Five ways to eliminate winter potted flower pests!

Although the beginning of winter had already arrived, it was still difficult to freeze the pests to death even if the weather was as cold as an ice cellar. In order to make potted plants grow healthily, it is necessary to take necessary and effective measures to kill pests!

Most convenient: Sprinkle ash

Life is often someone will ash shake off in the flowerpot, although the behavior is not very civilized, but over time, careful flower friends will find that there is ash flowerpot but no pests. This is because the harmful substances in soot can kill pests. Soot sprinkled on the surface of the pot can penetrate into the soil through moisture, leaving pests nowhere to hide.

Specific practices:

Soak soot and tobacco shreds in clear water for about 3 days, and then pour the prepared soot water directly into the basin soil.

Most nutrition: add egg shell

Egg shells contain a lot of calcium carbonate, and after burning, egg shells will turn into hydrated lime. Ants wait for insects to eat, then basically die.

Specific practices:

1. Wash and dry the egg shell first, and then roast it slightly with fire. After the egg shell is slightly charred, it can be crushed for use.

2. Sprinkle egg powder on the surface of the pot.

Best insulation: plant ash

Plant ash is not only rich in potassium, but also can play a role in sterilization. In addition, plant ash is also a good insulation medium, for the potted plants about to winter, just to meet the needs of warm roots.

Specific practices:

Sprinkle plant ash on the basin soil first, then spray a little water on it.

Most breathable: sawdust

The warming effect of sawdust is very significant. If the temperature is below 0℃, a layer of sawdust can be laid at the bottom of the flowerpot to prevent freezing and keep warm, but also to enhance water permeability.

Specific practices:

1. Put the sawdust in the sun for 2 days to remove the gum components in the sawdust.

2. First spread a layer of sawdust with a thickness of about on the bottom of the flowerpot, and then spread the pot soil on it. Remember not to let the roots of the plant come into direct contact with sawdust to avoid burning the roots.

Best taste: cinnamon powder

It is understood that ants, fruit flies and other small insects especially do not like to smell cinnamon powder taste. If black fly is produced in the flowerpot, cinnamon powder can be sprinkled on the top of the pot soil to sterilize and disinfect, but also improve the rooting survival rate.

Specific practices:

Sprinkle a small amount of cinnamon powder evenly around the pot.

How to eradicate winter garden pests?

  After entering the frost, it gradually moved towards winter. During this time, the weather became colder and colder, and the temperature difference between day and night was large. Even pest pathogens are preparing for winter, so it is time to act now to understand the growth habits of various wintering pests and eliminate wintering pests and destroy their wintering sites to reduce the occurrence of pests in the next year.

  Common pests in late autumn include bamboo stem flat aphid, Japanese pot scale, chrysanthemum common pests include yellow chest thrips, chrysanthemum small tube longicorn, chrysanthemum long tube aphid, red spider, chrysanthemum gray mold, chrysanthemum brown spot disease Here's how to control these winter pests!

  Common pests in late autumn

  A. bamboos: Hemiptera, Aphis

  Also known as bamboo pseudo-horn aphid, mainly harm Cixiao bamboo, Phoenix tail bamboo and other clustered bamboo. Parthenogenetic aphids and nymph aphids suck sap from bamboo shoots and stems. Young bamboos shrivel and turn brown after being damaged, causing serious coal pollution, resulting in black coal pollution on the whole shoot and stem. Serious damage causes bamboo death. The insect overwinters on bamboo stems as wingless parthenogenetic aphids and nymph aphids. September and October, with the temperature decreasing, the activity is frequent and reaches the second peak. After November, the number of insect population decreased and most of them entered the overwintering state, but they could continue to cause damage in warm winter.

  [Prevention Method]:

  1. Cultivation and management: artificially cut off branches with insects, keep ventilation and light transmission. In winter, clear the garden and weed in time.

  2. Chemical control: spraying 10% imidacloprid and 1.2% nicotinic acid 1000 times solution can be used for control.

  A. japonica: Hemiptera: Charididae

  Japanese scale also known as barnacle scale, mainly harm Magnolia, camphor, papaya, Michelia, Magnolia, Holly, Camellia and Gardenia, etc. The insect stings and damages young shoots and leaves of trees. Serious, leaves dry, induced coal pollution disease, so that the crown black, seriously affecting landscape greening. The insect has one generation a year and overwinters as fertilized female adults on branches or eggs in female adult scale shells in the middle and late November.

