Cutting Seedling technique of Rose

Rose is a plant of the genus Rosaceae and is the main product of the flower industry in the world. Rose reproduction can be divided into asexual reproduction and sexual reproduction. Sexual reproduction is often used to cultivate new varieties or to produce rootstocks. Asexual propagation has cutting, ramet, striping and tissue culture and other methods, cutting propagation can not only maintain the excellent characteristics of the female parent, but also simple and easy to learn, fast reproduction speed and high survival rate.

1. Cutting time

It can be carried out in both spring and autumn. Spring is from late April to the end of May, when the climate is mild, the branches are strong, they can take root one month after planting, and the survival rate is high. Autumn cutting is carried out from late August to the end of October, when the cutting is greatly affected by the temperature difference between day and night, the rooting is relatively slow, it takes 40 to 50 days to take root, and the survival rate is slightly lower than that of spring cutting.

2. Prepare the seedbed

Location, the cuttage bed should be in the place of deep soil layer, loose structure, good permeability, good drainage and air circulation.

Specification, width 1m, length 3m (it should be noted that the size of the nursery bed does not have much effect on the survival of cuttings, it should be determined according to the needs, when a large number of propagation is needed, a slightly larger one can be selected, otherwise it can be reduced.

3. Matrix selection.

Rose cuttings can also take root when directly inserted into ordinary soil, but the survival rate is not high and is not suitable for mass production. Therefore, generally choose fine sand as the substrate, fine sand had better not been used, in order to prevent cuttings from rooting in the process of decay, you can add formaldehyde in the fine sand, press 5ml/m3, and put the fine sand on the clean beach and turn it about 3 times, so that formaldehyde can be completely volatilized, 3 days later can fill the bed. When sowing and raising Elaeagnus angustifolia seeds to fill fine sand, it should be evenly assisted on the seedling bed, gently suppressed, and watered once, and the sand surface should be gently scraped flat with wood blocks when the water is not dry.

4. Harvest branches

Choose the robust branches of the upper part of the plant which are vigorous in growth and free from diseases and insect pests (powdery mildew and black spot). It is not good to be too old and too tender, and the survival rate is affected, and the branches that have just withered flowers are the best. After cutting the branches, in order to prevent powdery mildew and black coal disease in the cutting process, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 1000 times.

5. Cuttings treatment

When too many branches are harvested, they should be soaked in water or stacked under the shade (should be often sprayed to moisturize).

Pruning the harvested branches, first cut off the residual flowers on the upper part of the branches, select the middle and lower parts of the branches, cut a section about every 10cm, as a cuttage, and retain 3-4 axillary buds on it. Leave no leaves or only 1 or 2 leaves at the top to prevent the loss of water and nutrients in the cuttings, facilitate the rooting of cuttings and control the growth of branches and leaves. The upper end of the cuttings is cut into a flat mouth, and the lower end is cut into an oblique mouth, which is several millimeters away from the axillary buds. The cut should be smooth in order to form healing tissue, which is conducive to rooting and cannot be cut and draped, otherwise it will be difficult to take root and form seedlings. The collected branches should be cut as soon as possible, usually within 1-2 hours.

6. Cutting method

Do as much as possible with pruning, with treatment, with cutting. Cuttings can not hurt the skin, generally use 0.6~0.8cm 's small stick (chopstick size) to cut a small hole in the cutter, and then put the cuttings in the hole. The depth of cuttage is 1 × 3 of the length of cuttings, and the row spacing of plants is 10cm × 15cm. After cutting, the sand is gently compacted by hand. Cuttings should pay attention to maintain the polarity of cuttings, especially those without leaves, can not be cut down (so that the bud eyes upward), otherwise affect the survival rate, with leaves it is best to make the leaves in one direction (bright direction). After all, sprinkle a small amount of fine sand and water once, so that the cuttings are closely combined with the sand body.

