Production method and maintenance key points of bonsai of ornamental grape

Grape is not only a common fruit in our life, but also one of people's favorite fruit tree bonsai. Grape bonsai is easy to manage, and the result is early. Generally, it can bear fruit in the second year after it is put on the pot. The fruit is colorful and different in shape, round and purple like agate, long and white like horse milk, small and red like cinnabar, exquisite, with the meaning of prosperous business.

1. Material selection

(1) Rose fragrance

The ear is conical and the weight per ear is 400-725g. The fruit is deep purplish red with strong rose aromas. When it matures in late September, the maintenance in the basin can be extended to around the end of October.

(2) Jufeng

The ear is conical, the fruit is oval, and the single grain weight is about 9g, purplish black. Sweet and delicious, with strawberry aroma, ripe in early September.

(3) late red

The ear is oval in shape and weighs about 800g, with a maximum of 2500g. The pericarp is purplish red, the pulp is hard and crisp, and the ripening period is very late. If properly managed, the hanging fruit can be extended to November without falling off.

(4) Jufeng rose

The weight of the ear is about 750g, the ear shape is neat, the fruit is purplish red, the size is uniform, the fruit brush is long, does not drop the grain, has the rich rose fragrance. Properly maintained in the basin, the fruit can be extended to frost without falling off.

(5) tetraploid rose scent

The secondary fruiting ability is strong, and the ear is about 1000g to 2500g. No size, sweet and sour palatable. It matures 10 days earlier than the scent of roses.

2. Bonsai modeling

The shape of grape bonsai can be divided into two types. One is the thinner young tree shaping with support, which is generally divided into scattered type, funnel type, spiral shape and fan shape. The other is a larger stump with older trees, thicker branches and independent growth, which can use cliff type, oblique dry type, straight dry type and other tree types.

(1) spread shape

The trunk leaves 60-100cm, the top leaves 3-5 fruit-bearing branches, and 6-10 fruit-bearing branches are produced, which droop naturally, giving people a sense of ease.

(2) sector

Leave 10cm in the trunk, leave only one new shoot in the upper part after sprouting, pick out the heart when it grows to 3-6 leaves, and then leave 1-2 leaves to pick the heart, so repeat the treatment, and so on, the branches and vines will be fan-shaped, and the ears will be evenly distributed on the shelf surface.

(3) Cliff shape

After the main vine grows out of the basin surface 15cm, it hangs down by 70%. Extend forward and downward, so that the fruiting mother branches are evenly distributed, and there is a sense of cliff dynamics after hanging the fruit.

3. Bonsai maintenance

(1) temperature and light

The temperature required for grape growth varies from population to population. In general, the optimum temperature during germination is about 10 ℃, and the optimum temperature for flowering, shoot growth and flower bud differentiation is 25-32 ℃. When it is lower than 14 ℃, it is not conducive to flowering and fruiting. The lowest temperature during berry ripening period is 28-32 ℃, and the optimum temperature for overwintering is-3-5 ℃. Grapes like light, should be placed in a sunny, well-ventilated place, and are not afraid of the sun in summer. Grapes have a certain degree of cold tolerance, in the northern areas of the land growers buried vines in the soil can survive the winter. At the beginning of winter, the potted plant should be moved into the low temperature room to survive the winter.

(2) watering

Grape leaves are large, grow fast and need more water. After the grapes are moved to the outside for pruning in spring, they should be watered a few days ago, so that there is liquid exudation at the distal end of the branch. The growth is exuberant from May to July, and it is watered thoroughly in the morning and "looking for water" in the evening, but there is no water in the basin. Keep the soil moist the rest of the time. Water less in winter.

(3) fertilization

Grape sprouting in spring needs more fertilizer, and rotten organic liquid fertilizer is applied once a week. 0. 3% urea was applied twice at an interval of about 10 days. During the young fruit growth period, except for the application of mature organic liquid fertilizer once in more than 10 days, 0. 2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate was applied every 15 days for a total of 2-3 times, which was beneficial to fruit growth.