  [Control methods]

  1. Cultivation management: reduce planting density appropriately, pay attention to ventilation and light transmission in greenhouses and greenhouses. When scale insects are found on individual branches or leaves, they should be removed or removed with soft brushes in time. Can also be combined with pruning, artificial pruning insect branches, weak branches and over-dense branches, to maintain the ventilation of the plant light transmission.

  2. Chemical control: currently available 40% acephate EC irrigation roots. The concentration is calculated according to the DBH of the plant, and the root irrigation is diluted with water according to the dosage of 10 ml per 10 cm.

  II. Chrysanthemum diseases and insect pests

  Thrips flavescens: Thysanoptera

  Thrips flavescens mainly harm rose, rose, chrysanthemum and other flower plants. It occurs more than 10 generations a year in southern provinces and all the year round in greenhouse conditions in northern China. Adult and nymph are hidden in the flower damage, with mouthparts to absorb flower organ juice, eggs half-buried in petals or stamens under the epidermis. High temperature and drought are beneficial to the occurrence of this insect. Autumn is the blooming season of chrysanthemum, so the control of this pest should be strengthened.

  [Control methods]

  1. Cultivation and management: autumn ploughing shall be carried out on the pest land to kill overwintering adults and nymph; dry branches and weeds in the pest land shall be removed and burned on site.

  2. Chemical control: when serious, spray 10% imidacloprid wettable powder 1000 times, spray once every 7~10 days, 2~3 times in succession. Potted flowers can also be buried along the edge of the pot 5% carbosulfan granules 1~2g(diameter 170mm potted flowers).

  Coleoptera: Cerambycidae

  Chrysanthemum small tube longicorn is an important boring pest on chrysanthemum, alias Chrysanthemum marrow longicorn, Chrysanthemum longicorn, Chrysanthemum tiger. When laying eggs, female insects bite out two semi-circular grooves horizontally in chrysanthemum stem sheath, eggs are laid under or in the grooves, and the bitten stem sheath often loses water and wilts or breaks. After hatching, larvae drill into stems and eat from top to bottom, destroying conductive tissues and affecting plant growth. In severe cases, the aboveground parts wither. The insect has one generation a year, and the mature larvae enter into overwintering state in the rhizome of chrysanthemum after November.

  [Control methods]

  1. Artificial control: remove the old roots of overwintering larvae, destroy the branches of insects according to the wilted or broken parts of larvae hatching.

  2. Cultivation and management: cuttage propagation is adopted, and tiller propagation is used less to control its spread.

  3. Chemical control: 5% carbosulfan granules can be buried.

  Psilosiphum henryi: Hemiptera Aphididae

  Also known as Chrysanthemum aphid, this insect mainly damages ornamental plants of Compositae such as chrysanthemum. During the first outbreak, young stems and leaves were mainly stung by adult and nymph aphids. After autumn, when it blooms for the second time, it damages pedicels and buds, damages stamens after flowering, and enters tubular petals, seriously affecting the quality and ornamental value of flowers. From the middle of November, wingless parthenogenetic female aphids overwintered intensively on the remaining chrysanthemum or chrysanthemum stubble.

  [Control methods]

  Chemical control: spray 5% imidacloprid emulsifiable concentrate, 0.6% matrine lactone aqueous solution 1000~1500 times.

  Arachnida: Acarina

  The insect is red or red yellow small mites, naked eye can only see red dots. Often, nymph clusters on the back of leaves and buds of some flowers sting sap damage, causing leaves to dry yellow and die, flowers and fruits to wither. More than 20 generations a year are completed in the warm south, with overlapping generations. Female mites live on litter and weeds, but do not overwinter in greenhouse.

  [Control methods]

  Chemical control: abamectin pesticide 1.8% Aifuding EC 1000 times or 73% promite EC 2000~3000 times spray control.

  gray mold of chrysanthemum

  The pathogen mainly damaged the leaves, neck and flower organs of chrysanthemum. Infected petals produce small brown spots in the early stage, which spread rapidly and rot when humidity is high, and produce a large number of gray mold in the rotten parts. It is easy to break out at high temperature and about 20℃. Corolla long time in wet conditions are also prone to disease.

