MySheen

Efficient cultivation techniques and Daily maintenance Management of Phalaenopsis in North China

Published: 2024-11-06 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/06, Phalaenopsis is a kind of flower that many friends like. Today, the editor of Huinong Network has sorted out an article about the planting and management of Phalaenopsis in the north. Florists in the north, come and study quickly.

Phalaenopsis is a kind of flower that many friends like. Today, the editor of Huinong Network has sorted out an article about the planting and management of Phalaenopsis in the north. Florists in the north, come and study quickly.

1 cultivation techniques of Phalaenopsis in North China

1.1 cultivation containers

There are differences in cultivation methods and cultivation containers. In general, large-scale cultivation of Phalaenopsis, cultivation containers can use tile pots or plastic pots. If it is in a flower shop or flower supermarket, the cultivation container can choose a decorative pot; if commercial flowers need to be properly maintained before they are on the market, you can choose 5~13cm 's transparent plastic nutrition bowl as the cultivation container.

1.2 cultivation substrate

In the process of cultivating Phalaenopsis, the substrate had better be the substrate with good aeration and drainage. In general, the frequently used substrates are peat, aquatic plants, sawdust, coconut shells, moss and so on, while the frequently used substrates in Dalian are aquatic plants. Planting Phalaenopsis in peat is also easier than water moss in overall management. For example, when planting Phalaenopsis with water moss, if the plug of water moss is too tight when changing the basin, it will affect the root growth, and if the plug is too loose, it will easily lead to acidification of water moss and rotten roots of Phalaenopsis, and the good permeability of peat can well avoid these problems, and the technical difficulty of potting will be reduced.

2 maintenance technology of Phalaenopsis in northern area

2.1 Seedling maintenance

In the process of maintaining the seedlings, we first need to carry out the pot operation of the seedlings, that is, after the seedlings are out of the bottle, they need to be transplanted to the basin of 5cm after 2 to 3 months, and then use the super aquatic plants that have been soaked 1 day before (the water content is about 30%), and wrap them in the root system of the seedlings to avoid exposing the roots. And the leaves can not be wrapped in aquatic plants, pay attention to loose and tight when wrapped, so as to avoid damage to leaves and roots. After completing the pot operation, it is necessary to pour half-thoroughly with 1500 times of methyl topiramate, or spray it with fungicides on the 2nd day.

2.2 maintenance of medium seedlings

There is also a certain standard when changing the basin of the middle seedling, if the leaf length reaches 12cm and the width is more than 3cm after 3-4 months, it can be transplanted into the 8cm basin, and if its root system is strong, it can also be transplanted. In the process of changing the basin, the seedlings that have reached the standard are mainly taken out of the 4cm basin and treated properly to remove the rotten or old roots. After the completion of the basin change operation, it needs to be maintained, sterilized 1 day after the basin change, and sterilized every 10 days thereafter. In general, fungicides can be used alternately with zinc Meng B Pu 800x solution + Yili 1000 fold solution or 99% tetracycline 3000 fold solution.

2.3 maintenance of large seedlings

When changing the pot of large seedlings, it can only be carried out after the middle seedlings have grown for 2-3 months. If the leaf tip distance is in 20cm and the root growth is very strong, you can change it to the basin of 11~13cm. When changing the basin, you first need to put a layer of Styrofoam particles in the transparent plastic bowl, and then put in the water plant, remove the rotten leaves and roots from the 8cm bowl, and wrap a layer of water grass. After the completion of the basin change, it needs to be properly maintained, and some seedlings of different sizes should be placed separately to facilitate maintenance, and sterilization should be carried out 1 day after the basin change, which is the same as the above operation.

2.4 Arrow maintenance

Usually, the flowering time is about 50 days. If the seedling starts to pull out the pedicel, stop the flowering operation at low temperature, and distinguish the plants that have already extracted the pedicel from those that have not. After the arrow, adjust the direction of the flower arrow in time, so that its leaves are in the east-west direction, and the direction of the pedicel is to the south of the growing point. During the period of arrows, proper maintenance is also needed, fertilizer and water are irrigated alternately, usually twice fertilizer and one water, fertilization can alternately use high phosphate fertilizer and average fertilizer, the dosage is 5000 times liquid.

2.5 flowering maintenance

The flower bud will germinate after the pedicel is pulled out for 30 days. At this time, the flowerpot can not be moved on a large scale, and the clamp needs to be mended in time. There are at most 3 clips for each flower arrow, and the highest clip is about 15cm under the first flower bud. During this period of time, it needs strong light, and 20000~35000Lux is the best light intensity, so it is necessary to choose the right light location. The temperature also needs to be properly controlled. During flowering, the best temperature during the day should be 22: 28 ℃, keeping in mind that it should not be lower than 20 ℃ or higher than 30 ℃; at night, the temperature should be controlled at 20: 25 ℃, the minimum should not be less than 18 ℃, and the maximum should not exceed 25 ℃. In the process of controlling humidity, the humidity should be kept at 60%-70% during flowering, the lowest should not be less than 50%, and the highest should not be more than 80%. Too high humidity can easily lead to plant diseases, which will eventually affect its commerciality; too low will greatly shorten its life span, and eventually there may be symptoms such as early withering of flowers. After flowering, the operation of fertilization can be reduced appropriately, and it is only necessary to apply fertilizer twice during the period from bud to flowering. In addition, it is necessary to supplement trace elements to promote the robust growth of the plant.