The above are the bonsai production and maintenance methods of ornamental grapes arranged by Huinong net Xiaobian. Have you learned all these? If you want to know more about agricultural technology, please follow Huinong School!

Production skills and maintenance of bonsai of fruit trees

Fruit tree bonsai is the product of the combination of fruit tree cultivation technology and traditional bonsai art, which integrates flower appreciation, fruit viewing and scenery viewing, so that the morphological beauty and richness can be displayed at the same time. Spring flowers and branches are delicate and beautiful, summer is full of vitality, crisp fruits change from small to large, changing with each passing day, and the golden autumn fruits are colorful.

Production and maintenance management:

Choose a healthy fruit tree and leave a few strong branches. Cut off the smaller ones. Then use lead wire to shape it and make the appearance you want. in fact, it's as simple as that. Just pay attention to management in the future!

First, choose the best grafting time.

Bonsai grafting of fruit trees includes early spring grafting, summer grafting and autumn grafting. Grafting was carried out in early spring before bonsai sprouting, summer grafting after scion bud ripening, and autumn grafting at the end of summer and the beginning of autumn. For the grafting of improved bonsai varieties of fruit trees, except for grapes and other fruit trees that need to be grafted with twigs, bonsai must be grafted in summer, and generally fruit trees can be grafted in early spring; the buds of fruit trees with early maturity, that is, fruit trees with multiple branching characteristics in a year can be grafted in autumn, but we should pay attention to the overwintering and cold prevention of young branches. In general, the bonsai of fruit trees is improved by grafting in early spring, which is more beneficial to the growth of young branches and the formation of tree crown.

2. Pruning and leaving rootstock

Pruning and leaving stock refers to cutting the bonsai of fruit trees that need to be grafted, removing most of the original branches of the bonsai, leaving branches suitable for grafting (also known as rootstock), and cutting them into short trees of appropriate length. You should pay attention to the following points in the operation:

1. To reduce the wound, the upper or distal branches should be cut off as far as possible, the lower branches and the branches near the main cadres should be retained as rootstocks, and the wounds directly on the trunk and anvil should be reduced, and the peeling and cracking of anvil should be prevented at the same time.

2. Pay attention to the orientation so that you can stay because of the tree and because of the environmental conditions. At the same time, it should be easy to operate. If the orientation of the main branch is not ideal, lateral branches or strong auxiliary branches can be used instead of remaining rootstock. In short, it is necessary to lower the height and shrink the crown.

3. According to the original shape and age of the tree, the number and length of the remaining stalk should be kept. For the taller tree shape, it is advisable to keep the first and second layers of the main branch and the retracted main rod from the bottom to the top. The length of the lower part should be long, the end of the cut should be 50 cm away from the trunk, and the upper part should be short, 25 cm away from the trunk. The age of the tree is less than 5 years old, there are 5 trees left and the trees are about 10 years old. The trailing fruit trees have 1 / 2 rootstocks for each main vine. If the original crown is large, there should be more trees, and if the original crown is small, there should be less.

III. Variety selection and scion collection

The main results are as follows: 1. variety selection, bonsai grafting and improvement of fruit trees should choose varieties that are suitable for local climatic conditions, have a good market, and have strong affinity with bonsai grafts that need to be improved, and achieve different mature periods, different flavors and different colors. Reasonable collocation of different fruit types and varieties of fresh food, storage and processing.

2. When collecting scions, one-year-old branches with strong disease-free insects, full buds and upright upward growth should be selected. Grafting in early spring can make full use of terminal buds for branch grafting, and flower buds should be removed. During the improvement of grafting in summer and autumn, attention should be paid to the ripening degree of buds in scion collection. The color of the branches deepened and the leaves were dark green and hypertrophic, which indicated that the axillary buds matured better.

