Conventional cultivation techniques of tulips (with control of tulip diseases and insect pests)

Tulip is a favorite flower variety for many flower lovers, and the huge market prospect also makes many flower growers plant tulips one after another. The editor will tell you about the conventional cultivation techniques and pest control of tulips.

Conventional cultivation: it is a cultivation method in which the tulip bulb is not supercooled.

1. Soil preparation

Choose leeward to the sun, loose soil planting, avoid sticky heavy soil. Before planting, turn the soil 35 ~ 40cm, disinfect the soil with 40% formaldehyde, and the pH value of the soil should be between 6.5 ~ 7.5.

2. Planting

It is usually planted in the first and middle of November. Water should be watered before planting to ensure that the soil is moist during the planting period, the planting depth is about 10 ~ 15cm, and the top bud is positioned upward.

Watering immediately after planting can not only reduce soil temperature but also increase soil moisture and promote the rooting of tulip bulb basal plate. Be sure to pour anti-freezing water for 1 time before entering winter, and generally do not need to be watered in winter.

The overwintering bulbs can produce full seedlings in the middle and late March. At this stage, the soil should be moist, and the soil should be loosened in time after each watering to avoid soil consolidation. Fertilizer topdressing should be carried out once when the seedlings come out to ensure adequate nutrients. Spray 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution once during bud appearance to promote the pedicel to be solid and the flower color to be bright. The flowering stage is about in the middle of April, and the flowering period is usually 6 ~ 7 days. The pedicel is cut off in time after flowering, and then topdressing is carried out once to promote the growth of the seed bulb.

3. Disease control

1. Basal rot disease

It mainly harms the bulbs and roots. After the damage, the leaves yellowed and wilted, and withered and died in severe cases. The root system of the damaged bulb is very few, the base is rotten, the damaged bulb is turbid white during storage, and the base rot becomes hard and wrinkled, sometimes in the shape of a wheel.

Prevention and control methods: digging bulbs should be carried out in dry weather and low soil moisture as far as possible. Within two days after digging, soak in 2000 times of 50% benzoate wettable powder for 15-30 minutes, then store it in a cool, ventilated place.

two。 Spot disease

It mainly harms leaves, flowers and bulbs. The damaged parts of leaves and flowers produce brown spots, the damaged parts of pedicels rot easily, the outer scales rot when the bulbs are damaged, and produce many black or dark brown sclerotia, and the whole tulip dwarfs and turns yellowish. When the seedlings were damaged, the growth of the plants bent and finally withered and died.

Control method: remove the damaged bulb before cultivation, soak the bulb in 2% formaldehyde solution for 30 minutes, wash it out, dry it and then plant it, and spray germicidal solution to prevent and cure the disease.

3. Broken color petal disease

It mainly harms leaves and petals. After the damage, the petal color of the same flower was different, the damaged leaves appeared lighter spots or stripes, the bulb degenerated and became smaller, and the whole plant grew poorly and malformed.

Control methods: select non-toxic plants as propagation materials, remove diseased plants and control aphids in time, and use them after heating and disinfection or washing when cutting flowers.

4. Stem rot

It mainly harms pedicels. It often occurs in double-petal varieties and is damaged by Phytophthora. Pedicels near or below leaf axils shrink, wither, droop and cause falling flowers.

Prevention and control method: plant the ball in a place with plenty of sunshine and good ventilation.

5. Rotten sclerotinia disease

It mainly harms seedlings and bulbs. After the seedlings were infected, the leaflets died as soon as they were pulled out. After the bulb was damaged, the outer scales had soft rot, and many white silk-like hyphae appeared on the diseased part and the surrounding soil surface, and then many rape seed sclerotia were formed.

Prevention and treatment: diseased plants were removed and burned in time, and Bordeaux solution was sprayed at the same time.

6. Mosaic disease

It mainly harms flowers and leaves. After the damage, the leaves have leaf-like markings, the petals give birth to dark spots, the growth is inhibited, and the bulbs do not grow big.

Control methods: select healthy bulbs and control aphids in time.

7. Penicilliosis

Mainly harmful to bulbs. After the bulb is damaged, there is a green mildew layer, and in severe cases, the inner scales also show the same symptoms, forming brown sunken spots and gradually rotting, and finally showing rotten wood.

Prevention and treatment: ensure air circulation during storage, sterilize with smoke agent regularly, and remove infected or injured bulbs as soon as possible.

8. Blind bud

Damage to the post-bud dehydration, petals remain green, leaf tips white, stamens and pistils curled.

Prevention and control methods: carry out complete cold treatment to avoid extreme high temperature in storage and transportation and too high relative humidity in greenhouse, incorrect watering will also lead to root asphyxiation, bulbs infected by mold should be removed from each batch of bulbs in time to improve ventilation conditions.