That's all about the planting and management technology of Phalaenopsis in the north. Farmers in the north and those who have this kind of flowers must learn the knowledge of this article.

A complete Collection of cultivation techniques of Phalaenopsis

Cultivation conditions

(1) temperature

Phalaenopsis is a tropical plant, and the cultivation temperature should be maintained between 15 and 34 ℃. The appropriate temperature is as follows: the growth stage is 26: 27 ℃, the flowering stage is 19: 21 ℃. In order to get more pedicels, the temperature can be maintained at 18: 20 ℃ for a total of 4 weeks. When the light is insufficient or the daily temperature is too high, it should be maintained at 18 ℃ to strengthen flower induction (induction of flower buds). Because the flowering period should also maintain the growth of leaves, the period of low temperature should not be too long. In the case of insufficient light, if the temperature is more than 23 ℃ for more than 24 hours, it will lead to too much vegetative growth and the loss of buds.

(2) Light quantity

1. In the Netherlands

In order to obtain proper leaf and root development, sufficient light is needed. Too much light leads to burn marks on the leaves. Too low amount of light (lower than 100W/ rays) led to stagnation of plant growth, poor quality, improper development of flower buds and poor root development. The appropriate amount of light is 2002. In summer when the sun is strong (1400 W / kg), 80% of the shade net should be used.

two。 In the tropics

Need to have the ability to maintain 80-90% shading. A fixed net of 65% shading and another group of 65% shading movable net are usually used. In areas with heavy rain, plastic roofs should be used to reduce disease and reduce Rain Water's leaching of the medium. (Note: this paragraph is aimed at the simple facilities of awning in Indonesia and other places, not about subtropical greenhouses.)

The appropriate amount of light is as follows:

Growth stage: 5000~8000lux

Flowering stage: 8000~15000lux

In areas where year-round sunshine is common, light demand can be increased by 20%. However, we should pay attention to the refractive ability of light, so that the leaves of orchid plants get uniform light. High relative humidity should be maintained when the amount of light is high.

(3) artificial supplementary light

Artificial light supplementation is beneficial to leaf temperature, microclimate and orchid seedling growth, and can reduce plant loss. Its characteristics are as follows:

Seedling growth: promoting rapid growth and reducing orchid plant loss

Growth stage: promote rapid growth and better development

Flowering stage: it is helpful to the development of pedicel and flower bud, reduce the loss of flower bud and improve the quality.

In winter, Phalaenopsis needs at least 1214 hours and 3500 to 4000 lux of light, so it is suitable to use artificial light sources. Excessive use of light sources in sunny weather will cause the leaves to turn red, resulting in stagnant growth. In addition, the orchid plant maintained a dark period of at least 8 hours to determine its ability to absorb carbon dioxide.

(4) carbon dioxide concentration

Phalaenopsis is a plant that metabolizes sedum acid and absorbs carbon dioxide at night. The appropriate concentration is 600~800ppm.

(5) relative humidity

Phalaenopsis can protect itself from stress in low humidity because of its physiological structure, but in too humid environment, high temperature and high humidity are often accompanied by diseases. The most suitable range of relative humidity is 60%~80%RH. The relative humidity needs to be increased in the environment of high temperature and low humidity. The applicable equipment system includes adding fog particles with high-pressure spraying equipment above the greenhouse, sprinkling water under the planting bed, using water walls and fans, etc. But avoid causing crops to get wet. Another additional benefit of humidification is to lower the temperature.

(6) other materials

When crops grow in a high relative humidity environment, daytime temperature and sunshine can be increased to maintain a constant temperature inside the greenhouse and maintain a good air circulation. Therefore, the height of the greenhouse had better be 3-4 meters higher than that of plants.

In order to analyze the problems faced by plant growth, the measurement and recording of microclimate is very important. For example, light quantity, temperature and relative humidity should be measured and recorded. The measurement work can be done by using a microcomputer or a hand-held sensor, and the daily maximum / minimum values need to be measured.

Cultivation mode

(1) the cultivation medium of Cymbidium must have the following requirements:

Can make the orchid root system bear the weight of the orchid itself, maintain the normal plant shape, but not too heavy, light is better.

Good drainage performance and water retention performance. Langen needs water, but it can be removed quickly, because the stagnant water will rot the roots, and on the other hand, it will not dry quickly.

The ventilation performance is good.

There are quite a lot of mineral nutrients.