Arch shed, covered with white plastic film and sunshade net. The plastic shed can adjust the temperature and humidity of the soil and air, and the sunshade net can prevent direct sunlight and reduce the temperature. In addition to covering the sunshade net on the top of the seedbed, it is also necessary to hang curtains on the east and west side of the seedbed to reduce sunlight in the morning and evening. The best temperature for rooting is 20-25 ℃, which is too high. Besides covering the sunshade net, it can also be watered and ventilated to cool down.

7. Plug-in management

The temperature should not be too high after cutting: too high will make the axillary buds of cuttings sprout quickly and grow into shoots. Inexperienced growers may think that this is a good phenomenon, in fact, it is a sign of cuttage failure, because the cuttings need to take root, if you first take new branches, which consumes the nutrients of the branches, the rooting rate will be affected lightly, and the whole cuttings will die. Therefore, in order to promote rooting, the temperature should be generally controlled at 22: 26 ℃, and the air temperature should be equal to the ground temperature as far as possible. when the temperature is too high, it can be watered on the shed or on the ground, or properly ventilated.

Watering, early cutting, water supply should not be too much, generally 7 to 10 days watering once. One month later, the panicle began to take root and shoot, and the water consumption increased gradually, and it should be watered once every 3-5 days. The amount of watering should be determined according to soil moisture and air humidity, so that the soil is moderately dry and wet. The best moisture condition after cutting: the field capacity of the seedling bed is about 80%, and the air relative humidity is 80% and 90%. If the humidity is too high, the amount of watering can be controlled and ventilation can be strengthened; if the humidity is too low, the amount of watering and spraying times can be increased.

Weeding, pull up the weeds in the bed in time, but do not move the seedlings.

8. Seedling transplanting

Under the condition of ambient temperature of 22 ~ 26 ℃, cuttings can take root after about 1 month. At this time, the plastic film can be opened every morning and evening to ventilate the seedlings and gradually prolong their ventilation and light time, so that the seedlings can basically adapt to the external environmental conditions. After 7 days and 10 days, the seedlings can be transplanted to the greenhouse or flowerpot. The soil used for transplanting should be sandy loam without infiltration, otherwise it is easy to cause rotting roots of seedlings. The seedlings were watered once one day before transplanting. Note that the whole transplanting process should not be exposed to direct sunlight.

9. Seedling stage management

Rose seedlings on the pot should be maintained in the shade shed or other shade for 7 days for 10 days. During this period, they should often spray water and moisturize, receive some H light every morning and evening for the first few days, and then gradually extend the sunlight exposure time. As the roots of the seedlings are not very developed, so do not rush to fertilize, at least after 3 weeks, and then apply thin fertilizer and water every 10 days or so. Although the rose seedlings survive, some growers always dislike that the seedlings grow too slowly, so they promote the seedlings by topdressing according to their own wishes, which is not advisable, because rose seedlings go through a lag period of 1-2 months from picking, cutting, rooting and transplanting to the stage of rapid growth. In this question, rose seedlings have to gradually adapt to the external environment before they can be born quickly. if growers promote seedlings by fertilization as they wish, things often go against their wishes, resulting in the death of young seedlings. When after a long period of lag, rose seedlings naturally enter the rapid growth stage, when some plants grow some buds, in order to avoid the consumption of nutrients, these buds should be cut off in time. After 1-2 management, the rose seedlings can come out of the nursery, and the growers can ship them to the market or transplant them to the field or larger flowerpots as needed.

Cutting Seedling technique of Rose

Rose is a plant of Rosaceae, which has graceful flowers, bright color, rich aroma, long flowering period and wide adaptability. together with chrysanthemum, carnation and gladiolus, it is listed as the four largest fresh cut flowers in the world and is the main product of the flower industry in the world. Rose reproduction can be divided into asexual reproduction and sexual reproduction. Sexual reproduction is often used to cultivate new varieties or to produce rootstocks. Asexual propagation has cutting, ramet, striping and tissue culture and other methods, cutting propagation can not only maintain the excellent characteristics of the female parent, but also simple and easy to learn, fast reproduction speed and high survival rate.