9. Cataplexy

After the disease, the upper part of the stem was dark green and flooded, and the bud end of the stem finally drooped. There are black water-immersed spots in the middle of the second or third leaf, and water droplets can be secreted in these areas, and in severe cases, water can be seen on the epidermis.

Control methods: cold treatment temperature should not be too low, keep the relative humidity of the greenhouse not too high, ensure the normal growth of roots, do not let plants grow too fast in high temperature.

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Methods of potted culture of tulips and control of diseases and insect pests

How to cultivate potted tulips? Many flower lovers like to raise a pot of tulips at home, which can not only decorate the home, but also be pleasing to the eye. Tulips are suitable for open field planting, and the soil capacity in flowerpots is limited, which often can not meet the needs of tulip growth, so when potted tulips are planted, variety selection, substrate preparation, planting methods and post-planting management are very important. Let's learn the techniques of potted tulips and the cultivation and management of diseases and insect pests.

1 methods of potted culture of tulips

1.1 Variety selection

There are many varieties of tulips, and the varieties of tulips are rich, and the varieties with low plants should be selected when potted. The plant is too high and the lodging resistance is weak. Choose the tulip bulb with bright color, large and full flowers, high quality bulb, full and fat, no trauma in appearance, hard and heavy texture in the handle of the bulb, no disease and insect pests, and the bulb is 10 ~ 12 cm.

1.2 use basin

There are many kinds of tulips to choose from, including plastic, porcelain, wood, earthen pots, flower pots as large as 1 ~ 2 m, and flowerpots as small as 10 ~ 15 cm, but the best material is plain-fired mud pots and plastic pots, with drainage holes at the bottom. When some flowerpots are displayed according to special needs, plastic color pots with similar shapes can be set for beauty, depending on the demand. Choosing the depth of the flowerpot is also very important, the root growth of the tulip directly affects the flowering quality of the tulip, because the flowerpot is too shallow, which is not conducive to the root growth of the tulip bulb, and the root growth is restricted, which seriously affects the absorption of nutrients and water by the roots in the soil, the plant is weak and slender, and the flowers are small, so the best depth of the flowerpot is 15 ~ 20 cm.

1.3 Pool soil

The peat soil or humus soil with good drainage and rich organic matter was selected as the cultivation substrate. Pastoral soil, peat and river sand were prepared according to 3 ∶ 2 ∶ 1, and the suitable pH values were 6.6 ~ 7. The seed balls were soaked in carbendazim for 20 ~ 30 min, then rinsed with clean water, and the dried seed balls were planted in the flowerpot.

1.4 planting method and density

First lay a little stone at the bottom of the basin to facilitate drainage, and then load the prepared soil into the flowerpot. Before planting, in order to speed up the rooting of tulips, the brown epidermis around the root plate at the bottom of the bulb was removed, and then the bulb was placed. The number of bulbs was determined according to the size of the flowerpot, and the distance between bulbs was 2 ~ 3 cm. The end of the bulb is placed in the flowerpot, the tip of the bud is upward, and the top of the bulb is covered with 5 cm of pot soil.

2 cultivation and management

It is best to finish planting tulips in early October, which basically coincides with the planting time in the open field. Then put the flowerpots planting tulips into the outdoor open field, dig ditches in the open field according to the number and size of the flowerpots, put the flowerpots side by side into the ditches, the height of the ditches is the same as the top of the flowerpots, and backfill the soil around and the space between the pots. After planting tulips should be evenly watered once on the same day, the principle is "timely watering, appropriate watering", water should not be too much, too often, otherwise the pot soil is too wet and lead to seed ball rot. This period is the rooting stage of tulips, the quality of watering directly affects the growth of tulip roots, the substrate can not be too dry, it can be kept moist for a long time, and the amount of water also depends on the specific conditions. it depends on the growth and development of different periods in different weather. In early November, the basin is covered with grass to protect against the cold. In the spring of the second year, with the rise of temperature, the surface began to thaw, remove the cold grass curtain, in order to remove the backfill soil, take out the flowerpot, the time is about the first ten days of April. Move the flowerpot to a ventilated and bright place, high temperature or noon should be shaded, according to the weather cloudy and sunny temperature appropriate amount of watering, do not drought or waterlogging, always keep the pot soil moist, and control the right amount of moisture after flowering. During the growing period of tulips, thin foliar fertilizer is applied about once a week.

3. Pest control of tulips.

3.1 Penicillium

After the injured bulb is stored for a period of time, the scales of the bulbs will fade, and the scales will be covered with green fungi. Prevention and treatment: prevent the bulb from being damaged, keep the air circulation and circulation when storing the bulb, and prohibit the planting of infected or injured bulbs.