It can keep it from rotting for 1-2 years.

The price is not expensive, suitable, easy to obtain, easy to operate.

(2) the suitable media for cultivating Cymbidium are as follows:

Snake sawdust, which is made from the air roots of tree ferns; peat moss; water moss

Purple root, one is black iron wire-like hard root, the other is brown soft root; it is not perishable, contains a small amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace elements, drainage ventilation and water retention, durable. PH value 5

Bark, Douglas pine and white fir bark fragments, soft aeration and water retention, pH 4: 6

Coconut bran and coconut shell fiber

Others: Brown fiber, dried leaves, trunk branches, dried cow dung, pumice, clay blocks, broken bricks, tiles, vermiculite, plastic balls, etc. Phalaenopsis potted flowers sold in the market generally use water moss. [7]

Pre-anthesis and post-anthesis management

After the bud of butterfly orchid is formed, more phosphorus should be applied until it blossoms. When the flower stem is pulled up and tends to tilt to one side, the pedicel should be tied up so as not to break the pedicel. After that, the pedicel is growing and taller, and the binding should be carried out gradually, and the pillar is slightly curved to enhance the sense of beauty. Stop applying fertilizer during flowering and before new leaves grow. For the robust orchid plant with more than 5 leaves, the lower part of the stem can be shrunk by 3-4 nodes, and it is expected to blossom again on the remaining flower stem in the future.

Key points of maintenance

Cultivation media: the common cultivation media of Phalaenopsis are mainly aquatic plants and moss.

1. Temperature: the first thing for families to raise Phalaenopsis is to ensure the temperature. Phalaenopsis likes the environment of high temperature and humidity, the lowest temperature during the growth period should be above 15 ℃, and the suitable temperature for Phalaenopsis growth is 16-30 ℃. Attention should be paid to warming at the turn of autumn, winter and spring, as well as when the winter temperature is low. In general, rooms with heating equipment in winter are not difficult to reach, but be careful not to put flowers directly on the radiator or too close to them. When the summer temperature is too high, it is necessary to cool down and pay attention to ventilation. If the temperature is higher than 32 ℃, Phalaenopsis will usually enter a semi-dormant state to avoid continuous high temperature. The flowering period is around the Spring Festival, and proper cooling can prolong the viewing time. The night temperature during flowering should be controlled between 13 and 16 ℃, but not less than 13 ℃.

two。 Watering: Phalaenopsis is native to the primeval forest with more fog and higher temperature. Phalaenopsis does not have thick pseudobulbs to store nutrients, and if there is not enough humidity in the air, the leaves are wrinkled and weak. Therefore, Phalaenopsis should be cultivated and maintained in an environment with high ventilation and humidity. The suitable air humidity for Phalaenopsis growth is 60%-80%. The new root of Phalaenopsis should be watered more in the prosperous period and less in the dormant period after anthesis. The plants grow vigorously in spring and autumn around 05:00 in the afternoon, and the plants are watered at 09:00 and 05:00 every day. The light is weak and the temperature is low in winter. Watering every other week is enough and should be carried out before 10:00 in the morning. In the event of a cold wave, it is not suitable to water, keep dry, wait until after the cold wave to resume watering. The principle of watering is to see dry and wet, and when the surface of the cultivation substrate becomes dry, water should be watered again, and the water temperature should be close to room temperature. When the indoor air is dry, sprayers can be used to spray directly to the leaves, and you can see that the leaves are wet, but be careful not to spray water spray on the flowers during flowering. Tap water should be stored for more than 72 hours before watering.

3. Lighting: although Phalaenopsis prefers shade, it is still necessary to make the orchid plant accept part of the light, especially before and after flowering, the appropriate light can promote Phalaenopsis blossom, make the flowers gorgeous and lasting, generally should be placed indoors where there is scattered light, do not let direct sunlight.

4. Ventilation: the normal growth of Phalaenopsis needs flowing fresh air, so domestic Phalaenopsis must be well ventilated, especially in the high humidity period in summer, it must be well ventilated to prevent heat, and at the same time avoid the infection of diseases and insect pests.

5. Nutrition: Phalaenopsis should be fertilized all year round and should not be stopped unless the low temperature lasts for a long time. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period of Phalaenopsis, and the cessation of fertilizer can easily lead to no flowers or few flowers. During spring and summer, thin liquid fertilizer can be applied every 7 to 10 days, organic fertilizer should be used, and Phalaenopsis special nutrient solution can also be used, but do not apply when there are buds, otherwise it is easy to drop buds early. Long leaves in summer (that is, after flowering), nitrogen and potash fertilizer can be applied. Phosphate fertilizer can be used in autumn and winter flower stem growth period, but it should be thin, about every 2-3 weeks. The time of fertilization is after watering in the afternoon, and after several times of fertilization, orchid pots and orchid plants should be washed with a lot of water to avoid residual inorganic salts harming the roots.