1 cutting time

It can be carried out in both spring and autumn. Spring is from late April to the end of May, when the climate is mild, the branches are strong, they can take root one month after planting, and the survival rate is high. Autumn cutting is carried out from late August to the end of October, when the cutting is greatly affected by the temperature difference between day and night, the rooting is relatively slow, it takes 40 to 50 days to take root, and the survival rate is slightly lower than that of spring cutting.

2 prepare the seedbed

2.1 the cutting bed should be located in the place with deep soil layer, loose structure, good permeability, good drainage and good ventilation.

2.2 the specification is 1m wide and 3m long (it should be noted that the size of the nursery bed does not have much effect on the survival of cuttings, and it should be determined according to the needs. When mass propagation is needed, a slightly larger one can be selected, otherwise it can be reduced.

3 Matrix selection

Rose cuttings can also take root when directly inserted into ordinary soil, but the survival rate is not high and is not suitable for mass production. Therefore, generally choose fine sand as the substrate, fine sand had better not been used, in order to prevent cuttings from rooting in the process of decay, you can add formaldehyde in the fine sand, press 5ml/m3, and put the fine sand on the clean beach and turn it about 3 times, so that formaldehyde can be completely volatilized, 3 days later can fill the bed. When sowing and raising Elaeagnus angustifolia seeds to fill fine sand, it should be evenly assisted on the seedling bed, gently suppressed, and watered once, and the sand surface should be gently scraped flat with wood blocks when the water is not dry.

(4) collecting branches

Choose the robust branches of the upper part of the plant which are vigorous in growth and free from diseases and insect pests (powdery mildew and black spot). It is not good to be too old and too tender, and the survival rate is affected, and the branches that have just withered flowers are the best. After cutting the branches, in order to prevent powdery mildew and black coal disease in the cutting process, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 1000 times.

5 cuttings treatment

When too many branches are harvested, they should be soaked in water or stacked under the shade (should be often sprayed to moisturize).

Pruning the harvested branches, first cut off the residual flowers on the upper part of the branches, select the middle and lower parts of the branches, cut a section about every 10cm, as a cuttage, and retain 3-4 axillary buds on it. Leave no leaves or only 1 or 2 leaves at the top to prevent the loss of water and nutrients in the cuttings, facilitate the rooting of cuttings and control the growth of branches and leaves. The upper end of the cuttings is cut into a flat mouth, and the lower end is cut into an oblique mouth, which is several millimeters away from the axillary buds. The cut should be smooth in order to form healing tissue, which is conducive to rooting and cannot be cut and draped, otherwise it will be difficult to take root and form seedlings. The collected branches should be cut as soon as possible, usually within 1-2 hours.

6 cutting methods

Do as much as possible with pruning, with treatment, with cutting. Cuttings can not hurt the skin, generally use 0.6~0.8cm 's small stick (chopstick size) to cut a small hole in the cutter, and then put the cuttings in the hole. The depth of cuttage is 1 × 3 of the length of cuttings, and the row spacing of plants is 10cm × 15cm. After cutting, the sand is gently compacted by hand. Cuttings should pay attention to maintain the polarity of cuttings, especially those without leaves, can not be cut down (so that the bud eyes upward), otherwise affect the survival rate, with leaves it is best to make the leaves in one direction (bright direction). After all, sprinkle a small amount of fine sand and water once, so that the cuttings are closely combined with the sand body.

Arch shed, covered with white plastic film and sunshade net. The plastic shed can adjust the temperature and humidity of the soil and air, and the sunshade net can prevent direct sunlight and reduce the temperature. In addition to covering the sunshade net on the top of the seedbed, it is also necessary to hang curtains on the east and west side of the seedbed to reduce sunlight in the morning and evening. The best temperature for rooting is 20-25 ℃, which is too high. Besides covering the sunshade net, it can also be watered and ventilated to cool down.

