How to treat pear bonsai scab? Control methods of scab in pear bonsai

Nowadays, many people like bonsai. The great advantage of bonsai is that plants that need to be planted outside can now be viewed indoors in bonsai. Pear bonsai is one of them, but many pear bonsai farmers say scab bothers them very much. Indeed, pear bonsai scab is a common disease in pear bonsai. According to years of control experience, two key links should be grasped in order to control pear bonsai scab: one is to eliminate overwintering pathogen, and the other is chemical control. The following is to learn the prevention and control methods of pear bonsai scab in detail with the editor of Huinong net.

Eliminate overwintering pathogen

The medicine eradicates the overwintering germs. Before sprouting, spray 3-5 Baumedo stone-sulfur mixture, or 45% stone-sulfur mixture crystal 50-60 times, or 45% desenamine water agent 100-200 times, to eradicate the overwintering bacteria on the tree.

Spraying after sprouting and before flowering can kill the bacteria in the bud, reduce the number of diseased shoots and reduce the source of bacteria. The commonly used effective agents are 40% nitrilazole wettable powder 5000 times, 62.25% manganese zinc nitrile wettable powder 600 times, 12.5% uniconazole wettable powder 1500 times 2000 times, 25% difenoconazole EC 6000 times, and so on.

Remove the tip of the disease thoroughly. Remove diseased leaves and fruits in time.

Chemical control

The important link of prevention and control of pear scab. The spraying period and times are different in different bonsai gardens and different years. But generally speaking, the principle of "grasping both ends" should be carried out, that is, from falling flowers to before and after wheat harvest and 1.5 months before harvest. The key period of overwintering pathogen infecting young leaves and young fruits is from falling flowers to before and after wheat harvest. The purpose of control is to control the primary infection, that is, to control the disease of young leaves and young fruits. Generally speaking, it should be sprayed about 3 times before wheat harvest and 1 time after wheat harvest. 1.5 months before harvest, mainly to prevent fruit damage, generally should be sprayed about 3 times. The specific spraying time and times should be flexibly controlled according to the rainfall.

There are many kinds of agents for the prevention and treatment of scab. The commonly used effective agents are 40% nitrilazole wettable powder 5000 times, 62.25% manganese zinc nitrile wettable powder 600 times, 12.5% uniconazole wettable powder 1 500 times, 25% difenoconazole EC 6 000 times, 6% chlorophenylpyrimidinol 1 000 times, 40% fluorosilazole EC 8 000 times. Spray should be even and thoughtful, so that "turn down and buckle up, hit thoroughly on all sides".

The above are the prevention and control methods of pear bonsai scab arranged by Huinong net Xiaobian. Have you learned all these? If you want to know more about agricultural technology, please follow Huinong School!

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The Culture method of Elm Bonsai Conservation of Elm Bonsai

The Culture method of Elm Bonsai Conservation of Elm Bonsai

Elm trees, especially the old piles of elm trees growing in the wild, have gradually formed many different strange postures after years of man-made chopping axe chisels, or wind and rain erosion, animal bites and so on. Some are intertwined, vigorous and simple, while others turn decay into magic, withered roots and new leaves, unique caves, and are excellent materials for making bonsai. This paper puts forward our views on the production, maintenance and management of elm bonsai for reference.

First of all, the selection of piles should be strict. Try to choose small and medium-sized piles to facilitate balcony cultivation; pile blanks must be fresh, decayed and rootless. The newly excavated old piles of elm trees should be planted on plain sand land or planted in tile basins, generally from late autumn to early spring (the survival rate is the highest in two or three months before sprouting). Before planting, it is necessary to prune the roots and branches, and there is often viscous sap outflow (pulp running) at the cut. If the liquid exudates too much, it will seriously affect the survival rate. The biggest disadvantage of all Ulmus varieties is that it is easy to drain juice and run pulp. If the pile billet can not effectively overcome this disadvantage before and after planting, then it is difficult to ensure the survival of the pile. In this regard, you can use paint or wax to close the incision, or you can apply a layer of erythromycin ointment or sulfonamide ointment, and then sprinkle with fine sand. After the cut has been properly handled, do not immediately put it on the basin, but should be placed in a cool place to dry for a few hours, so that the wound can naturally collect water and form a protective film, which can greatly reduce the occurrence of slurry running after the pile billet is put on the basin. Elm trees like to be dry and afraid of dampness. After planting, the soil can be compacted without watering. It is only necessary to spray fresh water on the branches once or twice a day, and water again after 3 or 4 days. If there is no dry work or watering in the future, stagnant water will never be allowed.

Secondly, according to the basic form of the old pile, the elm bonsai should be made into different forms of bonsai, such as straight dry type, curved dry type, oblique dry type, water-facing type, cliff type, wind-blowing type, jungle type, stone-attached type and so on. Modeling time can be dormant period after falling leaves, can also be carried out in the growing period, but must avoid the budding period.

After forming, the elm bonsai was planted in purple sand basin before sprouting in spring, and the sandy soil with loose air permeability, good drainage and rich humus was selected for planting. It is best to use the ratio of yellow sand: pine needle soil: loess = 4:3:3, this kind of soil is both breathable and water-retaining, and will not accumulate water. Usually placed in a place with good ventilation and sufficient light for maintenance, it is best to keep the basin soil dry. When it is hot and dry in summer, it can sprinkle water on the ground around the plant, but it is not suitable to spray water directly to the leaf surface, so as not to make the leaf bigger and lose its sense of beauty. Do not rush to fertilize after the survival of the new pile, which is an important reason for the failure of many people to raise billet, which should be applied again after autumn, and it is best to apply fully mature dilute liquid fertilizer.