6. Post-anthesis management: the flowering period is generally around the Spring Festival, and the viewing period can be as long as 2-3 months. When the flowers wither, the withered flowers should be cut off as soon as possible, which can reduce the consumption of nutrients. If the flower stem is cut off from the base of 4-5 nodes, it can blossom again after 2-3 months. However, the nutrient consumption of the plant is too high, which is not conducive to the growth of the coming year. If you want to blossom again in the coming year, it is best to cut the flower stem from the base, and when the matrix ages, it should be replaced in time, otherwise the air permeability becomes worse, which will cause root rot, weaken plant growth and even die. Generally speaking, it is appropriate to change the basin in May when the new leaves grow.

Pay attention to the main points

1. Watering too frequently: friends who cultivate Phalaenopsis always worry that Phalaenopsis is short of water, regardless of whether the cultivation medium is dry or not, watering every day, causing serious root rot.

two。 The temperature is too low: usually the flowering plants of Phalaenopsis are on the market in early spring, and they are generally admired in the living room and other places after buying them home. Although the daily temperature in these places is enough, the night temperature is a little too low. On the other hand, most of the professionally cultivated orchids are in well-equipped greenhouses, in contrast, the temperature and humidity at home are not enough, so the growth of the plant tends to weaken day by day. Therefore, sometimes, no matter how well maintained, orchids still do not blossom.

3. Excessive fertilization: apply fertilizer as soon as there is fertilizer, and do not pay attention to the concentration, thinking that the application of fertilizer will grow faster. It should be noted that Phalaenopsis should be fertilized with thin fertilizer, a small amount of fertilizer for many times. Keep in mind that "replenishment" should not be excessive, or it will be counterproductive.

4. Small plants grow large pots: feel that using large pots can give Phalaenopsis a relaxed environment and sufficient materials. In fact, after using a large basin, the water plant is not easy to dry, it is important to know that Phalaenopsis likes ventilation, ventilation is comfortable.

5. Flower dry bag: Phalaenopsis is mostly driven by flowers. After leaving the base, the dry bag problem is easy to occur after the environment changes. At this time, do not think it is dry, do not water more, but increase the indoor humidity and control the indoor temperature. The temperature can not be too high. Try to buy flowers with thick petals.

Cultivation and management

Like high temperature, high humidity, ventilated semi-overcast environment, avoid waterlogging and stuffy air. The overwintering temperature is not less than 15 degrees. Because Phalaenopsis was born in the tropical rain forest, it likes to be warm and afraid of cold. The suitable temperature for growth is 18-30 ℃, and it will stop growing below 15 C in winter, and it is easy to die below 10 ℃. If mass production is to be carried out in various parts of Lingnan, there must be cold protection facilities and protective cultivation. If families plant in small quantities, they can safely survive the winter by moving indoors to keep the temperature when they are not as expected.

Most of its reproduction uses cell tissue culture, and the seedlings are cultivated in test tubes, and they can blossom after about two years. In some mother plants, sometimes the axillary buds on the pedicel grow and develop into offspring when the flowering period is over, and when it grows roots, it can be cut off from the pedicel for ramet propagation.

Material

Because of its gas property, the plant material of its potted plant should not use soil, but should use water moss, pumice, Alsophila crumbs, charcoal, etc., or directly fix the seedlings on the corrugated board (also known as snake wood) and let it attach and grow on its own. This cultivation method is modelled on its original ecological environment. When it blossoms, hang the whole board on the wall to watch, it really has a special charm. Phalaenopsis has many air roots, and its root tip is green and sensitive, so it should be carefully protected and must not touch the damaged root tip, otherwise the root will stop growing.

Temperature

Phalaenopsis belongs to tropical high temperature orchid, and the suitable growth temperature is 20-30 ℃. If it is below 15 degrees, it will go into dormancy, and if it is below 10 ℃, it is easy to die. However, the high temperature above 35 ℃ affects growth and is easy to get sick. Flowering takes a month of 15: 18 ℃ to promote flower bud differentiation, and then if the low temperature continues, the pedicel germinates slowly.

Air

Phalaenopsis likes a highly humid and ventilated environment. It is required that the air should always maintain a humidity of 60%-80%, and it is better to have a breeze to keep the air flowing, and there should not be too much water in the basin. If the root is surrounded by liquid water for 6-8 hours, it is very easy to rot the root, so ventilation is the key to the cultivation of Phalaenopsis. If the material needs to be crisp and breathable, the root will grow strong. Avoid blowing dry and hot wind. Winter planting in the north should not be placed on the radiator or blown directly to the air conditioner.

Sunshine

Under natural conditions, Phalaenopsis is often sheltered by trees on the high branches of the tropical rain forest. Avoid the scorching sun, otherwise it will burn the leaves in a large area, but it is also not resistant to indoor overcast, which will lead to slow growth and is not conducive to nutrient storage and flowering. It is best to put it on the balcony or windowsill facing north and east, so that it can receive scattered light, then the growth is strong and disease is less.

