handfuls.

(2) other supplies ① wet cloth: used to cover, transport and store scions for a short time. ② jar: used for temporary storage of scions during grafting to avoid loss of water.

2. Scion material preparation

The main results are as follows: (1) the current year strips with pure variety, strong growth, bright color and disease-free operation should be selected for scion collection. The best time for collection is early morning. When cutting the ear, the cut should be smooth, and do not hurt the ear skin. Pick the scion, and then wrap it with a wet cloth. Care should be taken to avoid scratches and scratches on the scion during binding and transportation.

(2) scion preservation ① put the scion bundled into a handle upward and put it in a woven bag, tie the rope in the bag and hang it in the well, first dip the base of the scion in water, and then lift it out of the water, which can be stored for about a week. ② dug a hole in the shade, long and wide enough to fit into the scion, buried in wet soil, shaded with weeds, or stored for a week or so. When there are few ③ scions, you can also use a washbasin to hold half a basin of water, soak the base of the scion in water and store it in a cool place. Change the water once a day or two, and it can be stored for several days.

3. Bud grafting

(1) select the full fresh bud in the middle of the scion, cut a knife from 0.5 cm above the bud (roll less than half a circle with the scion in place when cutting) to the xylem, then tilt upward from about 0.8 cm below the bud, and then gradually deepen the cutting of the xylem. Cut into the upper transverse cut of the bud and stop the knife (no grip is too heavy during operation to avoid injury and other buds). Gently pinch both sides of the bud with your thumb and index finger, slowly break off the skin of the bud, and do not pinch the bud. The removed buds are shield-shaped, about 1.2 to 1.5 cm long and 0.5 to 0.7 cm wide. Two points can be seen obviously on the inside of the bud, the lower part is the petiole growth point, and the upper part is the bud growth point. Where the bud growth point becomes black, brown, yellow or shedding scratches, can not be used.

(2) rootstock: if a large size plant is used as a rootstock, it should be trimmed as a whole according to the forming requirements before grafting, and the trimming incision should be tripped with thin film to prevent water evaporation. after pruning treatment, the grafting interface should be selected according to the actual needs, and then the specific operation of grafting should be carried out. The specific steps are as follows:

The first step is to cut across 10 to 15 centimeters below the trim mouth (the blade rolls less than half a circle) to cut through the skin without harming the xylem. Then cut 1.5 cm longitudinally from the horizontal incision (slightly longer than the bud), and the depth is the same as the horizontal knife edge, so that it is T-shaped. Then use the knife along the longitudinal incision left and right twist to pry open the cortex.

The second step is to pry open the cortex with the knife, hold the buds in the left hand, gently press down the rootstock and insert the buds with the knife. When inserting buds, do not rub on the rootstock to protect the growth point and make the upper plane of the buds closely coincide with the upper plane of the nail mouth of the sleeper.

The third step is to finish the grafting, that is, wrap it with plastic strips. The first requirement is to bind tightly so that the buds are closely combined with the rootstock, leaving no space. Second, the T-shaped mouth should be strictly wrapped and not exposed, which can not only prevent water evaporation and facilitate the survival of the buds, but also prevent pests from laying eggs in the wound, and the larvae will be eaten after hatching, resulting in the death of the buds. Third, be fast, which is the key to the survival of grafting. The exposure time of bud grafting should be reduced as much as possible, the operation technique should be skillful and the grafting speed should be improved. When the binding strip, hold one end of the binding bar with your left hand, wind it two or three times from the upper end of the T-shaped mouth, wrap the lower incision, and then spiral up to make the upper and lower layers worse, and then pull the two ends of the binding strip upward and then cross and tie the knot. The advantage of this method is that it can prevent Rain Water from entering and cause rotten bud, and it can also be combined with anvil shear to cut the binding joint, which does not need to be specially unbound and saves time and labor.

How to improve the cuttage survival rate of red-leaf cherry blossoms Red-leaf cherry blossoms are a variety of magnificent cherry blossoms, belonging to the rose family, with purple-red leaves in three seasons, small deciduous trees, large pink flowers, dark red in early spring, bright red in May-July, dark purple in the old leaves and orange in the frost season in late autumn. Cherry blossoms are famous flowers and trees. Red-leaf cherry blossoms can watch not only flowers but also leaves. It is a valuable ornamental color-leaf tree species to replace purple-leaf dwarf cherry and red-leaf plum in landscape architecture and urban greening. It is widely planted in North China, East China, South China, Central Plains, Northeast and Northwest China.