7 plug-in management

7.1 temperature cutting should not be too high: too high will make axillary buds of cuttings sprout quickly and grow into shoots. Inexperienced growers may think that this is a good phenomenon, in fact, it is a sign of cuttage failure, because the cuttings need to take root, if you first take new branches, which consumes the nutrients of the branches, the rooting rate will be affected lightly, and the whole cuttings will die. Therefore, in order to promote rooting, the temperature should be generally controlled at 22: 26 ℃, and the air temperature should be equal to the ground temperature as far as possible. when the temperature is too high, it can be watered on the shed or on the ground, or properly ventilated.

7.2 in the early stage of watering cuttage, the water supply should not be too much, and it should be watered once every 7 to 10 days. One month later, the panicle began to take root and shoot, and the water consumption increased gradually, and it should be watered once every 3-5 days. The amount of watering should be determined according to soil moisture and air humidity, so that the soil is moderately dry and wet. The best moisture condition after cutting: the field capacity of the seedling bed is about 80%, and the air relative humidity is 80% and 90%. If the humidity is too high, the amount of watering can be controlled and ventilation can be strengthened; if the humidity is too low, the amount of watering and spraying times can be increased.

7.3 weeding should be done in time to remove weeds from the bed, but do not move seedlings.

8 seedlings transplanting

Under the condition of ambient temperature of 22 ~ 26 ℃, cuttings can take root after about 1 month. At this time, the plastic film can be opened every morning and evening to ventilate the seedlings and gradually prolong their ventilation and light time, so that the seedlings can basically adapt to the external environmental conditions. After 7 days and 10 days, the seedlings can be transplanted to the greenhouse or flowerpot. The soil used for transplanting should be sandy loam without infiltration, otherwise it is easy to cause rotting roots of seedlings. The seedlings were watered once one day before transplanting. Note that the whole transplanting process should not be exposed to direct sunlight.

9 Management at seedling stage

Rose seedlings on the pot should be maintained in the shade shed or other shady places for 7 days. During this period, they should often spray water and moisturize, receive some H light every morning and evening for the first few days, and then gradually prolong the sunlight exposure time. As the roots of the seedlings are not very developed, so do not rush to apply fertilizer, at least after 3 weeks, and then apply thin fertilizer and water every lOd or so. Although the rose seedlings survive, some growers always dislike that the seedlings grow too slowly, so they promote the seedlings by topdressing according to their own wishes, which is not advisable, because rose seedlings go through a lag period of 1-2 months from picking, cutting, rooting and transplanting to the stage of rapid growth. In this question, rose seedlings have to gradually adapt to the external environment before they can be born quickly. if growers promote seedlings by fertilization as they wish, things often go against their wishes, resulting in the death of young seedlings. When after a long period of lag, rose seedlings naturally enter the rapid growth stage, when some plants grow some buds, in order to avoid the consumption of nutrients, these buds should be cut off in time. After 1-2 management, the rose seedlings can come out of the nursery, and the growers can ship them to the market or transplant them to the field or larger flowerpots as needed.

Cutting Seedling technique of Rose in South China

When is it good to raise seedlings by cutting in the south of China? Rose can be cut in spring and autumn. Spring is carried out from April to May, during which the temperature is gradually rising, generally taking root 30 days after cutting, and the survival rate of cutting is high. Autumn cutting is from August to October, which is a large temperature difference between day and night, and it takes 40-50 days to take root relatively slowly after cutting, and the survival rate is slightly lower than that of spring cutting.

1 prepare the seedbed

1.1 location: choose the place where the soil is deep, the structure is loose, the permeability is good, the drainage is good and the air is ventilated.

1.2 specifications: 1 m wide and 3 m long, depending on the needs.

2 Matrix selection

Rose cuttings directly inserted into ordinary soil can also take root, but the survival rate is not high, so generally choose fine sand (preferably unused) as the substrate, at the same time, in order to prevent cuttings from rooting in the process of decay, you can add formaldehyde in the fine sand, press 5 ml/m 3, and put the fine sand on a clean beach and turn it over 3 times, so that formaldehyde can be completely volatilized and can fill the bed after 3-5 days. When filling fine sand, make it evenly assisted on the seedbed, then gently press and water once, and at the same time gently scrape the sand surface with wood blocks when the water is not dry.