Moisture content

Because there are no stolons and pseudobulbs, Phalaenopsis is not tolerant to drought, and Phalaenopsis is also afraid of waterlogging because of its aerial nature. High temperature in summer to keep the material moist, spray water can be used to cool and humidify (but can not make the leaf heart easy to rot) can also be used beside the flowerpot with a moist towel, but must pay attention to: the root can not be too wet for a long time, especially surrounded by liquid water for a long time is extremely easy to rot, such as summer daily water to be able to dry naturally on the same day, dry and wet, this will greatly reduce the incidence of root rot and diseases. Less watering in winter can only keep the material slightly wet.

Fertilizer application

Phalaenopsis fertilization principle is to apply thin fertilizer frequently, do not over-concentrated chemical fertilizer. The concentration should be diluted by about 1 times of the nominal concentration in chemical fertilizer packaging. That is, about 1500 to 2000 times. Phalaenopsis special fertilizer can also be used. Applying nitrogen and potassium fertilizer in the growing period and applying phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in the flowering stage. It can be used once a week or half a month. No fertilizer is applied during the dormant period of flowering, but attention should be paid to the appropriate supplement of fertilizer in the early and late anthesis.

Cultivation techniques

Phalaenopsis is the dominant orchid, which requires good ventilation of the root during cultivation, and the pot substrate must be loose, drained and breathable, and moss, fern root, bark, shell or vermiculite are commonly used. The new plant grows new root in about 3O~40 days after planting.

Fertilization was applied once every ten days during the growing period, and more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer was applied from flower bud formation to flowering stage. And often spray water on the ground and leaves to improve air humidity, which is very beneficial to the growth of stems and leaves. When the new root begins to grow from May to June every year, the temperature should be 20-25 ℃. If the temperature is too low, the new plant recovers slowly and is perishable. The high temperature above 32 ℃ is disadvantageous to the growth of Phalaenopsis, which will promote it to enter semi-dormancy state and affect flower bud differentiation, resulting in no flowering. The inflorescence of butterfly orchid is long and the flowers are large. Stand is needed when potted to prevent dumping and affect the appearance of flowers.

The size of the flowerpot is also very important, such as the root of the flower is very large, the flowerpot should also be appropriately enlarged, if the root is smaller, do not use too large flowerpot, such as the flowerpot is larger with more soil, it is easy to make the soil permeability worse. When planting, orchid, camellia, rhododendron, magnolia, gardenia, etc., need acid soil (mountain soil), Phalaenopsis, gentleman orchid rotten leaf soil, sweet-scented osmanthus, iron tree, palm bamboo and other pastoral soil 2max 3, plus briquette ash 1max 3, in order to increase soil permeability.

A complete Collection of cultivation techniques of Phalaenopsis

China Garden Network, April 17 News: cultivation conditions

(1) temperature

Phalaenopsis is a tropical plant, and the cultivation temperature should be maintained between 15 and 34 ℃. The appropriate temperature is as follows: the growth stage is 26: 27 ℃, the flowering stage is 19: 21 ℃. In order to get more pedicels, the temperature can be maintained at 18: 20 ℃ for a total of 4 weeks. When the light is insufficient or the daily temperature is too high, it should be maintained at 18 ℃ to strengthen flower induction (induction of flower buds). Because the flowering period should also maintain the growth of leaves, the period of low temperature should not be too long. In the case of insufficient light, if the temperature is more than 23 ℃ for more than 24 hours, it will lead to too much vegetative growth and the loss of buds.

(2) Light quantity

1. In the Netherlands

In order to obtain proper leaf and root development, sufficient light is needed. Too much light leads to burn marks on the leaves. Too low amount of light (lower than 100W/ rays) led to stagnation of plant growth, poor quality, improper development of flower buds and poor root development. The appropriate amount of light is 2002. In summer when the sun is strong (1400 W / kg), 80% of the shade net should be used.

two。 In the tropics

Need to have the ability to maintain 80-90% shading. A fixed net of 65% shading and another group of 65% shading movable net are usually used. In areas with heavy rain, plastic roofs should be used to reduce disease and reduce Rain Water's leaching of the medium. (Note: this paragraph is aimed at the simple facilities of awning in Indonesia and other places, not about subtropical greenhouses.)

The appropriate amount of light is as follows:

Growth stage: 5000~8000lux

Flowering stage: 8000~15000lux

In areas where year-round sunshine is common, light demand can be increased by 20%. However, we should pay attention to the refractive ability of light, so that the leaves of orchid plants get uniform light. High relative humidity should be maintained when the amount of light is high.

(3) artificial supplementary light

Artificial light supplementation is beneficial to leaf temperature, microclimate and orchid seedling growth, and can reduce plant loss. Its characteristics are as follows:

Seedling growth: promoting rapid growth and reducing orchid plant loss

Growth stage: promote rapid growth and better development

Flowering stage: it is helpful to the development of pedicel and flower bud, reduce the loss of flower bud and improve the quality.

