There is only one secret to the fatness of succulent plants

First of all, how to raise succulent plants is an overgeneralized problem.

There are four relatively important factors in the cultivation of succulent plants: ultraviolet light, temperature difference, moisture and plant material.

I. Ultraviolet

Most succulent plants (such as sedum, fairy cup, raw stone flower, etc.) need sufficient sunshine, which should not be sunshine through glass and screen windows, because glass and screen windows will block a large part of ultraviolet rays.

But it is not blindly accepting unsheltered sunshine, but accepting unsheltered sunshine for as long as possible under the surface temperature of 3 to 30 degrees Celsius during the spring and autumn growth period. Succulent plants will have thicker leaves when they grow where there is enough ultraviolet light, while insufficient ultraviolet rays can lead to longer stems and sparse leaves.

Second, temperature difference

If you want to have colorful succulent plants, you need not only enough ultraviolet radiation, but also the temperature difference. No matter how strong ultraviolet rays are, no matter how strong the meat without temperature difference can't make them take off their gray-green clothes. The color of succulent plants is better when the temperature difference between day and night is more than 15 degrees Celsius. This is why outdoor succulent plants are more beautiful than indoor succulent plants, spring and autumn succulent plants are more watery than winter and summer succulent plants, and Yunnan or Qingdao succulent plants are more beautiful than those cultivated in other parts of our country.

Most succulent plants above 30 degrees in summer need to be moved to cooler places at home. If the temperature is below 3 degrees in winter, it is best not to blow to the cold wind and get to the place with the best indoor light.

Third, moisture

The secret to the fatness of succulent plants is to thirst for a while and then feed them. Watering must be thoroughly watered. The basin soil dries and becomes lighter before watering. Watering thoroughly can make the root system absorb water, a few drops in three or two days not only the root system can not have enough to eat, the basin soil is also easy to produce all kinds of fungi because of wetting for a long time.

Succulent plants do not like the stagnant water environment very much, and keeping the basin soil moist for a long time will also prevent the roots from being exposed to oxygen. So please control your little hands that always want to water.

In spring and autumn, at dusk (the temperature is low but not too low, which is conducive to water evaporation and does not keep the roots in the sauna environment), watering thoroughly; dripping along the edge of the basin about twice every three weeks in summer and winter to keep the minimum amount of water needed for survival.

IV. Plant materials

The basic requirements of succulent plant materials are good air permeability, common are: peat (water retention, nutrient), coconut bran (fluffy, hydrophobic), vermiculite (water retention), red jade soil (water absorption, increase air permeability), cinder (increase air permeability), sediment (increase air permeability), organic manure (a small amount in the upper basin as base fertilizer), rice husk charcoal (adjusting soil acidity and alkalinity), slow-release fertilizer (long-term fertilization) and so on.

My adult formula is half peat (hair or Pingshi red bag), half particles (vermiculite 1 hammer 3, the rest perlite, cinder, river sand, mature pine bark, rice husk charcoal, chicken manure, laterite), and a dozen slow-release fertilizers in the upper basin soil. Individuals like to mix light particles, heavy particles, large particles and small particles together, and do not all use 3-6mm or 1-3mm. It is possible to think too much about this, but my idea is that only in this way can the heavy particles float and sink on the light particles after watering, and the large and small particles fill each other, so that the particles are better evenly mixed in the peat, preventing hardening and helping drainage and ventilation.

Chicken dung must be very fine, and the amount must be very small, just play the role of base fertilizer slightly. It works well. In two years of raising meat, there was only one black rot at the beginning of the first year. In the first winter, due to the opening of the window and ventilation, I forgot to close the window at night.

For the sowing formula, 60% peat and 40% particles (half of which are horticultural vermiculite, and the other half are 1-3mm perlite and 0.8mm-2mm river sand this year), this year's sowing formula increases the proportion of particles and further adjusts the particle size to prevent rigid seedlings. It works well.

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