3. Harvest branches

Choose the annual strong branches in the upper part of the plant that are vigorous and disease-free, and the branches that have just withered flowers are the best. After cutting the branches, spray 1000 times of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder to prevent powdery mildew and black coal disease in the cutting process.

4 cuttings treatment

When too many branches are harvested, they should be soaked in water or stacked under the shade. For the harvested branches, first cut off the residual flowers on the upper part of the branches, select the middle and lower parts of the branches, cut a section every 10 em or so, as a cuttage, the upper end of the cuttings is cut into a flat mouth, and the lower end is cut into an oblique mouth, which is a few millimeters from the axillary buds. The cut is required to be smooth, which is conducive to wound healing.

5Cuttage method

Cutting as far as possible with pruning, with the treatment, with the cutting. When cutting, first use a small stick of 0.6-0.8 cm to cut a small hole in the cutter, and then put the cuttings in the human hole. The cutting depth is 1 cm 3 of the cutting length, and the row spacing is 10 cm X 15 cm. After cutting, the cuttings are gently compacted with hands. After all, sprinkle a small amount of fine sand and pour through the water.

6 plug-in management

6.1 temperature: cutting should not be too high, because the temperature is too high, it will cause axillary buds to sprout quickly and grow into twigs, which is a sign of cuttage failure. Therefore, in order to promote rooting, the temperature should be reduced, and it is best to control the temperature in the range of 22-26 degrees. When the temperature is too high, it can be watered on the shed or on the ground, or properly ventilated to lower the temperature.

6.2 watering: in the early stage of cutting, it is OK to water every 7-10 days. After 30 days, the panicle will begin to take root and shoot, which is a large water consumption, so you can increase watering, usually every 3-5 days. The amount of water should be determined according to the soil moisture and air humidity, and keep the soil dry and wet moderately. The best moisture conditions after cutting are as follows: the field water capacity of the seedling bed is kept at about 80%, and the air relative humidity is 80-90%. When the humidity is too high, it can be reduced by controlling the amount of watering and strengthening ventilation; when the humidity is too small, it can be humidified by increasing the amount of watering and spraying times.

6.3 weeding: pull out the weeds in the bed in time, but do not move the seedlings.

7 seedlings transplanting

Under the condition of ambient temperature of 22-26%, cuttings can take root after 1 month. At this time, the plastic film should be opened every morning and evening to ventilate the seedlings to increase their ventilation and light time. About 7-10 days later, the seedlings can be transplanted to the greenhouse or flowerpot. It should be noted that the seedlings should be watered thoroughly the day before the seedlings are transferred.

8 Seedling stage management

Rose seedlings on the basin should be maintained in the shady shed or other shady places for 7 days. During this period, they should often spray water to moisturize, receive some sunlight every morning and evening for the first few days, and then gradually prolong the sunlight exposure time. As the root system of the seedlings is not very developed, so do not rush to apply fertilizer, at least after 3 weeks, and then apply thin fertilizer and water every 10 days or so. Although the rose seedlings survive, some growers always disrelish that the seedlings grow too slowly, so they promote them by topdressing as they want. this practice is not advisable, because rose seedlings go through a lag period of 1 Mel and 2 months from picking, cutting, rooting and transplanting to the stage of rapid growth. In the meantime, rose seedlings have to gradually adapt to the external environment before they can be born quickly. if growers promote seedlings by fertilization as they wish, things often go contrary to their wishes, resulting in the death of young seedlings. When after a long period of lag, rose seedlings naturally enter the rapid growth stage, when some plants grow some buds, in order to avoid the consumption of nutrients, these buds should be cut off in time. After 1-2 management, the rose seedlings can come out of the nursery, and the growers can ship them to the market or transplant them to the field or larger flowerpots as needed.