Four grafting methods

1. Split grafting method is suitable for grafting rootstock with a diameter of less than 3 cm in early spring and grape grafting in summer. The split length of the anvil is 3m / m 5cm. The "wedge" cut from the insert part of the scion is 2mm long, which requires it to be straight and smooth, and the two slopes are equal or slightly different. When inserting, the cortex on one side of the scion should be aligned with the cortex of the anvil, the insertion depth of the scion should be aligned with the cutting edge of the anvil, and there were 3 buds left in the scion. After the connection, the binding should be tight, it can be wrapped with plastic belt and then fastened with string, or the main parts can be fixed and then coated with wax.

2. There are two methods of skin grafting: branch grafting and single bud grafting. Among them, the grafting "wedge" cutting method is the same as the split grafting method, the difference is that the "wedge" is short and steep, the longer slope is about 2 cm, and the short slope is 1 cm. When inserted, the longer obliquely facing the xylem of the anvil. The method of cutting a single bud is as follows: cut obliquely upward at 1 cm under the bud, cut to the top of the bud together with the xylem, and then cut a knife across the top of the bud to remove the single bud. The general opening method of skin grafting rootstock is "t" shape opening. There are also "one-point-one-horizontal" opening of the rootstock, and the method of making a vertical cut at the end of the cutting end of the rootstock. After insertion and binding with the splitting method, single bud grafting should expose the bud eye.

3. Summer skin grafting method the cutting method of summer skin grafting bud is the same as that of single bud grafting. After the bud is cut off, the bud should be removed and the xylem should be removed. When uncovering the bud, it is necessary to prevent "heartache". For peach, pear, apple tree grafting, sprout can be grafted with xylem. The opening of the rootstock with leather grafting method has "h" shape, "t" shape and so on. When grafting, we should pay attention to ensure that the combination of bud slices and rootstocks is smooth and tight, so as to prevent bud slices from curling. The binding method is the same as single bud insertion. In addition, skin grafting and sentinel grafting can also be adopted in summer.

4. Cutting care with the order of grafting, the cutting mouth of rootstock and the upper end of grafting should be closed with plastic belt or coated with wax. In case of drought, lime water can be used to whiten the main stem and big branch to protect tree moisture and improve the success rate of grafting improvement.

V. Management after grafting

1. Timely check the survival rate of 15 murmurs 25 days after grafting in early spring, 7 days after summer grafting, and 10 days after autumn grafting. The blackening or browning of scions or buds indicates that the grafting is not successful. If the survival rate is too low, it can be reconnected in time.

2. Apply enough fertilizer and water enough to accelerate the grafting growth of fruit trees after bonsai grafting, the apparent tree size should be 25 kg of farm manure and 2.5 kg of diammonium phosphate. Adopt ring-shaped or star-shaped fertilizer application method, trench depth 20 Mel 40 cm, can be combined with root shearing to remove part of the aging lateral roots. After fertilization, pour enough water to keep the root plate moist. Fertilization can also be carried out in advance, that is, grafting improvement in spring was fertilized in autumn last year, and summer grafting was applied in early spring.

3. Strengthen the care of bonsai young branches of fruit trees to prevent the grafting of fruit trees from breaking in the strong wind. When the grafting begins to grow, you should loosen the bandage slightly, but not completely. When the young branches grow to 10 cm long, take some sticks or crop straws, half of which are fixed on the trunk or main branches, half enclose the young branches, and wrap them around with string to protect the young branches. After the young branch is fixed and secure, take a knife to cut off the binding material during the grafting in order to facilitate its growth.

4. Get rid of the sprouting of the rootstock in time and reduce the competition for nutrients of the grafting, but the fruit trees facing supplementary grafting should be treated differently: one is that the grafting was not successful in the previous season and the next season should be regrafted, the rootstock should be allowed to sprout and grow; the other is that the grafting is not successful in summer, and the supplementary grafting has too much influence on the root system of the fruit tree, so the regrafting should be abandoned and the rootstock should be allowed to sprout and grow.

5. Grafting pruning can promote the germination and growth of secondary branches when the graft is "topped" at an appropriate height, and the dense growing and competitive branches are treated by the methods of taking branches and traction to fill the void, and the methods of short cutting and thinning and pruning are not used or rarely used.