Technical Department of Hangzhou Xiaoshan Luyuan Seedling Distribution Co., Ltd. Answer: the most effective method for rapid breeding of red leaf cherry blossoms is to use grafting culture technology. If larger mountain cherry trees, hairy cherry trees and cherry trees are used for panicle grafting or bud grafting, only after two to three years of cultivation, it can be formed and achieve a better landscape effect. The grafting time of red leaf cherry blossoms has different requirements according to the different methods used. In general, the scion method is used, and the best time in the south of the Yangtze River basin is from December of each year to February of the following year. The following is a brief introduction to the grafting technique. 1. Grafting material preparation (1) the plastic sheet with suitable thickness and strong elasticity (which can gradually shrink and recover after stretching) is selected. After rolling more than ten layers, the plastic sheet is cut into strips with a width of 0.8 cm to the left, and then cut into a small section of about 10 cm after cutting. Tie it into small handfuls. (2) other supplies ① wet cloth: used to cover, transport and store scions for a short time. ② jar: used for temporary storage of scions during grafting to avoid loss of water. two。 Scion material preparation (1) scion collection scion should choose the current year strips with pure variety, strong growth, bright color and disease-free operation. The best time for collection is early morning. When cutting the ear, the cut should be smooth, and do not hurt the ear skin. Pick the scion, and then wrap it with a wet cloth. Care should be taken to avoid scratches and scratches on the scion during binding and transportation. (2) scion preservation ① put the scion bundled into a handle upward and put it in a woven bag, tie the rope in the bag and hang it in the well, first dip the base of the scion in water, and then lift it out of the water, which can be stored for about a week. ② dug a hole in the shade, long and wide enough to fit into the scion, buried in wet soil, shaded with weeds, or stored for a week or so. When there are few ③ scions, you can also use a washbasin to hold half a basin of water, soak the base of the scion in water and store it in a cool place. Change the water once a day or two, and it can be stored for several days. 3. Bud grafting (1) select the full fresh bud in the middle of the scion, cut a knife from 0.5 cm above the bud (roll less than half a circle with the scion in place when cutting) to the xylem, then tilt upward from about 0.8 cm below the bud, and gradually deepen the xylem cutting. cut into the upper transverse cut of the bud and stop the knife (no grip is too heavy during operation to avoid injury and other buds). Gently pinch both sides of the bud with your thumb and index finger, slowly break off the skin of the bud, and do not pinch the bud. The removed buds are shield-shaped, about 1.2 to 1.5 cm long and 0.5 to 0.7 cm wide. Two points can be seen obviously on the inside of the bud, the lower part is the petiole growth point, and the upper part is the bud growth point. Where the bud growth point becomes black, brown, yellow or shedding scratches, can not be used. (2) rootstock: if a large size plant is used as a rootstock, it should be trimmed as a whole according to the forming requirements before grafting, and the trimming incision should be tripped with film to prevent water evaporation. After pruning treatment, the grafting interface should be selected according to the actual needs, and then the specific operation of grafting should be carried out. The specific steps are as follows: the first step is to cut across the smooth and jointless place 10 to 15 cm below the trimming mouth (the blade rolls less than half a circle). The degree is to cut through the skin layer without harming the xylem. Then cut 1.5 cm longitudinally from the horizontal incision (slightly longer than the bud), and the depth is the same as the horizontal knife edge, so that it is T-shaped. Then use the knife along the longitudinal incision left and right twist to pry open the cortex. The second step is to pry open the cortex with the knife, hold the buds in the left hand, gently press down the rootstock and insert the buds with the knife. When inserting buds, do not rub on the rootstock to protect the growth point and make the upper plane of the buds closely coincide with the upper plane of the nail mouth of the sleeper. The third step is to finish the grafting, that is, wrap it with plastic strips. The first requirement is to bind tightly so that the buds are closely combined with the rootstock, leaving no space. Second, the T-shaped mouth should be strictly wrapped and not exposed, which can not only prevent water evaporation and facilitate the survival of the buds, but also prevent pests from laying eggs in the wound, and the larvae will be eaten after hatching, resulting in the death of the buds. Third, be fast, which is the key to the survival of grafting. The exposure time of bud grafting should be reduced as much as possible, the operation technique should be skillful and the grafting speed should be improved. When the binding strip, hold one end of the binding bar with your left hand, wind it two or three times from the upper end of the T-shaped mouth, wrap the lower incision, and then spiral up to make the upper and lower layers worse, and then pull the two ends of the binding strip upward and then cross and tie the knot. The advantage of this method is that it can prevent Rain Water from entering and cause rotten bud, and it can also be combined with anvil shear to cut the binding joint, which does not need to be specially unbound and saves time and labor. Key points of cutting techniques of flowers and trees in spring Gardenia jasminoides can be carried out in spring, summer and autumn, but the cutting survival rate is higher from March to April in spring. When cutting, cut 1-2-year-old branches from the robust mother plant, cut into cuttings of about 20 cm, each section must have more than 3 nodes, cut off the lower end leaves and then put the lower end cut into 500ppm rooting powder solution for 15 seconds, take out a little to dry the solution and then cut. Before inserting, draw a line on the repaired nursery bed according to the row spacing of 10 cm × 7 cm, punch holes in the point with a small stick, insert the 2cm 3 of the cuttings into the hole, water and moisturize the cuttings after compaction with the surrounding soil, and carry out weeding and topdressing management after survival, when the seedlings grow to about 50 cm, they can be planted in the nursery.