The germination of elm is very strong, growing fast, the growing season should be often pruned, cut off too long, disorderly branches, in order to maintain the beauty of the tree. The best viewing period of elm bonsai is when the new leaves are just coming out, if all the leaves are removed in the first and middle of August, and the fertilizer and water management will be strengthened later, new leaves will grow again in late September to improve the ornamental value. Winter moved to the bright cold room, can also be buried in the outdoor leeward to the sun of the soil, reduce watering, so that the plant fully dormant. During maintenance, the basin is turned every 2 to 3 years to make the bonsai grow vigorously and full of vitality.

Hammer elm

Nut elm is graceful in shape, chic in posture, mottled bark, fine branches and leaves, isolated planting in the courtyard, cluster planting, or with pavilions, mountains and rocks are very suitable. It can also be selected as a greening tree species in the factory mining area. Hammer elm tree is hard and can be used for industrial wood; stem bark fiber is strong and can be used as rope and man-made fiber; roots, bark and tender leaves are used as medicine to reduce swelling and relieve pain, detoxify and treat fever, and external application to treat water and fire scalds; leaf soil pesticides can kill red spiders.

Morphological characteristics

Deciduous trees, or winter leaves become yellow or red and persist until new leaves open in the second year, up to 25 m high, DBH up to 1 m; crown broadly orbicular, trunk base sometimes tabular root, bark gray or grayish brown, split into irregular scalelike flakes peeling, revealing reddish-brown endothelium, nearly smooth, rugged; current year's branches densely pubescent, dark brown; winter buds ovoid, reddish brown, glabrous. The leaves are thick, lanceolate-ovate or narrowly elliptic, sparsely ovate or Obovate, with different lengths and widths on both sides of the towel veins, 1.7 × 8 (often 2.5 × 5) cm long and 0.8 × 3 (often 1 × 2) cm wide, apex pointed or obtuse, base oblique, cuneate or one side round, dark green, glossy, except for sparse hairs in the midvein, glabrous in the rest, sunken in the lateral veins, lighter back color, pubescent when young. After becoming glabrous or sparsely hairy along veins, or with tufted hairs in vein axils, margin with obtuse and neat simple serrate from base to apex, sparsely doubly serrate (such as leaves of germinating branches), lateral veins 10 × 15 on each side, veinlets obvious on both sides, petiole 2 × 6 mm long, only hairy above. Flowers open in autumn, 3-6 fascicled or arranged in clusters of leaf veins, perianth cup-shaped distally, lower tubular, perianth segments 4, parted to or near base of cup-shaped perianth, pedicel very short, sparsely hairy. Samara elliptic or ovate-elliptic, 10-13 mm long and 6-8 mm wide, glabrous except for apical notched stigma indumentum, the rest is glabrous, the fruit wing is slightly thicker, the basal stalk is about 2 mm long, and the wings on both sides are narrower than the fruit kernel, which is located in the middle and upper part of the Samara, the upper end is close to the notch, the perianth segments fall off or remain, and the fruit pedicel is shorter than the tubular perianth, 1 × 3 mm longer, with sparse short hairs. The flowering and fruiting period is from August to October.

Growth habit

Born in plains, hills, slopes and valleys. It is light-loving, drought-tolerant and can grow on acidic, neutral and alkaline soil, but the most suitable habitat is neutral soil with warm climate, fertile soil and good drainage.

Geographical distribution

Distributed in Hebei, Shandong, Jiangsu, Anhui, Zhejiang, Fujian, Taiwan, Jiangxi, Guangdong, Guangxi, Hunan, Hubei, Guizhou, Sichuan, Shaanxi, Henan and other provinces. It is also distributed in Japan and North Korea.

Cultivation and management

Bonsai production

(1) material selection and cultivation measures

Artificial propagation: Ulmus pumila is usually sown and propagated. From October to November, the seeds are ripe and the fruit wings are yellowish brown. They should be harvested in time, spread out and dried, sundries removed and stored in bags. Sowing, sowing or strip sowing in March of the following spring. The row spacing of strip sowing is 25 cm, sowing on a windless and sunny day, covered with fine soil, with no seeds for the degree, and then covered with straw. It can be germinated and unearthed in about 30 days, so the grass should be uncovered in time and the seedlings should be suitable. During the growth period, we should do a good job in water and fertilizer management, weed and loosen the soil, and the seedlings of the same year can be as high as 30cm and 40cm. Young tree seedlings have sparse dry twigs and large leaves, which are generally not suitable for making bonsai. They should be cultivated for several years. After pruning and shaping, it is better to go on the basin. In addition, Ulmus pumila can also be propagated by root cuttings to cultivate pile materials, which has a fast effect and is widely used in South China.

Mountain mining: there are more pumpkin elm growing in the south of the Yangtze River, and limestone mountains are more common. The old tree stump that has been cut down for many years, especially the elm stump growing in barren slopes, river ditches or mountain stone gaps, is slow in development, long in age, processed by natural wind and waves, thick roots, vigorous twists and turns, oblique and horizontal branches and leaves, and small leaves. The best one is old and clumsy. Dig before sprouting in spring, cut off unnecessary roots and branches, protect accessory roots and whisker roots, beat mud and wrap them with wet moss. After digging back, choose the land with ventilation and light, loose and moist soil for deep buried cultivation, which is called "embryo cultivation". When the root system is developed and the new branches and leaves are luxuriant, they will be processed and shaped in the basin. Take the old pile as the bonsai material, can shorten the bonsai processing time, and the shape is natural and simple, different from ordinary goods, and easy to survive.

