Common diseases and control measures of potted camellias

Camellias are planted in the homes of many people in the north, but there are still some skills in the cultivation of camellias. Today, the editor will tell you about the methods of planting camellias.

1. Root rot. The main cause of root decay is excessive watering, or poor drainage of basin soil, stagnant water for too long and impermeable, resulting in camellia roots can not breathe. Thus causing the root to rot.

The best way to solve this problem is to remove the plant from the flowerpot, remove the surrounding soil, cut off the rotten roots from the base with scissors, then disinfect the wound with 0.1% potassium permanganate solution, or apply the wound with clean plant ash. Then change the pot or plant again.

2. If the leaves do not fall, the whole branch will die. This phenomenon is mainly caused by watering camellias with tap water for a long time, which makes the basin soil alkali and hardened, so that the water absorption function of plant roots is blocked, and the branches and leaves wither and cause the whole plant to die due to water loss. Or the sun exposure, or in the shoot budding period, light and other conditions suddenly change, camellias are difficult to adapt to this change, there will not be leaves, the whole branch withered phenomenon.

Therefore, the problem of watering camellias is very important and must not be careless. The best water is Rain Water, pond water, tap water must also be dried in the sun for three to five days. Then add a little ferrous sulfate. In the three seasons of spring, summer and autumn, camellias should be moved to semi-shaded places to feed. Indoor viewing in winter, we must pay attention to the humidity of the air, the temperature is too dry, so that the camellia leaves will not cause the whole branch to die.

3. The drainage hole at the bottom of the flowerpot for cultivating camellias should not be blocked. Tile basin is the best choice, this kind of basin has good air permeability. The soil quality is the best with slightly acidic mud, and the field mud is the worst. It must be noted that camellia cultivation soil, should choose high water-holding capacity, absolutely can not use highly permeable soil, such as pine needle soil and so on.

4. Turn the pot once a year, after the blossom blossoms in spring.

5. Spray water on camellia leaves frequently during high temperature and indoor dry season in winter. When spraying water, you can drop edible vinegar in the water, which can not only clean the leaves, but also increase the acidity of the basin soil to avoid chlorosis.

The above are some planting methods of camellias. As long as we plant camellias in the right way, camellias will bloom brightly.

Culture methods of camellias and pest control of camellias

Camellia plant shape is very beautiful, not only so colorful, colorful, loved by the world horticulture community. Then, let's take a look at the planting methods of camellias together with the editor, as well as the relevant introduction to the prevention and control of diseases and insect pests. I hope we can help you all. Let's take a look! The cultivation method of camellias first, planted in the north of the Yangtze River, camellias have been planted in spring, in the south of the Yangtze River, autumn planting is better. To adopt the way of land planting, we should choose the land with good drainage and strong water retention, and the sandy loam rich in humus. If it is potted, it is selected as follows: rotten leaf soil, sandy soil, stable fertilizer soil, or 4 parts of rotten leaf soil, 5 parts of peat soil and 1 part of coarse sand. The pH is between 5 and 6.5. The planting land should choose a place where there is no stagnant water or can not be exposed to the hot sun. Potted camellias are placed in a ventilated and transparent place in winter and in a shady shed or other shady place in summer. The camellias move randomly, which is disadvantageous to the growth of camellias. Second, light and temperature Camellia is a kind of plant with long sunshine. Flower buds can only be formed in an environment that lasts 12 hours a day. The optimum growth temperature is 18: 25 ℃, and the optimum flowering temperature is 10: 20 ℃. If the temperature is higher than 35 ℃, the leaves will be burned. Camellias are not cold-resistant and should be admitted in winter. The temperature should be kept at 3: 5 ℃. It can also endure a low temperature of-10 ℃ for a short time, but not more than 16 ℃ for a long time, otherwise it will promote germination and cause fallen leaves. During the growing period, you should be placed in a semi-overcast environment and should not accept excessive direct sunlight. Especially in summer and autumn, shade should be carried out, or under the trees in a sparse shade. Third, the requirements of watering and fertilization for fertilizer and water, camellia are higher, alkaline soil and neutral soil are disadvantageous to the growth of camellia. In the north, special attention should be paid to the fact that alkaline water should be acidified before watering flowers. The specific method is to store tap water for 2 days to volatilize the chlorine in the water, and then add an appropriate amount of ferrous sulfate (about 0.5% of the water). The amount of water should not be too large, too much water is easy to cause rotten roots. The basin soil can not be dry, and if there is a lack of water, it is easy to make the roots shrink due to the loss of water, so as to keep the basin soil and the surrounding environment moist. Don't spray water during flowering. It is better to apply fertilizer with thin alum fertilizer and water, and avoid applying thick fertilizer. Generally, after sprouting in spring, thin fertilizer and water is applied every 17 days, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer is applied in summer, fertilizer can be stopped for about one month in early autumn, alum fertilizer is applied again before flowering, and available phosphorus and potassium fertilizer is applied when flowering, so that the flower is big and colorful and the florescence is long. Fourth, shaping and pruning to plant camellia mainly cut off dry and withered branches, diseased and weak branches, cross branches and over-dense branches, which obviously affect the tree-shaped branches and remove excess buds. In addition to the above work, potted camellias should also be pruned according to personal preferences, but should not be re-cut, because their growth potential is not strong. Fifth, flowering control camellias are not cold-tolerant, generally use the selection of varieties, temperature control, hormone treatment and other methods to control flowering. If you want to make camellias bloom on National Day holiday, you can use a brush to dip 0.1% of gibberellin in mid-July or early August and apply them to the buds every 3 days. If it is estimated that the "National Day" flowering is not safe, it can increase the number of buds, increase fertilizer and water, promote the rapid growth of flower buds, and make the "National Day" see flowers.