In winter, Phalaenopsis needs at least 1214 hours and 3500 to 4000 lux of light, so it is suitable to use artificial light sources. Excessive use of light sources in sunny weather will cause the leaves to turn red, resulting in stagnant growth. In addition, the orchid plant maintained a dark period of at least 8 hours to determine its ability to absorb carbon dioxide.

(4) carbon dioxide concentration

Phalaenopsis is a plant that metabolizes sedum acid and absorbs carbon dioxide at night. The appropriate concentration is 600~800ppm.

(5) relative humidity

Phalaenopsis can protect itself from stress in low humidity because of its physiological structure, but in too humid environment, high temperature and high humidity are often accompanied by diseases. The most suitable range of relative humidity is 60%~80%RH. The relative humidity needs to be increased in the environment of high temperature and low humidity. The applicable equipment system includes adding fog particles with high-pressure spraying equipment above the greenhouse, sprinkling water under the planting bed, using water walls and fans, etc. But avoid causing crops to get wet. Another additional benefit of humidification is to lower the temperature.

(6) other materials

When crops grow in a high relative humidity environment, daytime temperature and sunshine can be increased to maintain a constant temperature inside the greenhouse and maintain a good air circulation. Therefore, the height of the greenhouse had better be 3-4 meters higher than that of plants.

In order to analyze the problems faced by plant growth, the measurement and recording of microclimate is very important. For example, light quantity, temperature and relative humidity should be measured and recorded. The measurement work can be done by using a microcomputer or a hand-held sensor, and the daily maximum / minimum values need to be measured.

Cultivation mode

(1) the cultivation medium of Cymbidium must have the following requirements:

Can make the orchid root system bear the weight of the orchid itself, maintain the normal plant shape, but not too heavy, light is better.

Good drainage performance and water retention performance. Langen needs water, but it can be removed quickly, because the stagnant water will rot the roots, and on the other hand, it will not dry quickly.

The ventilation performance is good.

There are quite a lot of mineral nutrients.

It can keep it from rotting for 1-2 years.

The price is not expensive, suitable, easy to obtain, easy to operate.

(2) the suitable media for cultivating Cymbidium are as follows:

Snake sawdust, which is made from the air roots of tree ferns; peat moss; water moss

Purple root, one is black iron wire-like hard root, the other is brown soft root; it is not perishable, contains a small amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace elements, drainage ventilation and water retention, durable. PH value 5

Bark, Douglas pine and white fir bark fragments, soft aeration and water retention, pH 4: 6

Coconut bran and coconut shell fiber

Others: Brown fiber, dried leaves, trunk branches, dried cow dung, pumice, clay blocks, broken bricks, tiles, vermiculite, plastic balls, etc. Phalaenopsis potted flowers sold in the market generally use water moss. [7]

Pre-anthesis and post-anthesis management

After the bud of butterfly orchid is formed, more phosphorus should be applied until it blossoms. When the flower stem is pulled up and tends to tilt to one side, the pedicel should be tied up so as not to break the pedicel. After that, the pedicel is growing and taller, and the binding should be carried out gradually, and the pillar is slightly curved to enhance the sense of beauty. Stop applying fertilizer during flowering and before new leaves grow. For the robust orchid plant with more than 5 leaves, the lower part of the stem can be shrunk by 3-4 nodes, and it is expected to blossom again on the remaining flower stem in the future.

Key points of maintenance

Cultivation media: the common cultivation media of Phalaenopsis are mainly aquatic plants and moss.

1. Temperature: the first thing for families to raise Phalaenopsis is to ensure the temperature. Phalaenopsis likes the environment of high temperature and humidity, the lowest temperature during the growth period should be above 15 ℃, and the suitable temperature for Phalaenopsis growth is 16-30 ℃. Attention should be paid to warming at the turn of autumn, winter and spring, as well as when the winter temperature is low. In general, rooms with heating equipment in winter are not difficult to reach, but be careful not to put flowers directly on the radiator or too close to them. When the summer temperature is too high, it is necessary to cool down and pay attention to ventilation. If the temperature is higher than 32 ℃, Phalaenopsis will usually enter a semi-dormant state to avoid continuous high temperature. The flowering period is around the Spring Festival, and proper cooling can prolong the viewing time. The night temperature during flowering should be controlled between 13 and 16 ℃, but not less than 13 ℃.