It takes at least 2 to 3 years for the old tree stump to be cultivated. A rapid culture method is introduced here, which is especially suitable for the growth of bonsai. The hammer elm stump dug back in early spring was first planted in a tile bowl, and after survival, the unwanted buds were picked at any time, and the posture began from the end of April to the beginning of May. When the branches grow to 15-18 cm long, use thin wire to climb and shape, and pay attention to maintenance and management. When sprouting new branches and growing 4-6 leaves, pruning can be carried out. Generally, only two leaves are left on each twig, and nitrogen fertilizer is applied immediately to promote the emergence of new buds on the new branches, so that the leaves can grow thickly as soon as possible. With the continuous thickening of branches, the wire must be removed in time to prevent "trapping". For the unshaped branches, they can be clamped up again to fix their shape. In this way, a pot of nut elm pile scene can be initially formed in September.

The key to this rapid prototyping method is mainly climbing when the xylem of the branch has not yet hardened, so the production should be made with special care, the thickness of the wire should also be selected properly, and the winding should not be too tight to prevent damage to the delicate branches. In addition, it is also necessary to do a good job of "raising embryos" in order to achieve the goal of digging piles for one year to make bonsai.

(2) the process of putting up the basin

Selection of basin: hammer elm pile scene is generally suitable to use glazed pottery basin, but also can use purple sand pottery basin. The shape of the basin is various, depending on the shape of the tree, and the rectangular basin is the most common. Simple and elegant is the best color.

Use soil: the requirement to the soil is not strict, the adaptability is strong. Pot culture with loose and fertile pastoral soil or rotten leaf soil is suitable, good air permeability and water permeability, is conducive to the development and growth of roots and maintain the luxuriant branches of old piles.

Planting: usually planted before sprouting in February-March in spring, or in autumn. When planting, trim the root properly, cut off the overlong root, and lift it properly. The root system of Ulmus pumila is well developed, which is suitable for bonsai with stone. The planting of attached stone is more difficult, generally, it is necessary to choose the stone with deeper cracks (the cancellous stone can be artificially carved into a stone gap), trim the roots, embed them into the cracks, and tie the main coarse roots with brown silk to make them fixed. When taking root, pay attention not to damage the root system as far as possible, can be covered with moss. After taking root, smear the wet river soil on the outside of the stone, then wrap it with moss, and then plant the root together with the attached stone in the basin soil and carefully maintain it for 3-4 years. The root system embedded in the stone gap can be fully grown and filled with stone gap, and then the root system and the stone form an organic whole, and the stone-attached bonsai of a pot of hammer elm is basically completed.

(3) Positioning techniques

Processing: hammer elm can be modeled by pruning method or combined with climbing. Brown wire or metal wire can be used for climbing. Due to the rapid growth of nut elm branches, the climbing materials should be removed in time, so as not to cause "silk trapping" and affect the appearance. For the old stump excavated in the mountains, the over-thick trunk can be carved to reduce the volume, be commensurate with the side branches, and increase the ancient interest at the same time. The posture of the elm is usually carried out before the spring sprouting or in the rainy season.

Tree shape: hammer elm has strong plasticity and is suitable for processing into many kinds of trees. The common ones are straight dry type, oblique dry type, horizontal dry type, cliff type, stone-attached type, co-planting type and so on. The branches and leaves can be tied into pieces or trimmed into a natural crown. In particular, the shaping of stone-attached elm bonsai can intercept a corner of nature and allow a certain amount of exaggeration. In order to render a certain part of the charm, trees can be above the rocks, mainly trees, followed by stone, without the restriction of "Zhangshan foot tree". Lingnan School, Su School and Yang School in bonsai in China often take nut elm as the main tree species.

Maintenance and management

Place: the elm should be placed in a place with plenty of sunshine and good ventilation. There is no need for shade in summer and can be placed outdoors in winter. In order to prevent the basin soil from drying and freezing, the basin can be buried in the soil. Watering: hammer elm like to be moist, watering should be sufficient, summer temperature and high light intensity, water once in the morning and evening, but do not make the basin stagnant water. It can be watered less in autumn, but it is not necessary to be watered in winter, such as buried in basin soil.

Fertilization: apply barnyard manure or cake fertilizer as base fertilizer in winter, and apply thin organic fertilizer every half a month from April to October (except Meiyu season) to maintain the need for normal growth nutrients. Nitrogen and potash are the main fertilizers.

Pruning: the branches and leaves of Ulmus pumila grow fast, so it is appropriate to prune regularly in order to maintain the bonsai model. generally, when the new bud branch extends to 5 cm, only 2 leaves remain, and the rest are cut off. In order to control growth, buds can be removed at any time.

Turn the basin: every 2-3 years, the best time is before sprouting in spring, or in autumn. When turning the basin, the old soil around 1B2 can be removed, and part of the old roots can be cut off to fill up with fertile and loose culture soil.

Pest control: there are many insect pests in elm, such as elm leaf golden flower insect, shell insect, longicorn beetle, diamondback moth, coir moth and so on. It can be sprayed with 1500 times of dichlorvos, longicorn beetles harm tree trunks, and stone-sulfur mixture can be used to block wormholes.