6. Winter management of potted camellias (1) when the temperature drops below 0 degrees Celsius, move the potted camellias to a sunny place outside, or put them in a plastic shed sealed on three sides and sunny on one side. It can also be put indoors, but the place is required to be well lit and well ventilated. In case of severe cold and frost weather, you should pay attention to keeping warm, and it is best to move the outdoor camellias indoors before the sudden cooling. If it is placed outdoors, it should be covered with plastic film, newspaper or cloth at night. (2) Water and fertilizer management. Camellias like a warm and humid environment and are afraid of stagnant water. Spray the leaf surface with water whose water temperature is similar to room temperature every 3-5 days in winter to increase humidity and clean leaf dust. During the flowering period, it is appropriate for the basin soil to be dry and wet, and the suitable time for watering is noon on a sunny day. Winter is the bud expansion period of camellia, 0.1% to 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution should be sprayed once a month combined with foliar water spraying, or thin liquid fertilizer dominated by phosphorus and potassium should be applied to the root (fertilizer-water ratio is 1:4) once a month. (3) when other indoor overwintering potted flowers bloom (early flowering varieties begin to bloom at the end of November, general varieties bloom from February to April), do not put them in places where the light is too strong or the temperature is too high, otherwise the flowers will die early. Plucking too many buds can make the flowers large and colorful, and prolong the flowering period. Do not spray water on the flowers when watering, otherwise it will cause the flowers to rot and shorten the flowering period. After the flowers fade, pick the residual flowers in time. The main diseases of camellias include ring streak, shoot blight, anthracnose, leaf spot, bituminous coal and so on. The main control agents are carbendazim 500 times, chlorothalonil 800 times, carbendazim 800 times, and carbendazim 800 times regularly. Attention should be paid to the prevention and control of gray mold and flower blight before flowering. The main pests of camellias are red spiders, aphids, scale insects, leaf rollers and bridge worms. The main control agents are cypermethrin 15ml + isocarbophos 20mL or monocrotophos 25mL mixed with 30 jin water spray. Summary: the above is the introduction of the culture methods of camellias, as well as the prevention and control of diseases and insect pests. Different flowers have different meanings and different points in breeding, which can enable us to better maintain flowers. The editor's information is not comprehensive enough, so please forgive me.

Common diseases and insect pests of camellia

First, Camellia gray leaf spot: Camellia gray spot, harmful to plum blossoms, tea trees, etc., is a common disease on camellias, which occurs repeatedly in nurseries and potted plants. Symptoms: damage to leaves and shoots. Most of the pathogens invaded by leaf tip or leaf margin, initially yellowish green dots, gradually expanded into near round, semicircular irregular spots, dark brown, the edges were obviously raised, and the disease spots could heal each other. The diameter of lesion is generally 10-20mm. In the later stage, thick black dots were produced on the disease spot, scattered or showed inconspicuous wheel pattern arrangement, and in severe cases, the diseased leaves withered, ruptured and fell off. Prevention and control methods: 1. Remove diseased leaves to reduce the source of infection. 2. Properly increase the application of organic fertilizer, phosphorus, potassium fertilizer and ferrous sulfate to promote plant growth and enhance disease resistance; in March and June, when the disease was more serious, it was sprayed 1000 times as much as 100 Bordeaux or 50% bacilli wettable powder, once every 10 seconds and 15 days, for a total of 45 times. Second, anthracnose symptoms of camellias: it is a common disease harmful to camellias, mostly on the leaves generated in the same year, and occasionally on the new shoots. On the leaves, the disease spots mostly start from the tip or edge of the leaves, initially appear as dark green round spots in the shape of water stains, and then expand into irregular large spots, yellowish brown to brown. Finally, there are many black dots scattered in the middle of the disease spot, and the edge of the disease spot is slightly raised. Prevention and control methods: at the initial stage of occurrence, spray prevention and control with 70% methyl thiophanate wettable powder 1000ml 1500 times, or 50% benzoate wettable powder 1000 times, or 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 600x solution, or 65% Dysen zinc wettable powder 600x solution.