two。 Watering: Phalaenopsis is native to the primeval forest with more fog and higher temperature. Phalaenopsis does not have thick pseudobulbs to store nutrients, and if there is not enough humidity in the air, the leaves are wrinkled and weak. Therefore, Phalaenopsis should be cultivated and maintained in an environment with high ventilation and humidity. The suitable air humidity for Phalaenopsis growth is 60%-80%. The new root of Phalaenopsis should be watered more in the prosperous period and less in the dormant period after anthesis. The plants grow vigorously in spring and autumn around 05:00 in the afternoon, and the plants are watered at 09:00 and 05:00 every day. The light is weak and the temperature is low in winter. Watering every other week is enough and should be carried out before 10:00 in the morning. In the event of a cold wave, it is not suitable to water, keep dry, wait until after the cold wave to resume watering. The principle of watering is to see dry and wet, and when the surface of the cultivation substrate becomes dry, water should be watered again, and the water temperature should be close to room temperature. When the indoor air is dry, sprayers can be used to spray directly to the leaves, and you can see that the leaves are wet, but be careful not to spray water spray on the flowers during flowering. Tap water should be stored for more than 72 hours before watering.

3. Lighting: although Phalaenopsis prefers shade, it is still necessary to make the orchid plant accept part of the light, especially before and after flowering, the appropriate light can promote Phalaenopsis blossom, make the flowers gorgeous and lasting, generally should be placed indoors where there is scattered light, do not let direct sunlight.

4. Ventilation: the normal growth of Phalaenopsis needs flowing fresh air, so domestic Phalaenopsis must be well ventilated, especially in the high humidity period in summer, it must be well ventilated to prevent heat, and at the same time avoid the infection of diseases and insect pests.

5. Nutrition: Phalaenopsis should be fertilized all year round and should not be stopped unless the low temperature lasts for a long time. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period of Phalaenopsis, and the cessation of fertilizer can easily lead to no flowers or few flowers. During spring and summer, thin liquid fertilizer can be applied every 7 to 10 days, organic fertilizer should be used, and Phalaenopsis special nutrient solution can also be used, but do not apply when there are buds, otherwise it is easy to drop buds early. Long leaves in summer (that is, after flowering), nitrogen and potash fertilizer can be applied. Phosphate fertilizer can be used in autumn and winter flower stem growth period, but it should be thin, about every 2-3 weeks. The time of fertilization is after watering in the afternoon, and after several times of fertilization, orchid pots and orchid plants should be washed with a lot of water to avoid residual inorganic salts harming the roots.

6. Post-anthesis management: the flowering period is generally around the Spring Festival, and the viewing period can be as long as 2-3 months. When the flowers wither, the withered flowers should be cut off as soon as possible, which can reduce the consumption of nutrients. If the flower stem is cut off from the base of 4-5 nodes, it can blossom again after 2-3 months. However, the nutrient consumption of the plant is too high, which is not conducive to the growth of the coming year. If you want to blossom again in the coming year, it is best to cut the flower stem from the base, and when the matrix ages, it should be replaced in time, otherwise the air permeability becomes worse, which will cause root rot, weaken plant growth and even die. Generally speaking, it is appropriate to change the basin in May when the new leaves grow.

Pay attention to the main points

1. Watering too frequently: friends who cultivate Phalaenopsis always worry that Phalaenopsis is short of water, regardless of whether the cultivation medium is dry or not, watering every day, causing serious root rot.

two。 The temperature is too low: usually the flowering plants of Phalaenopsis are on the market in early spring, and they are generally admired in the living room and other places after buying them home. Although the daily temperature in these places is enough, the night temperature is a little too low. On the other hand, most of the professionally cultivated orchids are in well-equipped greenhouses, in contrast, the temperature and humidity at home are not enough, so the growth of the plant tends to weaken day by day. Therefore, sometimes, no matter how well maintained, orchids still do not blossom.

3. Excessive fertilization: apply fertilizer as soon as there is fertilizer, and do not pay attention to the concentration, thinking that the application of fertilizer will grow faster. It should be noted that Phalaenopsis should be fertilized with thin fertilizer, a small amount of fertilizer for many times. Keep in mind that "replenishment" should not be excessive, or it will be counterproductive.

4. Small plants grow large pots: feel that using large pots can give Phalaenopsis a relaxed environment and sufficient materials. In fact, after using a large basin, the water plant is not easy to dry, it is important to know that Phalaenopsis likes ventilation, ventilation is comfortable.

5. Flower dry bag: Phalaenopsis is mostly driven by flowers. After leaving the base, the dry bag problem is easy to occur after the environment changes. At this time, do not think it is dry, do not water more, but increase the indoor humidity and control the indoor temperature. The temperature can not be too high. Try to buy flowers with thick petals.

Cultivation and management

Like high temperature, high humidity, ventilated semi-overcast environment, avoid waterlogging and stuffy air. The overwintering temperature is not less than 15 degrees. Because Phalaenopsis was born in the tropical rain forest, it likes to be warm and afraid of cold. The suitable temperature for growth is 18-30 ℃, and it will stop growing below 15 C in winter, and it is easy to die below 10 ℃. If mass production is to be carried out in various parts of Lingnan, there must be cold protection facilities and protective cultivation. If families plant in small quantities, they can safely survive the winter by moving indoors to keep the temperature when they are not as expected.