Prevention and control of common diseases of bonsai

There are two kinds of common and harmful diseases of elm pile in bonsai production: root rot and shoot clump disease. When the root rot is serious, it directly leads to the death of the stump; the arbuscular disease seriously affects the normal growth of the stump, which makes it difficult for the branch to take shape for many years, and when it is serious, it causes the pile to atrophy and the branch is out of state and abandoned. Root rot: the symptoms of root rot of Elm pile are mainly characterized by yellowing and shedding of leaves, gradual withering of branches, stagnation of buds for a long time or cessation of growth. When digging wild elm piles, we must pay more attention to make the cross section of the root neat, do not leave a wound, in order to prevent the invasion of bacteria. The branch cortex of elm pile is thicker and there is more water, so the root section must be properly dried before raising billet pseudo-planting, and germicidal solution can be applied to prevent root disease. Unclean soil with humus and unfermented substance should not be selected when pseudo-planting. The soil should be disinfected, and the water should be strictly controlled during billet raising, so as not to make the roots in a state of excessive moisture and long-term soaking, which can easily lead to the growth of root rot fungi. Once a dark brown rot is found in the root cortex when turning the basin, the fresh tissue should be scraped off immediately with a sharp weapon, and the affected part should be coated with 25% wettable powder and carbendazim with a concentration of 1000 times, and be served after the liquid is dried. At the same time, the necrotic root strips should be cut off and burned, and attention should be paid not to mix the scraped residue into the basin soil to prevent re-infection. Fertilizer can be applied only after the new root of wound healing is produced to enhance its disease resistance. Witches' broom disease: Ulmus pumila mainly harms new shoots and leaves, showing the symptoms of new shoots clumping, upright upward, early and small spreading leaves of diseased branches, dense branches and so on. The pathogen of arbuscular disease overwintered with mycelia on the damaged shoots and invaded when drawing new shoots in the second year. When pruning the elm pile in winter, the tufted shoots should be cut off and burned centrally, and the stone-sulfur mixture of 5 degrees Be could be sprayed before budding in early spring, and the effect was remarkable. Spraying can be carried out once a week during the growing period and lasts five rounds to eradicate witches' broom disease. During this period, do not spray water on the branches and leaves except for shelter from the rain. Keep the leaves dry.

Garden value

The dried elm is slightly curved, the bark is mottled and elegant, the twigs are graceful, and the autumn leaves turn red. It is a good ornamental tree and factory greening, greening tree species on all sides, often planted alone into a scene, suitable for planting near the pond and pavilions, but also between mountains and rocks, but there are more diseases and insect pests. It has strong sprouting power and is a good material for making bonsai.

The tree has the advantages of beautiful shape, chic posture, mottled bark and fine branches and leaves, which has high ornamental value. It is suitable to plant alone, in clusters or with pavilions in the garden, and it has a good ornamental effect as shade trees, street trees or bonsai. Because of its strong resistance, it can also be selected as a greening tree species in the factory mining area.