Pruning techniques of bonsai of fruit trees

Bonsai pruning of fruit trees should grasp the principles of "five looks" and "three sparse and three dense". "five look". Look at the age size: for young trees, in order to increase the number of branches and leaves, expand the crown and form a good structure as soon as possible, winter pruning should be carried out from November to December. For the prosperous trees of suitable age, the winter pruning time can be postponed to sprouting in early spring. For the weak trees in the full fruit period, in order to promote their vegetative growth and quickly restore the strong tree potential, the task of winter pruning should be completed before the end of December.

In order to weaken the tree potential and form more flower buds, the tree can be cut in winter from January to February. According to the strength of the tree, it is necessary to grasp the pruning degree from the whole and the part, and maintain the balance of the tree potential as a whole. The crown is complete and compact, the master and slave are distinct, the plane is dense, the upper backbone branches are obviously shorter than the lower backbone branches, the subordinate branches make way for the dominant branches, and the growth potential of the backbone branches in the same layer is approximately the same. As long as it can achieve the goal of firm, compact, ventilated and transparent early fruit and high yield of early fruit, it can be arranged and dredged according to its original tree shape and tree potential, and must not put too much emphasis on shaping, especially for young trees, which often lead to premature fruit.

Look at what the branches look like:

Bonsai of strong and weak fruit trees on ①: the upper strong branch is cut back, the weak head is replaced, and even the upper strong part is sawed off, and the lower weak branch is heavily truncated from the full bud at the base of the main branch.

Bonsai of fruit trees with inconsistent growth potential of the main branches at the base of ②: the strong main branches are cut together, and the thin main branches are truncated from the plump buds at the top.

Bonsai of fruit trees without side branches and inner bore branches of ③: choose the best upright branches to be pulled to a reasonable position with rope, too dense thinning.

Bonsai of fruit trees without tree shape in ④: sawing off some obviously superfluous branches, opening the distance between layers, selecting backbone branches for key cultivation, long-term planning, using "pull, support, press" and other means to make the tree structure as reasonable as possible. If there are few or no flower buds, more throwing, more thinning, and less cutting should be done.

Look at the pruning response:

If the one-year-old branches on the 3-year-old branches are large and stout, the buds are full, the growth length is significantly smaller than that of the extended branches, and there are some foliage branches, indicating that the amount of pruning in the previous years is suitable and can continue to be used in the same year. If the length of the 1-year-old branch on the 3-year-old branch is similar to or more than that of the extended branch, it indicates that the pruning amount in the previous years is too large, so it should be cut lightly in the same year. If there are no medium and short branches on the 3-year-old branches, but only some clumps of leaves with very small leaves, it shows that the pruning amount in previous years is too light, so that it should be heavily pruned in the same year; look at the number of flower buds: it is necessary to work up and down locally to make a suitable proportion of flower buds and leaf buds, generally 1 ∶ 2 to 3.

"three sparse and three dense" are: big branches are sparse, branchlets are dense; outer branches are sparse, inner chamber branches are dense; upper branches are sparse, lower branches are dense.

"one big and one small" means: the lower part is big and the upper part is small.

Treatment of branches and twigs of bonsai of fruit trees. Results the branch group should be retracted, rejuvenated and renewed in time in order to maintain the robust result potential. For other branches, a new branch group is formed after processing. Strong trees and branches should be released more slowly and cut less, and then retract after weakening. For the branches that have overgrown, they should be rejuvenated in time and cultivated into fruiting branches. For the upper branches of the back, not all should be removed, but also should be used according to the situation. The young trees are strong, and the upper branches on the back are easy to grow, which can be controlled by the methods of picking the heart, pulling branches and taking branches in the summer pruning, and become useless into useful; the tree potential in the peak period has been stable, and the upper branches on the back are not easy to grow, and the choice can be made according to the space and position; for the old trees after the full fruit period, the branches on the back should be fully utilized in order to renew the tree potential and prolong the fruiting life.