3.2 Root rot

Some of the roots rotted, the infected roots turned waxy, and the local soil around the roots turned brown. When the root rot is serious, it will cause the flower to wilt and produce flower fragments, which will be attached to the shorter plants.

Prevention and control methods: before planting, chloropicrin was used to disinfect the soil. The bulbs are disinfected with Lobilone to ensure the air permeability of the soil and avoid stagnant water. In the first two weeks after planting, the soil temperature should be kept below 10 ℃ and not more than 12 ℃.

3.3 Brown spot of bud

Orange-brown patches and stripes appear outside the buds, on which there are water droplets, as if gnawed. The symptoms do not develop further, and the plant usually blossoms normally, but the parietal lobe is damaged. Prevention and treatment methods: disinfect the infected soil, spray mancozeb and carbendazim, and disinfect the soil at the depth of 15 cm. The bulbs are disinfected with robilone and carbendan, and can not be planted with tomatoes, chrysanthemums and cereal crops.

3.4 Gray mold

The seed bulb is completely or partially soft, and a large number of black conidia are produced in the affected area. the plants are fragile after aboveground infection, and the seriously infected plants are very short or not developed at all. Control methods: enhance the permeability of the matrix, strengthen the disinfection of the soil, treat the bulbs with fungicides before planting, and check and remove the bulbs with growth obstacles in time after planting.

3.5 Fusarium

During storage, grayish-brown spots will appear on the infected bulbs, sometimes with concentric circles and obvious yellow edges. In a humid environment, susceptible bulbs are covered with white to pink fungi, have a special smell and release ethylene. When the seed ball shrinks and the seed ball is pinched with your hand, there will be a rattling sound inside. Prevention and treatment methods: lightly infected bulbs should be properly stored to ensure normal storage temperature and humidity, and susceptible bulbs in the field should be removed as soon as possible, otherwise ethylene will be released, resulting in gelatinous bud cracking, bud necrosis and flower blast. Bulbs must be disinfected before planting. When planting, the soil temperature should be lower than 10 ℃ and never exceed 13 ℃.

3.6 soft rot

Bulb rot into mud, the formation of white mucus, first from the leaf tip to light red, and then the whole leaf changed color and withered. Prevention and cure method: the bulb root is disinfected with chloramphenicol, and the other methods are the same root rot.

These are all the key points of tulip pot technology. Friends who want to plant tulip flower farmers at home should study hard.

How to control tulip diseases and insect pests

Tulip is vulnerable to Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, Botrytis cinerea, broken petal disease, rot, thrips, acaroid mites and so on during cultivation.

(1) Tulip rot Sclerotinia sclerotiorum. The disease harms the seedlings and bulbs of tulips. After the seedlings are infected, the leaflets die in a lifetime. When the bulb is damaged, soft rot occurs in the outer scales and sclerotia grow on the surface of the diseased part and its vicinity. The sclerotia is white at first and then brown, but the inside of the bulb is still good.

Prevention and treatment methods: when ① stores bulbs, remove injured or diseased bulbs, pay attention to indoor ventilation, and control the temperature at about 17-20 degrees. Soil disinfection was carried out before planting ②. ③ found that the plant was diseased and immediately pulled out the diseased plant. The rest of the plants were sprayed with 500 times of 80% Dysen zinc wettable powder.

(2) Tulip broken color virus. After the damage of tulips, the germination of bulbs decreased and the quality decreased. The flowers fade year by year, and the flowering period is delayed. When the flowers are damaged, light yellow or white stripes or irregular spots appear on the petals, resulting in broken flowers on red or purple varieties. Double flowers are more susceptible than single flowers. Leaves can also be damaged. When the leaves were damaged, there were lighter spots or stripes in the leaves, and some parts of the chlorophyll were transparent.

Control methods: if ① is found to be weakly degenerated or seriously diseased plants, it should be removed in time. ② in the epidemic area, can spray 40% omethoate EC 1000 times solution for control, in order to reduce the chance of aphid transmission, can also spray 2.5% rotenin 800,900 times solution for control.

(3) acaroid mite. Harming the bulb in the soil or during storage causes the bulb to rot, resulting in poor plant growth, yellowing and wilting of leaves.

Prevention and control method: 1000 times of ethyl acarol is sprayed on the bulb, which can be effectively prevented, or the killed bulb can be soaked in thin lime water for 10-15 minutes, then rinse clean, and the insect can also be effectively controlled. For the prevention and control of other diseases and insect pests mentioned above, you can refer to the corresponding pest control methods of flowers in this book.