Elm tree

Scientific name: Ulmus pumia Linn. Family and genus: Ulmaceae, Ulmus. Deciduous Arbor, native to the north, the wood is several meters high: the skin is exhausted. Summer has scales peeling off, leaves oval, edges serrated, dark green, leathery, and shiny. Small flowers bloom in March and April, and the fruit is flat and round. There are membrane wings. It is called Yuqian and can be used as food. There are three kinds of elm trees: big leaves, middle leaves and leaflets, of which the big leaves are large and thin. The color of the leaves is not as good as that of the middle leaves and lobules, so it is not welcomed by bonsai creators and has been eliminated. The growth rate of the middle leaf is faster than that of the leaflet, and the ornamental value of the leaflet ten is higher than that of the middle leaf, so both of them can coexist, one for those in need. Elm is the most ideal tree species for shaping Lingnan bonsai, and it is one of the five famous trees in Lingnan bonsai, including Jiuli incense, sparrow plum, Fujian tea, elm, all over the sky. It mainly has the following advantages. The growth rate of ① is fast (it is the top of five famous trees). Whether it is the growth rate of embryo material and the use of truncation and branch storage, the tree has a faster speed. ② has small leaves, beautiful shape and dark green color, which meets the requirements of making bonsai. ③ has better trauma, greater plasticity and larger wound healing by electric energy, which can be used to transform the pile head of tree embryo. If it needs to be shrunk, it can heal naturally after cutting off some of it. If you need to expand it, you can use the methods of "hitting" and "picking skin" to make use of its callus and proliferative tissue to become rugged nodules, which not only has the beauty of vigorous strength, but also makes the rich cadres feel bigger. The branches of ④ are soft and not easy to break, which is beneficial to shaping and binding. The root head of ⑤ is well developed, and it can be modified arbitrarily by using the principle of callus to meet the requirements of various tree types, and it is also ideal for shaping the stone type. The germination rate of ⑥ is high, and elm has the highest shade germination rate of all tree species. The whole body is covered with latent buds. In the germination period before the Beginning of Spring, all the tree trunks with wounds germinate. It is very convenient to choose and choose the location of bonsai branches. if you need to grow branches somewhere, make a hole there, and there will be sprouts there until you see the xylem. After growing into a branch, the wound will heal naturally without leaving a very obvious trace. 2. Habits and management of elm like sunshine, cold resistance, not only moist soil, but also hydrophobic, especially in transplanting to prevent waterlogging rotting roots. The germination of elm is so strong that it will sprout wherever there is a wound when it is suitable for the season (during the period of the Beginning of Spring). During the unsuitable season, it is necessary for the whole plant to germinate without leaves (picking off the leaves) to achieve the ideal. If a single branch is cut when it is not suitable for the season (other branches still grow with leaves), it will cause non-germination. Therefore, in modeling, when the size of a branch meets the requirements, the method of early inhibition (binding branches and leaves, limiting the use of light cooperation) is mostly used to limit the growth of this branch. When the branches of the whole plant are in proportion, they will be cut together so that the branches of the whole plant can sprout together, so that the branches can grow evenly. When a branch shrinks when it encounters a disease, electricity can remove the leaves of the whole tree, which can promote the sprouting of the diseased branch and the whole branch together and solve the disease of a single diseased branch. Digging elm transplant should be carried out during the period from Lesser Cold to Greater Cold every year. Digging in this period will make the elm tree survive even if it does great damage to the root system of the elm tree. The farther away from Greater Cold's season, the lower the survival rate of transplant regeneration. 3. Propagation method Elm has become a cultivated species in the south, and there are two methods of reproduction, one is the high-pressure method (commonly known as circle branch), which can be carried out all year round except during the dormant period. High-pressure propagation can get good modeling skills, but the beauty of pile head and root system is not as beautiful as the pile head propagated by root strips, which is often used as commercial bonsai. The second method of reproduction is root insertion. Take the root strips (regardless of size) cut off when digging the pile head of elm trees from Lesser Cold to Greater Cold every year; splice or each piece is about 10 cm in length and instantly planted in fully hydrophobic and breathable mud:!: the hall with enough fixed root water (which should also be covered in case of rain). In a month or so, it will sprout and grow. It is routinely managed. The following year, intercropping was transplanted. Elm trees planted with roots, a few years later, the pile head is strong and rugged, the pit is deeply cracked, and the roots are staggered, which can create works with artistic personality. 4. the common pests in elm are red spider, oyster scale, cotton scale and so on. The damage of the red spider to the elm is that the leaves are gray and dry, and the leaves can be seen to be eaten into a network under the transmission of sunlight (the insect body is too small to be visible to the naked eye). So that the affected trees can not sprout and grow for a long time. The damage of the oyster scale is that the branches of the elm are covered with white filaments, and the damaged branches are thin, die for a long time, and wither the whole branch (refer to the pest control chapter for control methods). The second is sun disease, exposure in the strong sun, elm bark is easy to be scorched, we should try to protect the bark to overcome this disease. The biggest disease of elm bonsai is branch shrinkage. This disease often occurs after the elm becomes a bonsai, which ends well with a bonsai. Watching it shrink in skill and fail to form a scene, if it cannot be overcome in time, it will lose a lot. The main reason why ① causes elm to shrink is that elm is a tree that grows rapidly on the land and has a well-developed root system. After transplanting it into a basin (especially a shallow landscape basin after bonsai), there is not much soil in the basin, and the root system soon fills up the whole basin and intertwines each other into a "root nest". This "root nest" is so tight that it is difficult for water to infiltrate, and the water only overflows on the mud surface, resulting in a shortage of water. the phenomenon of lack of fertilizer weakens the tree gradually. At the same time, after the work is formed, the branches are dense, the nutrition consumption is large and the ventilation condition is poor, resulting in thin branches, weak disease resistance and easy to cause insect pests. These adverse factors are the primary causes of branch shrinkage of elm. The first manifestation of this disease is slow germination (the normal growth should be that the bud keeps the germination state of green), and then the phenomenon of lack of water and fertilizer occurs. The branches inside (poorly ventilated) first aging and shrinking, and gradually spread to the disease of the whole plant. The way to solve the shrinking branch of elm by ② is to pay close attention to the growth state of the plant. If you find the above situation, you can use pry to detect the soil, which is proved to be caused by the lack of water and fertilizer due to the tight "root nest". It is necessary to take immediate measures to loosen the soil deep into the "root nest" with a crowbar, so that water and fertilizer can effectively seep into the soil, and at the same time, fertilizing outside the root, and spraying water to the leaves, and so on, so as to alleviate the symptoms of the disease. when entering the Ⅱ period, turn the basin immediately, remove as much of the root system as possible and replace it with new mud, and the disease will naturally be improved. Experience has proved that elm bonsai should be turned over, cut roots, and changed mud every year (during the period from Lesser Cold to Greater Cold) to ensure normal growth.

Elm pile planting method: * gummed cut, compacted with plain yellow mud, do not water. Put it in a dark place. Water it after 10 days. Shade. I have been planted for a whole month and have luxuriant branches and leaves.

The oar juice must be prevented from flowing out, and the incision should not encounter water within a week.

* cut off the branches and leaves, one-time repair, pure sand planting (semi-wet), do not water temporarily, leave the room in a cool place, spray water on the branches several times a day, wait until the branches sprout, gradually move from the indoor to the outdoor shade, and then gradually move to the normal sun (avoid at noon). After about a month, you can enter the normal management according to the situation.

Elm trees are distributed all over China, generally transplanting in the dormant period in winter and spring, especially in February and March before sprouting. The branches and roots should be trimmed before planting, and the viscous sap will often flow out from the wound. If the sap exudates too much, it will seriously affect the survival rate. You can also apply a layer of erythromycin ointment on the cut with wax, paint, etc., and then sprinkle with fine sand to prevent sap outflow, but you must not soak it with water, otherwise it will aggravate the loss of sap and cause the root to rett. The plant died. After planting, the soil is compacted, but it is not necessary to water it. Spray clean water on the trunk once or twice a day, and water once after 2 to 3 days. After the maintenance of the plant in a ventilated and transparent place, watering does not dry and does not water, watering is thoroughly, and soil stagnant water is strictly prohibited. The shape of elm bonsai can be either in the growing period or in the dormant period, but it is necessary to avoid the budding period so as not to lose too much sap and affect the plant growth. Its form can be processed into straight dry type, curved dry type, oblique dry type, dry type, water-facing type, cliff type, jungle type and other different forms of bonsai according to the basic shape of the stump. The crown can not only be natural, but also can be shaped by a big tree with a dome, and can be processed into a regular disc shape. The modeling method is to tie and cut at the same time, first using wire to tie out the basic shape, and then fine pruning.