The method of thinning the branches of bonsai fruit trees:

First of all, you can't go small or big. That is to say, when thinning branches, we should first consider removing the big branches, and then consider removing the twigs, so as to prevent the phenomenon of "light stick" of the whole plant.

Second, trees with too many branches can not be thinned too much at one time, but can be removed year by year, not more than two at a time.

Third, do not remove two opposite branches at the same time, causing mouth-to-mouth injury, so as not to weaken the upper tree potential.

The fourth wound should be disinfected and protected. It can be disinfected with 2% copper sulfate solution or stone-sulfur mixture, and coated with paraffin wax or antirust paint to prevent the invasion of bacteria and evaporation of water in the tree.

Disinfect trimming tools. Tools often come into contact with scars because of carelessness, so it is necessary to disinfect them with Baume 3-5 degree stone sulfur mixture or 50 times Fumei arsenic solution in time to prevent the spread of bacteria.

On the maintenance of bonsai of fruit trees

Fruit tree bonsai is easy to learn, as long as you follow the following methods, you can learn how to take care of it, and make it blossom year after year, bear fruit year after year, and the beautiful landscape will accompany you for decades.

Technical points for the maintenance of bonsai of fruit trees

1. Watering: the bonsai of fruit trees need more water, and the basin soil should be "dry and wet", that is, when the basin soil is dry and white, it will be watered thoroughly, if it is not watered in time or not for a few days, so that the root system will be in a state of lack of water for too long. It will make the leaves wilt or even dry. If it is irrigated for a long time without waiting for the basin soil to dry for a long time, the interval between each watering is too short, the pores of the basin soil are filled with water, and a lot of air is discharged, thus affecting root respiration. It will make it difficult for the root system to grow, and even turn brown and rot. The watering time in summer and autumn should avoid the high temperature at noon, and when the weather is cold, the watering time should be at noon on a sunny day. Fruit trees are not too strict on water quality, and it is better to use clean fresh water without salt and alkali. It can also be irrigated with washing water for rice or water from fish farming.

two。 Topdressing: fruit bonsai has strong adaptability to fertilizers, general organic fertilizer, inorganic fertilizer and flower fertilizer sold by florists can make fertilizer, but the rotten organic liquid fertilizer is the best, and the commonly used cake fertilizer with sesame sauce residue and animal hoof horns, it is necessary to pay attention to soaking and ripening, dilution more than 50 times, inorganic fertilizer should be mixed with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other elements, first dissolved in water, basin soil irrigation or foliar spraying. However, when the concentration is less than 5 ‰, the flower fertilizer sold in the florist is clean and hygienic, with many brands, and can be used according to its instructions. Organic liquid fertilizer should be applied 1-2 times a month in the growing season, so that the bonsai fruit can be big and gorgeous and keep growing vigorously in the second year.

3. Lighting: fruit bonsai is fond of light, and should be placed in the open field or balcony during the growing period. during the viewing period, such as indoor, it is best to put it in a ventilated place such as spacious halls and windows. July-August is the peak period of flower bud differentiation of fruit trees of most tree species, during this period, sufficient light is conducive to flower bud formation.

Second, the management characteristics of various tree species:

1. Apple bonsai (pear, begonia, sand fruit can refer to apple)

1) pruning: winter pruning should be carried out from January to February (before germination). First of all, it is necessary to recognize the flower buds. Most of the flower buds of apples are born at the top of the sturdy medium and short branches. The buds are enlarged, the scales are wrapped tightly, the vegetative branches are often stout and long, and the definition and lateral buds are all leaf buds, which are too dense or too long to affect the tree type, which can be cut flat from the base. If there is space around, 1-2cm is left to cut flat, and the short branches germinate in the same year to form flower buds. The B girl in the apple (a small fruit variety of the apple) and the east red fruit in the begonia can form a string of axillary flower buds, and the upper buds in the robust branches are often axillary flower buds. For axillary flower bud pruning, more than 1x2 of the flower amount should be cut off to make it dense and the tree shape is satisfactory.