  [Control methods]

  1. Agricultural prevention and control: timely removal of plant disease in the body, pay attention to drainage, planting should not be too dense. Potted chrysanthemum should control the amount of watering.

  2. Chemical control: spray 50% carbendazim WP 1000 times solution at the early stage of disease, continuously spray 2~3 times.

  brown spot of chrysanthemum

  Brown spot disease of chrysanthemum, also known as black spot disease and spot blight disease, is an important disease of Compositae plants, mainly damaging leaves. When the disease occurred seriously, the disease spots healed each other, the whole leaf color turned yellow, dried and fell off; there were black spots on the disease spots in the later stage, which were conidia of pathogenic bacteria. Some diseased leaves rolled into a tube and drooping, uneven leaves, easy to fall.

  [Control methods]

  1. Cultivation and management: pruning in time, so that the plant ventilation and light transmission, timely removal and burning of sick leaves, sick plants. When watering, avoid sprinkling water on the head and do not make the pot soil and the field too wet, do not make the soil splash on the leaves. Clean the soil on the leaves after rain and drain in time.

  2. Chemical control: spray 50% carbendazim 500 times solution, or 75% chlorothalonil WP 500~800 times solution, or 50% thiophanate-methyl WP 800~1000 times solution. Spray once every 7~10 days, continuously spray 3~4 times.

  III. Other key concerns

  Flat thorn moth, brown edge green thorn moth, yellow thorn moth, beautiful green thorn moth and other thorn moths

  In addition, the flat thorn moth, brown edge green thorn moth, yellow thorn moth, beautiful green thorn moth and other thorn moths that harm flowering shrubs have already cooped in the branches, trunks, bark crevices and soil layers of plants for overwintering. Maintenance personnel can adopt manual removal, digging and smashing of cocoon to eliminate overwintering insect sources.

  Do a good job of garden pest control measures, so that garden pests winter can not hide.

How does Indian peony grow at home? Home Cultivation Management Skills of Dahlia

Dahlia, also known as dahlia, its ornamental value is very high, planting method is simple, can be planted in the courtyard, garden, road side, can also be potted, is the best choice for novice flower growers, the following will follow the small series to see dahlia family cultivation management skills bar.

The following is an introduction to the cultivation of dahlia (dahlia) related issues:

Habits: Originally born in Mexico at an altitude of 1500M on the plateau, therefore, like sufficient sunshine, good ventilation dry cool environment, not cold, fear of heat, and need to have a period of low temperature dormancy every year. The soil is rich in humus and well drained sandy loam, which is suitable for spring planting bulbs and short-day plants. It sprouts and grows in spring, and flower bud differentiation and flowering are carried out in late summer and early autumn when the temperature is gradually cooler and the sunshine is gradually shorter. Until the end of autumn, after frost, the aboveground part wilts and stops growing, and enters dormancy in winter. Short day condition promoted flower bud development, long day condition promoted branching, increased flowering number, but delayed flower formation.

Propagation and cultivation: generally based on cuttage and sub-propagation, but also grafting and seeding propagation.

Cuttage propagation: all seasons can be carried out, but the best early spring cuttings, 2~3 months, the root cluster in the greenhouse to store seedlings germination, such as new buds to 6~7cm high and a pair of leaves at the base of the spread, stripping cuttings. Can also leave a pair of leaves above the base of the bud cut, with the growth of a pair of axillary buds left in the axils after the extension of 6~7cm, but also cut cuttings, so that you can continue to cut until May. Cutting soil with sandy loam plus a small amount of rotten leaf soil or peat soil is appropriate, room temperature during the day to maintain 20~22 degrees Celsius, 15~18 degrees Celsius at night, 2 weeks after rooting, it can be sub-planted. Spring seedlings not only high survival rate, but also by summer and autumn full growth, the same year can flower. From June to early August, buds can be taken from the growing plants and transplanted in summer, but the survival rate is lower than that in spring. Cuttings could be cultured in greenhouse from September to October and winter, but the survival rate was lower than that of spring and slightly higher than that of summer.