The wound section is smeared with erythromycin or sealed wax, the page is sprayed with water, and it is not too late to stay for a few more days in watering. Otherwise, it will be difficult to survive if you run out of starch. Cut off the roots and add plant ash. It can stop the pulp. Water it a week after planting. Fill up the mud. Then seal the clay with plastic sheeting. Leave it alone. It will sprout around March 20 next spring. The transplant was injured. The immunity is poor. Just put a plastic bag on it. Wait until the bud has 2-3 leaves before removing it. About the time is mid-April, it can't be watered before)

How to raise the bonsai of Pearl Plum

Pearl plum, native to northern Asia, is a kind of shrub and deciduous broad-leaved shrub with strong shade tolerance, cold tolerance, moisture tolerance and drought tolerance. Pearl plum is mostly planted in garden courtyard. The following introduces how to raise the bonsai of Pearl Plum and how to raise it in detail.

Introduction of Pearl Plum

Pearl plum is native to northern Asia and is distributed in Hebei, Gansu, Shandong, Shanxi, Inner Mongolia, Jiangsu and other places in China. It is a kind of shrub and deciduous broad-leaved shrub with strong shade tolerance, cold tolerance, moisture tolerance and drought tolerance. If the soil is not strict, it can grow normally in ordinary soil, but it grows stronger in moist and fertile soil. Fast growth, strong sprouting ability and resistance to pruning.

Spray snowflakes belong to the genus Prunus of Rosaceae. It is so named because of its dense and snow-white flowers when it blossoms. Also because of its leaves like willow leaves, flowers as white as snow, also known as "snow willow". Pearl plum is mostly planted in the garden courtyard, generally do not need to fertilize, but must be often irrigated, especially in spring and summer drought to keep the soil moist.

Adequate winter water should be given before the beginning of winter, and overwintering should be protected in high and cold areas, and other management is more extensive. Pearl plum has plump bushes and beautiful branches and leaves, which bloom elegantly white flowers and have a long flowering period in the summer when there are no flowers. In particular, it can kill or inhibit a variety of harmful bacteria, so it is suitable to be planted in all kinds of garden and green space. In particular, it has the characteristics of shade tolerance, so it is a flower and shrub species for greening on the north side of tall buildings and all kinds of buildings in northern cities.

1. Morphological characteristics

Pearl plum is a shrub, up to 2 m tall, branches spreading; branchlets Terete, slightly flexed, glabrous or puberulent, green at first, dark reddish brown or dark yellowish brown when old; winter buds ovate, apex obtuse, glabrous or apical puberulent, purple-brown, with several alternate exserted scales.

Pinnately compound leaves, 11-17 leaflets, petioles 13-23 cm long and 10-13 cm wide, leaf rachis slightly pubescent Leaflets opposite, 2-2.5 cm apart, lanceolate to ovate-lanceolate, 5-7 cm long, 1.8-2.5 cm wide, apex acuminate, sparse tail tip, base subrounded or broadly cuneate, sparsely oblique, margin acutely doubly serrate, upper and lower surfaces glabrous or nearly glabrous, pinnately reticulate venation, with lateral veins 12-16 pairs, conspicuous below; leaflets sessile or nearly sessile. Stipules qualitative, ovate-lanceolate to triangular-lanceolate, apex acuminate to acute, margin irregularly serrate or entire, 8-13 mm long, 5-8 mm wide, outside minutely pubescent.

Terminal large dense panicle, branches suberect, 10-20 cm long, 5-12 cm in diameter, total pedicel and pedicel stellate hairy or pubescent, gradually deciduous in fruit, nearly glabrous; bracts ovate-lanceolate to linear-lanceolate, 5-10 mm long, 3-5 mm wide, apex long acuminate, entire or shallowly toothed, upper and lower surfaces puberulent, gradually deciduous in fruit; pedicel 5-8 mm long. Flowers 10-12 mm in diam.; calyx tube campanulate, outside base puberulent; sepals triangular-ovate, apex obtuse or acute, sepals ca. as long as calyx tube; petals oblong or Obovate, 5-7 mm long, 3-5 mm wide, white; stamens 40-50, ca. 1.5-2 times longer than petals, born at margin of disk; carpels 5, glabrous or slightly pilose.

Follicles oblong, with terminal curved style, ca. 3 mm, fruiting pedicel erect; sepals persistent, reflexed, sparsely spreading. The flowering period is from July to August and the fruiting period is September.

2. Ecological habits

Pearl plum is resistant to cold, half shade and pruning. It grows better in sandy loam with good drainage. It grows fast and is easy to sprout. It is a good flowering plant in summer.

There are many positive plants in Rosaceae, and spraying snow is no exception. It likes the sun and is resistant to a certain water and wet environment, but it is not suitable to accumulate water for a long time. Lax requirements on soil, tolerance to a certain amount of salt and alkali, suitable for growth in Shanghai

The mode of reproduction of Pearl Plum

Pearl plum is mainly propagated by the method of dividing plants, and it can also be sown. However, because the seeds are small, the sowing method is not used. Ramet propagation is generally carried out before sprouting in spring or after defoliation in autumn. The sprouting seedlings clustered in the root of the plant were dug out with roots, and 3-5 plants were used as a clump and planted separately.