2) Summer pruning: coring, pulling branches, and coring 4 leaves (long branches at the base of fruit stalk) from May to July to reduce nutrient competition, which is beneficial to fruit development and should be picked 1-2 times for erect new shoots. For erect perennial or current year-old branches, pull into a flat oblique shape, the larger the horizontal angle, the more conducive to flower formation.

3) pollination: the self-pollination rate of apples and pears is low, and the cross-pollination rate of cross-pollination is high, that is, the same tree species and different varieties (for example: red Fuji in yellow banana, snow pear and Yali pear) pollinate each other, and artificial pollination can be carried out at the flowering stage. When the flowers bloom, use a clean brush to pollinate different varieties of flowers from 8 to 10:00 in the morning. If there is only a single variety, you can contact this base. Or ask for dried fresh flower powder from the franchised store set up by the base before flowering.

4) Flower and fruit thinning and concentrated nutrient supply can lay a good foundation for fruit. for multi-flowered trees, 5-6 inflorescences can bloom per inflorescence, leaving 2 flowers at the pre-flowering bud stage, and the rest will fall off after flowering and poor pollination. The remaining young fruits will gradually expand, and some young fruits will fall off due to nutrient competition, which is a normal phenomenon until the first ten days of June. Then the fruit can be determined, according to the crown diameter, such as about 40 cm crown diameter fruit tree, leave about 10 fruits, each inflorescence 1 fruit, B female, sand fruit, begonia and other small fruit trees, 40 cm leave about 25 fruits, each inflorescence about 3 fruits.

two。 Hawthorn bonsai: Hawthorn has self-flowering and fruiting without artificial pollination. Hawthorn inflorescences are planted on 1-3 bud positions at the top of branches. When pruning in winter, the branches are not thinned, but only need to be cut short to keep the tree shape compact. When Qiangwang erect is slightly longer 20cm in May, leave 4-6 pieces of coring, early rather than late, and spray 3/100000 urea at flowering stage to improve fruit setting.

3. Peach bonsai (plum, apricot can refer to peach): peach can be divided into two types: flower viewing, fruit viewing, peach viewing, gorgeous petals, multiple petals, unhanging fruit or small fruit that can not be eaten, peach blossom light, single petal, ornamental and edible. This base is all ornamental fruit trees. Peach has a large number of flowers, and a large number of lateral buds grow in strings. When cutting in winter, cut off 1-2-1-3, cut off the over-long and strong branches, select 3-5 branches under the crown, remove flower buds, and prepare them for next year's reserve branches to bear fruit, and the upper branches will be cut off to make the tree compact. Peach has self-flowering and fruiting, if pollinated with different varieties of peach, the fruit setting rate will be higher.

4. Grape bonsai

1) pruning: grape pruning should be carried out after defoliation, and it is appropriate between mid-October and early November. Most of the basal buds in annual strong branches are flower buds, leaving 4 buds cut, depending on their strength, relatively weak branches, 2-3 buds can be left to be cut, and grapes must be cut in winter, otherwise flower buds cannot germinate or nutrients cannot be centrally supplied to flower buds, they will not bear good fruit. First, there is no reasonable pruning or no pruning; second, the nutrient supply is insufficient and the plant is too weak. Courtyard grapes are basically the same.

2) wiping buds: it can be carried out after the buds germinate in spring, resulting in the weak buds in the double buds or three buds sprouting on the mother branches, that is, one strong bud per node, and the rest erased.

3) coring: the nutrients of vegetative growth can be turned to reproductive growth by coring, which is beneficial to the concentrated supply of nutrients to the fruit. Generally, 4 leaves are left above the inflorescence before flowering, and the tendrils can continue to germinate after coring. The tendrils should be removed as soon as possible to avoid wasting nutrients.

4) ear thinning: only one ear can be retained for each fruiting branch, and the excess should be thinned out as soon as possible, and a part of the flower ear should be pinched off before flowering so that its nutrients can be supplied centrally, so as to lay the foundation for good fruit.