Most of its reproduction uses cell tissue culture, and the seedlings are cultivated in test tubes, and they can blossom after about two years. In some mother plants, sometimes the axillary buds on the pedicel grow and develop into offspring when the flowering period is over, and when it grows roots, it can be cut off from the pedicel for ramet propagation.

Material

Because of its gas property, the plant material of its potted plant should not use soil, but should use water moss, pumice, Alsophila crumbs, charcoal, etc., or directly fix the seedlings on the corrugated board (also known as snake wood) and let it attach and grow on its own. This cultivation method is modelled on its original ecological environment. When it blossoms, hang the whole board on the wall to watch, it really has a special charm. Phalaenopsis has many air roots, and its root tip is green and sensitive, so it should be carefully protected and must not touch the damaged root tip, otherwise the root will stop growing.

Temperature

Phalaenopsis belongs to tropical high temperature orchid, and the suitable growth temperature is 20-30 ℃. If it is below 15 degrees, it will go into dormancy, and if it is below 10 ℃, it is easy to die. However, the high temperature above 35 ℃ affects growth and is easy to get sick. Flowering takes a month of 15: 18 ℃ to promote flower bud differentiation, and then if the low temperature continues, the pedicel germinates slowly.

Air

Phalaenopsis likes a highly humid and ventilated environment. It is required that the air should always maintain a humidity of 60%-80%, and it is better to have a breeze to keep the air flowing, and there should not be too much water in the basin. If the root is surrounded by liquid water for 6-8 hours, it is very easy to rot the root, so ventilation is the key to the cultivation of Phalaenopsis. If the material needs to be crisp and breathable, the root will grow strong. Avoid blowing dry and hot wind. Winter planting in the north should not be placed on the radiator or blown directly to the air conditioner.

Sunshine

Under natural conditions, Phalaenopsis is often sheltered by trees on the high branches of the tropical rain forest. Avoid the scorching sun, otherwise it will burn the leaves in a large area, but it is also not resistant to indoor overcast, which will lead to slow growth and is not conducive to nutrient storage and flowering. It is best to put it on the balcony or windowsill facing north and east, so that it can receive scattered light, then the growth is strong and disease is less.

Moisture content

Because there are no stolons and pseudobulbs, Phalaenopsis is not tolerant to drought, and Phalaenopsis is also afraid of waterlogging because of its aerial nature. High temperature in summer to keep the material moist, spray water can be used to cool and humidify (but can not make the leaf heart easy to rot) can also be used beside the flowerpot with a moist towel, but must pay attention to: the root can not be too wet for a long time, especially surrounded by liquid water for a long time is extremely easy to rot, such as summer daily water to be able to dry naturally on the same day, dry and wet, this will greatly reduce the incidence of root rot and diseases. Less watering in winter can only keep the material slightly wet.

Fertilizer application

Phalaenopsis fertilization principle is to apply thin fertilizer frequently, do not over-concentrated chemical fertilizer. The concentration should be diluted by about 1 times of the nominal concentration in chemical fertilizer packaging. That is, about 1500 to 2000 times. Phalaenopsis special fertilizer can also be used. Applying nitrogen and potassium fertilizer in the growing period and applying phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in the flowering stage. It can be used once a week or half a month. No fertilizer is applied during the dormant period of flowering, but attention should be paid to the appropriate supplement of fertilizer in the early and late anthesis.

Cultivation techniques

Phalaenopsis is the dominant orchid, which requires good ventilation of the root during cultivation, and the pot substrate must be loose, drained and breathable, and moss, fern root, bark, shell or vermiculite are commonly used. The new plant grows new root in about 3O~40 days after planting.

Fertilization was applied once every ten days during the growing period, and more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer was applied from flower bud formation to flowering stage. And often spray water on the ground and leaves to improve air humidity, which is very beneficial to the growth of stems and leaves. When the new root begins to grow from May to June every year, the temperature should be 20-25 ℃. If the temperature is too low, the new plant recovers slowly and is perishable. The high temperature above 32 ℃ is disadvantageous to the growth of Phalaenopsis, which will promote it to enter semi-dormancy state and affect flower bud differentiation, resulting in no flowering. The inflorescence of butterfly orchid is long and the flowers are large. Stand is needed when potted to prevent dumping and affect the appearance of flowers.

The size of the flowerpot is also very important, such as the root of the flower is very large, the flowerpot should also be appropriately enlarged, if the root is smaller, do not use too large flowerpot, such as the flowerpot is larger with more soil, it is easy to make the soil permeability worse. When planting, orchid, camellia, rhododendron, magnolia, gardenia, etc., need acid soil (mountain soil), Phalaenopsis, gentleman orchid rotten leaf soil, sweet-scented osmanthus, iron tree, palm bamboo and other pastoral soil 2max 3, plus briquette ash 1max 3, in order to increase soil permeability.

 
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