When planting, apply 2-lift compost as base fertilizer, and pour water thoroughly after planting. Water can be watered about once a week in the future. Until they survive. The clumps of more than 5-year-old plants can grow into a large crown width, and the soil around the old clumps can be planed before sprouting in early spring, and then the surrounding roots and tillers can be excavated from the mother one by one, transferred to the nursery and cultivated in the nursery, and the seedlings can come out of the nursery one year later. The sowing method can be used in mass propagation of seedlings. The seeds are dried and stored and sown in spring the following year.

1. Ramet propagation

Pearl plum is easy to germinate roots and tillers in the process of growth, so it can be propagated in March and April in early spring. The plants with strong growth, no diseases and insect pests and more tillers were selected as the mother plant.

The method is to dig up the soil around the root of the mother plant which is more than 5 years old, cut down from the middle of the gap, separate the tiller from the mother plant, and divide 5 to 7 trees per tree. The separated root tiller seedlings should have complete roots, and if the lateral roots of the root tiller seedlings are thin and many, they should be cut off properly when planting. This breeding method has the advantages of high survival rate, quick effect and simple management, but the number of reproduction is limited. After ramet, pour enough water, and move the plant into a slightly shaded place, gradually put in the sun for normal maintenance a week later.

2. Cuttage propagation

This method is suitable for mass propagation and can be carried out all the year round, but the cuttings in March and October take root the fastest and the survival rate is high. Cutting soil generally uses 5 parts of garden soil, 4 parts of humus soil, 1 part of sandy soil, mixed ditch to make beds, and cuttings in open field. Cuttings should choose current or biennial mature branches on robust plants, cut and grow 15 to 20 centimeters, leaving 4 to 5 buds or leaves. When cutting, cut the cuttings into the soil, leaving only one or two buds or leaves at the top of the soil. Cuttings should be cut flat, cut into horseshoe shape, cut along with cutting, suppress the soil at the base of cuttings, and pour water once. After that, spray water once or twice a day, often keeping the soil moist. Reduce the number of water spraying after 20 days to prevent excessive dampness and cause branch rot, which can take root and transplant in about 1 month.

3. Striping propagation

In March and April, the branches on the periphery of the mother plant are bent and pressed directly into the soil, and the pressed parts of the soil can also be cut or scratched to promote rapid rooting. After the new root is grown, it can be separated from the mother plant and transplant in spring and autumn.

Culture method of Pearl Plum

Pearl plum has strong adaptability and does not have high requirements for fertilizer. except for a small amount of base fertilizer for newly planted plants, it does not need rotating fertilizer, but it needs watering. Generally, it is watered 2-3 times during the period from leaf bud germination to flowering, and the Beginning of Autumn is watered 2 or 3 times from post-frost to frost, including 1 times of anti-freezing water, watering in summer depending on drought, and no need to water when it rains a lot. After the flower fade, the inflorescence is withered and yellow, which affects the appearance, so the residual inflorescence should be cut off to make the plant clean and tidy, and avoid the residual inflorescence competing with the plant for nutrients and water. Diseases and insect pests and old and weak branches should also be cut off after autumn or early spring, and annual branches can be strongly pruned to promote the renewal of branches and the flourishing of flowers and leaves.

① is not strict with soil, but it grows better and blossoms more luxuriantly when cultivated in deep and fertile sandy soil.

② does not have high requirements for fertilization. When it is just cultivated, it needs to apply sufficient base fertilizer to meet its growth requirements, and generally no longer apply topdressing. In the future, combined with winter management, base fertilizer can be applied every 1-2 years.

③ should be watered in time when it is dry in spring, thoroughly watered in summer and autumn to keep the soil from drought, and should be watered once before winter.

④ should prune the residual flower branches, disease and insect branches and old and weak branches in time after flowering, so as to keep the plant type neat, avoid nutrient consumption, and promote its robust growth and luxuriant flowers and leaves.

How to raise bonsai of pearl plum

The maintenance of pearl plum bonsai is mainly in the details of temperature, watering, basin soil and so on. The maintenance of bonsai pearl plum is not as extensive as ground planting. We should pay attention to whether the potted soil should be watered at any time, and at the same time regularly trim the branches and leaves. Only in this way can the benefits of pearl plum bonsai be shown.

I. Seedling raising methods

1. Cuttage

The cuttage propagation of Pearl Plum should be carried out after defoliation in autumn. The nursery bed can be selected to be sunny and leeward, turn it over deeply and scrape it finely. After making the nursery bed, fill the seedbed with 70 cm thick disinfected plain sand. When cutting, select the strong branches that grow in the same year, each section is about 12 ~ 15 cm long, and spray water after cutting.

Cover with plastic film to keep the substrate moist and the temperature of the seedling bed: Pearl plum has strong regeneration ability, high survival rate, rapid growth and development. It begins to germinate in the early spring of the following year, and pot planting can be carried out in autumn.

two。 Ramet

Pearl plum plants, generally cultivated for 3 years after 5 years, must be cut and planted, the time should be from September to October. When planting separately, dig up the pearl plum with soil mass, remove too much attached soil, and expose all the roots. Then, according to the gap between the roots of the plant, cut into several clusters with a sharp knife, smear sulfur powder on the incision, and then cut off too many stems, branches and long roots properly. And according to the needs of greening and beautification, single plant cultivation was carried out. After planting, pour the water thoroughly, and then irrigate once a week, generally 3 times in a row, Pearl Plum can survive.