The cutting time of camellia should be from early April to May. Select the semi-lignified, brown branches of the year, cut into 10 cm to 15 cm, cuttings with 3 buds, and cut under the base node. Leave 1 or 2 leaves on the cuttings. Immediately after cutting, put the base in clean water to keep the cuttings moist. Then every 50 to 100 cuttings were bundled into a bundle, and the base was soaked in naphthalene acetic acid solution with 100ppm concentration for about 24 hours, then removed and washed with clean water for cutting.

Cuckoos choose one-year-old branches as cuttings in spring, with a length of 4 to 12 centimeters, with a maximum length of no more than 20 centimeters. Leave the upper leaves of the cuttings to cut off the lower half of the leaves. Soak the lower part of the cuttings in sugar water for 8 to 12 hours, wash the cuttings and promote rooting. The cuttings can also be soaked in low concentration of indolebutyric acid 10ppm~20ppm, which can promote the rooting of the varieties which are not easy to take root. For the cutting depth, the shorter cuttings were inserted into 1max 2, and the longer cuttings were inserted with 2cm 3. The cuttings should be fully watered and often sprayed later to keep the substrate moist.

Hibiscus is generally propagated by cutting in spring. When the temperature is stable above 15 ℃, select 1-2-year-old strong and ungerminated branches, cut off the segments with a growth of 15 to 20 cm. When cutting, prepare a small stick, pre-insert a small hole according to the row spacing, and then insert the hibiscus branches into the soil at a depth of 10 to 15 centimeters, and pour enough water immediately after cutting. Be careful not to apply any base fertilizer when cutting.

Crape myrtle carried out hardwood cuttage from February to March. One-year-old strong branches are selected as cuttings, which are 12 to 15 centimeters long and 3 times as long as they are buried in soil. They can take root and survive in May. The height of one-year-old seedlings can reach about 50 centimeters.

The cutting time of sweet-scented osmanthus is mostly in February. In order to promote rooting and control diseases, the mother tree was sprayed with 8 to 1000 times trichlorfon one month before cutting and disinfected with lime water 10 to 15 days before cutting. Soak the base of cuttings in 10ppm naphthalene acetic acid solution for 8 to 10 hours before cutting. Immediately after cutting watering, and maintain a certain degree of humidity, but also in the seedling bed to set up a sunshade net, about 2 months later can take root. It was transplanted once in the second year and out of the nursery in the third year.

From late March to early April, Chinese wolfberry cuttings were cut from branches with a strong diameter of 0.4 to 0.6 centimeters or overgrown branches of fine plants into 12 to 15 centimeters in length. The cuttings can be soaked in naphthalene acetic acid solution before cutting. note that the cuttings should not exceed 3 cm at the base of the cuttings. According to the row spacing of 5 cm × 10 cm, the substrate was inserted into the substrate, and the upper 1 ~ 2 nodes of the cuttings were exposed to the bed, which could be covered with plastic film to increase the ground temperature and promote germination.

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