Plant propagation: In March to April of spring, take out the stored root tuber, cut off each root tuber and the bud attached to the root neck together (the cut is coated with plant ash for preservation), and plant it separately. Root tubers without root neck or root neck without germination point do not sprout and cannot be planted. If the germination point of root neck is not obvious or difficult to identify, it can be germinated in early spring, taken out after germination, and then cut according to the above method. This method is simple and easy, high survival rate, strong plants, but propagation coefficient is not as much as cuttage method.

Sowing propagation: breeding new varieties and dwarf system of flower bed varieties multi-use sowing propagation. Dahlia seeds are often picked from mature ones after autumn due to summer humidity, and the outer 2~3 whorls of cylindrical flowers are the most plump, and the more central the cylindrical flowers are, the more difficult it is to bear fruit. Very few ligulate flowers can bear fruit, so they should be used as female parents. Stamens are usually progamous. After pollen is released, pistil elongates rapidly, so stamens of female tube flower should be removed before maturity, and pollination should be carried out when pistil matures. Because ligulate flowers often remain on the receptacle after wilting, they should be completely pulled out before pollination because they rot after rain and affect the fruiting of the flowers. For male parents, flowers can be cut and placed in indoor water culture, and when the pollen matures, they can be taken out and stored for later use. Pollinating should be done at 9 - 10 a.m. After 30 days or so, the seeds mature, if in the case of severe frost before maturity, they lose germination power, so should be cut before frost, placed in the sun ventilation, hanging up ripening. The seeds germinate in 7~10 days and bloom in autumn of the same year. Their growth potential is stronger than that of cuttings and ramets.

Potted: appropriate selection of cuttage seedlings, especially in the low floret varieties as well, but also available in a few high-growth varieties, to flower neat as appropriate. Potted dahlia watering should be strictly controlled to prevent excessive growth and rotten roots, master the principle of not watering, dry between wet. Pots who cut off the ground after the stem leaves, can be placed in the original disk storage.

Disease and pest control: the main diseases are root rot, caused by excessive soil moisture, poor drainage or excessive air humidity. Control methods are to avoid continuous cropping, soil disinfection before planting, reasonable watering and drainage, keep good ventilation; brown spot disease, late summer to early autumn season, due to heavy rain and air humidity, easy to occur this disease, infected plants at the same time suffer red spider damage, so that leaves produce brown spots, serious cases can lead to plant death, control methods are to remove and burn the diseased leaves in time, in addition, spray Baume 0.5 degrees lime sulfur mixture on the leaves, or apply lime in the soil; Mosaic disease, spread by aphids or other pests and caused by virus disease, early onset, leaves grow into patterned patterns, veins and their vicinity become pale white green, affecting root tuber, so that poor development, affecting flowering, so we should pay attention to eliminate aphids in time, eliminate residual branch disease leaves to achieve the purpose of prevention and control; powdery mildew, when the disease occurs, the back of the leaves appear pale green spots, and then white powdery spots, so that the whole plant leaves wither, plant death. Need to remove the disease leaves in time, spray the stone sulfur mixture or 800 times the solution of the bacteria to prevent and control. The main pests are red spiders, dry period feasible foliar spray, to prevent red spider reproduction; aphids, with 40% dimethoate 1000~1500 times spray and maintain ventilation, can control aphids against; chafers, harm buds, tender leaves and flowers, with chemicals to prevent division effect is not good, it is best to kill in the morning.

Purification function: can effectively absorb hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide, antibacterial, in addition to the role of formaldehyde.

Use: dahurian peony is one of the common flowers at home and abroad, colorful, rich varieties, wide range of applications, suitable for flower beds, flower border and pre-garden cluster planting; dwarf varieties are best for potted viewing. Flower shape beautiful, colorful, gorgeous noble, on the porch or steps, can create a gorgeous atmosphere; in the study or dining room windowsill dotted with one or two small varieties, can bring good mood and good appetite. High-type varieties are suitable for cut flowers, and are ideal materials for flower blue, wreath and bouquet production. The root tuber contains inulin, which has the effect of glucose in medicine. In addition, the root tuber also has the function of clearing heat and detoxifying and detumescence.

Peony is one of China's national flowers, its ornamental value is very high, and the planting management process is easy, the above is a small series of finishing dahlia (dahlia) cultivation related problems, you hurry to collect yo.