2. Culture methods

1. Basin soil

Basin soil should choose good permeability, strong drainage performance, more fertile loam. Organic fertilizer was applied at the end of autumn and early winter, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer was applied before flowering. Usually appropriate amount of watering, keep the basin soil moist, do not be too wet for a long time, let alone waterlogging. Pot plants should be placed in direct sunlight as far as possible, winter low-temperature dormancy is its physiological needs, can not be put into the greenhouse, so as not to affect the growth and flowering of the next year, placed in the open air, leeward, sunny place or cover the basin soil to cover the winter. Prune every year after falling leaves to before sprouting in the second year, and cut off the weak ones in the diseased, dry and withered branches and overdense branches. Truncate too long branches, so that it maintains a good plant type, ventilation and light, in order to facilitate flowering.

two。 Temperature and light

Pearl plum culture because it likes the warm, humid and sunny environment. Adult plants can also tolerate cold and semi-shade. Autumn cutting seedlings, to the following summer, happens to be the tender shoot and tender leaf growth period, the grower should according to the position of the seedling bed, pay attention to shelter shading to avoid strong direct sunlight, so that it can have scattered light. Flowering and fruit-hanging plants should be exposed to sunlight to make their photosynthesis exuberant and promote the exuberant growth of plants.

The most suitable temperature for the growth of Pearl Plum is 18 ℃ ~ 32 tons. If the temperature is suitable, the light is sufficient, coupled with reasonable water and fertilizer management, Pearl Plum will be able to enter the luxuriant growth period, with pearly buds glowing on the crown. Pearl plum is hardy, and it is not necessary to take any cold prevention measures in winter, so it can survive the winter in the open field.

3. Fertilization

Pearl plum does not have high requirements for fertilization, just the cultivation of the need to apply sufficient base fertilizer, can meet its growth requirements, generally no longer apply topdressing. In the future, combined with winter management, base fertilizer can be applied every 1-2 years.

4. Pruning

The inflorescence of pearl plum blossom is withered and yellow, which affects its appearance, so the residual inflorescence should be cut off to make the plant clean and tidy, and avoid the residual inflorescence competing with the plant for nutrients and water. Diseases and insect pests and old and weak branches should also be cut off after autumn or early spring, and annual branches can be strongly pruned to promote the renewal of branches and the flourishing of flowers and leaves.

5. Watering

It should be watered in time when it is dry in spring and thoroughly when it is dry in summer and autumn in order to keep the soil from drought. It is also necessary to water antifreeze water once before winter.

Disease Control of Pearl Plum

After the plants grow up, the prevention and control of diseases and insect pests should be carried out in time, and early prevention and control should be achieved to promote the healthy growth of plants. The main diseases of Pearl Plum are: leaf spot disease, powdery mildew disease, brown spot disease, the main prevention insects are: beetle, spotted leaf wax cicada and so on.

1. Leaf spot

When the disease occurs, round or irregular brown spots will be produced on the leaves, and sparse brown mildew on the disease spots on the back of the leaves.

Prevention and control method: 50% topiramate 500 × 800 times diluent can be sprayed.

2. Powdery mildew

When the disease occurs, white or gray flour will be produced on the leaves, and when it is serious, the leaves will be slightly curled, and the leaves will fall off in the early stage. The flowers are small but not blooming, and the flowers are deformed and curled and dry.

Prevention and control methods:

(1) to remove the diseased and residual plants and reduce the source of bacteria in late autumn.

(2) pay attention to ventilation, reduce air humidity, strengthen light, increase application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and enhance resistance.

(3) after the onset of the disease, the injured part should be cut off in time, or the diseased plant should be removed and burned.

(4) spraying. Spray the same amount of 1% Bordeaux solution during dormancy, and spray 70% methyl topiramate 800 times or 50% Dysenamine 800 times 1000 times at the initial stage of the disease.

3. Brown spot

Pearl plum brown spot is mainly harmful leaves, at first scattered brown round to irregular disease spots on the leaf surface, the edge is dark, with a clear boundary with healthy tissue, and in the later stage, there are small mildew spots from dark brown to dark brown on the back of the leaves, that is, the pathogenic fungus fruiting body. The pathogen overwintered on the injured leaves as mycelia or conidia, and the conidia spread to the neighboring plants by wind and rain the following year, which was easy to occur when the trees were weak or poorly ventilated.

Prevention and cure method

(1) spraying 65% zinc wettable powder 600 times or 70% mancozeb wettable powder 500 times, 25% carbendazim 12% green copper EC 600 times from July to September.

(2) strengthen the management and improve the disease resistance.

(3) in late autumn and early winter, diseased leaves were collected and burned to reduce the source of bacteria in the following year.

4. Beetles

Small blue and white beetles bite leaves, buds and flowers, resulting in mutilated leaves.

Prevention and control methods:

(1) make use of the false death of adults to vibrate branches in the early morning or evening to kill.

(2) spraying 1000 times of omethoate or 1000 times of 50% marathon during the occurrence of adults.

(3) making use of the habit of adults entering the soil, 2.5% imidophos powder was sprinkled around the plant, and the topsoil was loosened after application, so that the adults were poisoned to death.

5. Spotted leafhopper

Adults and nymphs often gather on the back of tender leaves to suck sap, and the injured leaves have symptoms such as perforation, rupture, curl or thickening with different leaf age.

Prevention and control methods:

(1) in winter, dense branches and dead branches should be cut off and burned to reduce the source of insects.

(2) insect nets can be used to catch and kill adults during the peak period.

(3), nymphs and adults can be sprayed and killed with 1000 times of 90% trichlorfon or 1200 times of 40% dimethoate emulsion.