5. Persimmon bonsai: self-flowering and fruiting, persimmon often has 1-2 strong and developed branches in that year, which can be cut short when cut in winter to keep the tree shape compact. Persimmon flower buds are born in the middle of persimmon crown and 1-3 lateral buds at the top of strong branches. After fruiting branches grow in spring, the big fruit type varieties leave one fruit per branch, and the small fruit type leaves 2-3 fruits per branch, and the rest should be thinned early.

Third, change the bonsai of fruit trees

The change of the basin can be carried out every 3 years, and the original basin or slightly larger basin can be used. after the fruit trees grow in the basin for decades, a thick root pad will be formed close to the bottom and wall of the basin, and the net root pad will be removed when changing the basin, so that the distance of the root conveying nutrients to the tree body will be shortened. If you pour the pot during the growth period, you can not hurt the root too much, and the whole block can be placed in the new basin.

Fourth, fruit bonsai overwintering: generally, the characteristics are blooming in spring, growing fruit in summer, ripening in autumn, late ripening varieties such as apple, pear and persimmon. After autumn ripening, the fruit can grow on the tree until about February of the following year: if it is placed indoors during winter and Spring Festival, it should be noted that the ambient temperature should not be too high, apple, pear, Hawthorn can resist-20 ℃ low temperature will not be frozen. It is best to create it to survive the winter in the environment of-10 ℃-10 ℃, and-5 ℃-10 ℃ for peach, grape, persimmon, jujube, etc. If you spend the winter outdoors, you can wrap the basin with newspapers and plastic bags, place it in the leeward and sunny place, and check the dry and wet soil once a month. Fifth, fruit tree bonsai diseases and insect pests: because the bonsai cultivation base has strict control over fruit tree diseases and insect pests, after they are dispersed to urban users, there is no contagion around them, so the possibility of occurrence of diseases and insect pests is very small, if it occurs, water spray with detergent can be used.

Key points for the maintenance of tortoise-backed bamboo bonsai

Tortoise back bamboo is a shade-tolerant plant, avoid strong light exposure, generally after leaving the house in early May, placed under the grape shed or under the big tree near the riverside, scattered sunlight should be seen before 9: 00 in the morning and after 6: 00 in the afternoon. The leaves of Phyllostachys pubescens have obvious phototaxis, and when placed, the leaves must be made to face the sun so as not to distort the whole plant. At the end of October, the pot plant was moved indoors and placed in a place where it was not exposed to strong light at noon and received enough light every day. Indoor overwintering can not be less than 10 minutes c. The leaves are always kept clean to facilitate photosynthesis and make the plants beautiful. The tortoise back bamboo likes to be moist. The stagnant water in the basin soil will rot the roots, make the plants stop growing, the leaves droop, lose their luster, and the leaves are convex and uneven. Watering should grasp the principle that it would rather be wet than dry, always keep wet, but do not accumulate water.

It is watered every two or three days in Spring and Autumn. It is watered from 2 pm to 4 pm every day in summer. The amount of watering depends on the dry and wet condition of the basin soil, and it is generally appropriate to pour enough. The amount of water should be reduced in winter, watering every 7 days or so. Tortoise back bamboo fear of dry air, during the growth period, spray water to the ground and leaves several times a day to increase the humidity of the air around the plant. In summer, do not spray directly with overheated river water at noon in the hot sun, so as not to burn leaves.

The fertilizer requirement of tortoise back bamboo is greater than that of common flowers. in addition to applying sufficient basin bottom fertilizer (fertilizer accounts for 1/3 of the soil), during the growing period of tortoise back bamboo from May to October, mature sauce residue, horseshoe, bean cake and fish water mixed with dilute liquid fertilizer were applied every 10 days. Thin fertilizer should be applied frequently, combined with watering, and 5% dilute liquid fertilizer should be applied every two or three days. The leaves of Phyllostachys pubescens are relatively large, so they should be strapped when they are first planted, withdraw after they are fixed, and keep a certain distance from the objects around them, so that the large leaves can develop without hindrance. When indoor maintenance and viewing, it is necessary to maintain ventilation to prevent the formation of insect insects in leaves.